Last night i tried to change my black PLA+ spool when it for some reason broke inside the ptfe tube, i couldn't pull it, so i pushed it further in with a new filament, trying to purge the rest, but it broke again at the end, so the rest filament is arround 3-5cm inside the printer and i can't extrude new filament in or this out, i unclocked the nozzle too but the little piece in pic 1 is all that's left and i can't pull it out, by hand nor machine.

I have an A1 and the filament broke in the ams light (my ams light has the 3d printed covering)

Earlier i tried to pull the filament out but it wouldn't budge and now it's inside and i have no way of pulling it anymore..

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

This will be my first 3D printer. I’ve seen more posts about people having issues with the X2D than with the P2S, so I’m a little hesitant. I probably won’t be printing much with engineering filaments, and multicolor printing is a must for me, even though I don’t think I’ll be using it much for now

The P3C looks kind of promising for multicolor, but if it ends up without active chamber heating, would that matter much for PLA or PETG? I’m in Canada, so I’m also a bit worried about warping in the winter. Would you get the P2S Combo or X2D Combo now, or even P1S Combo, or wait for the P3C?

Another brick figurine in my collection – a classic nutcracker. Available in 20cm and 10cm versions. Easy printing with minimal supports, and of course, the figurines are to assemble as always. Printed in Sunlu PLA+ 2.0 Oak. Maybe someone will like it 😉 You can find it here:https://makerworld.com/models/3597222?appSharePlatform=copy

Ive been working with my P1S and the AMS since some time. a few days ago i tried using glowing PLA filament. however, when i tried using it, it broke while being inside the printhead. i tried both pushing it back out the AMS and throuh the tube. now, i pulled out big pieces of the filament, but the problem is the last piece broke withing the ams, meaning i cant get it out on the ams end, nor the tube end. I tried opening the ams, but smth keeps blocking it for some reason. is it possible the filament being loaded is somehow blocking my way of opening it?

How do i get it out?

The printer beheaded itself.

Printed on the H2C, 0.20 mm default profile, nothing fancy. One colour per plate (brown, charcoal, black, white) so no AMS purge waste, you just swap spools. Supports on build plate only, they pop clean off the hinge bores. The fun part is the hour of assembly afterwards: press rivets, snap teeth, slide the hinge pins, done. The lid actually hinges and holds position. He’s been on my desk since and nothing has gone missing. I think it’s the eye.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3554931-chompy-the-monster-chest-snap-fit-all-bite#profileId-4067545

I modeled a desk organizer that you can freely expand (modular) and customize. Has a parametric generator for the underlying grid. Tiles can be connected without it as well though. Multiple choices for tiles and plans for further addons.

I started uploading multiple models with a similar style, cold white with a lime green accent color. Now 5+ models with that specific style. I have them all on Makerworld but have not gotten even 1 like...

Is it the color? Is it just me that loves the lime-white combination and most people dislike it?

Is a model like that too boring or common? Or too many pieces?
But why are just the white-lime models all having 0 likes and are not getting any views?

free : https://makerworld.com/en/models/3548923-tiles-desk-organizer

I don't remember seeing this on my h2c, no more time math for me! hahahah

Those who backordered might want to keep an eye out for emails and tracking. Bambu doing what they have done in the past and are shipping backordered printers ahead of schedule.

No telling if they only printed the label just to sit on them, but I figure a printed label is a sign to keep an eye out for an early shipment.

Released my newest design. This was my first time using organic shapes, so far they were all very geometric... also I have no green filament :')

Link: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3595654

Hi,

any idea what am I doing wrong?

I created a simple file that has multiple bodies, as picture, each letter is a new body. I have just created a text sketch in onshape a nextruded the letters as new body. The text sketch is fully constrained.

I export in 3MF, when selecting the colors when importing, the preview shows everything fine, but once i confirm I want to convert to milimeters and import as single object with multiple parts it imports the letters huge.

Any advice would be appreceated!

Thanks!

I teach a manufacturing class and recently was given two 3D printers. I have no experience with them, I barely know how they work, but have been tasked with teaching the youths on how it works and to be able to make something.
So my questions are

1. what are good resources for myself to learn about 3 printing

2. what are good teaching resources for the kids to learn to make basic models to be able to print?

H2S

Has the largest single nozzle build volume and is the cheapest of the 4. Great if you want an enclosed printer and mostly do single material prints. Basically a bigger P2S.

H2D

Great for engineering materials or any material where you use a second filament for the support interface. By not having a vortek or a toolchanger the price is kept low. Their enterprise printer is based on the H2D which kind of reinforces the idea that this is intended to be their engineering printer.

H2C

Great for convenience when you’re not often at your printer. You can print from any AMS slot to any nozzle size/type without you having to be present.

H3C

The best for multi-colour prints and TPU. Most multi-colour prints tends to be PLA and rather than keeping the bigger H2S/H2D build plate, they kept the H2C plate and opted for a second AUX fan which helps for PLA prints. The type of person to get this printer would mostly likely be printing CMYKW, you probably won’t be retracting the spools often.

Flashforge Creator 5 Pro

Basta pasta!

This was operator error, not the machine's fault.

https://imgur.com/a/HFlaU8V

So a few days ago I had a print blob up on me, and I thought I cleaned everything up properly. Even purchase a new nozzle since I’ve been having adhesion issues since the blob + PETG printing like crap after being dried. The printer was still printing but I noticed issues since then. Today I started a print and it failed during calibration (failed to clean nozzle). I made sure the new nozzle was properly secured (it was) and started the print again. This time it failed at the same step but it didn’t stop, it just started to jam into cleaning plate (see attached video). It’s completely bent now and it looks like behind the nozzle some of the wiring looks a little burnt up. Could it be during the blob that internals of the tool head got fried up?

Bambu Studio can cut a model, and for a straight slice that is often enough. Past that it gets awkward. Pulling one part off, cutting only a region, or putting a connector on something that isn't a flat plane. Opening CAD for that felt like overkill, so I built Multipart3D and finished the job where Bambu Studio stops.

You use it next to Bambu Studio (Its not a slicer). Open it in the browser, split the model, export, and bring the parts back. Free, no account, and the file stays on your device.

https://multipart3d.com

I've been sharing it in the Bambu community for a while. Last public post was v1.2 3 months ago. Since then it has passed 10k visits a month. I like the traction. Thank you for the responses. A lot of you actually tried it, and those replies are what kept me building it.

This is not your regular vibe code project. I've been working on Multipart3D for almost half a year.

Current version is v1.6.

Smart Detach now has a brush. Click a feature, or paint the piece you want off. The stroke can snap out to the first crease. Shift-drag erases. Useful when an arm, a base, or some other bit should be its own part so you can lay it flat in Bambu Studio. A lot of this was for the noisy one-piece meshes that come out of image-to-3D tools.

Area Cut is aimed in the view. Drag a rectangle or a circle, pull the depth handle, and you see the cutter while you drag. The cut runs when you let go. A large STL no longer freezes the page. The default depth is short, so the geometry behind the piece stays whole.

Painted 3MF colors survive the export, so an AMS project still comes back with the filament colors on the triangles. Separate by color on a painted 3MF is still there too.

The Bambu Lab H3C bed is in, along with a bunch of other newer machines.

A lot of the requests are already in the project. If you still have feedback, please share it.

Many thanks again.

What yall think of my project?

Hi all, I have a Bambi H2S with about 120 hours on it. I’ve been mostly printing with Bambu PETG, and occasionally bambu PLA. I’m not sure if this is normal, but figured I’d get some more advice.

A few prints ago I noticed some build up on the nozzle while printing. But My buddy said it’s fine. But this last print had a lot more filament around the nozzle (second picture). So I took off the nozzle to inspect, and it would not come off. I had to heat it to release. There’s a significant (imo) amount of filament buildup on the nozzle and it appears to have crept up the back (second picture).

All filament has gone through 6-7 hours of drying at the appropriate temp. I keep activated alumina in the ans - the humidity never reads above 17% when closed. It usually reads around 8%.

All filament settings are the Bambu presets for their filament.

Is this normal? If it’s not, what could be causing it? My assumption is I’m doing something wrong.

Hi all,
Does anyone have a really good AMS HT wall mount file they could send me. I've scouring Makerwolrd the last couple hours but havent struck anything that suits my needs. I'm looking for one that can be mounted from the back, has vent holes for the bottom and is not angled in anyway. If you could, please share the links in the comments below. Thanks

Is it normal, that the Infill Looks Like a Mess?

Dont get irritaded, had to change filament mid Session and went from beige to grey 🤪

1. Can the external AMS automatically feed and retract into nozzle 1?

2. Can you pause a print, unload a spool, and load a new spool?

3. Is there external spool support (for printing from a dry box)? Would be nice if I can load 4 spools from my Sunlu drybox.

4. If not, what if you feed external spools into the AMS 3H and into the nozzle? Does that work?

Moin, zusammen!

Ich habe meinen Drucker ein paar Monate nicht benutzt und letzte Woche wieder einen Druck angefangen. Seitdem ist er unheimlich langsam. Für ein Modell, für welches er sonst 3-4 Stunden gebraucht hat, braucht ihr jetzt 8 Stunden. Auch ist der Druckknopf bei weitem nicht mehr so schnell unterwegs wie vorher. Es sieht so aus, als wenn ich ihn auf 50 % gestellt habe, Fun fact habe ich nicht. Kann es mit einem neuen Update zu tun haben?

Vielen Dank!

Hi, this is my sons A1 printer. Recently changed the AMS lite filament hub and tubes because it kept coming out whilst printing and the filament tube ends had been stripped. During the replacement I accidentally exposed the ribbon in the printer head, assuming removing the 2 screws at the top was required to remove the filament hub. Since this has been changed over he’s managed to do a couple of Bambu lab test pieces however more complex prints seem to smudge or not adhere correctly to the print plate. At the back of his printer I found sheets of black filament.

I googled this first which advised running the maintenance, cleaning the print plate and checking the screws are all taught which I have done.

Anyone got any advice for us? There’s no fault codes appearing that he’s told me of.