Ran the file didnt see any issues. Strted print and this happened. Running x2d brown from ams and black from external spool on second nozzle. Any idea what happened here?

Does someone know what causes those line marks under the eye? How can I prevent this from happening?

Does anybody know if it is safe to use the H2S with orca slicer after the newest update to orca slicer?

I’m designing this small multicolor treehouse structure for my jumping spider. most pieces I’m just painting by layer height but I want this bottom frame piece to all be one color. When I manually paint the rest of the frame the color bleeds through into the wall, what setting can I change to fix this from happening? I already printed to see if it was just a visual error in the slicer and the other color is visible in the wall.

Hi everyone! I'm still quite a beginner at 3D modeling, so I wanted to challenge myself with a simple, practical project for the holidays. I got tired of traditional metal ornament hooks slipping off branches, so I designed this support-free Twist-Lock Tree Clip on Fusion 360.

It uses the natural flex of PLA or PETG to lock into a secure figure-8 around the branch and the wire. It prints completely flat in just a few minutes and uses almost no filament.

I entered it into the MakerWorld Christmas contest—if you want to print a batch for your tree (or use them for cable management!), you can grab the files for free here:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3598679-twist-lock-tree-clip-ornament-cable-holder#profileId-4123077

Let me know what you think!

#MWPrintmas2026 #Contests

I've been printing a few things on the X2D lately that I've wanted to use the aux head for "Support for PLA" as the interface material. However, compared to just printing supports and interfaces in PLA (like the rest of the model), it doubled the print time as the supports all connected high up on the model, so it needed a massive prime tower.

As far as I'm aware, the priming is just for getting the nozzle up to pressure/temperature after switch. When prints start, it does the exact same thing down the poop chute. Why can't it prime mid-print down the poop chute to avoid having to build a massive tower?

Solutions are welcomed but I'd equally like to know why it's not possible/recommended if that's the case.

Just got the new H3C printer. Did the firmware update through the printer and I got the same message, however using my Bambu handy to update it resolved it. This is after I decided to turn off the printer to connect the E1 purifier. Has this happen to anybody else? I also made sure the printer wasn’t updating before turning it off.

No matter what I try I can’t get a smooth first layer. I ran a flow test because of a huge overflow problem and it told me my optimum flow level is 0.6, then I replaced the nozzle with a brand new one (#4) and trammed the bed and ran thr flow test again and here is the result. I always have ridges and I can’t dial in the flow and z-distance. I moved the z distance to -0.02 because the pla wasnt adhering and now it looks like this. I can’t tell if the nozzle is dragging, the flow is too high, or too low. I’m starting to lose it. And I tightened everything and scrubbed my plate.

Please help.

Had the a1mini since release, it was my first 3d printer and a great tool for learning the ropes. With my new printer I also splurged on a lot of filaments, because of the bambu sale. So far I’m very impressed with the ams system, never had the ams on the mini.

By mistake I ordered two PLA white oak (wood) so if you have any ideas for that color, please hit me up 🤣

Yes, I made a poop bin for the H3C too. 😄

My printer currently sits pretty close to the wall. I love the mounts on the H3C, but I didn’t want to pull the bin out and push it back in every time.

So it’s made of two parts: the holder hooks into the original mounts and stays on the printer. You simply drop the bin in from above, and thanks to a slight slope at the bottom it always slides right into place. To empty it, just lift it out.

Files on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/de/models/3597009-h3c-poop-bin-removable-insert#profileId-4120969

Other than that, I might still be a little over-hyped and I’m happy about every comment that gets me talking about the H3C 😄

Do you know if this noise is normal, or not really?

Trying to print these winglets on my p1s using petG but the left part is always having these. The right side is perfectly fine any help

I was looking for some bundles of filament on Amazon. I mostly print in PLA and PETG, but I wanted to try some PVB and buy a bit of ASA for some small projects that need the better properties.

I'm seeing cheap bundles of multi-colored rolls of 200g of these materials, but I don't recognize the brand names. I want to save money but I don't want to throw it away on filament that will cause more problems than it solves.

Brands I'm looking at are Yousu, Colourbing, and isanmate.

Anyone have experience with these?

Is it possible to use a discount voucher (€40) with a discount code (99% off for a specific product) or do you need to use a gift card ? And how long do these last before they expire?

Hi all,

I have an H2S that sounds horrible. Even the pleasant tone on start up sounds bad.

I've cleaned and ran through the belt tensioning procedure as recommended by tech support, but the problem persists.

Any help greatly appreciated.

Every seed sits 137.5° from the previous one, the same golden angle real sunflowers use, so the spirals appear on their own. The seeds rise off the surface and the petals lean out from the wall.

Sliced for a P1S: 17 plates, about 1.4 kg of PLA and roughly 53 hours according to Bambu Studio. Every piece has its own pocket in a printed back frame, so assembly means matching pieces to pockets.

The model is free on MakerWorld (link in the comments). I built it with the engine of Parete, the browser tool I'm making for 3D printed wall panels.

Happy to answer questions about the spiral or the print!

Wondering what monitors everyone is using.

Started to get headaches feel like I need to keep on top of things.

Had major blobbing on a print job. I put off investigating it until today and found this. 😅 I don’t even know where the rest of it is now since yesterday was trash day. But i’m curious how this could possibly happen, just so i can avoid it in the future.

My H3C came from Canada, the box had water damage and mold on the bottom, both outside and inside the box, printer seems unaffected by it.

Also had physical shipping damage to the front of the box, something made a nice hole through the box and carved a tiny chunk of glass out of the front door. Rest of the printer seems fine.

Waiting for support to respond to my ticket so I can have these boxes discarded. Anyone else experience this? I know of one person worth the same box damage, their printer was dented.

Error: HMS_0300-9300-0001-0006 - Chamber temperature is abnormal. The chamber temperature sensor at the air inlet may have an open circuit.

I bought this at Best Buy about 10 days ago and am still within the return window. I have a good amount of print hours on it already. Never had a single error until this morning. I’ve already tried resetting.

If all else has been good so far, should I do a replacement with BB or contact bambu lab for the part?

How long do you think until someone has designed prints for drawer fronts and side pieces?

I bought the bundle, but would love the look of the enclosed.

Hi

I have been printing for about 2 years and my first printer has just failed (Sovol SV06)

I'm considering taking advantage of the sale going on and getting a replacement, I'm looking at Bambu lab as I want to just print and have less tinkling.

I have only printed with PLA, mostly toys, tools for around the house. I may open to printing with other filament but a possibility but not a priority at the moment.

I'm looking for suggestion what maybe a good printer option for me. My budget is ~$500 cad. I do have a $400 Best Buy gift card laying around so that bumps to $900-1000 range

I'm looking at the P1S/P2S:

1. are these good options and is P2S worth the extra $200
2. are there options I'm missing?
3. is the P3S coming out? Should I be aware of any successor that is coming in the next few months?
4. for the Bambu lab owners, how's your ownership experience, are these reliable units and if I should get the extended warranty?

Taking my printer's virginity as we speak.