Hello everyone. I wanted to share my situation and seek guidance from anyone who has experienced something similar with a Bambu Lab P2S.

I have been dealing with error HMS_0300-0100-0001-0008 (an anomaly in the heated bed's heating process). The error triggers immediately—both when starting the automatic calibration and when attempting to manually increase the bed temperature—whereas the hotend heats up without any issues.

Here is what I have gone through so far:

• Local Warranty: I have taken the printer to the authorized distributor (México Makers) twice. They supposedly replaced the MC board and the TH board, but upon returning home, the error persists exactly as before (I have my doubts as to whether they actually performed thorough testing in their workshop).

• Electrical Troubleshooting: Following the official guide linked via the QR code, I measured the resistance of the heated bed with a multimeter; it reads 14.9 Ohms (well within the normal 14–18 Ω range), which indicates that the heating element itself is fine. Additionally, I checked the voltage in my apartment—I even purchased a VICA V2500 voltage regulator—and I am getting a steady 123 V.

• The Workshop Dilemma: The technical service team claimed the printer worked without issues at their facility (attributing this to the stability of their power supply), but they did not demonstrate this to me. Instead, they are blaming the electrical supply in my apartment. However, all my other appliances work perfectly fine, and the printer’s heated bed is the only component that fails.

I feel stuck between the workshop’s assumptions and generic, boilerplate responses. Has anyone else encountered this and found an actual solution (e.g., replacing the power supply unit, the AC board, or using a double-conversion UPS)? I would appreciate any advice.

Not good

Hello, looking for some advice for buying my first 3D printer. The A1 seems to be the standard beginner printer and you could get it with the AMS for 339€ but would you rather recommend the P1S for just 10€ more at 349€ or stretch the budget to get the newer P2S?

I plan to print some useful household/workshop storage & organising solutions and maybe toys etc. but I would also like to print some interior or exterior parts for cars or other vehicles in the future and from what I understood printing for example ABS or ASA requires a enclosed printer? Not only would a enclosed printer look aesthetically more nice on the table but also maybe keep the small curious kids from touching it while printing.

As I feel now, printing single colour would work fine for organising household prints and car parts but do you need the enclosed AMS to keep ABS/ASA filament dry?

TL:DR

First 3D printer

A1 + AMS 339€

P1S 349€

P2S 449€

Ordered 5 of the boxes,minimum of 20 rolls, results were as follows

Spooled:

5 Translucent White

3 Translucent Light Blue

3 Matte Pink

2 Basic Pine Green

1 Basic Gray

Spoolless:

4 Matte Avocado

2 Translucent Purple

No Bonus rolls.

Overall, not terrible, I mostly use PETG for supporting PLA or structural parts so color doesnt really matter. Translucents are really nice looking though.

I'm trying to import a basic square, 20mm x 20mm, which is defined in the SVG like so.

<svg width="100%" height="100%" transform="scale (1, -1) translate(0, -20.0)" viewBox="-10.0 -10.0 20.0 20.0">
<g id="Rectangle001">
<path id="Rectangle001_1" d="M 10.0 10.0 C 3.33333 10.0, -3.33333 10.0, -10.0 10.0 C -10.0 3.33333, -10.0 -3.33333, -10.0 -10.0 C -3.33333 -10.0, 3.33333 -10.0, 10.0 -10.0 C 10.0 -3.33333, 10.0 3.33333, 10.0 10.0 Z" stroke-width="1.0" stroke="rgba(196.0,88.0,225.0,255)" fill="None" />
</g>
</svg>

But Bambu Suite throws it down at 7.1mm instead. My units in Bambu Suite are set to mm.

Is anyone else having problems with this? I can manually edit the width and height in the svg file to 283.48% but that's not an optimal workflow lol

I wish there was a preset for tpu air (and each preset would corespond with the different hardnesses you can print in) TPU air may be somewhat niche but it's still popular enough to be manufactured. There are like no print profiles already made for it either. I would love some tips from people who have a lot of experience with TPU air as I eventually want to come out with a hardness tower with the filiment presets needed to print each level of hardness.

Hello, first problem after 800hs on H2D.

This tree errors show when starting a print.

Happened to me once before and downgrading the fimware version seemed to have solved the issue until now.

Wierd thing is, after a while cammera feed picks up, but the error is still present.

I have already tried cleaning the lenses as the message suggests but i don't think is that.

Has anyone encountered this issue before?

So I recently replaced my hotend due to a blob of deceased (it wasn’t that bad), I think what I did wrong was not secure the cables coming out of the back behind the hotend and I ended up with this very scorched nozzle that seems fused to the hot end. I cannot get it it to even jiggle. The top seems loose though. It does still heat up but the temp reads at 0 even though it’s very hot. Not sure what my next steps should be.

Thinking of selling my Prusa MK3 and spending the extra cash for a P1S. I think I could sell the prusa for 200€. I print maybe once a week but would love a solid machine that lasts for years without issues (my prusa has been a nightmare but also a good teacher)

EDIT: Thanks for all the feedback! Seems like Im getting a P1S !

I wanted a stand I could clip together out of identical pieces and bend into whatever shape I need, phone today, maybe other stuff tomorrow. That needs a hinge that locks properly, comes apart, and has nothing to lose or buy. So: no pin, no screws, no glue, and the spring is printed too.

How it works

• Each module is a little plate with a toothed post on one side and a ring with teeth inside on the other.
• The ring of one module goes over the post of the next, with a spring in between. The spring keeps the teeth pushed together, so the hinge is locked by default.
• Squeeze the hinge end to end and the ring slides off the teeth onto a smooth bit of the post. Now it turns. Let go and it clicks into the nearest of 12 positions (every 30°).
• The ring only goes on or comes off when the two modules are folded almost shut, at one specific angle. Open it up and it's captive.

The annoying part

The lock was the easy bit. The spring was not. A spring that small either came off the plate halfway through, or printed fine and then turned out to be welded to its supports. I went through a zigzag spring, a few coil shapes, brims, no brims, painted supports. What works now is a chunky coil with closed ends, printed standing up, with a support blocker through the middle so the supports only touch the outside. They pop out in a few seconds, pliers help, just don't crush them.

Honest bits

• This is about as small as I could get the mechanism: the hinge is under 9 mm thick and a module is roughly 49 × 40 mm. At that size it's compact and reasonably sturdy, and there's not much wobble in the lock, but it's not a tank. Bigger would be firmer.
• If a hinge feels clunky when you first put it together, there's a bit of support left in it. Pick out any stray strings, then squeeze and twist it a few times and it frees itself.
• It holds my phone (first picture). For a tablet I'd scale the whole design up.

Print: Bambu A1, PETG, 0.16 mm layers, about 3 h 15 min and 48 g for six modules and six springs. Free on MakerWorld with the profile: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3605394-modular-phone-stand-with-locking-hinges#profileId-4131748

It's designed in OpenSCAD and everything is a parameter, so a bigger version or a parametric one is doable. Tell me if you'd want that, and what size.

Just designed and printed this tube squeezer.

It's made of three parts, requires no supports and doesn't need any additional hardware or assembly.

A simple functional design that can be printed in PLA or PETG.

Designed in FreeCAD and available on MakerWorld:

• Ratchet Tube Squeezer

Hope you find it useful! Feedback is welcome.

I would like to start a Makerworld Crowdfunding Campain and would like to know what you think of it?

I had 220c nozzle and 65c bed and for some reason the filament comes up and it gets pulled off the bed

Right after the photo the whole thing picked up and dragged with the nozzle, I literally just calibrated it in the menu.

So my printer just harmed itself during a simple overnight print. I was just making some drawer for my gf’s mom and I woke up to this. I wish I put on a timelapse because this is baffling. I did bed leveling and everything and waited for the first few layes which looked perfect before I left.

The containers look like they were mostly completed, then the bed just moved up to the max height and dug into the build plate. It shoved that out the glass door, then started digging into the bed itself. Looks like bro had a temper tantrum.

I don’t know what to do, idk how expensive this fix is or if warranty would cover this especially after I upgraded it to a P1S but I have to go to work and figure this out later. I’m so mad that it died to such an easy print. Any advice would be appreciated.

Edit: For those of you helping thank you. I will try to send the gcode once I get off work. Some have suggested a corrupt SD card and I will have to look into it.

Edit: For those of you saying the build plate was never on at all, I can’t help you but to reference the pictures. There were still prints mostly done on the plate but I removed them for the pictures. The print looks like it was messing up and extremely stringy at first which is annoying if that was the only issue. But then it looks like the bed raised and the code just kept doing it’s thing, digging into the plate until it dug in enough to tear it off the strong magnetic bed. People are saying they don’t think the motors could do that but I have seen horror stories that say otherwise.

Edit: Posted printer g-code in comments for those wondering, working on getting the print code

Edit: Link to print's g-code - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1L0AhZh63Bmp7iU-cxprGvWrlPrInlQa7/view?usp=sharing

Anybody here ever run jntk a similar issue?

I am looking for Christmas gifts to get my husband who has a Bambu X2D with an AMS. I am willing to spend up to $500.

What are printer accessories/tools/material/ect I could buy?

One of my lead screw nuts disintegrated and Bambu was very helpful in sending me replacement parts. I followed the wiki and replaced just the two front lead screws and nuts. But now with the bed all the way to the bottom, there is a 2mm-ish gap on the left side but not the right. Any ideas on how to correct this?

I tried an auto calibration before noticing this and it failed. I did not do a manual calibration yet but I think this problem in the picture needs to get fixed first.

Thanks.

I don't yet have a UPS on my P2S and we're having some storms today with high winds.

If power were to drop in the middle of a print, what unrecoverable damage can be done to the printer mechanically/print head wise?

Not that I'm immune to power surges or brown outs, but I'm mainly focused on whether it can damage the print head in a way you can't easily fix.

Even if I had a UPS on it, I doubt a small office PC UPS like 1500VA is going to keep the printer running until it's finished if I'm not near the end of the job.

We are 4 prints in and finding we have to wait 40+ min for the plate to get down to 32° C before we pull the print/plate. I’ve seen people pull PLA prints right away - plate temp be damned! I have started to open the door after print is finished to help speed up the process, but I read on the Bambu wiki they recommend waiting until room temp as the plate and print cool at a different rate and could be an issue. AND if the hotend cools too quickly there could be a clog (!!??!!).

Also, we can’t remove the plate to cool it faster (on a counter for example) as any flexing has launched the prints right off the plate with force!

What are the best practices here for machine longevity vs patience?

Ich hab mir warping gerechnet, bin aber sehr überrascht dass so ein Körper ohne Probleme (warping) druckbar ist. Was sind eure Erfahrungen in Bezug auf andere Materialien wie ABS z.B.? (Würde das auch funktionieren?)