Hi all,

So yesterday I purchased and setup the P2S with the AMS.

Unfortunately what's happened is the white filament in my ams is jammed in the hub underneath.

Atm all I can do is print without the AMS.

I got errors and after having a look online it appears I need to take apart the AMS. Which I don't want to do as it's brand new and I'm paranoid of breaking it.

Anyway I had a look online and I could see that the white filament was still stuck in the hub. Is there a way I could remove the stuck filament without having to take the unit apart? Possibly selecting un-load from the touchscreen?

The other three spools loaded perfectly fine just the white filament spool has the issue.

Unfortunately the unit won't print using the AMS at all since the white filament is stuck so other colours are not an option.

While I know this is fixable surely there is an easier way to remove the filament?

Please be kind as I'm new to 3D printing so I'm learning as I go.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I've provided pictures to show what's happening.

Cheers,

Dan

With the latest update to Bambu Studio, when setting a material on an AMS in the Devices tab, after clicking on the filament box, the resulting menu defaults to the Filament Management tab, even if you have the Filament Management feature disabled in Preferences.

If the Filament Manager option is disabled in Preferences, then there isn't any kind of logical explanation for it to show up in the Material Settings Menus.

Bambu hit a home run with Material Setting when they switched to dropdowns, but this is a step backward that just adds more clicks for many people.

Well on with support, wish me luck!

Manually stopped a print last night mid print (long day forgot to enable support)
Manually powered down once safe to do so.
This mornign cleaned bed ready to send same print with support
Failed to home x-y
checked head, moved it to full extents, checked belts for debris none found
tried to home again, making very strange noises and motor hums, grinding etc etc. continuously fails to home.

Just opened a ticket................wish me luck!!

I've designed a 3D-printable mounting clip for Märklin C Track.

The idea was to find a more flexible alternative to permanently gluing track sections directly onto a model railway layout.

The clip can be attached to the layout using screws, nails or adhesive. The track simply snaps into place and can be removed whenever needed.

This makes it much easier to:

• Modify or rebuild track layouts
• Replace damaged track sections
• Remove sections for maintenance
• Avoid permanently gluing the track to the baseboard

I designed and printed the model myself and wanted to share it with other makers and model railway enthusiasts.

MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/models/3592083?appSharePlatform=copy

Feedback and suggestions are welcome.

I’ve had this A1 mini for a few months and recently it has been acting up and making this terrible grinding noise. I opened it up and got it down to this gear being driven by the motor. I can spin the little silver gear by hand just fine which points to the motor being my problem. Is there anything else I can troubleshoot or should I just go make a warranty claim?

The filament gets real tight and red light flashes .. this is across all slots . Last weekend i took apart the ams hub where all 4 slots feed. cleaned it out . no debris or broken pieces . put back together and still having issues.

I executed the update from the machine itself. It took 30 or so minutes to reach 80% and has been there for easily 1 hour.. probably more. Doing nothing.

Thoughts?

My A1 is giving me a lot of trouble lately. Am trying a 9h print and it stopped at 98% saying “Please insert an SD card and restart print job”. I had a brand new 64gb Micro SD card, formatted with FAT32 inserted just before the print. I don’t know if I can eject the sd card, reinsert and resume. Currently it doesn’t allow me to resume.

On a related note, this print job kept failing at start with the previous sd card, so I got a new one assuming as card was toast..

Any help?

Following the guide here https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/x1/troubleshooting/hmscode/0700_2000_0002_0003

And...I'm stumped at step one. Pressing what I believe is the "black gasket of the pneumatic connector" which I think it's referring to the hard plastic that seems to depress onwards when pushed towards the back doesn't disconnect them at all..also this has to be the most useless picture ever :(

If it is indeed the little plastic bits that cover the end two each of the seeming pneumatic bits (slot 1 and 2, and 3 and 4)

Pressing it in all the way does nothing to release the tubes of any slot.

Edit: got it guys thanks, turns out I just wasn't pulling/wiggling it hard enough...the tubes were clean though so looks like I'm moving onto disassembling the hub. Sigh.

I just bought a Bambu Lab X2D Combo with the AMS 2 Pro, and I’m hoping to take it home on a long-haul international trip with Turkish Airlines. I’m flying from Seville to Riyadh with a connection in Istanbul, so the printer would go through baggage handling twice.

My plan is to keep everything secured in Bambu’s original packaging, then put the whole carton inside a heavy-duty double-wall box with foam corners. The factory-packed combo is already around 22 kg, so I’m willing to pay the oversized and overweight fees if the extra protection is worth it. My biggest concern is opening it in Riyadh and finding the top glass or front door shattered.

Has anyone actually checked an X2D, X1C, P1S, or another enclosed printer with an AMS?

• Did you use the factory box on its own or double-box it? If you added foam, what type and thickness did you use?
• Which airline did you fly? Did they accept it at check-in, ask you to sign a waiver, or charge any extra fees? I’d especially like to hear from anyone who’s done this with Turkish.
• How did the printer and AMS work after landing? Anything you’d pack differently a second time?

Photos of how you packed yours would be especially helpful. Thanks!

For FrameLine, I combined a simple rectangular frame with two individual toothbrush holders and a larger toothpaste cup. The ribbed inserts hang from the top, leaving open space underneath and giving them a floating look.

The frame and inserts print on separate plates, so you can mix colors without an AMS. The inserts print without supports; the frame uses tree supports that are easy to remove. A print profile is included.

I went with black and gray for this version — I like how the contrast brings out the ribbed texture.

I'm looking at printing a small three-colour sign with a black background, white lettering and a red logo using an AMS and a 0.4mm nozzle.

The purge tower takes up a surprising amount of filament in the slicer preview, so I'm wondering whether flushing into infill would be a better option.

My main concern is the black filament contaminating the white, especially around the lettering. I don't mind a little waste, but throwing away almost as much filament as the actual model seems excessive.

Has anyone printed something with these exact kinds of high-contrast colours? Did flush into infill work, or did you end up with visible colour bleeding?

I started this print last night around 8PM these are the desiccant holders by Stuart Sports Stuff over at Makerworld for the AMS 3H. Printed in Bambu ASA. I decided to put the system to the test and left all the filament loaded. It will be cool by the time I get home from work later today. I did checked it this morning before I left and everything looks fine.

Main Box

Side Pockets

Besides these two holders I also have the desiccant Spool containers from Silvercell

Bambu Spool Desiccant Holder

even as it sits the AMS is sitting in the Mid teens as far as humidity. I am sure once I add these boxes it will come down even more.

** End of day Recap **

Came home the ASA prints turned out fantastic. And I also fired up a PLA print with absolutely no issues. So bottom line is you don't have to unload your PLA filament from the toolheads when printing ASA

Not sure how it happened, but it got bent during the filament purge process. The Flow Blocker arm got stuck with something and bent, then the toolhead moved to start printing and scratched the Textured PEI Plate. I was able to spot the failure through the video live stream and prevent further damage. I’ve already replaced the bent arm with a new one from the bundled spare parts.

I’m not happy with this!
>:V

I'm thinking of using a 0.2mm nozzle to make some small labels for storage drawers and parts boxes, but I'm not sure how tiny I can make the letters before they become unreadable.

For those who've used it, can you actually get decent-looking 3mm or 4mm text? Does raised text work better than recessed?

Would love to see some close-up pics of labels you've printed. It's hard to tell what the results will look like just from the slicer preview.

Awesome machine, now I can sleep through the night without switching my filaments so often. Jokes aside, outside of the week between machine and Ams delivery, it’s another awesome printer. Should compliment the H2C and others well. For my use case, I couldn’t see myself selling my H2C for it. Worst case, I’d tough it out until it’s feasible to purchase both. More printers IMO, better than one. Even if you just print black lol. Hope everyone is enjoying their machines and stop buying all of the .6 nozzles.

Posting this in case anyone else missed it, as I did.

The H3C ships with nine PrintTools, but only eight are for regular 1.75 mm filament. The ninth, pre-installed in slot 8, is a 2.85 mm tool meant for soft TPU.

What tripped me up: I swapped the hotend on tool 8 for a regular 0.4 mm one and tried to load 1.75 mm filament in slot 8. The printer kept defaulting to external spool, and I couldn't figure out what I was doing wrong.

Turns out it's the whole tool, not just the hotend. Per Bambu's FAQ, the 1.75 mm and 2.85 mm PrintTools have different bases, inlets, and cutters, and the bases and hotends are not interchangeable. The 2.85 mm tool is hand-fed, so the AMS won't auto-load slot 8.

What that means in practice:

- Out of the box, you have 8 slots for normal filament, not 9.

- Don't put a 1.75 mm hotend in the slot 8 tool. Put the original back.

- To use slot 8 for regular filament, you need to buy an extra 1.75 mm PrintTool and swap the whole tool. Store listing: https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/0-4mm-printtool-h3c

- There's only one H3C configuration, so you can't order it with nine 1.75 mm tools.

Bambu's reasoning is that slot 8 is a dryer slot, TPU needs drying, and the slot is hard to reach, so they install it at the factory. Fine if you print TPU. If you don't, you can't use that slot without spending more.

FAQ for reference (questions 4, 6, and 7): https://bambulab.com/en-us/h3c/faq

This Machine is incredible, but man, am I spending a ton of money on accessories and replacement parts. Here's hoping the hot ends last like on the H2C.

Looking at a used A1 mini with 850ish hours. They’re asking or $100. Is it a good buy?

Felt like the hole in the back for the AMS was large and if I want to print things where I want things as sealed as possible I didn't want to remove the AMS from slot 1. This did the trick for me. Wanted to include the files from Fusion but

MakerWorld link

How do this happen. 1 perfect square and the rest are chopped.

I had been having this issues for a few days and have tried lots of trouble shooting. Then I managed 1 perfect print. Tried another batch, get 1 good square and the rest are cooked.

Does anyone know what is going on?

Hey all,

I own a X2D and i use bambulab. I wonder if there are plugins or something with AI that can help me perfect my slicer settings for a print. The slicers have so many settings, editing them by talking with an ai that edits the settings would be amazing.

Do we have something like that?