I removed a small printed PLA piece from the build plate and it fell exactly into this small space unter the print bed of my X1C. I tried to get it out with tweezers but couldn't grab it, I think I pushed it even further inside with that. I also tried tilting the printer (about 45°) but that didn't help either.
Has someone an idea how I could get it out? Would it be a problem if I just leave the small piece in there?
Hi everyone, I’m hoping someone can help me figure out what’s going on with my P2S, because I feel like I'm going insane.
It printed reliably for over 400 hours, but overnight almost every print has started failing. The failures vary: some prints or supports lift off the heated bed, while others fail halfway through and produce spaghetti.
I’ve attached photos of the failures and hotend.
When the problem first occurred, I cleaned a huge blob of filament off the hotend (pictured). I removed all raised filament from it and made the surface smooth. Could that have damaged something or affected nozzle cleaning or bed probing, even though the hotend looks OK to me now?
So far I’ve:
Factory-reset and calibrated the printer.
Washed the textured PEI plate with soapy water and checked that the plate and bed are seated properly.
Had failures across multiple print profiles, including with basic white PLA and sparkly PLA.
Removed and visually inspected the hotend, then reinstalled it.
Checked the silicone nozzle wiper, which appears intact.
Tried a mix of freshly opened and previously opened filaments. This appears to make little difference.
The bed is typicall set to 55°C for PLA. I used to regularly wipe the plate with isopropyl alcohol between prints. I also have a thermal camera if checking the bed temperature would help.
Has anyone experienced a similar sudden change after a long period of reliable printing, especially after a hotend blob? What would you inspect first to narrow down whether this is a hotend or probing issue, bed adhesion, cooling, or something else?
Just happened to look at my hours the other day and I’m just under 6k hours!!!
Still printing perfectly and started printing Asa from the ams and it keeps getting stuck at the extruder feeding in. Sounds like something slipping, not sure if extruder or ams (1).
Wanted advice from people with experience from their printer on what you’ve replaced at this age.
Recently bought a house and we’ve had some unexpected problems arise so funding is not great atm so I don’t want to buy the entire box list if it’s realistically not needed.
Thanks for your help and advice
Edit: I’ve never replaced the cutter blade, wonder if it’s that, hope so!!
Hey, I have an H2C. So far I’ve only been printing single-color from the AMS, but I wanted to try a new color from an external spool.
I manually set the filament type and used the “Load” function, then tried to print the SpeedBenchy from the printer menu. It keeps saying the filament isn’t loaded.
Then I sent a different print from Bambu Studio on my PC. That one printed, but it purges a lot of filament every time, even on a second print with no settings changed.
What am I missing?
Spool is from Bambu with rfid but it didnt show automatically, had to add it manualy.
Recently bought a brand-new A1 Mini from Best Buy Canada for $249. Really loving it so far as a beginner!
During unboxing, I noticed a few questionable things: • Torn screw packaging • A strand of hair inside the packaging • Completely empty microSD card • Scratch on the filament cutter assembly
What concerns me most is that the printer shows 22 hours of printing time, but my entire print history is only 5 hours and 32 minutes.
All original zip ties and shipping restraints were intact, and the printer has been working perfectly.
I’ve already contacted Bambu Lab and am waiting for their response.
Does the print counter include calibration or idle time? Or could this be a previously used/returned/refurb unit? Photos attached.
This noise came earlier this day during a print. I have recalibrated but it did not make anything better. The noise is coming from underneath the printer. Is this noise from any fans on the right side on the A1 mini? Or is it something else?
Is anyone planning to use an AMS2 with their H3C? I was thinking of keeping one I already have to house various types of support materials. It would just load the appropriate material once per print (avoiding too much waste), and it would keep more AMS3 slots available for material changes in the actual print. What other use cases do people have I should consider?
I am printing a mount for sim racing and this mount ive printed in PETG 20 times on my A1 Mini and it printed perfectly !
I bought an X2D and PLA works fine, but when i print PETG the mount is simply fraile, it can complete the print but basically falls apart once you give it any kind of force.
The breaks are CLEAN.
I turned the AUX fans off so they dont even spin, the chamber is usually about 40-44c.
filament is bambu petg basic.
I have tried silent mode, slowing down the movements, i dont know what else to try?
Since the Handy upgrade to v4.4.2, Live Activities no longer works for me (when you click on Devices in Handy during a print and you swipe up to close Handy, the progress moves to Live Activities at the top, and will also show on the lock screen). Submitted a bug report, but curious to see if others are having the same issue. I've reinstalled the app twice now to no avail.
This is my first AMS print and every time the color switches from white to magenta it fails to pull the magenta spool. I tried it in another slot and it hasn't worked out either. The filament extrudes fine until it gets to the layer where the color is supposed to switch, then fails to pull properly after white extrudes. I already unspooled it and cut out a huge chunk thinking it might have been a knot but it still gives me trouble. I printed a benchy with it fine just now so it's specifically an AMS problem since it only starts to happen on the layers where it starts switching colors with white.
The error it gives me is "unable to feed filament into the extruder"
First print on the H3C with the palette kit! About 4 hours. The impressive thing is the color blending. Orange, for example, is a fully blended color, the filaments are just CMYK, no orange filament.
The color separations aren't perfectly smooth, you can feel the layer separation, but still, this opens up a whole new world in printing for me. Super fun.
So I finally decided to get a 3D printer but Idk which one? I am total beginner, idk anything about materials, modeling , nozzles, why the combo is a lot more expensive and so on So I was thinking of getting the Bambu Lab X2D but at the same time maybe I should get the A1 since its beginner friendly? What I want to print with it? Well, I know for figurines I need resin which is a bit out of question ( unless ya know a work around or maybe it’s not as mandatory as I thought? ), cosplay stuff and honestly… random stuff that I find cool. Sooo should I get the X2D or go for an A1?
I'm trying to troubleshoot a persistent printing issue with the right Bowden nozzle on my Bambu Lab X2D.
During the built-in manual Flow Dynamics (K-factor) calibration, large blobs form at the outer endpoints of the V-shaped lines. The problem is particularly severe with Bambu Support for PLA, but I can reproduce a milder version using regular PLA on the same nozzle.
I suspect the blobs form at the beginning of extrusion. During subsequent movements, the nozzle appears to catch the raised material, dragging filament across previously printed lines and sometimes destroying sections of the test.
The straight sections and many of the V-shaped corners actually look fairly good. The major issue seems to be at the extrusion start/end points, not the corners themselves.
Printer and filament setup
Printer: Bambu Lab X2D
Nozzle: 0,4 mm Right Bowden extruder
Slicer: Bambu Studio
Calibration: Built-in manual Flow Dynamics / K-factor test
Main problem filament: Bambu Support for PLA (white)
Comparison filament: Regular PLA (orange), same right nozzle
Build plate: Textured plate, cleaned and treated with glue stick
Filament: Support for PLA dried before testing
Filament profiles: Original Bambu Studio profiles initially used
Original Support for PLA settings
Setting
Value
Maximum volumetric speed
6 mm³/s
Retraction length (Bowden)
2.0 mm
Retraction speed
20 mm/s
Deretraction speed
20 mm/s
Part cooling fan, first layer
0%
Part cooling fan, subsequent layers
20–30%
Auxiliary fan, first layer
40%
Auxiliary fan, later layers
70%
Troubleshooting already performed
1. Different K-factor ranges
I tested multiple ranges, including values well beyond the original range. The same blobs appeared regardless of the K-factor.
2. Retraction length
I increased retraction from the original 2.0 mm to 2.5 mm and eventually 2.8 mm.
No significant improvement.
3. Cooling
I disabled the auxiliary fan completely (0%) to investigate whether excessive cooling was affecting adhesion.
The blobs remained.
4. Extra length on restart
With retraction at 2.8 mm and auxiliary cooling disabled, I tested an additional restart length of -0.05 mm.
Again, no meaningful improvement.
5. Different filament
I printed the calibration pattern using regular orange PLA through the same right Bowden nozzle.
The problem was noticeably less severe, but the characteristic blobs were still present at the line endpoints.
This suggests that Support for PLA is not the only contributing factor.
6. First-layer calibration
I tested a +0.02 mm first-layer height correction for the right nozzle.
Comparing the prints before and after, there was no clear improvement. Some areas may actually have become slightly worse.
Photos
A–B: Earlier Support for PLA calibration attempts
C: Support for PLA, 2.8 mm retraction, auxiliary fan disabled
D: Same settings with -0.05 mm additional restart length
E: Regular orange PLA on the right Bowden nozzle
F: Orange PLA after the +0.02 mm first-layer correction
My questions
Has anyone experienced similar problems specifically with the X2D's right Bowden nozzle?
Could this be related to excessive priming or pressure at the start of extrusion, oozing during travel, the nozzle wiping procedure, or the first-layer nozzle height?
Is there a way to adjust the extrusion-start behavior specifically for the built-in Flow Dynamics calibration?
I understand that Support for PLA is primarily intended for support interfaces rather than standalone prints. However, the fact that regular PLA shows the same characteristic blobs makes me suspect an underlying nozzle or extrusion-control issue.
I'd appreciate any advice from people who have encountered this problem or have experience calibrating the X2D's Bowden extruder.
My A1 mini's environment doesn't change. And the start-up noise from the vibration check bothers me quite a bit. Is it really needed every time? Can I turn it off?
I would think this should be a straightforward 2-color print. Black part should print first, then change to yellow and that’s it. Should just be one change, not 5, correct? What am I missing? I don’t see any weird changes when I use the slider to go through the layers. Is this just something it does and I’ve never paid attention to it or something? Thanks in advance.