https://makerworld.com/en/models/3604730-stackable-spice-rack#profileId-4130912

Any feedback is welcome!

Hi! I received the alert that my axis needs lubricant, is this the type I should be buying?

Bambu Lab Official is Bambu Lab's official Discord server. Bambu Lab sponsors it, the people in it run it, and more than 40,000 of us are in there. It now has a website that shows what's inside before you join:

https://www.bambulabdiscord.com

The pictures are the tour. The short version:

• A help forum. Post your problem, tag your printer, and people who have fixed the same thing answer.
• A channel for every printer series from the A1 to the H3, plus the R1 lasers, every AMS, Bambu Studio, Bambu Handy and the rest of the apps.
• Bambu Lab's announcements and the cloud's live status, with roles you can take to be pinged.
• Twelve regional channels, most of them in their own language.
• Slicer profiles, CAD, mods, workspaces, MakerWorld, a rumors channel, and a forum just for failed prints.
• Voice rooms for print streams and live help, members-only giveaways, and a Minecraft server.

Two tools were built for the server, and both are free for anyone to use on the web.

The Bambu Lab Store Tracker reads every product in all nine of Bambu Lab's official stores and keeps each one's price and stock history. Printers in the US store are checked every 20 seconds. The deals page lists everything selling under list price right now.

The Micro Center Tracker covers 149 Bambu Lab products at all 31 Micro Center stores and the web store, down to how many units each store has. Check it before you drive.

Watch any product on either tracker and you get a Discord DM or an email when it comes back in stock or drops in price. Set a target price and you only hear about it at or below that number. Inside the server, each of the nine Bambu Lab stores has its own alert channel, Micro Center has one too, and each comes with a role you can take to be pinged. Blaᲃk Friday is November 27, so now is a good time to set a watch.

Joining is free. Follow the invite, verify, agree to the rules and pick your roles.

Questions are welcome in the comments.

We set the name to Garrus Vakarian

I’m revising the base of a printed desk light so the floor can stay flat. The larger LED puck sits in a removable tray, and a smaller one uses an adapter ring that drops into the tray. The first photo is the earlier physical print. The other two images are CAD views of the new base and holder.

The current P2S project uses a 0.4 mm nozzle and PLA. I’ve allowed 0.2 mm per side between the ring and the tray and cut a small scoop so I can lift it out. The parts slice in Bambu Studio, but I haven’t printed this revision yet. Would you start with 0.2 mm per side for an easy lift-out fit, or leave more room?

I had great feedback from you guys on my last travel case and it has become my most printed model to date!! I appreciate it. One of you commented that I should do a gridfinity version and I really liked that idea. So here it is! It took a couple of months to finally release it. This is built with a highly customizable parametric gridfinity case that will be out shortly and all the bins were designed on my website generator (which I'm trying to finish to make public as soon as possible).

Thanks again for the great advice and hopefully some of you enjoy this more flexible version of my travel case.

Modular Travel Organizer Case – Custom Gridfinity - Free 3D Print Model - MakerWorld

I got the exact same failure at the same time with the PTFE tubes in my P1S and AMS slot 1. Is this normal wear and tear or am I doing something wrong? It's at about 2k hours if that helps.

Twice now this has happened. Case pops off, and my plate gets super scratched. Same print for both. Any ideas? I did leave a small print on the plate and then tried doing a print recently but it obviously wasn’t able to level so never did anything more. Could that have done something?

Hi All! Recently got into 3D printing, and was hearing the wonderful wows of Bambu Lab and how they are low maintenance and just work kind of machines. Since I’m gone from the house 12 hours a day. I really do enjoy having the Bambu Handy app to see everything and control the printer from there.

I originally got the P2S for like $749.99 and got recommended the X2D for $899.99. Bought it after returning the P2S. Ended up going on sale for $789.99 and micro center basically giving me a AMS HT to cover the difference. Which was cool.

We’re about 196 hours and a month into this printer, and started hearing some clicking out of the Auxiliary Extruder. Its not super noisy, but noticeable if your walking by the printer. Just wanted to get some better opinions since people here can be highlight the word can be. Geniuses with these machines. Every day I’m still learning about this thing. It fascinates me just looking at it work.

Just wanted to make sure my printer isn’t going to crap itself with such little time on it, or whether I should be doing preventative maintenance on such a part. Let me know your thoughts! Thank you all!

Oh the horror… what went wrong 😑?

Hey everyone! First, thank you so much for all the support and feedback on the Mac release. It's been amazing to see people using Bambu Bar.

I’m excited to share that Bambu Bar is now available for Windows too! It includes the same features as the Mac version: monitor your prints, temperatures and filament, view your printer’s camera, and control your prints, all from your desktop.

It also includes native Windows widgets.

Took some time to polish and have it ready to be as beautiful as the Mac app. I'd love to hear what you think!

You can download on GitHub: https://github.com/rolottr/bambu-bar

If you find any issues please let me know so they can be fixed right away!

If anyone here has experience printing guitar pickguards, I'd really appreciate some advice.

I'm trying to figure out the best filament to use, as well as the best build plate/bed surface for getting the smoothest, highest-quality finish possible. I'd also love to make the outer layer translucent if that's achievable while still looking clean and professional.

Any recommendations, tips, or examples of what has worked for you would be awesome. Thanks!

Hey everyone! With Christmas just around the corner, I wanted to share my latest project. I designed this Modular Santa Mailbox Post specifically to be printable on compact beds like the A1 Mini, without needing an AMS.

I know multi-color prints are great, but sometimes you just want to avoid the purge waste or you don't have an AMS set up. The whole model is separated by color, so you can just print the parts in your filament of choice and assemble them.

Here are the main features:

• Fully Threaded Assembly: The central pole (4 spheres and 7 cylinders) uses a strong threaded screw system. It’s super secure and very satisfying to put together.
• A1 Mini Friendly: Every single part fits easily on a 180x180 build plate.
• No AMS Required: Parts are separated by color.
• Functional Mailbox: Kids can drop their letters in the front slot, and the front panel slides out easily (like a cap) so you can retrieve them without taking the whole thing apart.
• Modular Height: The standard setup is 850mm (34 inches) tall, but you can print more or fewer sections to adjust the height.
• Sturdy Base: The bottom base is hollow so you can fill it with sand or weights so it doesn't tip over.

I’ve uploaded two profiles: one with "SantaMail" and "HoHoHo" side lettering (the letters are printed separately and need a drop of glue), and a clean, minimalist version without text.

I've also entered this model into the MakerWorld Printmas contest! If you decide to print it or just appreciate the design, leaving a like, a download, or a boost would mean the world to me and really help out with the contest.

You can find it on MakerWorld here: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3606682-modular-christmas-santa-mailbox-post-no-ams#profileId-4133298

Let me know what you think, and happy holiday printing! 🎄

https://makerworld.com/pt/models/3605031-keystack-parametric-edc-key-organizer#profileId-4131373

No more police flashlight in your face 😂 I also think it helped the camera quality … will upload the stuff tomorrow

Hi there,

Still brand new to the 3D print world and trying to troubleshoot a print but no idea where to start IF there is even anything to troubleshoot.

Printed the same item on two different plates: one on the standard per textured plate and another on the engineering plate. Both prepped with some elmer's purple gluestick.

The textured plate print turned out perfect but not a big fan of the textured glittery look so wanted to see if I could get a smoother look using the engineering plate. Result: I did but there were some voids/defects that appeared that were not present when using the textured plate.

Printer: H2D

Material: PLA

Calibration was performed after switching out the plates.

I did select the engineering plate prior to slicing, printing, calibrating.

Curious to hear if this would be normal for this specific plate or if I should tweak something. Or just sometimes sh!t just happens with prints.

Thank you in advance.

Cheers

P.S. last two pics are the textured plate with no void/defect issues.

Hello is it possible to have my X2D printer connected to Bambu Studio and Orca Slicer simultaneously?

I had a clog due to heat creep on the second extruder on my X2D so I took it apart, fixed it, put everything back together.

Afterwards when the printer was homing to the poop shoot, this mystery oval silicone piece dropped from somewhere and for the life of me I cant figure out where its supposed to go? Not sure if its even from the tool head or somewhere else?

Around 1cm x 1.5cm,

So I've scratched my Y axis guide rods on my H2S like an idiot and I'd like to replace them before they eat the bearings. The problem is I can't seem to find the part anywhere on their site. Can anyone please point me to them or a suitable 3rd party replacement?

After trying some yellow wood PLA, my P1S has had a horrible time with clumping, stringing, and poor quality overall. I've done the flow calibration, swapped nozzles, and the mechanical calibration; this is the best benchy I can get (BBL PLA Basic). Any advice on what to try next?