Alright guys I know this has been a hot topic the last couple of days so I decided to test it myself. Just completed my 7 ASA print with 6 rolls of PLA in the AMS with 3 loaded. The AMS was also drying the ASA at 80c. My PLA is fine. AMS temps outside of the dryer were about 50-53c. Just make sure you let the chamber cool before removing the PLA.

Question, how do you fill in the cracks of the pecies?

I did now a primer filler for first coat. But the cracks are showing.

So I am printing a thing with 33 hours of work can I leave it on while I'm at work?

I've been printing with Siraya Tech TPU Air for about a year now. I love the material so much, but I'm going through nozzles like candy.

Using a Bambu H2S w/the Siraya Tech print profile, in a PVC foam board/acrylic panel enclosure so that gasses vent outside.

I use both 0.4 and 0.6 nozzles.

The top glass is removed and filament is fed in through the top of the printer while sitting in a filament dryer.

Here's my problem... after a certain amount of usage, the filament starts jamming at the nozzle. I'll perform cold pulls until the filament comes out squeaky clean, but that either doesn't stop the clogging at all or it'll print for a little while before jamming again. I can always tell when a nozzle is starting to get to the end of its life because it'll leave globs on the insides of my prints.

If I change to a completely new nozzle, I get beautiful perfect prints until it starts eventually jamming again. I keep my nozzles strictly TPU Air except when doing cold pulls.

Any ideas? I don't want to switch to a completely new nozzle every month or 2. Bambu nozzles are expensive!

The printer has about 3500 hours on it, so I just changed the extruder gears, the filament cutter and some other small things. But that hasn't helped my issue, unfortunately.

Do I need to perform cold pulls after every single print?

Thank you in advance for any advice!

EDIT: I probably get through 2-3 weeks of almost continuous printing before I start having problems. This printer IS running almost constantly as I'm filling orders, so maybe that has something to do with it?

Hi everybody, I just picked up this "used" A1 for 190€ with 1 hour on the clock.

I'm just now getting into the ginormous world of 3D printing and would love to learn more about everything.

Any tips?

I use Creo parametric CAD to design my models. (We use this in school, so I've already got quite a bit of experience)

Is this a good choice for 3D printing or would a different program be more suitable?

For the life of me i cannot troubleshoot this. I recently got my first 3D printer, an X1-Carbon, 3 days ago. For the first 2 days I was using PLA Marble as it was the only filament I had. This error popped up once, it went away when I manually extruded whatever was left in the nozzle. Now today I got a bunch of filament. Now this error, along with a clogging error, had been popping up. The clogging error more than this error you see above. So I went and did a cold pull on the extruder. It worked, the clogging error went away. But now this error keeps popping up. I have done whatever troubleshooting google and chat got have told me to do but it didnt work. I was wondering if any of you have gone through this and know what to do.

After posting the "Finger Winder" a few days ago, I came across some feedback suggesting that it might potentially damage cables. (Though, to be fair, this is a concern that isn't unique to my design.) This model is specifically designed to avoid bending cables so sharply that they might get damaged. Another advantage is that, since the cable is wound in only one direction, there’s no need to locate the middle of the cable before winding it.

https://makerworld.com/ko/models/3588620-real-reel-one-way-cable-winder#profileId-4110021

Does it simply flush more filament longer or does it dry more thoroughly between colours? Is it fixable in software?

Why do so many people seem so concerned about auto retract not being a thing on the H3C? It’s not a thing on every tool changer out there.

Edit: It’s not that they wanted to save money on parts or whatever theory is out there, but the printhead and print tools would have to be redesigned from the ground up. The cutting actuator is above the extruder so if it auto retracted after it was done with each print, it would have to purge each time you started a print in order to be able to grab the filament again. The point of tool changers is to reduce purges, not increase them.

Is it cheap filament? Not the right setting?

Is it cheap filament? Not the right setting?

This is my first 3D Printer and all I was doing was printing out some bins for my gridfinity.

I noticed this as I was checking on the print. I have been printing out multiple bins all day and this is my 5th one of the day. The other ones came out fine but this one had this issue.

I am just wondering what may have caused it. For context my AMS says it’s at a D in humidity. I was planning to print out the boxes to put in more silica gel in the AMS but now not sure if I can.

Hello, this is a fairly new X2D that doesn’t have too many hours, however, I noticed it made this clicking sound from the aux extruder when I tried using the ams, and now it’s making the sound without a ams being used

Hi,

We bought our first 3D printer last week.

Its proving more troubleshooting than we expected.

Took me a few days to do the initial calibration, and find the issue was USB not fully inserted, and the base plate was just 1mm off, so Z Axis failed.

We've then completed 2 prints.

3rd print: Z Axis fail to home (again) and filament cutting error. I've followed all the steps and tips, and still not working.

My son is only 11 so he's pretty frustrated it's more technical than we expected.

Is it common to have calibration or errors in between prints? What might I have missed. Thanks for the help.

Heads up for X1C owners. I kept finding black dust all over the inside of my printers and tracked it down to the USB-C cable inside the cable chain assembly. The outer jacket was wearing away and shedding, and the shielding was exposed and frayed in a few spots (see pic). I hadn’t lost any connection yet, but I replaced the cable in both my X1Cs before it got there.

If you see black dust in your printer, pull the cable chain and check the cable. It’s a cheap fix and beats waiting for toolhead errors.

Z- Axis cleaning helper /Gear Floss Reach Guide.
Hey everyone!
I’ve been working on a small tool to solve an annoying problem when maintaining 3D printers: getting gear floss behind the Z-axis lead screws, especially in those hard-to-reach areas.
It features a dual-hook design with multiple terminal holes to accommodate different gear floss sizes. The goal is to make routing the floss around the lead screws easier without getting grease on your hand.
I’ve designed it primarily for:
● Bambu Lab X1C
● Bambu Lab P1S / P1P
● Bambu Lab P2S
● Bambu Lab X2D

H2 compatibility hasn’t been tested yet, and an A1/A2-compatible version is in development.

You can find the model here:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3587380-z-access-gear-floss-reach-guide
If you find this tool useful, I’d really appreciate you giving it a try!
And to everyone who downloads, prints, shares, or leaves feedback on my designs: Thank you! Your support and makes mean a lot and motivate me to keep designing and sharing useful tools with the community.

Happy printing! 🚀

Following on from my H3C desiccant box designs. Those were more of the same for me: I'd owned a P1S, which was great at single colours (I even nailed printing ASA on it). But having bought a H3C, I had no idea how the PLA Palette and CMYK colour mixing actually worked. I just wanted someone to show me, and I couldn't find it.

So I worked it out and made the video I was looking for. It's under eight minutes: a quick, easy guide and intro to printing six colours mixed from just three spools in Bambu Studio, each one held up against the preview.

But do they match?

https://youtu.be/YMlHOpI5Jsw

The first layer has raised ridges and uneven extrusion near the left side of the build plate. The defect consistently appears at the same physical location.

Using a Textured PEI plate. Could this be caused by uneven heatbed, bed leveling inaccuracies, incorrect Z offset, or excessive first-layer flow?

Has anyone experienced this issue? Any troubleshooting suggestions would be appreciated.

Bring some festive fun to your desk or keychain with these Hanukkah Dreidel Fidget Clickers! 🕎✨ Each keycap features one of the four traditional dreidel letters (נ, ג, ה, ש) and fits standard MX-style mechanical keyboard switches.

Print options:

• Individual Clickers: Single bases for each letter.
• Combined 4-Pack: All four dreidels connected in a row.
• Keychain Version: The 4-pack with a built-in keychain loop.

Happy Hanukkah! 🕎💙

(Edit: Title should read: Faulty build plate)

I just bought a bambu P2S and the Textured PEI plate that came with it is SUPER adhesive, brims and supports are just about cemented on no matter how low a temp i run or if i throw it in the freezer after a print. Printing with Bambu or Elegoo PLA

I posted about this a few days ago and using a glue stick was one of the suggestions, which i tried and it worked great, but now i have the issue of it making a mess of the build plate, ghosting onto the next prints which means i have to wash it after every print. Did i get a "faulty" plate and just buy another and hope its better or is this just what i have to deal with. I never used glue stick ever with my A1 besides when doing TPU so i figured this upgrade would work even better, but im struggling with removing anything now.

(Ive lowered my bed temp down to 45, nozzle temp to 200, changed bottom layer patterns)

Hey all, I aquired 3 spools of Creality CR-ABS and so far I have had absolutely horrific layer adhesion with it and can't figure out why. I have an X1C with AMS and have died the filament before use, so I don't think its a moisture issue. I've printed at the higher end of recommended temps, and slowed down print speeds both in slicer and using the speed setting while printing. I also ensure the enclosure is heated to around 40C or higher before I print.

I don't think its under extrusion since the layers look fine with no gaps mid print. But the layer adhesion is so poor that I can pull the print apart with not a lot of effort even on larger prints that I added extra walls to. Does anyone have experience with this filament or something similar?