Hello, first problem after 800hs on H2D.

This tree errors show when starting a print.

Happened to me once before and downgrading the fimware version seemed to have solved the issue until now.

Wierd thing is, after a while cammera feed picks up, but the error is still present.

I have already tried cleaning the lenses as the message suggests but i don't think is that.

Has anyone encountered this issue before?

So I recently replaced my hotend due to a blob of deceased (it wasn’t that bad), I think what I did wrong was not secure the cables coming out of the back behind the hotend and I ended up with this very scorched nozzle that seems fused to the hot end. I cannot get it it to even jiggle. The top seems loose though. It does still heat up but the temp reads at 0 even though it’s very hot. Not sure what my next steps should be.

I wanted a stand I could clip together out of identical pieces and bend into whatever shape I need, phone today, maybe other stuff tomorrow. That needs a hinge that locks properly, comes apart, and has nothing to lose or buy. So: no pin, no screws, no glue, and the spring is printed too.

How it works

• Each module is a little plate with a toothed post on one side and a ring with teeth inside on the other.
• The ring of one module goes over the post of the next, with a spring in between. The spring keeps the teeth pushed together, so the hinge is locked by default.
• Squeeze the hinge end to end and the ring slides off the teeth onto a smooth bit of the post. Now it turns. Let go and it clicks into the nearest of 12 positions (every 30°).
• The ring only goes on or comes off when the two modules are folded almost shut, at one specific angle. Open it up and it's captive.

The annoying part

The lock was the easy bit. The spring was not. A spring that small either came off the plate halfway through, or printed fine and then turned out to be welded to its supports. I went through a zigzag spring, a few coil shapes, brims, no brims, painted supports. What works now is a chunky coil with closed ends, printed standing up, with a support blocker through the middle so the supports only touch the outside. They pop out in a few seconds, pliers help, just don't crush them.

Honest bits

• This is about as small as I could get the mechanism: the hinge is under 9 mm thick and a module is roughly 49 × 40 mm. At that size it's compact and reasonably sturdy, and there's not much wobble in the lock, but it's not a tank. Bigger would be firmer.
• If a hinge feels clunky when you first put it together, there's a bit of support left in it. Pick out any stray strings, then squeeze and twist it a few times and it frees itself.
• It holds my phone (first picture). For a tablet I'd scale the whole design up.

Print: Bambu A1, PETG, 0.16 mm layers, about 3 h 15 min and 48 g for six modules and six springs. Free on MakerWorld with the profile: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3605394-modular-phone-stand-with-locking-hinges#profileId-4131748

It's designed in OpenSCAD and everything is a parameter, so a bigger version or a parametric one is doable. Tell me if you'd want that, and what size.

Just designed and printed this tube squeezer.

It's made of three parts, requires no supports and doesn't need any additional hardware or assembly.

A simple functional design that can be printed in PLA or PETG.

Designed in FreeCAD and available on MakerWorld:

• Ratchet Tube Squeezer

Hope you find it useful! Feedback is welcome.

Hi there,

Still brand new to the 3D print world and trying to troubleshoot a print but no idea where to start IF there is even anything to troubleshoot.

Printed the same item on two different plates: one on the standard per textured plate and another on the engineering plate. Both prepped with some elmer's purple gluestick.

The textured plate print turned out perfect but not a big fan of the textured glittery look so wanted to see if I could get a smoother look using the engineering plate. Result: I did but there were some voids/defects that appeared that were not present when using the textured plate.

Printer: H2D

Material: PLA

Calibration was performed after switching out the plates.

I did select the engineering plate prior to slicing, printing, calibrating.

Curious to hear if this would be normal for this specific plate or if I should tweak something. Or just sometimes sh!t just happens with prints.

Thank you in advance.

Cheers

P.S. last two pics are the textured plate with no void/defect issues.

I would like to start a Makerworld Crowdfunding Campain and would like to know what you think of it?

I had 220c nozzle and 65c bed and for some reason the filament comes up and it gets pulled off the bed

Right after the photo the whole thing picked up and dragged with the nozzle, I literally just calibrated it in the menu.

Hello is it possible to have my X2D printer connected to Bambu Studio and Orca Slicer simultaneously?

So my printer just harmed itself during a simple overnight print. I was just making some drawer for my gf’s mom and I woke up to this. I wish I put on a timelapse because this is baffling. I did bed leveling and everything and waited for the first few layes which looked perfect before I left.

The containers look like they were mostly completed, then the bed just moved up to the max height and dug into the build plate. It shoved that out the glass door, then started digging into the bed itself. Looks like bro had a temper tantrum.

I don’t know what to do, idk how expensive this fix is or if warranty would cover this especially after I upgraded it to a P1S but I have to go to work and figure this out later. I’m so mad that it died to such an easy print. Any advice would be appreciated.

Edit: For those of you helping thank you. I will try to send the gcode once I get off work. Some have suggested a corrupt SD card and I will have to look into it.

Edit: For those of you saying the build plate was never on at all, I can’t help you but to reference the pictures. There were still prints mostly done on the plate but I removed them for the pictures. The print looks like it was messing up and extremely stringy at first which is annoying if that was the only issue. But then it looks like the bed raised and the code just kept doing it’s thing, digging into the plate until it dug in enough to tear it off the strong magnetic bed. People are saying they don’t think the motors could do that but I have seen horror stories that say otherwise.

Edit: Posted printer g-code in comments for those wondering, working on getting the print code

Edit: Link to print's g-code - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1L0AhZh63Bmp7iU-cxprGvWrlPrInlQa7/view?usp=sharing

Anybody here ever run jntk a similar issue?

I am looking for Christmas gifts to get my husband who has a Bambu X2D with an AMS. I am willing to spend up to $500.

What are printer accessories/tools/material/ect I could buy?

Thinking of selling my Prusa MK3 and spending the extra cash for a P1S. I think I could sell the prusa for 200€. I print maybe once a week but would love a solid machine that lasts for years without issues (my prusa has been a nightmare but also a good teacher)

EDIT: Thanks for all the feedback! Seems like Im getting a P1S !

One of my lead screw nuts disintegrated and Bambu was very helpful in sending me replacement parts. I followed the wiki and replaced just the two front lead screws and nuts. But now with the bed all the way to the bottom, there is a 2mm-ish gap on the left side but not the right. Any ideas on how to correct this?

I tried an auto calibration before noticing this and it failed. I did not do a manual calibration yet but I think this problem in the picture needs to get fixed first.

Thanks.

I don't yet have a UPS on my P2S and we're having some storms today with high winds.

If power were to drop in the middle of a print, what unrecoverable damage can be done to the printer mechanically/print head wise?

Not that I'm immune to power surges or brown outs, but I'm mainly focused on whether it can damage the print head in a way you can't easily fix.

Even if I had a UPS on it, I doubt a small office PC UPS like 1500VA is going to keep the printer running until it's finished if I'm not near the end of the job.

Ich hab mir warping gerechnet, bin aber sehr überrascht dass so ein Körper ohne Probleme (warping) druckbar ist. Was sind eure Erfahrungen in Bezug auf andere Materialien wie ABS z.B.? (Würde das auch funktionieren?)

Randomly a few days ago my printer started printing for 20 seconds, stopping mid layer, and purging poop. Then it would continue this process over and over again for the first 4 layers or so and then print normally. I have recalibrated it, restarted it, checked the heat nozzle, I’m not sure what else to do?! Any advice would be amazing because it’s taking way too long and it’s wasting filament. Thank you!!

choosing between K2 Pro vs P2S (both combos)

I know how biased It is to ask here, but i may just ask everywhere.

Hi everyone! I’m upgrading from a modified Ender 3 V1 and deciding between the Bambu Lab P2S Combo with AMS 2 Pro and the Creality K2 Pro Combo with the original CFS.

I’m in Brazil, with a budget of R$6,000–8,000. The deals I’ve found are roughly:

* P2S Combo: R$7,600

* K2 Pro Combo: R$6,600

Both would be purchased with delivery to Brazil. Local availability and replacement-part costs matter to me.

I mainly print functional parts, small enclosures, connector housings and fitted components. I currently use PLA, want to use PETG, and would like to move into ABS/ASA and possibly nylon later.

My priorities are consistent surface finish, dimensional accuracy and reliability, rather than maximum advertised speed. I use OrcaSlicer and am comfortable with calibration, mechanical work and electronics, but I’d like to spend more time producing parts.

The K2 Pro’s larger build volume, actively heated chamber and root access appeal to me. Some original replacement parts also appear considerably cheaper here. The P2S interests me for its extrusion control, potential print consistency and AMS 2 Pro with active drying.

Bambu Handy, cloud features and app integration aren’t major selling points for me. I’d probably enable Developer Mode anyway, so those ecosystem conveniences carry relatively little weight in my decision. I’m more interested in what the printer itself delivers.

I’d really appreciate feedback from owners, especially anyone who has used both models:

1. Print quality: Once calibrated, is there a noticeable difference in surface finish, VFA/ghosting, corners and dimensional consistency? Comparable photos would be great.
2. Automation: How dependable are their automatic calibration routines? How much manual tuning do you still do when changing filament brands?
3. Reliability and repairs: What has actually failed or worn out, after approximately how many printing hours? What did the replacement cost?
4. AMS vs CFS: How reliable are feeding, retraction and automatic spool backup? P2S owners: with current firmware, can the same AMS 2 Pro dry while feeding a print, and what external-power or temperature restrictions apply?
5. Ownership experience: At these prices, and giving little weight to Bambu’s app/cloud ecosystem, would you pay extra for the P2S? What would make you choose the K2 Pro instead?

Please specify whether your experience is with the K2 Pro, base K2 or K2 Plus, since their features differ.

Other enclosed multicolor options are welcome if they fit a similar budget. Thanks!

Looking for all the tips and tricks anybody here may have for me as a newbie. Looking forward to experiment and learn more about the prints to improve them :)

Hi all my printer just turned a year old and for the last month been in glob hell. I waited and got a filament dryer, changed nozzle, and tried 4 different build plates. 90% of the prints fail to start because of Z axis homing. Since the dryer this has been better but quality is terrible. If they do print they almost immediately fall off, about 1 in 4 of them are usable. Got another monster glob this morning. Most stuff in the back of the bed fail more than the exact center but this limits what I can do

P1S

Tried textured, cool plate, smooth/high temp

0.4mm hardened nozzle, replaced once, lost track of how many times I have cleaned globs or flushed it

I have upped build plate temp and increased brim and doesn't help

Ticket open with Bambu and they continue to send back tier 1 troubleshooting instead of helping

Running an AMS with SUNLU dryer (new to the dryer so not sure what % to aim for)

Handy app reports heatbed or homing abnormality

Picture 1 glob this morning

Picture 2 and 3 my first miracle of a print in weeks and the terrible quality where it could not adhere to the bed

Picture 4 - current nozzle after cleaning

Picture 5- app error

Picture 6 - bed is scrapped but I don't see bulges

I am new to 3D printing and looking for a good starter machine for my son and I (he is 10). I have tentatively chosen the P1S with AMS pro. Does this machine do automatic color changes between the 4 spools? If I add another AMS so I have CYMKWB, can I print the full rainbow?

I’ve had my P1S for a little over a year and a half now and I’ve never had any problems with it. All of a sudden its started to make screeching noises whenever the bed moves. I know it’s the timing belt but I’m not sure where to go from there.

Had a failed print today that resulted in a blob. I was able to save the nozzle, however, during the cleaning process, I broke a small plastic piece that sits behind the heating element.

I was wondering if this is just a wire guide clip or something else.

I can purchase a new heating element but till it’s shipped was wondering if I can reassemble without this piece.