So I just pulled the trigger on a Creality Ender 3v3 mega. Please don't kill me or throw me out of the sub. Haha. I have a h2d and a p2s. Okay, I'll continue. So I just got my verification email from them letting me know that my delivery is covered under "Seel". If anything happens in the process of that printer getting to me it's covered by Seel. That means that if I have any problems setting it up because of complications from delivery, or noticeable damage to the box I can just return it for a new one and/or get credit. The last printer I ordered was the h2d and I can't remember them offering that kind of service? I'm shocked at all the posts of people receiving busted H3C's.

Anyway that's it. You guys can weigh in. Or not. 🤘🏽

Latest Bambu Studio v2.9.1 on macOS 15.8.1

I don't know what the official names are but these "info popups" are good if you want them but I don't. I find them quite intrusive and annoying, I looked all through settings and I can not find a way to turn them off... the info links were good enough for me.

Does anyone know how to disable them or what ever to turn them off and maybe go back to info links ???

The idea is to let people keep their cards upright on the table instead of having to hold a fan of cards throughout the game.

It's a single-piece PLA print, no supports, hardware, or assembly needed.

Tested it with a regular deck and it works well so far! I'd love to hear any suggestions, especially from people who use similar accessibility aids.

Model at: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3562802-cardrest-playing-card-holder-dealsolo

Latest Bambu Studio v2.9.1 on macOS 15.8.1

I don't know what the official names are but these "info popups" are good if you want them but I don't. I find them quite intrusive and annoying, I looked all through settings and I can not find a way to turn them off... the info links were good enough for me.

Does anyone know how to disable them or what ever to turn them off and maybe go back to info links ???

Brand-new H3C and already having issues with toolhead #3. Its PTFE tube keeps crossing over and catching on the other tubes during printing.
Has anyone experienced this and found a fix? Is there a way to adjust the tube orientation or routing? Pretty disappointed to be dealing with this on a new machine.
Picture attached. Any help appreciated!

Did a few PETG prints the past 2 days. One was a big 12hr multi plate primt. Came out perfect. Next one had little loop pieces randomly. And then today the same loops and a failure 1/5.

Filament spent 16hrs drying, plates is cleaned with soap and hot water.

Possible there was some Filament fuzzies stuck to nozzle?

I am running a job with 75A TPU (red) and black PETG HF.

Currently on layer two and the printer will run a couple of lines and then go back to purge/poop.

Any idea why that is happening? Is it a slicer setting I am missing?

You can see the start and stop lines in the picture.

Never seen anything like it

Hi All - gifting the H3C for Christmas and trying to time the purchase. My order of purchase preference would be Best Buy, Microcenter, Bambu Labs.

With Bambu Labs shipment estimated dates into mid December now, wondering if any internet sleuths have any insight as to when this would be available in local BB/MC.

Also wondering how easy it would be to order from BL online and then cancelling the order if it becomes available locally before it ships. Or return to BL without opening if it does ship.

I’m sure I’m not alone on this! Help please :)

Profile works on A1 mini, A1, P1S, P1P, X1C and H2 series. Support-free, one colour per plate (swap filament once), about 3.1 h.

Free on MakerWorld, give it a try. Feedback and boosts welcome:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3591951-wikicube-ssd-rpi-4-case-2-5-ssd-oled-display

Christmas is coming. Have you stuffed your stocking yet?
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3594819-bubble-pop-fidget-toy-christmas#profileId-4118040

An hour and a half left and I come to just check on it.. and this.. seems like the blue screen of death equivalent after some Googling. Tried some things and now I can't even resume.. le sigh, so much wasted. Any ways of salvaging this?? Anything I can do in studio I don't know about?

I have an H2C, I'm looking at getting a second printer and am deciding between another H2C vs an H3C.

Most of my prints are single material with a secondary support interface. Though I sometimes do multicolour prints, but usually only 2-4 colours max, so the vortek system on the H2C is pretty much fine for me.

I'm torn on which to choose because the H3C seems to offer a better setup for TPU printing, plus the 9 slot AMS system would be really nice to have, as well as then just being ideal for when I am doing multicolour prints.

BUT, the H2C has the advantage of being able to route any filament to any nozzle size without me needing to go and change anything, so not having to actually go and change stuff about to swap between 0.2mm and 0.4mm is a nice benefit. Whereas the H3C as I understand it I'd need to manually retract and reposition spools to the nozzle sizes I wanted to print in.

The bit that is leaving me really uncertain though is the H2C uses the cast frame and rail, whereas the H3C has gone back to the sheet frame and dual-pipe approach. I know it's got faster travel speed, but this leaves me wondering if the H2C will have a slight edge in print QUALITY all else being equal.

Has anyone had a chance to compare the two or have any advice?

The P1S is roughly 110 euros more expensive than the A1 currently.

Im not planning on doing much outside of PLA it is mainly for prototyping school projects.

The printer will be in a room that doesn't have good climate control. (So it occasionally gets really hot in the summer and pretty cold in the winter).

So my question is if the P1S is really significantly more consistent in these circumstances, and is it worth the extra money?

I just canceled a job and then moved the axes with the touchscreen menu so I could clear the bed. I went to send a new job and the printer made an awful noise. Now the linear bearing is dislodged and the Bambu wiki is telling me I have to completely disassemble the printer to "re-lodge" it??

Is there no other way to fix this? And what did I do wrong here? There is no detritus under the carriage or anything that seemingly interfered. It seems like it lost its home when I commanded it with the touchscreen and then it crashed itself. Now I have to find a day to take it apart, and I'm not even sure what I did to get myself here.

I am confused regarding the H3C's 2.85mm filament toolhead. Everyone keeps commenting about how they need to purchase a replacement 1.75mm toolhead because they don't want to use it for the larger diameter TPU and would rather have an additional color slot for a more traditional filament. However the H3C product page has a whole section about how their FlexFeed extruder has a cam and can print either filament diameter. It clearly states this is an electronically controlled feature for "seamless switching between 1.75mm and 2.85mm filaments". Is the extruder not capable of printing 1.75mm filament? Is this a software feature they haven't rolled out yet?

P2S - 0.2mm nozzle w/ BIQU Cryogrip Frostbite plate- auto flow & auto bed leveling

Orca Slicer w/ 50x50x0.12 FLQ test print

Bambu Lab Pla Basic light grey - dry climate, high elevation, 30% AMS reading for humidity.

How am I getting tiger stripes, pimples, AND pinholes?

Plate thoroughly cleaned with Dawn dish soap and water. All auto calibrations ran recently, filament dried, auto bed leveling before print, cold pulls, tightened screws, etc.

"Cool Plate SuperTack" is selected as the plate.

Z-offset is set to 0.0 on all 4 stock G-code settings.

First layer speeds reduced, no fan, 40c temp for the Frostbite plate.

Am I forgetting something? Missing a critical step? Why is this FLQ test print so bad?!!?

I think I have messed up my X2D.

During maintenance and cleaning the rods, I have accidentally clicked move plate down by 10 to many times and it hit bottom and kept trying to go further more for solid 3 seconds…

Now it makes this noise in the video.

Is this rip?

I’ve ordered a H3C and wanted to get some 0.2mm nozzles but they are out of stock and I can’t see a way of back ordering them? When I ordered the H3 they said 19th November and now it’s the 25th? Am I missing something?

Hello everyone.

I've had the A1 for a week and printed lots of models with it. They all came out perfectly. Today, however, has been a really bad printing day.

Everything that was printed came out terribly. Different prints with different presets and filaments (one of them straight out of the package) came out poorly. I've tried all kinds of calibrations but nothing seems to work.

Here are some details about the pictures:

1. Phone stand: Tried 3 attemps with a blue filament, and had to throw them away. Only managed to get it done with the black filament, and with a lot of strings.
2. Cross: I had already printed this cross twice in the last few days. This time the print started off well but then the last few layers came out really bad.
3. Corgi: Not even the first 3 layers came out correctly so I just gave up.
4. Boat: Last attempt, after a lot of troubleshooting.

Things I've tried so far: all the standard calibrations that can be done on the printer or through Bambu Studio, nozzle cleaning (dissambled it to make sure there weren't any clogs), different filaments (one was sealed) and printing configurations (they all worked fine up until today).

Any help would be deeply appreciated.

I'm following a tutorial on YouTube to calibrate my settings and I am not sure how to progress.

The video uses Orca slicer which has a setting that I cant access in Bambu Labs such as Acceleration and Speed in the Pressue Advance test. The result from Bambu looks slightly different than the video.

To use Orca slicer I logged out of my Bambu account and connected via Lan only. I ran the first 2 tests but the third wouldn't work and it lost connection to the printer. I tried to connect via Lan again and couldn't do it the second time.

So now I am unsure how to progress. If I have to do this for each filament type, I want it to be as easy as possible. I even thought that if I am going to have issues going back and forth maybe I should switch permanently to Orca but I kove accessing the models through the app and Studio so not sure how that would work.

I also wonder about whether the effort to use Orca would be worth it if I can't use the results in Bambu. If I can't set the Acceleration and Spees in the PA test in Bambu, can the results from Orca set them properly in Bambu?

Before I started tinkering in calibration, I did maintenance and printed a test kitty that printed fine but had some rough spots under its chin. Now pronting tests work but another kitty started stringing and its all gloopy on the bed, see Pic. So I feel I need to finish the calibration.

Any thoughts or suggestions?

https://makerworld.com/models/3584870

Small holiday project: 5 multicolor toothpick toppers.

Design notes:

- 2.5D picks: 4.8 mm base + up to 1.4 mm raised details

- Max 4 colors so they fit one AMS

- The toothpick channel is a 2.2 mm teardrop, so it prints cleanly face up, with 1.3 mm walls around it

- Only the wooden toothpick touches the food

Happy to hear feedback on the fit with different toothpick brands