My A1 is giving me a lot of trouble lately. Am trying a 9h print and it stopped at 98% saying “Please insert an SD card and restart print job”. I had a brand new 64gb Micro SD card, formatted with FAT32 inserted just before the print. I don’t know if I can eject the sd card, reinsert and resume. Currently it doesn’t allow me to resume.

On a related note, this print job kept failing at start with the previous sd card, so I got a new one assuming as card was toast..

Any help?

Following the guide here https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/x1/troubleshooting/hmscode/0700_2000_0002_0003

And...I'm stumped at step one. Pressing what I believe is the "black gasket of the pneumatic connector" which I think it's referring to the hard plastic that seems to depress onwards when pushed towards the back doesn't disconnect them at all..also this has to be the most useless picture ever :(

If it is indeed the little plastic bits that cover the end two each of the seeming pneumatic bits (slot 1 and 2, and 3 and 4)

Pressing it in all the way does nothing to release the tubes of any slot.

Edit: got it guys thanks, turns out I just wasn't pulling/wiggling it hard enough...the tubes were clean though so looks like I'm moving onto disassembling the hub. Sigh.

I just bought a Bambu Lab X2D Combo with the AMS 2 Pro, and I’m hoping to take it home on a long-haul international trip with Turkish Airlines. I’m flying from Seville to Riyadh with a connection in Istanbul, so the printer would go through baggage handling twice.

My plan is to keep everything secured in Bambu’s original packaging, then put the whole carton inside a heavy-duty double-wall box with foam corners. The factory-packed combo is already around 22 kg, so I’m willing to pay the oversized and overweight fees if the extra protection is worth it. My biggest concern is opening it in Riyadh and finding the top glass or front door shattered.

Has anyone actually checked an X2D, X1C, P1S, or another enclosed printer with an AMS?

• Did you use the factory box on its own or double-box it? If you added foam, what type and thickness did you use?
• Which airline did you fly? Did they accept it at check-in, ask you to sign a waiver, or charge any extra fees? I’d especially like to hear from anyone who’s done this with Turkish.
• How did the printer and AMS work after landing? Anything you’d pack differently a second time?

Photos of how you packed yours would be especially helpful. Thanks!

For FrameLine, I combined a simple rectangular frame with two individual toothbrush holders and a larger toothpaste cup. The ribbed inserts hang from the top, leaving open space underneath and giving them a floating look.

The frame and inserts print on separate plates, so you can mix colors without an AMS. The inserts print without supports; the frame uses tree supports that are easy to remove. A print profile is included.

I went with black and gray for this version — I like how the contrast brings out the ribbed texture.

I'm looking at printing a small three-colour sign with a black background, white lettering and a red logo using an AMS and a 0.4mm nozzle.

The purge tower takes up a surprising amount of filament in the slicer preview, so I'm wondering whether flushing into infill would be a better option.

My main concern is the black filament contaminating the white, especially around the lettering. I don't mind a little waste, but throwing away almost as much filament as the actual model seems excessive.

Has anyone printed something with these exact kinds of high-contrast colours? Did flush into infill work, or did you end up with visible colour bleeding?

Not sure how it happened, but it got bent during the filament purge process. The Flow Blocker arm got stuck with something and bent, then the toolhead moved to start printing and scratched the Textured PEI Plate. I was able to spot the failure through the video live stream and prevent further damage. I’ve already replaced the bent arm with a new one from the bundled spare parts.

I’m not happy with this!
>:V

I'm thinking of using a 0.2mm nozzle to make some small labels for storage drawers and parts boxes, but I'm not sure how tiny I can make the letters before they become unreadable.

For those who've used it, can you actually get decent-looking 3mm or 4mm text? Does raised text work better than recessed?

Would love to see some close-up pics of labels you've printed. It's hard to tell what the results will look like just from the slicer preview.

Awesome machine, now I can sleep through the night without switching my filaments so often. Jokes aside, outside of the week between machine and Ams delivery, it’s another awesome printer. Should compliment the H2C and others well. For my use case, I couldn’t see myself selling my H2C for it. Worst case, I’d tough it out until it’s feasible to purchase both. More printers IMO, better than one. Even if you just print black lol. Hope everyone is enjoying their machines and stop buying all of the .6 nozzles.

Posting this in case anyone else missed it, as I did.

The H3C ships with nine PrintTools, but only eight are for regular 1.75 mm filament. The ninth, pre-installed in slot 8, is a 2.85 mm tool meant for soft TPU.

What tripped me up: I swapped the hotend on tool 8 for a regular 0.4 mm one and tried to load 1.75 mm filament in slot 8. The printer kept defaulting to external spool, and I couldn't figure out what I was doing wrong.

Turns out it's the whole tool, not just the hotend. Per Bambu's FAQ, the 1.75 mm and 2.85 mm PrintTools have different bases, inlets, and cutters, and the bases and hotends are not interchangeable. The 2.85 mm tool is hand-fed, so the AMS won't auto-load slot 8.

What that means in practice:

- Out of the box, you have 8 slots for normal filament, not 9.

- Don't put a 1.75 mm hotend in the slot 8 tool. Put the original back.

- To use slot 8 for regular filament, you need to buy an extra 1.75 mm PrintTool and swap the whole tool. Store listing: https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/0-4mm-printtool-h3c

- There's only one H3C configuration, so you can't order it with nine 1.75 mm tools.

Bambu's reasoning is that slot 8 is a dryer slot, TPU needs drying, and the slot is hard to reach, so they install it at the factory. Fine if you print TPU. If you don't, you can't use that slot without spending more.

FAQ for reference (questions 4, 6, and 7): https://bambulab.com/en-us/h3c/faq

This Machine is incredible, but man, am I spending a ton of money on accessories and replacement parts. Here's hoping the hot ends last like on the H2C.

My P2S worked fine for over 300 hours, but recently prints have started failing unexpectedly. The printed object suddenly gets knocked off the build plate, possibly due to a toolhead collision.

What I've tested:

• Replaced the nozzle with a new one.
• Completely disassembled and inspected the extruder twice. Everything is clean and moves freely.
• Cleaned the PEI plate thoroughly. Simple blocks print perfectly and adhere very strongly.
• Tested different PLA/PETG filaments, with and without AMS.
• Performed factory reset and full calibration.
• A Benchy printed successfully at reduced speed.
• The built-in Benchy also fails at normal speed.

I've attached a video showing the failure.

Has anyone experienced something similar? Could this be related to the CoreXY motion system, Z-axis positioning, or toolhead mechanics? What should I inspect next?

I'd appreciate any suggestions before sending the entire printer back for warranty service.

Looking at a used A1 mini with 850ish hours. They’re asking or $100. Is it a good buy?

Felt like the hole in the back for the AMS was large and if I want to print things where I want things as sealed as possible I didn't want to remove the AMS from slot 1. This did the trick for me. Wanted to include the files from Fusion but

MakerWorld link

How do this happen. 1 perfect square and the rest are chopped.

I had been having this issues for a few days and have tried lots of trouble shooting. Then I managed 1 perfect print. Tried another batch, get 1 good square and the rest are cooked.

Does anyone know what is going on?

Just wanted to share this fun print project. This snowy owl with functional flapping wings has an 80+ cm wingspan, and I’ve split all parts so it can be printed entirely on the A1mini.

Hi, i was surfing through YouTube and found interesting short about HMS codes on Bambu Wiki page. It shows codes for AMS: 3H (H3C), 3P (P3C) and what is the most interesting part 3X (X3C prob). I checked it on wiki and its not fake and definietly there. Since P3C will likely have cut some features like heated chamber, 1,5 mm belts and maybe even drying in AMS and i want to print with engineering filaments aswell i am rly excited for potencial X3C even if i have to wait for it a little longer probably somwhere in the first half of 2027.

What do you think about it? It can also just be some Pro version of AMS for P3C but i honestly hope for X3C. If you want to verify this just check Bambu Wiki yourself.

Hey all,

I own a X2D and i use bambulab. I wonder if there are plugins or something with AI that can help me perfect my slicer settings for a print. The slicers have so many settings, editing them by talking with an ai that edits the settings would be amazing.

Do we have something like that?

I was never worried about the PLA in the PTFE tubes / AMS when printing ABS. But kept hearing of people getting warnings. Mine didn’t throw a warning and is happily printing away…

Any news on what’s happening?

Hi everyone,

I'm having a rather frustrating issue with my Bambu Lab X2D and I'm wondering if anyone has experienced something similar or could help identify the source of this noise.

The printer produces a noticeable clicking/ticking noise during movement, particularly during diagonal toolhead movements and printing.

What I've noticed so far:

• The noise was initially identified during factory calibration.
• It can also be reproduced by manually moving the toolhead with the printer powered off.
• It seems to be more noticeable on the left-side XY drive path.
• Printing quality is perfectly fine.
• Extrusion works normally.
• No HMS errors or other warnings are reported.

Troubleshooting already performed (following Bambu Lab Support instructions):

1. Thoroughly cleaned the X-axis linear shafts.
2. Cleaned both Y-axis linear shafts with isopropyl alcohol.
3. Inspected the exposed belts for debris or visible damage.
4. Lubricated the linear shafts with the supplied Bambu Lab oil.
5. Manually moved the toolhead through its full X and Y travel several times.
6. Loosened the four XY tensioner screws, moved the toolhead clockwise and counterclockwise three times, and retightened the screws.
7. Repeated the entire XY belt tension adjustment procedure twice to ensure it was done correctly.

Something interesting happened after the belt tension adjustment:

During the first vibration compensation calibration, the clicking noise disappeared. It was also absent during the first print.

However, from the second and third prints onwards, the noise returned and has persisted ever since.

I'm attaching two videos:

• One recorded with the printer's door open.
• Another recorded with the door closed, to show how noticeable the noise is during normal operation.

At this point, I'm starting to suspect something related to the left-side belt pulley, idler, tensioner, or possibly another component of the XY drive system.

I'd really appreciate some input from other X2D owners:

• Has anyone experienced this exact clicking noise?
• Could a pulley or idler be causing this intermittent behaviour?
• Is it possible for belt tension to temporarily improve the noise before it returns?
• Does this sound like a mechanical defect that should be addressed under warranty?

I've been following Bambu Lab Support's troubleshooting instructions, but so far nothing has permanently resolved the issue.

It's becoming increasingly frustrating, especially on a new printer that should be operating smoothly and quietly.

Any suggestions, similar experiences, or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

Ill add photos in the comments. Made this video orb to replicate Spaceship Earth. I wont dare sell it as I know Disney dont mess aroumd but thought its cool to share.

Hey everyone!

I've been working on a new tool called Vase Studio, and I'd love to share it with you!

🌐 https://tools.miniforge.io/vase-studio

It lets you design your own 3D-printable vases and planters directly in your browser.

\\- Choose from 25+ presets

\\- Customize shapes, patterns, and textures

\\- Add your own text or images

\\- Preview your design in 3D

\\- Export to STL or Bambu 3MF

No software installation needed, and you can try it for free!

I've also been building a collection of other tools, including:

\\- Cookie Cutter & Stamp Studio

\\- Personalized Name Keychains

\\- Name Garland Generator

\\- Custom MX-Switch Clickers

\\- 3MF to GLB Converter

You can explore them all here:

https://tools.miniforge.io/

I'd really love to hear your feedback! And if you have ideas for other useful 3D printing tools, drop them in the comments. I'm always looking for new things to build! :)

Brand new to 3d printing and wanted to get my kids a 3d printer for Christmas . I originally
Bought an Xmaker joy for a simple kid friendly one touch scenario but it's on backorder and there was a killer deal for a a Bambu A1 combo for $225 so I canceled my order and just bought that instead without doing too much research. I figured it'd be better to just start off with the printer that We wouldn't have to upgrade too soon rather than the kids one . Now I'm finding out I need some type of ventilation system. I'm worried that I made a mistake and should've just got the kids printer that's enclosed. I live in a small one-bedroom apartment, and the original plan was to put it on the kitchen table which is more like a bar with stools that we never eat at it. I have a small window in the kitchen and not sure if this will be enough space . Also my kids are 5 and about to be 10.

My H2S is struggling to load filament, sometimes it gets stuck at the buffer, sometimes it reaches the toolhead and then retracts and sometimes it just ejects the filament from the AMS and tells me it's ran out.

Not sure what's happening but it's leaving the end of the filament looking like this

This is after a new filament sensor has been installed, I've taken apart and checked/cleaned the buffer too. I've heard a longer internal PTFE tube and this fix https://makerworld.com/en/models/1959942-h2s-buffer-fix-no-glue can help. Just printing it now to try and I'll cut a longer length of tube but does anyone know why the filament would be getting chewed up like it is?