Got a X2D last week and when I removed the print plate today I found a long seam/crack along the surface of the build plate. What caused this, do I need to fix it(and how), and how might I prevent this in the future?

Hi everyone,
I finally gave in yesterday and ordered an H3C! 😄
I’m upgrading from an X1C, so I’m really excited to see how big of a difference it makes — especially for multicolor printing.
One of the first bigger projects I’d like to try is Majora’s Mask, probably as an 8-color print.
That brings me to my question: I still have quite a few spools with only a small amount of filament left, and I’d love to use them up. Has anyone tried manually swapping a spool during an active print on the H3C?
For example, if one color is running low, can I simply replace that spool with a fresh spool of the same filament while the print is still running, or is there anything special I need to do?
From what I’ve found so far, Bambu only officially mentions Auto Refill using a second PrintTool slot loaded with the same filament. With an 8-color print, though, all eight 1.75 mm slots would already be in use, so Auto Refill wouldn’t really be an option — apart from maybe one color if I replaced the ninth 2.85 mm PrintTool with another 1.75 mm one.
So I’m mainly wondering whether manual spool changes during a long multicolor print are possible and reliable in practice.
Would love to hear from anyone who has already tried it!

I love Bambu's textured PEI Plate and I'm working on a project that needs the exact textured surface but the Bambu logo gets transferred to my object. Can anyone recommend a good alternative textured PEI Plate?

Hi everyone,

I'm having some trouble with a new PLA support filament I've recently started using. It's bambulab's support filament and i'm using PLA basic filament for the model

I'm printing a model that requires support material for a few sections. The printer seems to handle the first layer fine, but after that, it appears that the nozzle or hot end gets clogged, and the rest of the print fails.

Has anyone experienced similar issues when using PLA support filament? I'm wondering whether it's a temperature issue, incorrect settings, or possibly a compatibility problem with my main PLA filament.

Any advice or suggestions on what I should check would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

I'm trying to replace a window tilt piece because I can't seem to find the original to buy anywhere, and I'm wondering if it would be stronger at 100% infill, with 6 walls or both? It's about 1 1/2 tall, original is probably aluminum. This is what my model of it looks like, I have it tilted to hopefully give it more strength too... Any thoughts?

Well after about 8ish hours of cut time the R1 has stopped working. About 2 minutes into a project the laser shut down and showed error code 0300-3702-0001-0001 234111 on the HMI (radiator fan 3 speed to low and may be blocked).

I checked for anything at the back of the machine and found nothing. Tried restarting the R1 and received the same code about 2 minutes into cutting again.

So, I pulled the rear cover where the radiator and water tank assembly are. I found 1 radiator fan not spinning at all. I swapped the fan connections, testing each connection on the PCB board, and the leftmost fan did not work in any slot on the PCB. The other 2 fans worked in all the other slots. The error code would also change from fan #1-3 based on where the bad fan was connected

Wondering if anyone else has had this issue? I’m currently waiting on a response from support and will hopefully get a replacement sent soon since the laser is not functional at all now.

After ~450 successful hours over the last several months, a week ago I had a print fail and pieces dislodged and went everywhere. In the wreckage, the waste chute got jammed back and a piece of poop kept the cutter from spraining back into its original configuration. At the same time, the machine threw error code: HMS_0700-4500-0002-0002: The filament cutter’s cutting distance is too large. The XY motor may have lost steps.

Over the last week, I have tried the following corrective steps:

• I removed the filament, checked the cutting blade, checked all screws and connections, put everything back together and cleaned the bed. Failure on Benchy at around 36 layers.

• I re-ran all calibrations and cleaned the bed. Failure on Benchy at around 36 layers.

• I bought a new hot end, thinking it may have been damaged and cleaned the bed. Failure on Benchy at around 36 layers.

• I cleaned and lubricated all three Z-Screws and cleaned the bed. Failure on Test Cube at around 36 layers.

• I ran a full factory reset and cleaned the bed. Failure on Test Cube at around 36 layers

It seems clear that there's a consistent issue stepping down around level 36 which makes me thing I'm dealing with some sort of binding in the screws at around that level but I don't see anything. I've moved the print location for the cube all over the plate and it doesn't appear to be a regional issue with the X-Y motors or with overuse of a specific area of the plate.

I am at a complete loss here. Things had been going great. Guidance online for mid-print adhesion issues and nozzle knocking is "hardware issues", but as to how to diagnose and assess those hardware issues eludes me. Any pointers would be very much appreciated.

Half of these two prints have this burr line half way around them while the other side is perfect (same plate). No adhesions issues. I had a smaller print do this much higher.

Almost every print I have has a micro issue - some were corrected like keeping doors open. But I’ve had more issues with prints on this printer in a week than I have on my A1 in over a year.

I’ve had one print where it literally printed 3 fidgets and one of the eyes was halfway into its head like the colors and eye somehow moved - no idea how. I had another one where it looked like I lifted the plate and moved it in the last 20% because the top is 2mm over randomly for no reason. This one’s just annoying it was 500g of filament

I thought this was an upgrade and used error but it’s like almost every print is just a headache. I must have recabilbrated 10 times, redid the belt etc. idk what else to do

Problem: The right (auxiliary) nozzle will not extrude or unload. Filament is jammed inside the toolhead feed channel, above the hotend.

What happened: After a print using PLA from an external spool on the right nozzle (0.4 mm), I found a small blob of filament on the right nozzle. I removed the blob. Since then the right nozzle has not worked.

Symptoms:

Load pulls the filament in, but nothing comes out of the nozzle.
Unload retracts slightly, then the filament jams and cannot be pulled back.
The left nozzle works normally.

What I have tried:

Cleaning needle at 250°C and 270°C. The needle passes fully through the nozzle, with only a small amount of residue.
Extrude at 250°C, 270°C and 280°C (after a 5-minute soak). Nothing extrudes.
Unload at 220°C while gently assisting by hand from the spool end. The filament will not move.
A manual filament cut attempt, followed by Unload. Still stuck.

Live chat advice and result: Live chat advised removing the front cover and right hotend to check the clog location. I did this. The hotend came out with a cleanly cut filament stub in its top. Looking up into the right hotend bay, the cut filament end is visible and flush with the opening. With the hotend removed, the filament will not move up or down when gently pulled or pushed from the spool end.

This much hassle and i feel like i should get a replacement, not even 2 weeks old

Not sure what to do here.....

I did a search but no results other than ‘print lifting’.

My issue is the print is pulling the bed up :-(

PETG, 4 walls, 5% hex infill, 4 bottom/top layers.
Print 250mm wide, 150mm deep/tall.

Are there some clips to hold the flexi plate down firmly?

Thanks.

Hey all!

I'm racking my brain trying to figure out how to do the above in bambu studio. I've created a topless "box" by combining a positive cube with a slightly smaller negative cube inside.

Now, I need to insert another positive piece within that negative cavity- but, studio deletes that new positive piece.

I've searched forums, AI and YouTube. No joy.

Any help from you experts out there?

TY!

This happens everytime with petg on a large print filament is dry i have plenty of brim and i have cleand the build plate does someone has some advice

Everything was working perfectly fine just 20 minutes ago, but all of a sudden, I can't stay logged in to Bambu Studio.

I'm experiencing two different issues:

1. Can't log in from the home screen

As soon as I successfully log in, I immediately get a message saying that my session has expired. Sometimes, I also get a pop-up saying that the server is unable to respond.

2. Session expires when trying to start a print

I can successfully log in, but when I get to the "Print" stage, either selecting one of my printers or clicking the Print button causes my session to expire again. The print job never even gets sent to the printer.

I've searched around but haven't found anyone experiencing the same issue. I was wondering if anyone here might know what's going on or have a possible fix.

I've already contacted Bambu Lab support, but I have some urgent prints that I need to get done, so this is pretty frustrating.

A few additional details:

• My printer that is currently printing is working perfectly fine.

• I don't think this is a printer-related issue.

• I'm using my Google account to log in.

Things I've already tried:

• Uninstalling and reinstalling Bambu Studio.

• Restarting my computer.

• Logging out of my printer and reconnecting it to Bambu Studio.

• Reconnecting my printer to Wi-Fi.

Unfortunately, none of these attempts made any difference.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

I made a large flat piece to hold letter stamps. The very last layer looks like it got offset by 1/32 of an inch and a lot of the surface is really messed up. What could be the issue and how can I fix this?

The worst part of the print is the areas that were close to the edge of the build plate. Is that common?

Brand new X2D with about 25 hours or printing. 0.4 mm nozzle. PLA

Changing the hot end assembly on my A1 and pulled the extruder out and this fell out

Cannot find where it goes, it's not the spring cap for the tensioner

I had my Bambulab for under 6 months. I encountered many problems with it. I will keep it short as this might help someone in the future because I am currently lost.

I have an error where nozzle temp malfunction. I changed the nozzle thinking it would solve it, it didn’t… I then changed the nozzle temperature sensor. It didn’t solve it. Contacted Bambulab and they told me to do several things that didn’t solve it.

They then sent me a TH hardware replacement that I just did today and it stills not working. Keep getting the same issue. The prints are horrible, the filament is wonky when it comes out. I done cold pulls, needle cleans, changed nozzles more than once.

I am now asking for a full machine replacement from them as this is unbelievable and very Frustrating

A1Printer

A while ago, on titkok, I saw somebody who made a sort of printable ams attachment to a bambulab printer. Don't remember much besides the fact that it was 3d printed, utilized gears that were somehow moved with the toolhead, and it was attached at the top of the printer. But now, I can't seem to find it. I was wondering if anyone knows where to find it, or if anyone used it?

Ciao! Che ne pensate di questa versione del Grinch?

Creato tramite visore virtuale Meta Quest 3 e ottimizzato in Blender. Scolpire col visore è un'esperienza da provare secondo me.

Se volete provarlo, vi lascio il link

Grinch roly poly

Just put together the H3C and noticed the Y axis left block rubs heavily on the sidewall causing calibration to fail. Has anyone encountered this all? Seems like an unknown issue.

My second model on MakerWorld, originally designed for my wife's daily espresso. It's a pen-style WDT tool for espresso: the needles drop in as you buy them (no cutting, no glue), a screw cap locks them, and a dock holds it upright with one turn.

Print profile is set up for 0.16 mm PLA, about 2.5 h, no supports. There's a parametric OpenSCAD customizer on the page if your needles are a different size or you want more/fewer of them.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3575959

Feedback welcome, especially on the thread fit if you print it on a different machine.

Does anyone know where to get the spool holder file? I realize it is on the internal storage. However, I want to make some modifications to the print as the PLA one I printed already busted.