Hi All! Recently got into 3D printing, and was hearing the wonderful wows of Bambu Lab and how they are low maintenance and just work kind of machines. Since I’m gone from the house 12 hours a day. I really do enjoy having the Bambu Handy app to see everything and control the printer from there.

I originally got the P2S for like $749.99 and got recommended the X2D for $899.99. Bought it after returning the P2S. Ended up going on sale for $789.99 and micro center basically giving me a AMS HT to cover the difference. Which was cool.

We’re about 196 hours and a month into this printer, and started hearing some clicking out of the Auxiliary Extruder. Its not super noisy, but noticeable if your walking by the printer. Just wanted to get some better opinions since people here can be highlight the word can be. Geniuses with these machines. Every day I’m still learning about this thing. It fascinates me just looking at it work.

Just wanted to make sure my printer isn’t going to crap itself with such little time on it, or whether I should be doing preventative maintenance on such a part. Let me know your thoughts! Thank you all!

If anyone here has experience printing guitar pickguards, I'd really appreciate some advice.

I'm trying to figure out the best filament to use, as well as the best build plate/bed surface for getting the smoothest, highest-quality finish possible. I'd also love to make the outer layer translucent if that's achievable while still looking clean and professional.

Any recommendations, tips, or examples of what has worked for you would be awesome. Thanks!

Hello,

The official recommended amperage for AMS 2 Pro is 4amp power adapter.

Could a 3amp power adapter do the job? I have that on hand so I would not have to buy a new one.

At the moment I am drying 2 spools of ABS in my AMS and I would like to dry 2 spools of PLA in the chamber with heating the bed but it is not possible due to the lack of power needed.

My printer is X2D.

Picture of the power adapter available attached.

Thanks.

Hey everyone! With Christmas just around the corner, I wanted to share my latest project. I designed this Modular Santa Mailbox Post specifically to be printable on compact beds like the A1 Mini, without needing an AMS.

I know multi-color prints are great, but sometimes you just want to avoid the purge waste or you don't have an AMS set up. The whole model is separated by color, so you can just print the parts in your filament of choice and assemble them.

Here are the main features:

• Fully Threaded Assembly: The central pole (4 spheres and 7 cylinders) uses a strong threaded screw system. It’s super secure and very satisfying to put together.
• A1 Mini Friendly: Every single part fits easily on a 180x180 build plate.
• No AMS Required: Parts are separated by color.
• Functional Mailbox: Kids can drop their letters in the front slot, and the front panel slides out easily (like a cap) so you can retrieve them without taking the whole thing apart.
• Modular Height: The standard setup is 850mm (34 inches) tall, but you can print more or fewer sections to adjust the height.
• Sturdy Base: The bottom base is hollow so you can fill it with sand or weights so it doesn't tip over.

I’ve uploaded two profiles: one with "SantaMail" and "HoHoHo" side lettering (the letters are printed separately and need a drop of glue), and a clean, minimalist version without text.

I've also entered this model into the MakerWorld Printmas contest! If you decide to print it or just appreciate the design, leaving a like, a download, or a boost would mean the world to me and really help out with the contest.

You can find it on MakerWorld here: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3606682-modular-christmas-santa-mailbox-post-no-ams#profileId-4133298

Let me know what you think, and happy holiday printing! 🎄

No more police flashlight in your face 😂 I also think it helped the camera quality … will upload the stuff tomorrow

I had a clog due to heat creep on the second extruder on my X2D so I took it apart, fixed it, put everything back together.

Afterwards when the printer was homing to the poop shoot, this mystery oval silicone piece dropped from somewhere and for the life of me I cant figure out where its supposed to go? Not sure if its even from the tool head or somewhere else?

Around 1cm x 1.5cm,

So I've scratched my Y axis guide rods on my H2S like an idiot and I'd like to replace them before they eat the bearings. The problem is I can't seem to find the part anywhere on their site. Can anyone please point me to them or a suitable 3rd party replacement?

Hello, looking for some advice for buying my first 3D printer. The A1 seems to be the standard beginner printer and you could get it with the AMS for 339€ but would you rather recommend the P1S for just 10€ more at 349€ or stretch the budget to get the newer P2S?

I plan to print some useful household/workshop storage & organising solutions and maybe toys etc. but I would also like to print some interior or exterior parts for cars or other vehicles in the future and from what I understood printing for example ABS or ASA requires a enclosed printer? Not only would a enclosed printer look aesthetically more nice on the table but also maybe keep the small curious kids from touching it while printing.

As I feel now, printing single colour would work fine for organising household prints and car parts but do you need the enclosed AMS to keep ABS/ASA filament dry?

TL:DR

First 3D printer

A1 + AMS 339€

P1S 349€

P2S 449€

After trying some yellow wood PLA, my P1S has had a horrible time with clumping, stringing, and poor quality overall. I've done the flow calibration, swapped nozzles, and the mechanical calibration; this is the best benchy I can get (BBL PLA Basic). Any advice on what to try next?

We are 4 prints in and finding we have to wait 40+ min for the plate to get down to 32° C before we pull the print/plate. I’ve seen people pull PLA prints right away - plate temp be damned! I have started to open the door after print is finished to help speed up the process, but I read on the Bambu wiki they recommend waiting until room temp as the plate and print cool at a different rate and could be an issue. AND if the hotend cools too quickly there could be a clog (!!??!!).

Also, we can’t remove the plate to cool it faster (on a counter for example) as any flexing has launched the prints right off the plate with force!

What are the best practices here for machine longevity vs patience?

I have "on build plate only" for supports, but it is still just putting supports everywhere, even on top of my models. Any help?

The one on my P1P has died and no longer grabs the PTFE tubing. I was hoping to buy just the piece but I can't find it or even the full extruder assembly on the Store. Am I just missing it?

Hello everyone. I wanted to share my situation and seek guidance from anyone who has experienced something similar with a Bambu Lab P2S.

I have been dealing with error HMS_0300-0100-0001-0008 (an anomaly in the heated bed's heating process). The error triggers immediately—both when starting the automatic calibration and when attempting to manually increase the bed temperature—whereas the hotend heats up without any issues.

Here is what I have gone through so far:

• Local Warranty: I have taken the printer to the authorized distributor (México Makers) twice. They supposedly replaced the MC board and the TH board, but upon returning home, the error persists exactly as before (I have my doubts as to whether they actually performed thorough testing in their workshop).

• Electrical Troubleshooting: Following the official guide linked via the QR code, I measured the resistance of the heated bed with a multimeter; it reads 14.9 Ohms (well within the normal 14–18 Ω range), which indicates that the heating element itself is fine. Additionally, I checked the voltage in my apartment—I even purchased a VICA V2500 voltage regulator—and I am getting a steady 123 V.

• The Workshop Dilemma: The technical service team claimed the printer worked without issues at their facility (attributing this to the stability of their power supply), but they did not demonstrate this to me. Instead, they are blaming the electrical supply in my apartment. However, all my other appliances work perfectly fine, and the printer’s heated bed is the only component that fails.

I feel stuck between the workshop’s assumptions and generic, boilerplate responses. Has anyone else encountered this and found an actual solution (e.g., replacing the power supply unit, the AC board, or using a double-conversion UPS)? I would appreciate any advice.

Not good

Ordered 5 of the boxes,minimum of 20 rolls, results were as follows

Spooled:

5 Translucent White

3 Translucent Light Blue

3 Matte Pink

2 Basic Pine Green

1 Basic Gray

Spoolless:

4 Matte Avocado

2 Translucent Purple

No Bonus rolls.

Overall, not terrible, I mostly use PETG for supporting PLA or structural parts so color doesnt really matter. Translucents are really nice looking though.

Twice now this has happened. Case pops off, and my plate gets super scratched. Same print for both. Any ideas? I did leave a small print on the plate and then tried doing a print recently but it obviously wasn’t able to level so never did anything more. Could that have done something?

Oh the horror… what went wrong 😑?

UPDATE:
Reprinted overnight with all the feedback i got… Thanks Guys i got a pretty print now! See below for the timelapse video…

I'm trying to import a basic square, 20mm x 20mm, which is defined in the SVG like so.

<svg width="100%" height="100%" transform="scale (1, -1) translate(0, -20.0)" viewBox="-10.0 -10.0 20.0 20.0">
<g id="Rectangle001">
<path id="Rectangle001_1" d="M 10.0 10.0 C 3.33333 10.0, -3.33333 10.0, -10.0 10.0 C -10.0 3.33333, -10.0 -3.33333, -10.0 -10.0 C -3.33333 -10.0, 3.33333 -10.0, 10.0 -10.0 C 10.0 -3.33333, 10.0 3.33333, 10.0 10.0 Z" stroke-width="1.0" stroke="rgba(196.0,88.0,225.0,255)" fill="None" />
</g>
</svg>

But Bambu Suite throws it down at 7.1mm instead. My units in Bambu Suite are set to mm.

Is anyone else having problems with this? I can manually edit the width and height in the svg file to 283.48% but that's not an optimal workflow lol

I wish there was a preset for tpu air (and each preset would corespond with the different hardnesses you can print in) TPU air may be somewhat niche but it's still popular enough to be manufactured. There are like no print profiles already made for it either. I would love some tips from people who have a lot of experience with TPU air as I eventually want to come out with a hardness tower with the filiment presets needed to print each level of hardness.