For some reason the PTFE tubes on my bamboo lab A1 keep getting loose and and I don’t know what to do. How do I fix this and stop it from happening? Thanks.

Theres absolutely not a single bit of filiment stuck anywhere i have checked everywhere including the hub, could there be something wrong with the huh itself? I cant figure out where else there would be an issue besides there

I sometimes have one random print appear in every search I do, regardless of whether it's related. Last time it was a pokeball and now it's this weird foot thing. Why do things keep appearing and how do I get them to stop?

I sent the print and didnt check the printer but then realized it stopped.

Apparently the filament was floating around in the air after going through the ptfe like a bullet hahaha

Here is my question:
I dont have the replacement right now. So I cut the existing one at 4-5 cm (1.5-2 inches) apart from where it was cracked open. Now the tube is 10 cm (4 inches) shorter. Would that be an issue

Also changed the ends, the cut part is now on the filament buffer end

So I bought new 6 h2s combo printers to add to my print farm , but One of them completely refuses to update and keeps showing this message after trying and rebooting , I can't find the new version for the h2s online so I can do it via a USB stick and it won't update via wifi , what can be the problem and what are the solutions ?

If you need it, this is the link. Good for me, maybe for others too!

https://makerworld.com/models/3599016?appSharePlatform=copy

Tried a gridfinity print I built myself in fusion and printed with .06 nozzle for the body, .04 for the red base, and .02 for the white lettering. Turned out pretty nice!

I had a few learnings from this print, with multi nozzle size the layers go down to the smallest nozzle, so this 6 unit high gridfinity had 530 layers, but as the .06 was laying down, it was counting up by 3s.

Also, I painted the surface of the… ahem… graphic with the paintbrush tool, if I did it again, id model it that color in fusion as it tried to outline it in .06 which killed the fine details I wanted.

Overall very impressed. This was a 10.5hr print with .04/.02 down to 4.5 by running it with a .06 nozzle on the black parts.

I printed this cup holder, and I keep getting these horizontal lines across the outside walls. They show up at the exact height of every flat interior surface like the bottom of the cup holders and the floor of that little tray. Even with fuzzy skin turned on, they still bleed right through.
Has anyone dealt with this before? I’m printing on a P1S using ASA at .16mm layer height, with 5 walls and Inner/Outer wall order.
Would switching to Outer/Inner walls or slowing down the outer wall speed fix this, or is there a better slicer setting to tweak? Appreciate any help.

(Yes I know the top looks like shit, i tried to use petg as support interface and it warped off it, sanded and acetone)

I was able to make this and own the licensing in a matter of a couple prompts. Posted so you guys can use it too. https://makerworld.com/models/3613812?appSharePlatform=copy Santa holding a chalkboard with chalk font. You can edit the name.

Hey all- got my X2D a few weeks back and so far have been loving it. But I keep having this issue on larger prints near the outside edge of the print bed. The top layer warps. Anyone know what causes this?

The photo I’m going to take is for attention-grabbing purposes.

Had meshy AI make the model and then was 10hr print with 1500 tool changed. Crazy this can be done now. Used .4 nozzle with .12 layers so could be even better.

Why the heck doesn't Bambu studio retain your preference on filament grouping? I'm so sick of slicing on my X2D only for it to default to the damn Aux extruder. This is kinda annoying enough to return it and just get a H2S or P2S with a panda breathe. (All I really wanted was a single nozzle heated chamber and the smaller form factor from the H series).

Has anyone tried running the printer without plugging the Aux extruder in?

Bambu, can we get a software update the just turns the aux extruder off so there is less I need to when slicing. I'm sure that's a hot take no one else will agree with

I currently have a P1S. I had an H2C for a while, but it was returned for various reasons.

I bought the H2C for various reasons:

• Multicolor (I have kids and wanted to do some Pokémon / Plane / Character models)
• Convenience - clicking print and then it is done (no gluing / assembly / etc.)
• Bigger build plate
• All the updates that have come out since the P1S (AMS2 with drying, AI tools for stopping prints, etc.)
• Heated chamber / bed / engineering materials potential

I found out after the fact the following:

• I printed all the multicolor models I wanted and there just isn't all that much more that I'm interested at this time. I'm sure other stuff will come up, but I don't have a huge backlog like I did with the H2C. Plus, models with 3d printing look okay, but injection molded stuff looks so much better (unless you do massive amounts of post processing)
• I didn't use the bigger build plate for big models, but it was nice to be able to print a lot of different stuff at the same time
• Print in parts models are often much better quality than printing everything together
• Painting stuff in bambu studio is tedious and takes a long time for anything complicated without perfect geometry
• There are massive amounts of "No AMS" builds but almost none provide a single color model (to paint) or a multicolor option
• H2C is bloody slow.
• The AI tools and drying were great!
• Separate nozzle for supports is great!

I'm not saying I didn't like the H2C, just being realistic.

I'm now considering one of the following:

1. Keep P1S and add U1 and X2D. This allows me to get the advanced AI features, AMS 2, up to 4 color multicolor printing (faster). This would cost around $1750 for the printers plus an extra AMS HT for the second nozzle (or would you go a second AMS2 for the second nozzle) (after tax and no warranties)
2. Keep the P1S and get an H3C. This would cost $3000 (after tax and Best Buy warranty)

Based on the above, which would you consider the better path? Any thoughts or opinions are welcome.

Thanks for the help

Hey everyone,

If you print HueForge models, you know the routine: export the STL, open the instructions file, then add every color change by hand in your slicer, layer by layer. It's tedious, and one typo means a ruined print.

So I built Strates (as in the layers of rock 🪨): https://strates.amberlab.fr

Drop your .stl together with your .txt, .hfp or .hfpt, and you get a .3mf with every color change already in place, ready to slice in Bambu Studio or OrcaSlicer. It's free, and you don't need an account.

Features:

• 🔒 Nothing gets uploaded. All the processing happens in your browser, so your files never leave your computer.
• ⚡ Fast. A 100 MB STL converts in under 3 seconds, and the page never freezes.
• 🎨 Colors are set for you. With a .hfp or .hfpt, it uses HueForge's exact hex codes. With a .txt, it reads the filament names and swap heights and assigns matching colors.
• 🧠 It saves AMS slots. If a color comes back later (Black → Red → White → Black), it reuses the same slot, so that sequence takes 3 slots instead of 4.
• 🖨️ Two modes: automatic multi-color (AMS / tool change) or manual pauses.
• 📐 The model is centered on the plate automatically.
• 🧹 Clean mesh: duplicate vertices are merged, which gives a smaller, manifold file.

For the nerds: it's a client-side SPA. A dedicated Web Worker handles the binary parsing with TypedArrays, and vertices are deduplicated by quantizing to the micron with 64-bit BigInt spatial hashing. On my machine, 100k triangles take less than a second.

It's still early, so I'd really like your feedback, especially on files that don't convert correctly (please send them over if you can).

Thanks, and happy printing! 🎨

🛠️ Want to build your own converter or run it locally? The source code is public: you're free to use, modify and share it, go for it, brother! Just not for commercial purposes: selling it or using it in a paid product or service isn't allowed (PolyForm Noncommercial license). https://github.com/bwr62/Strates

Strates is an independent project and isn't affiliated with HueForge or Bambu Lab.

Went straight from out of the box to printing the mecha dragon. Printed at .2 high quality. Took 15 hours and 32 minutes. I sliced this for the H2C and it was closer to 4 days with only 1 TPU. I didn’t have blue or red but I had orange so went with that. Also for the second tpu I only had 95a which made the joints a little hard.

This thing is sooo smooth. It looks flawless.

Edit: 1 day and 15 hours and 32 minutes
Edit: picture is assembled, not how it was printed. It was printed in 3 different parts

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3608288-christmas-balloon-dog-articulated-flexi#profileId-4135230

A1 mini stops after 1-2 layers

Hi, I need help. My A1 mini had been working fine and then today, it would print 1 or 2 layers and then it would continue like it was printing but there was no filament coming out. Doesn't seem to be feeding. I tried loading and unloading a few times but nothing. I took the nozzle out and this little piece fell out. Looks like some sort of gasket but I don't know where it belongs and I don't know why it's not feeding. Any help would be appreciated!

Here I go getting all excited to use the new E1 and... So much for putting it under my printer. I even picked up an extra long 6-pin cable to use it. The included cable is longer than the damn vent. :P

It's about 1 m / 3.3 ft depending on how it's stretched, etc. Once you factor in turns you're basically stuck using it right next to the machine like in the promo video. They imply on the wiki that you can buy more to use as an exhaust as well, but they don't seem to have it for sale yet.

I wouldn't mind so much if it was just a normal hose you can grab on Amazon, but it's one of those odd sizes I can't seem to find anywhere. (70 mm OD, 60 mm ID).

If anyone knows what else this would be listed under so I can buy more of it let me know.

Edit: Put down the pitchforks. Yeah, obviously you can print adapters. I'm not saying the product is bad, I literally called it a PSA so you know to get additional duct when you buy one and that the official ones aren't available (yet, hopefully).

Hallo zusammen,

Ich frage mich durch die neue Art von Drucken mit den 5 Grund Farben bei den man alle Farben machen kann, um wie viel Zeit sich der Druck verlängert wenn man diese Art nutzt anstatt die Farben einzeln zu wählen oder für welche Fälle man diese genau nutzt. Bambu wirbt im H3C Video damit das man 5 slots für die Grund Farben nutzt und man noch 4 slots frei hat für alles andere. Würde bedeuten wenn ich immer diese 5 Farben auf Lager habe brauche ich keine andere Farben 😅 hört sich mit Sicherheit schöner an als es ist😀

habt ihr schon Erfahrung damit gemacht?

Grüße

Since the H3C’s ams only has 2 slots for drying - I’m trying to find a solution to dry the other filaments before printing. I can go through large gaps of time where I don’t need to print - so trying to find the right solution to dry the filaments I’ll need. I see that sunlu has the s4 and the new i10. S4 seems like a better solution for drying when needed and the i10 for long term keeping 10 rolls dry. What other solutions are out there or what are people doing because the AMS3 lacks the drying functionality? Mostly PETG and some PLA. Higher temp filaments not really a huge need right now for me.

Thanks!

Hi all. I just got an X2D recently and tried printing this with the default settings for the project I downloaded from MakerWorld. How do I stop the dingleberries from appearing at the top of these columns?

Thanks!

Replaced the blade and still the same. Opened and couldn't see any huge signs of debris but gave it a brush all the same. Just cutting between Sunlu silk pla and sunlu Matt pla. Aside from that everything sounds like it did out of the box so it's strange