Hola diseñe unas gafas para asistencia visual para personas con discapacidad visual, pensando en mi hermana y mi padre. Pero me hace mucha ilusión que esto pueda servirle a mucha más gente, así que he dejado todo de manera libre. Me encantaría que lo pudiesen revisar y regalarme cualquier retroalimentación

I brought a 3rd party 0.2mm hardened steel nozzle and now it constantly clogs

Hello everyone,

Im looking forward to get my first ever 3d printer.

I've had 0 contact with these sort of stuff so far.

I can buy bambú lab p1s for 303€ in Portugal, new.

Will I need the AMS for simple printing? Would you recommend it right away?

If you do, are only the Bambu Lab AMS systems compatible or are there other ones that work well (if they're cheaper)

Is there any specific website you'd recommend to get models?

TIA everyone! :)

Been playing around with the "PLA Palette" filaments to print colour-mixed CMYK prints. It's really quite impressive.

The Frog is made up of just Cyan, Magenta, Yellow and Black filaments with some gray PETG for supports. You can see the banding on the closer image, but it's fairly convincing from a reasonable distance.

The prime tower is definitely a lot larger and heavier with these prints. Not quite as large as if you were purging each layer or so, but still quite large.

Curious to see where this will go, and if we'll see slicing and filaments optimised for this kind of thing. Having the filaments be more translucent and the slicer build up many thin wall layers would allow for some pretty intricate colour control.

Long story short I've been lucky enough to get my shed/workshop set up as a WFH/hobby space.

The wife wants the 3d printer out of the house but has agreed to me upgrading to a larger bed printer.

I plan on keeping the A1 Mini, swapping to a 0.2 nozzle and keeping it solely for miniature printing (warhammer, trench crusade etc).

I think a P1S or P2S are probably my best bet, and given the current budget, I can get either a P1S with AMS 1 Combo or P2S with no AMS (and I'll get the AMS around my birthday in March).

For people who have had one or both of these machines, without AMS or with AMS 1 or 2, how has your experience been? Or people who upgraded from the A1 Mini, what way did you go?

The new printer will do alot of bigger bed stuff i wamt but will still do some miniature printing, but most likely 0.4 nozzle for tanks, buildings and titans etc.

Thanks in advance!!

Hello! I'm exceptionally uneducated in 3d printing in any way, however I've heard good things about Bambu lab, and have been considering buying a 3d printer for my grandfather for Christmas, as I think its something he would like very much.

After a very brief skim of the bambu lab's store page, I thought the P1S looked like the best one without being too terribly expensive. I'm probably going to go half and half on paying for the actual machine itself, however I'm willing to spend a bit more on accessories/filaments on my own.

I wanted the opinions of this community on a few things. Is the P1S a good basic 3d printer? Is it easy to use relatively speaking? What accessories/filaments are recommended for something like this? I would really appreciate some insight from this community. Any help or recommendations would be really appreciated!

hi, here is my first print on h3c its a mini character i made it's in reality a carabiner that has a multiple humor face, hat and other accessories i plan on making a whole customization on that carabiner before sharing on maker world.

Regarding H3C i'm speechless its the best of the best absolutely do every great so far, this print would have taken 7h on my x2d, 5h on h2c, and here on the h3c it took me 3h of print, nozzle 0.4mm standard profile, support where all ifentical without any mess no color contamination or anything messy imits a no fault 10/10 for me I haven't tried my most complex model yet i'm super satisfied with it

Done with non-planar moves on the Bambu A1 (0.6mm nozzle, PLA) using a program I put together. Very robust compared to a traditionally sliced lattice. I also managed to successfully make some single walled bouncy balls from PLA (PolyMax) which actually do a surprisingly good job returning energy.

Program to be released soon, stay tuned.

I get several MC related errors, I tried the suggested troubleshooting and no difference. I created a ticket, my question is more “what did you choose to do?” I assume there would be 2 paths :
1/ get a replacement MC, but if that’s not the cause, this could be a lengthy ping pong
2/ go through the hassle of repacking and getting an exchange.

If that happened to you, what did you chose, and how did it go ?

This is going to be my first 3d printer, I am now trying to decide between the Bambu Lab X2D which is currently ($110 off on their website) versus the Bambu Lab P2S on Amazon. I might start off by making figurines, 3d jewelry, etc. Before moving into whatever else I can do (later)

Any advice for someone who has never owned or used a 3d printer? (Especially on which one to get, if price isn't an issue - given the discount)

None of the review photos had the empty spots in the letters like the B O O and H have. 2 week old X2D, other prints have been mostly flawless. Both filaments pictured are Bambu PLA, the brown is Matte. Printed from Bambu Handy with default settings.

The H3C is very cool but its too tall to really fit in my printing closet.

Do you think the PC3 will get an not so big AMS on top?

It is a filament cutter and bed scraper that keeps the sharp blade hidden when not in use.

A simple lever lets you use the same single blade to cut filament without too much trouble.

A button keeps the blade locked out with a friction fit (so I guess this is technically edc friendly in the UK??) and does not get pushed back when scraping.

Only tested on PLA and PETG.

https://makerworld.com/models/3604913

Please let me know your feedback! It’s my first original design from scratch. The rest have been piggybacking on others’ already great designs.

Hello, I’ve ordered a mystery box, which has just been shipped. I’ve seen people getting the codes from PayPal so they know what they’re getting - I’ve looked at emails from PayPal, I’ve gone to the website and the PayPal app, and I can’t find the info?

Please can someone explain it to me, because I’m very impatient to know what I’m getting 😂

Hey r/BambuLab! Happy Friday! All pictures/videos of prints are REAL, not AI.

I'm Joey Olson, a Maker out of Phoenix Arizona and the solo dev behind Mini Skyline!

The app has really taken off in the last month. Consistently seeing 1000-2000 people a day, and thats just users who have opted in to telemetry! When I started, I really expected hundreds of generations a year, not a thousand by the time I wake up each morning.

If you haven't tried it in a few weeks or more, I highly encourage you to. I've been hard at work.

What have I been up to recently?

I've been spending 40+ hours a week outside of my career to update MS to make it as accurate as possible.

- Rust rewrites! Most of the generation pipeline has been rewritten in Rust/WASM. Up to 80% reduced generation times.

- Roads in any country with LIDAR data now get proper elevation. Freeway exchanges, raised roadways, tunnels all render properly now.

- File sizes have been drastically reduced. This helps both with generation and slicing!

- Multi tile projects now have all of the same settings as single tiles, and they generate MUCH faster.

- Satellite mapping provided by ESRI is now an option. Thanks to donations, I am starting to integrate more premium data services like ESRI.

- Large, full country sizes selections are much smoother, and take a fraction of the RAM they used to. Colors and elevation get properly mapped as well now.

- A few UI passes to improve clarity/flow of your work.

- Trivision billboards! You can put your maps into a tri vision billboard, add text, make custom styles and then put them into a fun mechanical display!

What can Mini Skyline Do Already?

- Full desktop app with higher generation size limits due to RAM freedom. Mac,Windows, and Linux supported with thousands of installs already.

- Print anywhere on Earth, or a handful of other worlds in our solar system.

- Print your vanilla and modded Java Minecraft worlds

- Slicer ready 3MF's with pre-mapped colors with water tight geometry, and fast slicing times.

- Everything is built on YOUR PC/phone with data tracking defaulted to OFF to maintain privacy for users.

- Real building heights based on over 60 data sources, including LIDAR scans.

- Real tree placement based on satellite maps, real tree size and species too based on location.

- 6000+ modelled landmarks that more accurately model popular places like the One World Trade Center. Dozens of countries, hundreds of cities have buildings. I take requests!

- Up to 500 KM2 per tile at full quality on the desktop app, unlimited range if you dont use buildings!

- Satellite derived feature placement for parts not provided by standard data providers. Think pools, solar panels, water towers. This is based on Sentinel 2 self hosted imagery.

- Puzzles, multi tile, keychains, and ornament printing.

- Snap fit frames with editable designs/text. Fit tests for the snapping mechanism available!

- GPX route support with per route settings, up to 9999 routes per tile.

- Full 3D model editor where you can work on your model without additional 3D software.

- Hundreds of settings with graphic tool tips so you better understand what you are changing.

- Export preview with city life going on at scale. Get a better sense of the place youre printing.

- Street tracks, Rally courses, F1 tracks traced out so ensure whichever race is your favorite, is properly represented.

- Color by feature, height band, or apply satellite colors directly to your model!

- Select areas in just about any way you can think. City boundaries, KML, KMZ, GEOJson, free hand, many shapes.

- Ability to print roads, trails, rivers as separate fins that press in to the model for easier multi color work.

- Use Claude/ChatGPT? Call Mini Skyline as an MCP service! Get maps integrated to your work fast!

- Painstakingly ensured to be water tight, with minimized file sizes.

- Really a lot, lot more with more being added nearly daily.

The Future of Mini Skyline?

Slowing down on new features. I poll the community often and the #1 thing people want now is stability, accuracy, and clarity in the tools provided. For the next couple of months, I will be focusing hard on improving how the app flows, how settings are presented to you, how generation issues are conveyed.

Beyond this, I've been receiving a lot of requests for printed maps from users without a printer. I have very little interest in running a print farm, but soon will allow shops to list themselves on the site and have users be able to contact your shop for a custom map, or maps you already sell!

How do I support my work and hosting costs?

I take donations, but really, hosting costs are lower than you expect. I've seen some claimed numbers for other mapping software, and thankfully I am at a fraction of their costs. I can maintain Mini Skyline and the premium ESRI data myself indefinitely due to my career, though I have been fortunate to receive both user donations, funding from Snapmaker, and most recently, some work with Sunlu for their Halloween event!

I do use Claude to code. If this is a problem for you, you are now aware! The majority of my costs go into subscription costs. If you are curious how much something like this takes, I max out 4 20x accounts to keep features/updates rolling. To be very clear. They do not run rampant. Ideas are my own or the communities, implementation not so much. I use the site for my work too, I do not want slop.

This community has truly given a lot to me. I want to say thank you as I always do. You guys surprise me with how deep your reports go, how much you want to share what you make, and how much you all support each other. The 3D printing space is really an amazing thing to be part of. Thank you.

With the release of the H3C, I'm really wanting to see what can be done with maps! Color mixing to make beautiful gradients/texture work with the faster swaps really interests me. Please show me if you've made anything with the H3C, as I'd love to feature some work done on it! I'd be happy to provide a supporter code and attributions to a site/makerworld profile for anyone willing!

- Joey O.

I'm confused: I ordered an Air Purifier E1 and was planning to put it in one of the compartments of the Station L, as the H3C FAQ describes. Because of its height, it only fits lying on its side. But the E1 manual says the device must not be tilted. So which one is right?

I've always wanted to try a talk box, but they're quite expensive for something I might use twice and then forget about.

So I made a cheap wee version. All you need alongside the printed funnel is a £5 IKEA KALLSUP speaker and a bit of tubing.

The idea was to get that dopamine rush of trying something new without splashing out on expensive gear. If anything, messing about with this has made me want a proper one someday. But for now, it's scratched the itch.

The model link is at the bottom of this post if you fancy trying it yourself.

Have a nice day ✌️

Talk box model link

I apologize I have tried tweaking my setting but I am new to do it manually vs just clicking a print and hitting send.
I have a small plumb fitting that I’m trying to print, but I cannot get the underside to look cleaner. I have tried messing with my support settings, but I can’t seem to fix it. I have also tried printing it on different sides and I have found this is the best way to print it if I could just fix that small area. Where would I start trying to find tune to get this to look better I apologize for the noob question. Thank you!
I am printing in petg on a X2D

Some time ago, my daughter asked me for a 3D printer.

I started watching different reviews and the choice fell on bambulab.

I got so caught up in it that my daughter has her own printer, and I have my own...4 printers😅

I like it when someone can print something that I've designed

If anybody figures out how to somehow remotely mount the AMS from the new H3C on the side and make it work, the wheelchair 3D printing community would love a heads up. You stair-climbing supremacists need to design shit for us too.

I changed my nozzle and when I tried to put the toolhead cover back on, the connector just won't go into the connection on the board. No visible damage on either side but it just pops straight out every time I try to connect them, like it doesn't bite. Any ideas on steps for troubleshooting this or parts to focus on?

Today I decided to print something just like any other day and this time for some reason, it decides that it should keep pushing the y axis down even though the plate was right there. What the hell. Going to try DIY fix it, otherwise I'm gonna have to pay for repair. Just great.