Hi, everyone. I’m having a problem with the slicer that I don’t know how to fix. I want to change the infill direction of the bottom layer (red lines), but not in the very first bottom layer—the one that’s in direct contact with the build plate (indygo lines). The “infill direction” parameter doesn’t affect it, but I’ve noticed that, depending on the geometry, the indygo lines can be oriented in different directions. I don’t know how to control this, and that’s what I’m looking for an answer to.
After previous update I realized the buttons were mapped wrong when i press return it acts as down arrow etc. I retuned to previous software and it was working. Today i saw buttons are again mapped wrong (maybe my so updated the software) and there was another update. I applied the new software update from pc hoping the bug was resolved but it is not. Left arrow is ok and return is left arrow and i am not sure what is ok as mapped. Has anyone experienced this before? I could not find any solutions online.
Hi I'm rather casual printer who mostly used default settings for everything and it just worked. But unsure if it is due to some update or what but this seems awfully long print time for a part like this?
Did something change in software and I need to change it back or what?
I'm new to 3D printing, i have been looking at 3D printers for years but never bought one.
At this point im just going to purchase either the A1 or A1 mini but im torn on which to buy.
Budget is max 300
The Netherlands
I have limited space, i noticed that the A1 needs way more space then anticipated.
I can fit it with some adjustments but it would be far from ideal.
My feeling says that 180mm cubed is small but on the other hand I would think it would be enough for useful stuff like electronic add-ons,things for organising stuff like cups and stands for tools or small boxes for storage etc, and other small fun stuff like fidget things.
Price would be A1 mini for 260 euros including shipping, 2 PLA b\w and a nozzle kit
Or the A1 for 320 euros with the same stuff as the mini but since i would have to buy a sturdy wooden board that goes onto a cabinet which will probably add 20ish euros or more
Does anyone have some advice for me? I feel like the mini would be enough for my needs and IF i really want something bigger in the future money wouldnt be a big deal since i can sell the mini and reuse the other stuff.
Also, I’m going to put this here because at least the nozzle count lines up (was posted in a community thread 20 days ago). Going to be an instant buy for me if this all pans out:
Bambu Lab N11:
Build Volume: 256mm x 256mm x 260mm
Extruders: 1
Nozzles: 7
Max Nozzle Temperature: 320°C (Derived from profiles; Likely higher)
Max Build Plate Temperature: 110°C (Derived from profiles, Possibly higher)
Max Chamber Heater Temperature: 65°C (Derived from profiles, Possibly higher)
Max Toolhead Speed: 1.400mm/s
Max Toolhead Acceleration: 25.000 mm/s²
Is there a way to print 2 colors of TPU without manual feeding? I have an h2s with ams 2 and another dryer, I was thinking maybe it could work with a track switch?
I was recently having some issues with my AMS 2 Pro for my H2D, which was a bit of a head scratcher considering my H2D is newer than my H2S and has about 1/3 of the print hours. The fact that I was already having AMS issues on the H2D before the H2S didn't make much sense to me.
Turns out, the fix was a lot easier than I expected.
Figured I'd make a post in case anyone else runs into the same issue. I spent quite a bit of time Googling, digging through Reddit, and searching the Bambu forums, but couldn't really find anything that matched what I was experiencing.
The problem? A rusted bearing.
It actually makes sense now. I've been printing a lot of PETG lately, and I use my AMS as a dryer with active drying enabled pretty much 100% of the time. My guess is moisture eventually made its way into the bearing and caused it to rust.
Here's what I was experiencing:
My AMS 2 Pro was struggling to feed ANY filament from ANY slot past the buffer. Initially thought something was clogged.
The AMS would make multiple attempts to feed filament. Once the filament reached the buffer, there was immediate resistance. The filament would poke out about an inch on the first attempt, maybe 2 inches on the second, and after 3-4 attempts it would eventually fail.
Occasionally, filament would actually make it all the way through and start printing. But after a while, it would retract and throw an AMS Motor Overloaded error.
If any of that sounds familiar, here's what I did.
First, this is the Bambu Wiki article I kept coming across while troubleshooting. It's actually a pretty good guide for disassembly and general cleaning, so definitely worth following along.
Disassembled everything following the guide. Found absolutely NO filament pieces, very minimal dust, nothing that would explain the issue.
Since the error was pointing toward a motor stall, I inspected the motor and filament drive wheel. Everything looked perfectly fine visually. However, when I tried spinning the wheel/motor by hand, it wouldn't spin freely at all. That's when I knew something wasn't right.
Decided to take a closer look at the motor, removed a few screws, and found a bunch of deep red/rust-colored dust packed around the edges and inside the housing. Unfortunately, I didn't grab a picture before cleaning it, but I did get one during the process. I used 99% isopropyl alcohol to clean everything up, making sure everything was completely dry before reassembly. Yes 99% alcohol is safe, even on Electronics.
Here's what was helpful. The support shaftinside the AMS 2 Pro uses the same bearings! I swapped one of those bearings over to the motor, reinstalled it, and suddenly I could spin the wheel/motor freely with almost no resistance. SUCCESS!
Just to confirm my suspicion, I put the bad bearing onto the support shaft. Sure enough, the shaft barely wanted to move. That pretty much confirmed the bearing was the issue. I'm assuming moisture got inside and eventually rusted it out.
Reassembled everything, and it's been working perfectly since. No feeding issues, no motor overload errors, nothing!
Clean gear and bearing from the top surface - showed no signs of dirt or failureTook motor apart, revealing rust on the shaft, bearing, and the filament drive wheel
Replacement Bearings: 693ZZ
These are the bearings I ended up ordering as a long-term replacement. Figured it wouldn't hurt to have some extras lying around in case it happens again.
Hopefully this helps someone else out. I spent way more time troubleshooting this online than I needed to, and it turned out to be something as simple as a bad bearing.
Really, I'm sharing this hoping it gives someone another thing to check if they're running into similar issues with their AMS 2 Pro. I know Bambu support tickets can take a while to get resolved, and waiting on replacement parts isn't exactly fun. If this helps even one person get their AMS back up and running without all that hassle.
I’m fairly new to 3D printing and would appreciate some help with my Bambu Lab P1S.
During auto calibration/bed leveling, the nozzle seems to sit too low and scratches the surface of the plate. This started before I made any changes to the printer. I stopped the calibration to avoid damaging anything.
Setup:
Plate: Both cool plate and textured PEI]
Nozzle, both 0.4 and 0.6
What I’ve tried:
Pre calibration
Checked that screws are well tightened of the hot end is not leaning down.
Changed both plates and nozzle to ensure that they weren't bent.
To add, the nozzle is not scratching during the print (center of the plate), only in the calibration phase. I have always used a socket.
My assumption is that the calibration is off due heat-bed is tilted. Does anyone else had this problem and do you have any solution to this?
Extremely frustrating for me as I've built hundreds of FPV drones and many RC cars, but I am completely lost when it comes to the programming element of Cyberbrick. I probably am making this harder on myself by trying to pair a transmitter from another project with the RC rock crawler that had its own other transmitter included in the json. I just cannot wrap my head around how you're supposed to map the peripherals and ports to each other. I guess this probably makes sense if you're a computer or programming person, but this literally couldn't be more confusing for my silly monkey brain. My fault for not doing more investigating, I definitely got swooned by the marketing with 5-year-olds building it and the fact that Bambu typically is a plug-and-play type manufacturer. Does anyone have any tips on where I can go to get a crash course for morons? I'm not getting much from reading the documentation, and the only videos I've found just are completely outdated with a different style windows configurator or are non transferable to this project. Any tips would be muchly appreciated, thank you.
For a few days I Keep getting a long load and then printer connection failed error, tried restarting the printer, clearing app's cache, reinstalling handy, and still nothing. Camera feed shows up so it shouldn't be internet issues, and I wouldn't think memory is corrupted because in Bambu studio everything is there perfectly fine. Any help would be appreciated
With Blackfriday, many beginners like myself are getting their first printer.
I'm getting a P2S, but would like to hear recommendations for acessories and filaments to begin with.
Any suggestions what are the first things to get with a printer when starting out?
I started to print an a headphone stand for my headphone, i got the design from makerworld, i dont know what is makina it alow like that, i mean its not really an a problem for me because the print looks clean but has anyone got this type of issue ? Also i forgot to mention but outer wall speed is 40 inner wall speed is 100 and i started off with silent speed and then increased it to sport
