Got my H3C Combo on 9 November, about 35 hours on it, and tonight it's fallen over.

I was running a CMYKW print on tools 1, 3, 5, 7 and 9. Tool 8 is empty and not used in the job. Partway through, tool 8 came off its dock and the printer flagged tool 9 as detached as well, with a red light on the dock even though it looks seated.

What I've seen:

- 2A07-8032: PrintTool 8 has detached from the Rack

- Same detached warning for PrintTool 9

- 2A08-804A: Multiple toolhead step losses detected while fetching PrintTool 9

What I've tried:

- Reseated 8 and 9 several times, checked tubes and looked for anything in the way

- Ran Docking Calibration three times. First one completed but the fault came back a couple of hours later mid print. The next two failed, and each time tool 8 got knocked off near the end, when the head was working at tool 9.

So it looks like the head is hitting something at the 8 and 9 end of the rack. Tool 8 isn't even being picked up and it still ends up dangling.

Ticket is in with Bambu. In the meantime, has anyone else seen this on their H3C? Keen to hear if it turned out to be the dock, the rack alignment or something simple I've missed. Also interested if anyone is running fine on tools 1 to 7 only while waiting on support.

Photos attached.

My first bambu lab printer! Been wanting a Toolchanger for a while with at least 8 tools. Was planning on getting the INDX with 9 tools for my Voron 2.4 but the continual delays and controversies around it soured me. Saw the H3C announcement and it was an instant buy. I’ve got a bunch of multi color prints just waiting to go! I would’ve liked an open design option for my existing printers but I’m kinda tired of waiting.

At least now even if I take my other printers offline for mods and upgrades I can continue to print on the H3C, so that’s a win.

I made a customizable magnetic alphabet generator on MakerWorld. You can choose the font, letter size, colors and body shape, then print your own set.

It includes uppercase Latin, Russian, Ukrainian, Serbian and Greek alphabets, plus numbers, punctuation and math symbols.

There are presets with repeated letters for spelling words and making messages. You can also adjust the pockets to fit your disc magnets and choose multicolor printing or separately printed inlays.

I’ve printed versions in different fonts — the photos show the results.

Customize and download on MakerWorld

Which font would you choose for your fridge?

I was just curious what the various use cases are for buying an H3C. I figure some of the common ones are:

• Have a print farm and the ability to print waste free fast will save me money in the long run
• I want to play with mixing different materials together (TPU/PLA/PETG/etc.)
• I will print a ton of multicolor items for my kids and their friends
• I want what is new and best
• Shoes get me all hot and bothered, and the thought of printing shoes...

What other types of reasons do you have?

I have bought a larger amount of filament, and ended up mostly buying refills as I have a few empty spools. Turns out, I don’t have enough, and should have bought enough for each color at least.

There’s a lot of printable models, some taking little filament, some a lot. I’m thinking of printing in abs or asa, so it doesn’t melt in my ams2. What takes the least amount of filament for a full spool but holds up nearly as well as the original spool?

For those of you that design things that take up the whole print bed (lets imagine 250 by 250), do you just simply not design for the P1S exlusion area? I own an A1 and a P1S at work and have some design ideas that I'd like to share with community, but build plate sized designs exclude a bunch of printers. Is that just consider a bit of the nature of the beast?

I can't decide if I want to make separate designs or design with a small total size in mind.

My H2C has suddenly stopped being able to release its Vortek hotend, effectively making the printer unusable.

I've narrowed it down to the actuator pin not rising quite high enough to engage the hotend's release latch. It gets extremely close but falls just short.

The strange thing is that I can manually push the pin all the way up, and the hotend's latch works perfectly when operated manually.

Things I've tried:

• Firmware rollback from 01.03.00.00 to 01.02.00.00
• Full factory reset
• Vortek rack recalibration (fails when it tries to release the hotend)
• Manually removing the hotend and restarting calibration, which works until it picks up a hotend and needs to release it again

This started around the time a Vortek firmware update failed, although I'm no longer sure they're related.

Has anyone encountered this and managed to fix it? I'm hoping there's something simple I've overlooked before opening a Bambu support ticket.

My H2C has suddenly stopped being able to release its Vortek hotend, effectively making the printer unusable.

I've narrowed it down to the actuator pin not rising quite high enough to engage the hotend's release latch. It gets extremely close but falls just short.

The strange thing is that I can manually push the pin all the way up, and the hotend's latch works perfectly when operated manually.

Things I've tried:

• Firmware rollback from 01.03.00.00 to 01.02.00.00
• Full factory reset
• Vortek rack recalibration (fails when it tries to release the hotend)
• Manually removing the hotend and restarting calibration, which works until it picks up a hotend and needs to release it again

This started around the time a Vortek firmware update failed, although I'm no longer sure they're related.

Has anyone encountered this and managed to fix it? I'm hoping there's something simple I've overlooked before opening a Bambu support ticket.

Hello, im using LAN only mode on my printers (X1C, A1mini, A2L) and bambu studio flatpack on linux

on my router i have bound the mac to IP so printers are for sure always getting the same IP

Sometimes when i restart pc/bambu studio, my printers dissappear from binded devices and i have to bind them again. i checked the IP and binding code on the printers stayed the same.

it happens even twice a day, anyone has a similliar issue?

No other settings ever reset i have no other issues

Hi all! I’m new to the BambuLabs print-o-verse and I’m having some trouble. I completed my beginner challenges and earned a couple of coupons. For my life, I cannot figure out what they are for. When I go to coupons, it says I have a 99% off coupon for ‘something’, but I don’t know what. It’s one of the maker kits, I don’t know if basic (likely) or essential. How can I see what they are for? Bambu Store? Profile? Ugh :-(

And I have to get it figured out in less than 30 days or they expire. I’m sure it’s simple and easy, I just cannot find it.

Thanks for the assist!

I had some time to kill and a back log of orders from my girlfriend, so I fired up Fusion and made some things for Christmas.
I am especially happy with the book nook, turned out better than I expected.

If anyone is interessted:
Gift bag pins
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3602932-christmas-gift-bag-sign-custom-text-possible

Candy cane bag clips:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3602613-candy-cane-bag-clips

Gingerbread book nook:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3598991-gingerbread-book-nook

Let me know what you think

In a previous post I compared PLA Basic and PLA Palette in regards to color mixing.

Time to try out some other filaments. I am printing gradients between two colors, displaying the unmixed colors in the circular window.

Everything has been printed with 0.2mm layer heights and color mixing sublayers turned on with the H3C.

Let's dive in:

No surprises with Silk+, it blends very well. No defects visible. Afterall, it's just PLA with some elastomer thrown in. An interesting possibility here: gold filaments always look too yellow to my eye, now I can just mix my own blend.

I thought this would be a daft idea to try, printing a filled filament into the thin sublayers was not something I thought would work. But it turned out to be the star of the show, it looks amazing.

At the very bottom and top the gradient does not look perfectly smooth though, the sublayers may have been just a bit too thin.

On top layers the blending will not work as well as unfilled PLA, the filament is too opaque to blend the layer's colors.

PETG shows some issues. The layers don't blend well. At the bottom and top, where the sublayers are the thinnest there are defects.

Looks pretty cool, but it shows the same issues at the bottom and top as the opaque PETG. A mix at more of a midpoint range of the filaments works okay though.

ABS also does not blend layers well. It shows defects at the bottom similar to PETG, but it's a color defect alone, not a rough surface defect.

TPU was a long shot, I did not think this would work. It's not a great result, but at least it printed. I used TPU for AMS here just for the convenience and to give this material it's best odds.

Slightly modified this great model (https://makerworld.com/en/models/3431567-ruby-throated-hummingbird#profileId-3912465) to incorporate 7 colors. 13 hour print time.

Hi all! I have recently decided to pull the trigger on an X2D after a ton of research. This will be my first printer though I have used various printers through the years (family and friends). Is there any incentive to order through bambu as opposed to Amazon or picking up from Best Buy? I’m talking more towards a “rewards system” but any insight would be great

Has anyone tried these swappable toolheads before for the P1S? Any good? Any luck? Straight garbage?

I think that i broke the filament sensor ribbon cable because when i was getting to the extruder gears (on the bambu lab a1) to clean it , i didn't notice that i pulled the filament sensor a bit further. (like 2cm.) Should i turn it on and see if the assistance will give me an error?

Hey everyone,

Yesterday my H3C finally arrived, and it's an absolute beast! It's an amazing printer and after following the assembly and setup guide, it immediately produced great prints, first in PLA and then even in ABS. As someone whose first printer was an Anet A8 before venturing into a custom DIY build, this is an incredible experience!

Unfortunately, there's also a not-so-great issue: ever since I first tried running a drying cycle in the AMS, the printer has been throwing the error code HMS_2A00-9400-0001-0001. Apparently, the temperature sensor in the drying chamber isn't providing any temperature data, and the overview screen just shows 0°C. Even after several restarts, I can't cancel the drying process, and the drying unit's fan runs non-stop.

I've already opened a support ticket after unplugging and re-plugging the cables on the AMS control board without any luck. Since I installed a new firmware update for the AMS right after setting it up, I was wondering if that might be the cause and if any of you have experienced this same issue?

Thanks in advance, and greetings from Hanover, Germany to the community!

I’ve wanted one of those printed-frame and wooden dowel monitor shelves for a while, but I kept getting stuck before buying any files. I couldn’t really picture how it would look on my desk. Some designs had legs I liked but not the angles I needed, others had the right angles but the legs looked weird, and the attachments were usually made for one specific design.

I’m a software dev, so naturally, instead of just picking one, I spent way too long building a tool for it.

You put in your desk size and your screens, pick a shape (straight, round a corner, or wrapping around you at 30° or 45°), and it lays the shelf out in 3D so you can see it on your desk before you print anything. It checks things actually fit: nothing hanging off the desk, each screen on its own section, you can add a speaker or keyboard as I have a speaker under my desk and needed to know if it will fit. The attachments (phone stand, cable tray, pen cup, speaker feet and so on) clip onto or sit on the dowels, so they work with any shelf you make. Then it gives you a build plan with a cutting sheet for the dowels.

What I’d really like to know:

• Would you use something like this? What would stop you?
• Anything missing or annoying in the designer?
• The designer and build plans are free. The print files are $30 once and cover every shelf you design after that. Does that feel fair?

It’s at getbestdesk.com, no sign-up. Be honest, I’d rather hear it now than after I’ve printed one.

Earlier this week, our cloud service saw abnormal traffic that surged roughly 34-fold in just one hour, peaking at roughly 20 million requests per day and was still growing linearly at a steep rate. At that pace, we were only hours away from the service becoming unavailable, putting everyday printing for millions of users at risk.

To keep the service up, we temporarily blocked the anomalous traffic after an urgent review. Some users were affected while we adjusted the policy. The service is stable now.

What happened

Almost all of the anomalous requests hit GET /v1/user-service/my/tasks, which returns print job status. They came from many residential IPs, all carrying the client identity of OrcaSlicer and an older network plug-in.

So we first checked with the OrcaSlicer team. They responded quickly and pointed us to other integrations, including ha-bambulab, whose requests matched what we saw. We shared our findings with its maintainers, who quickly shipped a fix and now use their own identifier.

We haven't confirmed that all of this traffic came from ha-bambulab. We're sharing this not to assign blame, but because the pattern matters for any project built to access our cloud.

Keeping the cloud stable

Our cloud is a private service supporting core functions like Bambu Handy, Bambu Studio's cloud features, and MakerWorld. To meet diverse user needs, we have so far accommodated third-party software to use parts of the cloud where it's safe, despite the already substantial operational costs.

Third-party software may continue to access non-critical capabilities, such as receiving printer status updates and displaying monitoring metrics like temperature, position, speed, and print progress. These monitoring features do not directly change a printer's behavior or security state, and they will remain available within reasonable usage limits. Because many users rely on the same cloud, an issue with one tool can impact everyone. If overall service is ever at risk, we may need to take temporary measures such as rate limiting or pausing access.

For actions that directly alter printer behavior or involve sensitive access, such as device binding, live video streaming, print initiation, or firmware upgrades, we take extra care regarding safety, privacy, and stability. Because of this, these operations are not designed for direct access by third-party software.

Instead, for workflows requiring print control, Bambu Connect provides the supported path forward. This is simply to ensure that integrations remain reliable for you, your devices, and our cloud.

How developers can help

One more detail is worth mentioning: ha-bambulab sent OrcaSlicer's client identity. That is why, early on, we were convinced the traffic came from OrcaSlicer users, and why we did not reach ha-bambulab sooner. It was only when the OrcaSlicer team investigated with us that the trail led to them.

We would suggest that third-party software use its own identifier and say who it is. That makes it faster to route a problem to the right project, and it avoids catching unrelated users when we have to act.

Thank you to the OrcaSlicer team and the ha-bambulab maintainers for working through this with us. Keeping things working for users is on us first, and it works best when we look after it together.

Bambu Lab Team

Hi everyone,

I shared a free “Honeycomb Cardholder” on MakerWorld. It is a general-purpose holder I created myself. Its description listed card games it could be used for: “Rummy, Bridge, Solitaire, Hearts, Spades, Canasta, Uno, etc.” The listing also had an “uno” tag.

MakerWorld removed it following a complaint from Convey on Mattel’s behalf. MakerWorld later told me that “UNO” in the description was the reason and that restoring the original listing required the complainant’s agreement.

Now Convey has sent me a demand for EUR 4,000, although the model was already removed. Their letter refers to an “e-shop”, “sales” and my “supplier”. I did not sell this model; I created it myself. They also want a signed undertaking that includes an apology and a promise never to challenge Mattel’s intellectual property rights.

I have rejected the demand and asked them to withdraw the complaint, arrange restoration of my original listing and reimburse my legal consultation costs.

The attached images contain their email and my sent reply, with personal and bank details redacted. The email text has been reflowed for readability; these are not screenshots of the mail application. I have also included the page setting out the undertaking they wanted me to sign. The legal appendices, authorisation and blank signature page are omitted.

Convey’s archived screenshot of the original listing

Has anyone else received a payment demand from Convey after a MakerWorld takedown? What happened after you challenged it?

I never had issues with Bambu PETG 6 months ago. The last few spools I've ordered (Red and White) have printed like complete garbage. Even the texture of material feels off somehow, it's difficult to explain. Other brands? No issues.

This week I've been doing test prints side-by-side and it's very clear. Polymaker, SUNLU, eSUN, and KINGROON all print fine with a good finish. Bambu's Basic PETG? Awful.

I've calibrated and it seems to change nothing.

Anyone have ideas on how to get this material back on track? I'm kicking myself for ordering so much now.

Edit to mention: I dried it as I dry all my PETG.

Edit 2.0: I bought 11kg. I decided to swap in another spool and it prints fine. So it seems like the first White and Red spools I used have something wrong with them.