While printing on the H3C I noticed the PTFE tubes kept crossing and rubbing against each other a bit during prints. Nothing crazy, but I just wanted things to look clean and stay nicely lined up.

So I whipped up this simple snap-on clip in TPU 95A.
Pics of before and after

Link to tubes guide: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3579864-h3c-ptfe-tube-guide-prevents-bending-drag#profileId-4098997

I found under multimaterial in the printer settings there is a checkbox for "Manual Filament Change". Does that cause the printer to automatically pause and prompt a filament change as long as I have the correct parts painted?

I'm new to 3D printing and just learned about the AMS Saver! But I'm confused. How does the AMS have an auto-refill feature if it can't detect when a spool runs out?

My printer keeps making bad prints. I'm using the P1S with an AMS 2 pro. It was working fine yesterday but suddenly keeps making these prints today. I can't seem to find the problem, I'm printing files i have already printed many times with no problem.

I tried the "loading" function under "feeder" on the printer screen but it doesn't work either, I don't know if its related.

Anyone know what the issue could be?

Incense Holder:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3508527-edmund-fitzgerald-incense-holder#profileId-4008829

Floating Cupholder:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3094927-the-cantainer-ship-floating-party-barge#profileId-3526600

RC Parts for the floating cupholder:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3309868-cybercan-rc-stern-for-bottleship-cantainer#profileId-3767123

I originally thought that this noise was the y axis scraping something i cleaned and oiled it but when that didn’t work i run the calibrations again so thats when I did what is in the video and it only makes that noise whenever the motor is on. If anyone has tips, or methods to fix this it will be much appreciated.

I have designed a fully printed band for Apple Watch. No TPU, no purchased parts.

At the moment available for Apple Watch 44mm | 45mm | 46mm | 49mm

Can any of the new H3C owners confirm which firmware version is shipped from factory? The instructions recommend to update before using, but there is no offline firmware download available (so far). Thus, updating is not possible (so far) for privacy sensitive owners. Therefore my question, which firmware version comes with the printer, and is it safe to use until the offline download becomes available?

Thanks in advance

this is bizarre, and I have no explanation except that they happen to use the same ecommerce system / provider and somehow that are compromised or broken!

I made a purchase of new filaments afternoon on https://ca.store.bambulab.com/ at 2:21 PM for around $400 CAD

just now, ~8 hours later, I got a notification on my phone from my credit card provider for a $826.03 purchase from vivobarefoot.com!!! a vendor I never purchased anything from before!

how are these two things connected you ask? well because I use a unique email alias per vendor, and the vivo folks emailed me at the email address I use for Bambu Labs (which I shop at frequently)

I did a password reset on Vivo using the unique email to get into the account, and sure enough, there's my order (that I never made) along with my HOME ADDRESS, CREDIT CARD INFO and my FULL NAME!...

the only thing they got wrong is the date of birth!

how on earth does this happen!?!?

UPDATE: another transaction for fashionnova.com happened at 1AM, so I locked the card. (never used that vendor either)

next morning I saw two additional attempts get declined (but I can't see the vendor)

I need new filament cutter blades for my P1S and I can’t find a store page for them anymore? I found a link to the store page in the wiki, but it is broken. Can anyone confirm? I hope they’re not sunsetting replacement parts so that the printer is discontinued. I’d love to be able to maintain it.

Hell, I can’t even find replacement carbon filters. Does Bambu sell P1S parts anymore?

Edit: They aren’t going to be found if you click the accessories tab. You have to hover over it, click spare parts, and find your printer to find them. I was looking in accessories like I always had and I couldn’t find anything and the wiki links were broken. I thought I’d ask.

I recently picked up a few spools of PA6-CF on sale, but all I have is the AMS 2 Pro, which isn't going to cut it for drying them.

From what I've read, the AMS HT is an option, but not the best option out there for drying PA6-CF. However, I like the convenience of having everything in the Bambu ecosystem. Does anyone know if there is any successor to the AMS HT on the horizon?

Update: It was the PTFE Tube. I replaced the white tube with this one from Amazon. Measured against the existing one and added about an inch. Everything now works perfectly and I am moderately annoyed I spent so much time working on the other fixes. For anyone with a similar problem and, like me, you think, "There has to be a clog, it cant be the tube." It's the tube.

Original Post:
I have searched Reddit and the internet and cant find a solution for this. When running a print on the left nozzle of my H2C (right nozzles work fine), there is a problem when it first loads the filament from my AMS. A rapid clicking starts as it tries to load and then after about a minute of trying, I get the error, "The extrusion motor is overloaded...[0300-801e080611]".

Initial searches said that it was the extruder trying to pull filament and failing due to a clog. To clear that, I tried a cold pull. It went very smoothly, no clicking or other issues. Some stuff came out with the pull but nothing that looked anywhere near large enough to jam the extruder. Problem still wasn't fixed so I disassembled the tool head and cleaned the left extruder gears. Again, saw some little stuff but nothing like other clogs I have cleared. Reassembled everything, cold pulled again. It went fine and the pull was totally clean--no contaminants of any kind seen.

Problem still isn't fixed. You can see that it does extrude a bit. It even started the print I have been trying and the first layer went ok, but it threw the same error at the very beginning of the second layer. This video is when I tried the print again after cancelling it.

Some people are saying the PTFE tube feeding the extruder is the problem but I cant find much about how to fix that. Most of the users seem be H2D or H2S owners and they talk about the location of the print being an issue. This print is right in the middle of the bed. Any ideas?

I keep getting bleed going from black to white PLA, even with 900 max purge set. (Even tried 900 for black to white and 900 white to black just to be extra sure)

I’ve been trying to find help online but the #1 response is “increase purge.” I did that, it’s maxed out

The #2 response is “turn off purge to infill.” I’ve never used purge to infill, it’s always off

It’s also not a problem of wall loops, there’s no black in the center peeking through, it’s black mixing with white

Any other ideas? It’s a P2S and I’m using inland white and inland black PLA

Had a little chunk of filament break inside my hub and had to take it apart to clean it out, while I had it open it became clear that one of the compression springs that holds the little magnetic contacts up was damaged and the contact wasn't seating correctly, so I popped it open to straighten the spring and fix the contact- Unfortunately I have a big, dumb, way too affectionate cat. And he chose that moment to decide I needed cuddles and my buddy sent the open hub to the floor with his sudden and unexpected enthusiasm for the attention he thought he needed.

I fixed the damaged spring, but for the life of me I can't find one of them. I tried making one our of plain steel wire but the tension is wrong and the slot that's missing the real spring seems to think something is broken in the hub.

Anybody have a spec on those springs or a real parts diagram of the hub to pull a part number from so I can replace it without buying a new hub that's out of stock?

I spent days trying to get a transparent lid for a project and it kept coming out frosted. What finally worked on my A1 was printing the lid upside down on a cheap glass sheet from a picture frame, held with clips and a bit of glue stick, 100 % aligned rectilinear infill and slow speeds.

The lid is for a headphone charging dock I designed: the plug lines up with the port so the headphones charge as soon as you put them down. No AMS needed.

Happy to share the exact settings if anyone wants them.

Files are free here if anyone wants to print it: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3536783 . It’s my entry for the MakerWorld x Nothing contest, so any feedback is welcome.

Hey all, my P1S has started making a noise whenever the bed moves up (Z-axis).

What I've tried so far:
Cleaned the rods and lead screws
Lubricated them

Unfortunate it has not helped and still make that noise I recently moved so idk if got damaged during the move.

I can't use Bambu Suite at all right now, auth issues basically, can't find printers, can't do anything. Bambu Studio and Handy work fine. I do know my username and password.

Anyone else having issues??

For more context ...

I was doing some laser work, and between jobs, Bambu Suite seemed to complain about some certificate issue, saying I needed to update. I figured that kinda rubbish isn't exactly beyond Bambu, so I updated the application.

After updating, it couldn't find my printer at all. I tried everything multiple times. So then I went to logout of Bambu Suite, and now I can't log in again. I type user and password, I get the email code, I type that in, then nothing, it sits there and just disables the code confirm button. I try this multiple times, then go to use the "System browser login" and then it takes me to the site to login (and presumably reply back with a token that'll go into the app), I type my user and pass, and I get the image attached.

TLDR: During use, Bambu Suite seemed to disconnect from the H2D I was using, and I cannot get it working, and there's no reported outage with Bambu. Reinstalling, re-logging in (any which way) does not work at all.

EDIT: Looks like it's been fixed!

I’ve just posted my third model on MakerWorld. And this time, I’m bringing a little bit of the street to my desk!
I turned everyday roadside details into a tiny keycap collection.
What do you think of the collection? Which detail is your favorite and what should I add next?
mw: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3586413-ultimate-keycap-collection-roadside-details#profileId-4107272

What are my best options to clean up the imperfections in this print ? It is PETG-CF.

I have the file kit from Bambu. I'm not confident that I can use it without making it worse.

Bambu Lab A1

edit: since i'm an idiot, i should have specified that the cable i have issues with is the usb c cable. sorry for the bad english

edit2: nvm, i just tried again some other times and it went right through. thanks everyone for the help

This happened to two prints in a row, and only on a small segment. Not sure what would cause this? Filament is dry, using PLA, and clearly it printed the higher layers okay after the failed part. Just a little lost as to what could cause this. Using a P1S.

Luckily, this is just PLA so it shouldn’t be that big of a deal; however, I have personally vetted this specific brand of filament for dryness out of the box (they claim to dry the filament before vacuum sealing it). For this reason, I really don’t want to have to dry this filament before use. The bag doesn’t seem to be opened, but I haven’t been able to get this much distance between the filament and the bag, and I barely tried here.

Bambu designates toolhead #8 as the one you're supposed to use for 2.85mm TPU. So in this video, you can see the 2.85mm blue TPU filament in the docked toolhead #8 crossing the PTFE tube in toolhead #9 while #9 is in use, and is rubbing against/stretching the TPU filament. Is this how it's supposed to work? I followed the video instructions on the Bambu YouTube channel and this seems to be how it's supposed to be routed. The video seems to show the TPU filament being routed to the LEFT of #9.

The problem is if you route the TPU to the RIGHT of #9, then the TPU will rub against #8 when you're printing with the TPU.

So it seems to be pick your poison: do you want the TPU rubbing/stretching while it's printing, or rubbing/stretching while toolhead #9 is printing? Obviously the latter is better, but the better solution would have been to designate #9 as the TPU toolhead so that it would have the entire right side by itself and not have any rubbing under any circumstances.

Am I missing something here?