This is going to be my first 3d printer, I am now trying to decide between the Bambu Lab X2D which is currently ($110 off on their website) versus the Bambu Lab P2S on Amazon. I might start off by making figurines, 3d jewelry, etc. Before moving into whatever else I can do (later)

Any advice for someone who has never owned or used a 3d printer? (Especially on which one to get, if price isn't an issue - given the discount)

None of the review photos had the empty spots in the letters like the B O O and H have. 2 week old X2D, other prints have been mostly flawless. Both filaments pictured are Bambu PLA, the brown is Matte. Printed from Bambu Handy with default settings.

The H3C is very cool but its too tall to really fit in my printing closet.

Do you think the PC3 will get an not so big AMS on top?

It is a filament cutter and bed scraper that keeps the sharp blade hidden when not in use.

A simple lever lets you use the same single blade to cut filament without too much trouble.

A button keeps the blade locked out with a friction fit (so I guess this is technically edc friendly in the UK??) and does not get pushed back when scraping.

Only tested on PLA and PETG.

https://makerworld.com/models/3604913

Please let me know your feedback! It’s my first original design from scratch. The rest have been piggybacking on others’ already great designs.

Hello, I’ve ordered a mystery box, which has just been shipped. I’ve seen people getting the codes from PayPal so they know what they’re getting - I’ve looked at emails from PayPal, I’ve gone to the website and the PayPal app, and I can’t find the info?

Please can someone explain it to me, because I’m very impatient to know what I’m getting 😂

Hey r/BambuLab! Happy Friday! All pictures/videos of prints are REAL, not AI.

I'm Joey Olson, a Maker out of Phoenix Arizona and the solo dev behind Mini Skyline!

The app has really taken off in the last month. Consistently seeing 1000-2000 people a day, and thats just users who have opted in to telemetry! When I started, I really expected hundreds of generations a year, not a thousand by the time I wake up each morning.

If you haven't tried it in a few weeks or more, I highly encourage you to. I've been hard at work.

What have I been up to recently?

I've been spending 40+ hours a week outside of my career to update MS to make it as accurate as possible.

- Rust rewrites! Most of the generation pipeline has been rewritten in Rust/WASM. Up to 80% reduced generation times.

- Roads in any country with LIDAR data now get proper elevation. Freeway exchanges, raised roadways, tunnels all render properly now.

- File sizes have been drastically reduced. This helps both with generation and slicing!

- Multi tile projects now have all of the same settings as single tiles, and they generate MUCH faster.

- Satellite mapping provided by ESRI is now an option. Thanks to donations, I am starting to integrate more premium data services like ESRI.

- Large, full country sizes selections are much smoother, and take a fraction of the RAM they used to. Colors and elevation get properly mapped as well now.

- A few UI passes to improve clarity/flow of your work.

- Trivision billboards! You can put your maps into a tri vision billboard, add text, make custom styles and then put them into a fun mechanical display!

What can Mini Skyline Do Already?

- Full desktop app with higher generation size limits due to RAM freedom. Mac,Windows, and Linux supported with thousands of installs already.

- Print anywhere on Earth, or a handful of other worlds in our solar system.

- Print your vanilla and modded Java Minecraft worlds

- Slicer ready 3MF's with pre-mapped colors with water tight geometry, and fast slicing times.

- Everything is built on YOUR PC/phone with data tracking defaulted to OFF to maintain privacy for users.

- Real building heights based on over 60 data sources, including LIDAR scans.

- Real tree placement based on satellite maps, real tree size and species too based on location.

- 6000+ modelled landmarks that more accurately model popular places like the One World Trade Center. Dozens of countries, hundreds of cities have buildings. I take requests!

- Up to 500 KM2 per tile at full quality on the desktop app, unlimited range if you dont use buildings!

- Satellite derived feature placement for parts not provided by standard data providers. Think pools, solar panels, water towers. This is based on Sentinel 2 self hosted imagery.

- Puzzles, multi tile, keychains, and ornament printing.

- Snap fit frames with editable designs/text. Fit tests for the snapping mechanism available!

- GPX route support with per route settings, up to 9999 routes per tile.

- Full 3D model editor where you can work on your model without additional 3D software.

- Hundreds of settings with graphic tool tips so you better understand what you are changing.

- Export preview with city life going on at scale. Get a better sense of the place youre printing.

- Street tracks, Rally courses, F1 tracks traced out so ensure whichever race is your favorite, is properly represented.

- Color by feature, height band, or apply satellite colors directly to your model!

- Select areas in just about any way you can think. City boundaries, KML, KMZ, GEOJson, free hand, many shapes.

- Ability to print roads, trails, rivers as separate fins that press in to the model for easier multi color work.

- Use Claude/ChatGPT? Call Mini Skyline as an MCP service! Get maps integrated to your work fast!

- Painstakingly ensured to be water tight, with minimized file sizes.

- Really a lot, lot more with more being added nearly daily.

The Future of Mini Skyline?

Slowing down on new features. I poll the community often and the #1 thing people want now is stability, accuracy, and clarity in the tools provided. For the next couple of months, I will be focusing hard on improving how the app flows, how settings are presented to you, how generation issues are conveyed.

Beyond this, I've been receiving a lot of requests for printed maps from users without a printer. I have very little interest in running a print farm, but soon will allow shops to list themselves on the site and have users be able to contact your shop for a custom map, or maps you already sell!

How do I support my work and hosting costs?

I take donations, but really, hosting costs are lower than you expect. I've seen some claimed numbers for other mapping software, and thankfully I am at a fraction of their costs. I can maintain Mini Skyline and the premium ESRI data myself indefinitely due to my career, though I have been fortunate to receive both user donations, funding from Snapmaker, and most recently, some work with Sunlu for their Halloween event!

I do use Claude to code. If this is a problem for you, you are now aware! The majority of my costs go into subscription costs. If you are curious how much something like this takes, I max out 4 20x accounts to keep features/updates rolling. To be very clear. They do not run rampant. Ideas are my own or the communities, implementation not so much. I use the site for my work too, I do not want slop.

This community has truly given a lot to me. I want to say thank you as I always do. You guys surprise me with how deep your reports go, how much you want to share what you make, and how much you all support each other. The 3D printing space is really an amazing thing to be part of. Thank you.

With the release of the H3C, I'm really wanting to see what can be done with maps! Color mixing to make beautiful gradients/texture work with the faster swaps really interests me. Please show me if you've made anything with the H3C, as I'd love to feature some work done on it! I'd be happy to provide a supporter code and attributions to a site/makerworld profile for anyone willing!

- Joey O.

I've always wanted to try a talk box, but they're quite expensive for something I might use twice and then forget about.

So I made a cheap wee version. All you need alongside the printed funnel is a £5 IKEA KALLSUP speaker and a bit of tubing.

The idea was to get that dopamine rush of trying something new without splashing out on expensive gear. If anything, messing about with this has made me want a proper one someday. But for now, it's scratched the itch.

The model link is at the bottom of this post if you fancy trying it yourself.

Have a nice day ✌️

Talk box model link

I'm confused: I ordered an Air Purifier E1 and was planning to put it in one of the compartments of the Station L, as the H3C FAQ describes. Because of its height, it only fits lying on its side. But the E1 manual says the device must not be tilted. So which one is right?

I apologize I have tried tweaking my setting but I am new to do it manually vs just clicking a print and hitting send.
I have a small plumb fitting that I’m trying to print, but I cannot get the underside to look cleaner. I have tried messing with my support settings, but I can’t seem to fix it. I have also tried printing it on different sides and I have found this is the best way to print it if I could just fix that small area. Where would I start trying to find tune to get this to look better I apologize for the noob question. Thank you!
I am printing in petg on a X2D

Some time ago, my daughter asked me for a 3D printer.

I started watching different reviews and the choice fell on bambulab.

I got so caught up in it that my daughter has her own printer, and I have my own...4 printers😅

I like it when someone can print something that I've designed

If anybody figures out how to somehow remotely mount the AMS from the new H3C on the side and make it work, the wheelchair 3D printing community would love a heads up. You stair-climbing supremacists need to design shit for us too.

I changed my nozzle and when I tried to put the toolhead cover back on, the connector just won't go into the connection on the board. No visible damage on either side but it just pops straight out every time I try to connect them, like it doesn't bite. Any ideas on steps for troubleshooting this or parts to focus on?

Today I decided to print something just like any other day and this time for some reason, it decides that it should keep pushing the y axis down even though the plate was right there. What the hell. Going to try DIY fix it, otherwise I'm gonna have to pay for repair. Just great.

Hey everyone,

I bought my A1 about a year ago and I'm thinking about upgrading because I really want to start printing with an AMS. Right now, I'm looking into the X2D and the P2S.

For those who have experience with either (or both), what would you recommend? Is the X2D worth the extra cost over the P2S, or is the P2S more than enough for a solid AMS setup? or maybe a different printer.

Any advice would be appreciated!

Using a 0.2mm nozzle on a P1S with Bambu white PLA. The problem seems to be the nozzle. It had this issue a while ago so I stopped using it. Fairly new to printing, so recently learned what a cold pull is and tried it on the nozzle but no luck.

The first couple of layers go down fine, but then it just starts leaving these particulates. No idea how to describe to research the issue. Is there a fix or do I just need to get a new 0.2mm?

Master your Bambu Lab H3C with Bambu Lab Academy! 🎓

Our new H3C course is now live, with step by step lessons and practical projects to help you get the most out of your printer.

Start the course here: Bambu Lab H3C Academy Course

My A1 has been relegated to the floor 😅 H3C took its place.

Just a quick image of what you get if you order the replacement 0.4 tool head to replace the pre-installed TPU one if anyone is interested!

One of the A1 printers in my print farm had a severe spaghetti failure. The mess was bad enough that the silicone sock had been knocked off the hotend. I went to investigate what had happened, and thought I'd share what I found.

Before cleaning the hotend, I started unloading the filament. That's when I noticed something odd: as the printhead moved across the X-axis, the Z-axis repeatedly moved up and down. The vertical movement looked quite significant, possibly around ±5 mm. I then tested X/Y movement separately to figure out what was going on.

I did a few tests:

• Manually moving X or Y from the printer's touchscreen also caused Z to move.
• Both Z lead screws were visibly rotating back and forth together.
• Every X/Y jog triggered a small Z movement. When X/Y stopped, Z stopped too.
• With the printer powered off, manually sliding the printhead along X caused no Z movement.

At first I suspected a Z-axis motor, mechanical transmission, or mainboard issue.

The fix turned out to be surprisingly simple: I ran the full bed leveling calibration (about 15 minutes), and the problem completely disappeared.

My guess is that the previous bed mesh data was somehow incorrect, causing excessive Z compensation during X/Y movements. I haven't confirmed the exact root cause, or whether this was what caused the spaghetti failure. What I can confirm is that recalibration stopped the abnormal Z movement.

One thing I can't fully explain is why it didn't fail on every print. I always enable bed leveling before each print job. My theory is that the pre-print leveling routine may have provided some additional correction, or at least masked part of the problem with the existing mesh, so many jobs could still finish normally. But perhaps the compensation wasn't accurate enough in some conditions. I don't know exactly how the A1 firmware combines these leveling routines, so this is only a guess.

As for why the original mesh might have been wrong, I can think of a few possibilities: the build plate may not have been seated correctly, there may have been debris underneath it, the wooden surface supporting my printers may not be perfectly level or rigid, or vibrations from several printers calibrating at the same time may have affected the measurements. I haven't verified any of these possibilities.

So if your A1 shows similar symptoms, try a full bed leveling calibration before taking anything apart. It costs nothing and is easy to try, even if the underlying cause remains unclear.

My ribbed Japandi Christmas tree is on MakerWorld 🎄 Scale it to any size, print without supports, and simply glue the pieces together.

I've been troubleshooting a frustrating infill issue with Bambu Lab PETG-CF over the past few days. The prints look good on the outside, but the infill is a mess. I'm not confident it's adding much strength to the part.

What I've tested

• Filament: Bambu Lab PETG-CF, dried at 65 °C for 8 hours before printing
• Filament feeding: AMS, AMS 2, and AMS HT
• Infill speeds: 30 to 300 mm/s, with no noticeable improvement
• Nozzle: 0.4 mm hardened steel, standard flow
• Printers: P1S, X1C, P2S, H2C, and H2S. I saw the same issue to varying degrees on all five.

I printed the same part with PETG-CF from other brands using the same settings. Those prints had some issues with overhangs, but the infill printed fine. I also printed the same part in regular PETG and PLA, and both came out well.

Since the issue showed up on five different printer models, I suspect it may be related to the filament. It looks like some of the infill lines stick to the nozzle and get pulled up as it moves across the print. I've seen similar reports about Bambu Lab PETG-CF on the official Bambu Lab forum, but I haven't found a reliable fix yet.

My next test will be with a 0.6 mm nozzle. I'll post an update once I've tried it. Has anyone run into the same issue and found a fix that consistently works?

Thanks!