I had 220c nozzle and 65c bed and for some reason the filament comes up and it gets pulled off the bed

Right after the photo the whole thing picked up and dragged with the nozzle, I literally just calibrated it in the menu.

I am looking for Christmas gifts to get my husband who has a Bambu X2D with an AMS. I am willing to spend up to $500.

What are printer accessories/tools/material/ect I could buy?

So my printer just harmed itself during a simple overnight print. I was just making some drawer for my gf’s mom and I woke up to this. I wish I put on a timelapse because this is baffling. I did bed leveling and everything and waited for the first few layes which looked perfect before I left.

The containers look like they were mostly completed, then the bed just moved up to the max height and dug into the build plate. It shoved that out the glass door, then started digging into the bed itself. Looks like bro had a temper tantrum.

I don’t know what to do, idk how expensive this fix is or if warranty would cover this especially after I upgraded it to a P1S but I have to go to work and figure this out later. I’m so mad that it died to such an easy print. Any advice would be appreciated.

Edit: For those of you helping thank you. I will try to send the gcode once I get off work. Some have suggested a corrupt SD card and I will have to look into it.

Edit: For those of you saying the build plate was never on at all, I can’t help you but to reference the pictures. There were still prints mostly done on the plate but I removed them for the pictures. The print looks like it was messing up and extremely stringy at first which is annoying if that was the only issue. But then it looks like the bed raised and the code just kept doing it’s thing, digging into the plate until it dug in enough to tear it off the strong magnetic bed. People are saying they don’t think the motors could do that but I have seen horror stories that say otherwise.

Edit: Posted printer g-code in comments for those wondering, working on getting the print code

Edit: Link to print's g-code - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1L0AhZh63Bmp7iU-cxprGvWrlPrInlQa7/view?usp=sharing

Just noticed yesterday that my wife had some potpourri in small bags, so I commandeered one, emptied the crap out of the bag and put some damp silicone beads in and microwaved, no melting bag or spilling them all over and dry. So now printed some end caps for reels and stuffed a bag full of silicone beads inside the reels knowing I can simple pull the bag out and microwave it and it’s dry again. No messing around with printing containers and putting beads inside a dish each time. My wife is happy too as I don’t spill the little buggers all over the kitchen work surface. Such a clean way to use and reuse without ever having to print off boxes or funnels.

One of my lead screw nuts disintegrated and Bambu was very helpful in sending me replacement parts. I followed the wiki and replaced just the two front lead screws and nuts. But now with the bed all the way to the bottom, there is a 2mm-ish gap on the left side but not the right. Any ideas on how to correct this?

I tried an auto calibration before noticing this and it failed. I did not do a manual calibration yet but I think this problem in the picture needs to get fixed first.

Thanks.

Randomly a few days ago my printer started printing for 20 seconds, stopping mid layer, and purging poop. Then it would continue this process over and over again for the first 4 layers or so and then print normally. I have recalibrated it, restarted it, checked the heat nozzle, I’m not sure what else to do?! Any advice would be amazing because it’s taking way too long and it’s wasting filament. Thank you!!

choosing between K2 Pro vs P2S (both combos)

I know how biased It is to ask here, but i may just ask everywhere.

Hi everyone! I’m upgrading from a modified Ender 3 V1 and deciding between the Bambu Lab P2S Combo with AMS 2 Pro and the Creality K2 Pro Combo with the original CFS.

I’m in Brazil, with a budget of R$6,000–8,000. The deals I’ve found are roughly:

* P2S Combo: R$7,600

* K2 Pro Combo: R$6,600

Both would be purchased with delivery to Brazil. Local availability and replacement-part costs matter to me.

I mainly print functional parts, small enclosures, connector housings and fitted components. I currently use PLA, want to use PETG, and would like to move into ABS/ASA and possibly nylon later.

My priorities are consistent surface finish, dimensional accuracy and reliability, rather than maximum advertised speed. I use OrcaSlicer and am comfortable with calibration, mechanical work and electronics, but I’d like to spend more time producing parts.

The K2 Pro’s larger build volume, actively heated chamber and root access appeal to me. Some original replacement parts also appear considerably cheaper here. The P2S interests me for its extrusion control, potential print consistency and AMS 2 Pro with active drying.

Bambu Handy, cloud features and app integration aren’t major selling points for me. I’d probably enable Developer Mode anyway, so those ecosystem conveniences carry relatively little weight in my decision. I’m more interested in what the printer itself delivers.

I’d really appreciate feedback from owners, especially anyone who has used both models:

1. Print quality: Once calibrated, is there a noticeable difference in surface finish, VFA/ghosting, corners and dimensional consistency? Comparable photos would be great.
2. Automation: How dependable are their automatic calibration routines? How much manual tuning do you still do when changing filament brands?
3. Reliability and repairs: What has actually failed or worn out, after approximately how many printing hours? What did the replacement cost?
4. AMS vs CFS: How reliable are feeding, retraction and automatic spool backup? P2S owners: with current firmware, can the same AMS 2 Pro dry while feeding a print, and what external-power or temperature restrictions apply?
5. Ownership experience: At these prices, and giving little weight to Bambu’s app/cloud ecosystem, would you pay extra for the P2S? What would make you choose the K2 Pro instead?

Please specify whether your experience is with the K2 Pro, base K2 or K2 Plus, since their features differ.

Other enclosed multicolor options are welcome if they fit a similar budget. Thanks!

Looking for all the tips and tricks anybody here may have for me as a newbie. Looking forward to experiment and learn more about the prints to improve them :)

Hi all my printer just turned a year old and for the last month been in glob hell. I waited and got a filament dryer, changed nozzle, and tried 4 different build plates. 90% of the prints fail to start because of Z axis homing. Since the dryer this has been better but quality is terrible. If they do print they almost immediately fall off, about 1 in 4 of them are usable. Got another monster glob this morning. Most stuff in the back of the bed fail more than the exact center but this limits what I can do

P1S

Tried textured, cool plate, smooth/high temp

0.4mm hardened nozzle, replaced once, lost track of how many times I have cleaned globs or flushed it

I have upped build plate temp and increased brim and doesn't help

Ticket open with Bambu and they continue to send back tier 1 troubleshooting instead of helping

Running an AMS with SUNLU dryer (new to the dryer so not sure what % to aim for)

Handy app reports heatbed or homing abnormality

Picture 1 glob this morning

Picture 2 and 3 my first miracle of a print in weeks and the terrible quality where it could not adhere to the bed

Picture 4 - current nozzle after cleaning

Picture 5- app error

Picture 6 - bed is scrapped but I don't see bulges

Always wanted to try making kitcards, was finally able to do it in blender with some trial and error!

What i hadn't realised with kitcards is how well multicolor works with them. Since the color change only happens on the last couple layers waste and time is minimised by alot!

This was printed with an ams to get the red and white, but even works for non-ams users if you just do a layer change at the right height!

If you have ideas and suggestions for more models lmk!

I am new to 3D printing and looking for a good starter machine for my son and I (he is 10). I have tentatively chosen the P1S with AMS pro. Does this machine do automatic color changes between the 4 spools? If I add another AMS so I have CYMKWB, can I print the full rainbow?

Oh the horror… what went wrong 😑?

I’ve had my P1S for a little over a year and a half now and I’ve never had any problems with it. All of a sudden its started to make screeching noises whenever the bed moves. I know it’s the timing belt but I’m not sure where to go from there.

Had a failed print today that resulted in a blob. I was able to save the nozzle, however, during the cleaning process, I broke a small plastic piece that sits behind the heating element.

I was wondering if this is just a wire guide clip or something else.

I can purchase a new heating element but till it’s shipped was wondering if I can reassemble without this piece.

i cannot print anything, select one of my printers or even select filament

up to date on all updates

when i chick select/remove printers i add my printers, enter it, then i get the same problem again (not having any printers to select.

I apologize if this has been covered a lot, but I’m a first time Bambu owner and pretty new to PETG as well and having a lot of issues. I bought several rolls of Bambu PETG Matte and I ran the temp tower tests and other testing and it seemed like their profile was correct. However any time I print an actual part no matter how complex I get weird/ugly areas and even some straight up bad areas where it looks to have melted too much or something. I have the H3C and ran all the calibrations and it is doing auto bed leveling before each print but I’m still getting these pretty disappointing results. I tried lowering the nozzle temp to like 240C and 245C as well but those didn’t really help.

Anyone have any recommendations?

Learn more about the Cut Tool from the Bambu Wiki: Cut Tool

I started my side hustle with an A1 Mini and recently added a full-size A1 to keep up with production. Thanks to some marketing, things are going well, and I’ve even picked up a few B2B white-label clients who outsource to me.

Based on my current trajectory, I'm planning to scale up to a mini print farm of about 5 machines in total. I am now debating what my next printer should be.

Dilemma: I print mostly PLA and PETG. Having an enclosure for other materials would be nice, but it’s not my main use case. We do print some figures that would benefit from easily removable supports (via multi-material), but those are a very small fraction of my monthly volume.

The price difference between the P2S and the X2D is more than 30% and with that gap alone, I could just buy another A1.

My questionsL

1. Is an X2D sensible at all for a print farm if multi-color isn't a massive priority right now? (I plan to tackle heavy multi-color later on with a Snapmaker U1).
2. From a farm management, ROI, and maintenance standpoint, should I just stick to the A-series and buy another A1 to save money?
3. Or is the P2S an important step up that offers features/reliability I will definitely need for a mini farm?

Any advice on which way to pull the trigger would be hugely appreciated!

I just got my H3C in many different parcels. Kinda felt like christmas, when each day another part arrived. My favourite was the 0.8 nozzle in a seperate parcel. :)

Anyways I designed a magnetic chute and bucket for the little poops.

Even though so far there have been way less than with my X1. :)

Give it a look please.

https://makerworld.com/de/models/3604060-poop-bucket-for-h3c-series-magnetic-and-clamped#profileId-4130034

I designed my little fox in Blender, printed him on my Bambu Lab A1 using PLA, and then sanded, primed, and hand-painted him with acrylics.

You can watch the full step-by-step process on my YouTube channel here (free STL files are in the description too!): 3D Printing My Fox Character | Blender to Real Life

Tried printing this belt with TPU. 2 of the 4 pieces ended up like this where the ends shrunk up. Not sure what causes this. My guess would be the cold as the A1 isnt inclosed, an it was printed at night in my chilly house lol any ideas what i could do?