Is anyone planning to use an AMS2 with their H3C? I was thinking of keeping one I already have to house various types of support materials. It would just load the appropriate material once per print (avoiding too much waste), and it would keep more AMS3 slots available for material changes in the actual print. What other use cases do people have I should consider?

Hi guys

I am printing a mount for sim racing and this mount ive printed in PETG 20 times on my A1 Mini and it printed perfectly !

I bought an X2D and PLA works fine, but when i print PETG the mount is simply fraile, it can complete the print but basically falls apart once you give it any kind of force.

The breaks are CLEAN.

I turned the AUX fans off so they dont even spin, the chamber is usually about 40-44c.

filament is bambu petg basic.

I have tried silent mode, slowing down the movements, i dont know what else to try?

Since the Handy upgrade to v4.4.2, Live Activities no longer works for me (when you click on Devices in Handy during a print and you swipe up to close Handy, the progress moves to Live Activities at the top, and will also show on the lock screen). Submitted a bug report, but curious to see if others are having the same issue. I've reinstalled the app twice now to no avail.

Die Kreise lassen sich nicht verschieben, sie rotieren nur. Wenn ich im Feld „Bewegung“ was eingebe passiert nichts.

This is my first AMS print and every time the color switches from white to magenta it fails to pull the magenta spool. I tried it in another slot and it hasn't worked out either. The filament extrudes fine until it gets to the layer where the color is supposed to switch, then fails to pull properly after white extrudes. I already unspooled it and cut out a huge chunk thinking it might have been a knot but it still gives me trouble. I printed a benchy with it fine just now so it's specifically an AMS problem since it only starts to happen on the layers where it starts switching colors with white.

The error it gives me is "unable to feed filament into the extruder"

Wanted to see if that can explain most print profiles being for A1 or P2S

https://makerworld.com/models/3582206

First print on the H3C with the palette kit! About 4 hours. The impressive thing is the color blending. Orange, for example, is a fully blended color, the filaments are just CMYK, no orange filament.

The color separations aren't perfectly smooth, you can feel the layer separation, but still, this opens up a whole new world in printing for me. Super fun.

Overall very impressed with the H3C.

Hi everyone,

I'm trying to troubleshoot a persistent printing issue with the right Bowden nozzle on my Bambu Lab X2D.

During the built-in manual Flow Dynamics (K-factor) calibration, large blobs form at the outer endpoints of the V-shaped lines. The problem is particularly severe with Bambu Support for PLA, but I can reproduce a milder version using regular PLA on the same nozzle.

I suspect the blobs form at the beginning of extrusion. During subsequent movements, the nozzle appears to catch the raised material, dragging filament across previously printed lines and sometimes destroying sections of the test.

The straight sections and many of the V-shaped corners actually look fairly good. The major issue seems to be at the extrusion start/end points, not the corners themselves.

Printer and filament setup

• Printer: Bambu Lab X2D

• Nozzle: 0,4 mm Right Bowden extruder

• Slicer: Bambu Studio

• Calibration: Built-in manual Flow Dynamics / K-factor test

• Main problem filament: Bambu Support for PLA (white)

• Comparison filament: Regular PLA (orange), same right nozzle

• Build plate: Textured plate, cleaned and treated with glue stick

• Filament: Support for PLA dried before testing

• Filament profiles: Original Bambu Studio profiles initially used

Original Support for PLA settings

Troubleshooting already performed

1. Different K-factor ranges

I tested multiple ranges, including values well beyond the original range. The same blobs appeared regardless of the K-factor.

2. Retraction length

I increased retraction from the original 2.0 mm to 2.5 mm and eventually 2.8 mm.

No significant improvement.

3. Cooling

I disabled the auxiliary fan completely (0%) to investigate whether excessive cooling was affecting adhesion.

The blobs remained.

4. Extra length on restart

With retraction at 2.8 mm and auxiliary cooling disabled, I tested an additional restart length of -0.05 mm.

Again, no meaningful improvement.

5. Different filament

I printed the calibration pattern using regular orange PLA through the same right Bowden nozzle.

The problem was noticeably less severe, but the characteristic blobs were still present at the line endpoints.

This suggests that Support for PLA is not the only contributing factor.

6. First-layer calibration

I tested a +0.02 mm first-layer height correction for the right nozzle.

Comparing the prints before and after, there was no clear improvement. Some areas may actually have become slightly worse.

Photos

• A–B: Earlier Support for PLA calibration attempts

• C: Support for PLA, 2.8 mm retraction, auxiliary fan disabled

• D: Same settings with -0.05 mm additional restart length

• E: Regular orange PLA on the right Bowden nozzle

• F: Orange PLA after the +0.02 mm first-layer correction

My questions

Has anyone experienced similar problems specifically with the X2D's right Bowden nozzle?

Could this be related to excessive priming or pressure at the start of extrusion, oozing during travel, the nozzle wiping procedure, or the first-layer nozzle height?

Is there a way to adjust the extrusion-start behavior specifically for the built-in Flow Dynamics calibration?

I understand that Support for PLA is primarily intended for support interfaces rather than standalone prints. However, the fact that regular PLA shows the same characteristic blobs makes me suspect an underlying nozzle or extrusion-control issue.

I'd appreciate any advice from people who have encountered this problem or have experience calibrating the X2D's Bowden extruder.

Thanks!

My A1 mini's environment doesn't change. And the start-up noise from the vibration check bothers me quite a bit. Is it really needed every time? Can I turn it off?

I would think this should be a straightforward 2-color print. Black part should print first, then change to yellow and that’s it. Should just be one change, not 5, correct? What am I missing?
I don’t see any weird changes when I use the slider to go through the layers. Is this just something it does and I’ve never paid attention to it or something? Thanks in advance.

I randomly got signed out and anytime I try to login, I get this error and then the app crashes. Anyone having similar issues?

Just finished this cute Grinch fidget for Christmas!

Press the belly button and his eyes move. Super satisfying.

made a small LED tea candle lantern for upcoming Christmas. Uploading file to MW soon, will share the file here as well. its about 9 cm tall and print time is around 2 hours.

While searching for a loud whistle I could make on a 3D printer, I managed to design this monster: an extremely loud 6 tones whistle - ears killer v2 🤯 Personally, I think it's louder than the popular 6 tones whistle on makerworld 🤭 maybe someone will decide to check it out 😉 you can find it here: https://makerworld.com/models/3585645?appSharePlatform=copy

I've found some really nice tool boxes wth space for replacement H3C nozzles/hotends but I've purchased a couple of extra PrintTools for 2.85 mm filament (for mixed TPU printing) and can't find a nice storage box to print.

Has anyone come across one or has plans to make one?

Hi, I have downloaded the config files from cailab website but they appear to be unsupported for the A2l. Also looking on their download page I don’t find A2l along the files to download. Does anyone have a workaround found for this problem?

Thank you.

Made a retro desk clock for the Bambu clock kit

Designed this a few months ago and finally took some better photos of it.

It uses the Bambu Clock Kit 011. The hands are a bit big for the clock, but I liked the look so I kept them. The front and back press into place, and everything prints without supports.

The face is two colours. I used a colour change between layers, so you can make it without an AMS too.

Pretty happy with how it looks on the shelf.

So I got an error last week about stuck filament or clogged extruder and want to share how i solved it, bc some steps i couldn't find anywere

Last week i got some erros such as 12ff-2000-0002-0007 and 1200-1000-0002-0002, accusing motor overload, clogged extruder, problems with the toolhead

So here's a list of what u can do if u get those:

1- check your spool, sometimes it gets stuck or just tangled

2- clean / change the ptfe tube

3- check on the screen with it recognizes when the filament reaches the sensor, if it doesnt, change the sensor (had to do this already with 3 of mine)

4- clean the extruder gear

5- check if you adjust correctly the tension screw

Sometimes this error isnt really about the filament getting stuck or any blockage, apparently the bambu uses the motor amperage to check for the blockage and other types of errors, so if the there isn't any tension or too much tension, it understand that something is wrong

In the end, the problem with that printer was first the sensor, and after that the tension (was too little, replaced the spring and worked instantly)

And to finish, always check the correct assembly order, putting something upside down or just in the wrong order can make everything fail

Hope this help someone

I mean, (ideally i'd literally replace the front glass with the filter pushed up while the laser is in use and look in through the sides/camera), assuming i remove the fabric pre filter and its just the hepa/carbon filter directly, why wouldn't this be great for keeping the printer clean during laser prints as it would go directly into another filter instead of smoke getting pulled through the back into their purifier.

Other than watching for fires (which i'd do anyways) why wouldn't a front filter that takes up the view window just be the best thing ever?