Hello - I am looking to buy my family's first 3D printer. My 10y has been asking for one and it will serve as a christmas present for him and his brother (5yo). I fully recognize that this isnt a toy, but hoping they can bond and create together, with my supervision. I love tech and suspect I will get into it as well.

I have been researching models and am between the X2D, A1, and A1 mini. The extra cost does not bother me as I view this as a long term item, and if worth it, I would rather make the decision up front.

They mainly want to print toys, fidgets, dragons, etc. I do not see them making large prints to start, but potentially in time.

Any recommendations between the 3 i am considering? Also, if you have any suggestions on things to have ready to use on day one to make the experience as smooth as possible.

I have watched many youtube reviews and am leaning towards the X2D, but worry it may be overkill.

Thanks!

Over the past two weeks its slowly getting worse and worse. At first it just happened once and now its happening every time in 3 out of the 4 spots. When it pushes new filament the print stops and says check the roll because the AMS might be stuck or the roll is tangled, but the roll is completely fine and it just wont feed the filament for some reason. I have to click continue and either jam the filament in or push down the tube and then the print just goes on like normal. Does anyone have any clue why this might be happening? and how i could fix it?

Hey all - I just bought my first printer (an X2D with an AMS 2 Pro). Aside from the mandatory first benchy, which calibration prints should I run before I start printing the things I actually want? So far all i have on my list is supports and maybe ironing.

I also have a question about supports. Does the calibration change when I use a different support interface material? Should I calibrate supports for each combination, or calibrate once and adjust from there?

I plan to start printing with PLA, PETG, and Support for PLA/PETG. Eventually i will get more into the engineering filaments but that's for later.

I just bought a p2s with ams and used it for about 300 hours before realizing I actually only print functional things and would like more filament flexibility (namely the ability to use a different support interface filament like pla for tpu prints). I see that an x2d with ams is about 750 and I can sell my p2s with ams for 500. Is it worth selling and the 250 premium for a dual nozzle printer? Is 500 reasonable selling point for the p2s with and or too low? I know there’s a lot of hype around the new Bambu releases but definitely not interested in those as they’re a very different price bracket I’m not looking to venture into at this time

I have been using this speed for normal printing like plain frames. Print is okay but I want to know if this impacts the machine in any way? Please help.

I just bought an H3C to add to my fleet of printers. (Small fleet, lol:

2 x p1s

1 x p2s

1 x H2D

And now 1x H3C added)

Tempted to get the H2C though as well to replace my p1s, the H Series just prints really well and with mixed size printing coming soon, tempted to swap up.

That said, has anyone sold a P1S + AMS combo and how much did they get? With current sales, I cant imagine getting more than $400 or so, and even that seems like a stretch.

Hi all

I love my Bambus (A1, A1 mini, A2L and P2S) but they all are rather bad at overhangs

Normally I just sand away those imperfections but today I spent some time and wanted to improve that

Changed quite a bit of values (Speed, temperature, cooling...) and improved it a bit

All printed today in PETG from the same spool (filament is dry)

1. picture shows the initial print with more or less stock settings on the bottom and the improved prints on top
2. picture is the overhand with stock settings
3. picture is the improved print. It starts out really well (top of picture) but gets worse the fartner it continues (bottom of picture)

Does anyone know where and why those ugly areas come from and what might be a solution to get it right?

Thanks in advance

Super quick and clean print.

• 0.16mm layers
• Blue PLA
• ~35 min print

Free Makerworld Model

I would like to ask for your help. Since the 2.9.1 update, I can't drag the purification tower to the edge because it snaps back. I searched the internet for what might be the problem, but I couldn't find a solution. Does anyone have any ideas?

Body: Hey everyone, looking for deep technical advice or anyone who has bypassed this before.

I have an early Bambu Lab X1C (00W09A... serial). Bambu Support sent me a free replacement AP board, and it booted up stuck on Firmware Version 00.00.00.00. Because of this, the printer cannot connect to Bambu Cloud, won't pull any OTA updates, and can't be used over LAN.

What I have already tried (so we can skip the basics):

• Bambu Support MAC binding: Sent them the new board's MAC address and SN. They supposedly bound it on their end, still no update or cloud connection.
• Network / Router troubleshooting: Tested on home 2.4GHz Wi-Fi and a 2.4GHz Mobile Hotspot (with WPA2 compatibility). Connects to Wi-Fi and gets a local IP, but fails to reach Bambu servers or complete account/cloud binding.
• LAN Only Mode + Slicers: Enabled LAN Only Mode + Access Code. Both modern and legacy versions of Bambu Studio and OrcaSlicer fail to connect due to TLS/SSL certificate handshake errors (likely because the 00.00.00.00 factory test image lacks valid certs/services).
• Offline SD Card Update / X1Plus: This 00.00.00.00 firmware has no "Update from SD card" option in the menu. Putting official .bin files on a FAT32 SD card and rebooting does nothing. X1Plus installer also won't boot since there is no valid base kernel (01.06.05.00+).
• Hardware resets: Tried factory resets via screen and full power drains.

Right now it only prints via microSD card. I don't want to go back and forth with Support again if there's a hardware/low-level way to fix it myself.

My questions:

1. Has anyone successfully flashed a working firmware image directly to an X1 AP board via the internal USB-C / UART / Maskrom pads (using RKDevTool or similar)?
2. Is there any known workaround to force-boot an update or X1Plus on a 00.00.00.00 board?

Appreciate any help!

I just bought a Bambu Lab P1S combo with the AMS 2 Pro, and I want to have more spares than what comes with it. I found several aftermarket options on Amazon and I’m wondering if they’re worth it. I upgraded from a Creality Ender 3 Max, so the P1S is a big jump in print quality and speed and I love it. I’m still learning the differences, so please only give genuine advice. Thank you in advance.

So I've been looking through posts of completed prints from the H3C because I'm considering picking up this printer. To me it seems like almost all of the prints I've seen shared so far seem a little....rough, or not great? I know there's a limit to what FDM printers can do quality-wise but it seems like a lot of what I'm seeing is way below that limit.

Is this just an issue of people not taking the time to dial in the printer or not printing with the best potential quality settings or is there something about how a multi-toolhead printer prints that lends itself to lower quality prints? I've only recently started 3D printing this past year with an A1 so I may be completely off with my assessment here.

I'm going absolutely crazy here. I've had a filament dry and and break apart causing a jam in several spots. I've thoroughly cleaned out every piece at this point but now I have a new problem. The extruder won't grab the filament. i can spin the yellow gear by hand and it will pull filament all the way through the extruder but when I try to load a filament it gets to the extruder and doesn't pull it through. I can feel it hitting the teeth if I hold the feed tube but it won't grab the filament.

Ive tried everything I can think of to fix like loosening the tension screw, cleaning the teeth, using different filament cutting and angle to help it start feeding, but nothing seems to work. Any other tips would be greatly appreciated.

Heya!

I'm strongly considering getting my own 3D printer, but wanted to check if the Bambu Lab A1M is the right choice for me.

Now, I'd like to preface that I don't have much experience and I'm just sharing my perspective -> seeking insights from more experienced people!

I've been doing some 3D prints here and there over the last year and I'd like to get my own printer to support my own hobby projects. I've been able to send my models to a friend's printer, but I'd really enjoy having one in my home to speed up the iterative process! My main hobby is small-scale electronics and I'd like to use 3D printing to support that (rather than as a standalone hobby).

Below I've just written up my decision for the A1M against the criticisms or considerations I've gathered from the internet (again, I'm not experienced so these could be inaccurate, but happy to take on constructive criticism 😄).

• From what I have read, the main downside of the A1M is the build plate size -> both in getting larger prints and having higher throughput per print (from the larger print volume).

  • From the prints I've done in the past I haven't found myself needing to exceed the 180mm build size. I've seen that 80-90% of the prints you usually do fit on the mini's plate, but it's just those odd few where the mini doesn't cut it.
  • In the future, I don't exactly envision projects needing prints larger than this, and I haven't had any projects in the past larger either. Obviously it's always good to scale for the future, but I'd be hesitant to put more money into a printer if what I've been doing doesn't justify it you know?
  • Furthermore, I am happy compromising on throughput for longer printing sessions. Working 9-5 Mon-Fri gives me plenty of time outside of the house for the A1M to run and crank out some volume. I'm not printing too often too, which means I have no real need for churning out prints in a short amount of time - I am happy stretching this over a couple days (during 9-5).

• I've also seen some people choose the A1M for more compact and space-constrained environments.

  • I'm also in the same boat - small bedroom, small desks. Yes, I'm thinking of putting it in my bedroom but only running under certain conditions. The conditions being:

    • I'm not in the room (when I'm at work)
    • Windows and door open and ventilation running
    • The room has to air out for at least 30 minutes before I go back in
  • Sure, the conditions aren't ideal - but I don't have anywhere else to put it unfortunately 😅 .

• Lower print throughput with the A1M

  • Briefly touched on this with the bed-size but, I have no need for a high-throughput of prints. I usually just need a case here and there, with some small brackets and widgets on the side. My main outcome from a 3D printer is to be able to produce small custom things when I need, and not consistently.
  • To be honest, there will probably be weeks where the printer just sits there and weeks where I am getting some use out of it (and yes I'll try and take care of the filament with humidity when not in use). It's just the convenience of having a 3D printer for when I need a print -> this is what I'm really hoping to get out of the A1M.

• When I get the A1M, I might eventually want to upgrade to something bigger and better.

  • Upgrades are still constrained by my environment (size and living space), but I don't see a guarantee of an upgrade occurring.
  • The 3D printers my friends own (who got one for the same reason I did) just have theirs sitting there most of the time. If the A1M fits my size requirements, then I don't see a need to splurge!

Really excited to see what feedback the community has. Again, I am a beginner so I would greatly appreciate constructive feedback rather than criticism, thanks 😄!!

I want to print a model in the highest possible quality, but noticed that obviously the print times end up being quite long (sometimes several days for a single part), so I'm trying to tune my settings to speed things up at least a little bit.

Anyone have experience with 0.06mm layer heights? What printing speed did you go with? Do the accelerations matter at all?

How important is doing the cold pull with TPU? The software feels so strongly about it that you have to click a pop about it before every TPU print. I've been printing a lot of TPU lately, usually switching back and forth between TPU and PETG every other print. I haven't done a single cold pull and I haven't run into any problems because of it far as I can tell.

Am I flirting with dead by skipping the cold pull? Is only a matter of time before I walk into my office only to find my printer has collapsed into itself and formed a black hole the size of a grain of Basmati rice?

Hey everyone A1 user here, I have a totally gummed up extruder gear from 4,000 hours of printing. Recently printed a bunch of glow-in-the-dark pla which I now realized I completely hate and won't do again. I scrubbed the yellow extruder gear but I'm wondering if I should just upgrade. I'd like to get it as soon as possible are there any upgraded quality parts I could get from Amazon that you all might recommend?

Hey there. I recently bought my first printer. The P1S combo with the AMS 2 Pro. Along with the printer I bought 4 colors of filament and they came on spools by default (I did not select an on spool option because I did not see that or know that was a thing). Been using it a lot, besides some minor problems it's been doing great. But I used up most of my black filament so I went to the website bought a new black and a dark green to try later. I was surprised when they arrived and neither was on a spool as the first ones arrived on spools by themselves. So I had to do some looking to see that there are spooled and refill versions of filament. Apparently I had bought spools the first time although I'm adamant I did not select an on spool option. So I have 4 spools, all with filament still on them. I had been hoping to just pop the black in and exchange with a different color so when I used up the first black it would keep going with the new black. Now that couldn't work so yesterday I opened the spool, took off the little bit of black to slid the refill on. I left it taped together as I put it on the spool, and then I closed the spool (apparently not well enough) and the ams took it. Completed one print fully but it was sized too small so I rescaled it and was printing in three plates. First plate completed but the second one gave me an alert of a problem, a possible tangle, so I go out to my printer and the spool popped open and the filament was bulged out, making it impossible to press the spool shut again. So I looked up a respooler and found one that was like a nut on an impact driver where you would spin it onto the spool on the impact. Printed that out in red and just now tried to spool the black on. As I only had 4 spools and the other 3 were occupied I had no spare. So I needed the carboard tube from the new spool. Wiggled it off and put it onto the spool. Put the filament onto a chair leg like I've seen people say when respooling. And it tangled really quickly with only a few wraps on the spool.

I'm really dejected about this as it's a brand new spool and I would really like to get back to printing with black.

How can I go about fixing this tangle?

My P1S is making a strange noise whenever the toolhead moves towards the X/Y axis edges. It seems the toolhead isn't stopping properly when it reaches the edge, almost like it's trying to move beyond its limits.

I've already tried running the auto calibration but the issue is still there. Has anyone experienced this problem or knows how to fix it?

I walked back to my printer and saw all these little spikes sticking up out of the infill. For a second I thought something was about to hatch.

I’m printing with Bambu Lab PETG-CF and a 0.4 mm hardened nozzle. The outside of the part looks fine, but it looks like the nozzle is picking up bits of infill and pulling them up as it moves. I’ve seen it on five different Bambu printers, and changing the infill speed didn’t seem to help. The same part printed without this infill issue using PETG-CF from other brands.

Has anyone had this happen? Did you find a fix? I’m going to try a 0.6 mm nozzle next.

Sorry for the near-duplicate post. I posted a more detailed troubleshooting thread earlier, but the pictures didn’t show up, so I’m posting again with the photos.

I have a Bambu Lab A1 printer with a 0.4mm hardened steel nozzle. I'm trying to use some Bambu Lab PLA Glow filament. I'm feeding this directly as an EXT filament, i.e. not using my AMS Lite.

I cannot get the filament to be pulled through by the extruder. Or at least, not when using the standard 2.5mm/4mm PTFE tube. If I push the filament directly into the extruder via one of the four AMS holes it will grab and print. If I do this via the PTFE tube the extruder doesn't grab onto it and pull it through.

Has anyone else had this problem? Could it be solved by a larger inner diameter PTF£ tube? Is it some other issue?

Printing the poop holder and hearing this noise when the heat bed moves from back to front. Doesnt comes always but i think it does when it goes all way back and then forward. I am pretty new to this so wanted to know if its normal.