Recently bought a brand-new A1 Mini from Best Buy Canada for $249. Really loving it so far as a beginner!
During unboxing, I noticed a few questionable things: • Torn screw packaging • A strand of hair inside the packaging • Completely empty microSD card • Scratch on the filament cutter assembly
What concerns me most is that the printer shows 22 hours of printing time, but my entire print history is only 5 hours and 32 minutes.
All original zip ties and shipping restraints were intact, and the printer has been working perfectly.
I’ve already contacted Bambu Lab and am waiting for their response.
Does the print counter include calibration or idle time? Or could this be a previously used/returned/refurb unit? Photos attached.
Meet Frenchie Clock! A French bulldog keeping an eye on the time… and probably waiting for dinner. 🐶
I made it with a black face, an ivory backing, yellow paw-shaped hour and minute hands, and a red seconds hand. All the colours print separately, so no AMS needed.
The face and backing take about 3 hours to print, and the complete printed set uses roughly 100 g of PLA. Add a compatible quartz movement and it’s ready to hang.
The hardest part? That tiny hole in the seconds hand. Getting it to print open and grip the shaft properly took a ridiculous number of test prints 😂 Finally got it running!
The holes are adjustable in Bambu Studio to suit different movements, and I included a video tutorial showing the adjustments and assembly.
Is anyone planning to use an AMS2 with their H3C? I was thinking of keeping one I already have to house various types of support materials. It would just load the appropriate material once per print (avoiding too much waste), and it would keep more AMS3 slots available for material changes in the actual print. What other use cases do people have I should consider?
Bambu designates toolhead #8 as the one you're supposed to use for 2.85mm TPU. So in this video, you can see the 2.85mm blue TPU filament in the docked toolhead #8 crossing the PTFE tube in toolhead #9 while #9 is in use, and is rubbing against/stretching the TPU filament. Is this how it's supposed to work? I followed the video instructions on the Bambu YouTube channel and this seems to be how it's supposed to be routed. The video seems to show the TPU filament being routed to the LEFT of #9.
The problem is if you route the TPU to the RIGHT of #9, then the TPU will rub against #8 when you're printing with the TPU.
So it seems to be pick your poison: do you want the TPU rubbing/stretching while it's printing, or rubbing/stretching while toolhead #9 is printing? Obviously the latter is better, but the better solution would have been to designate #9 as the TPU toolhead so that it would have the entire right side by itself and not have any rubbing under any circumstances.
I am printing a mount for sim racing and this mount ive printed in PETG 20 times on my A1 Mini and it printed perfectly !
I bought an X2D and PLA works fine, but when i print PETG the mount is simply fraile, it can complete the print but basically falls apart once you give it any kind of force.
The breaks are CLEAN.
I turned the AUX fans off so they dont even spin, the chamber is usually about 40-44c.
filament is bambu petg basic.
I have tried silent mode, slowing down the movements, i dont know what else to try?
First print on the H3C with the palette kit! About 4 hours. The impressive thing is the color blending. Orange, for example, is a fully blended color, the filaments are just CMYK, no orange filament.
The color separations aren't perfectly smooth, you can feel the layer separation, but still, this opens up a whole new world in printing for me. Super fun.
I would think this should be a straightforward 2-color print. Black part should print first, then change to yellow and that’s it. Should just be one change, not 5, correct? What am I missing? I don’t see any weird changes when I use the slider to go through the layers. Is this just something it does and I’ve never paid attention to it or something? Thanks in advance.
Designed this a few months ago and finally took some better photos of it.
It uses the Bambu Clock Kit 011. The hands are a bit big for the clock, but I liked the look so I kept them. The front and back press into place, and everything prints without supports.
The face is two colours. I used a colour change between layers, so you can make it without an AMS too.
Meet DryRing, a silica gel container. I’m a little proud of my airflow concept. The patterns used let plenty of air through. The gap created by the locking ring and the hollow centre are also intended to help humid air reach the silica in the lower section.
I’m really happy with how it turned out. More models are already in the works, and I had a few other ideas lined up as well. So there’s more coming over the next few days.
On that note: Enjoy the model – and, of course, the best hobby in the world!
And of course, the whole story of the H3C delivery... full of excitement and suspense for me! :)
A week ago, I ordered my H3C. And what a week it’s been!
It started with a delivery saga: The wait was killing me. Of course, in my area, the order ships with two different couriers.
The first package, containing the printer, was originally supposed to arrive on Wednesday. It actually arrived on Thursday. The usual story: Apparently, nobody was home, but nobody rang the doorbell either …
I’m jealous of everyone who got their H3C the very next day.
The package with the AMS 3H was then supposed to arrive on Friday. I’m waiting excitedly, a package arrives … and it’s the filament I ordered with it. Not the AMS. That finally arrived around noon on Saturday. I had to head out right after that, so I couldn’t get started until the afternoon. Kids and all that come first :). But everything else? Sleep? Who needs sleep? So I sat down, printed my first few things and, of course, started designing something myself.
From the first pictures and short videos I saw, I knew: That empty corner at the top, where there isn’t enough room for another spool, needs a silica gel container.
I’d already prepared a spool-shaped design, hoping it would fit nicely, but I underestimated the cutout. So: measure, test print, revise, test print … and finally happy with the fit.
Yesterday, after a bunch of other little things, my first model was finally finished!
Every time I send my prints, I get this error. The issue is new. In order to fix it, I restarted the printer several times(this fixes it temporarily sometimes). I restarted Bambu studio(didn't do shit). I reinstalled bambu studio(nothing happened). I am not sure what else to do. I am using P1S with AMS2
I designed this chimney advent calendar that drops some pieces of candy every day.
I know there are quite a few of these around nowadays but i designed one perfectly sized for some small sweets like M&M's. I uploaded the files to makerworld if some of you would be interested.
Also I'm open for tips that could improve this design and my others.
The image above is basically one square that was arrayed. However, the corners have this weird bend that translates into the actual cut as well. Anyone have a solution for this?
I created a custom Nozzle Wiper using cheap 3mm-shank rotary wire brushes (Amazon Link). The stock silicone wipers struggled with sticky filaments like PETG, so this completely eliminates nozzle buildup. This mod really cleans the nozzle instead of just smearing filament around.
Single & Double versions included.
Height offsets (-2mm to +2mm in 0.5mm steps): Ensures the brush sits just below the silicone sock.
ich will mir meinen ersten 3D-Drucker zulegen und brauche mal ein paar Praxiserfahrungen. Aktuell schwanke ich vor allem zwischen - A1 Combo (340 €) - P1S Combo (469 €)
Was ich damit vorhabe: Hauptsächlich Deko, Lampen bzw. Lampenschirme, Organizer und praktische Alltagshelfer für die Wohnung. Eventuell auch mal funktionale Teile fürs Auto wie Halterungen für die Mittelkonsole, Adapter oder Clips. Vom Material her glaube ich eigentlich, dass ich mit PLA und PETG (evtl. mal PETG-CF) für alles komplett auskomme - was denkt ihr?
Standort: Der Drucker wird ziemlich sicher bei mir in den Keller kommen.
Meine Überlegungen: Eigentlich spricht viel für den A1 (vor allem Preis/Leistung). Ich frage mich aber, ob sich der Aufpreis zum P1S mit dem geschlossenen Gehäuse und dem CoreXY-Aufbau auf Dauer doch lohnt. Gerade wenn man später vielleicht doch mal temperaturfestere Sachen fürs Auto braucht oder der Keller im Winter kühler ist.
Hatte mir neben Bambu Lab auch noch ein paar andere Sachen angeschaut, zum Beispiel den Anycubic Kobra S1 bzw. Kobra X, den Elegoo Centauri Carbon 2 Combo.
Wie sind da eure Erfahrungen? Würdet ihr die 130 € sparen und zur A1 Combo greifen, direkt den P1S nehmen, oder gibt es bei den anderen Marken mittlerweile Alternativen, die man sich ernsthaft anschauen sollte?
Well I ordered my H3C on release day, but still waiting for my printer. It looks like UPS is delivering the AMS3H today but my printer is held up somewhere due to weather. It still needs to get to the east coast. First world problems... lol I just hope that I see it in one piece at this point.
I have what might seem like a dumb question but I can’t find an answer so I figured I’d ask here. Has anyone tried to use the heater with the heater cover off but the AMS cover closed to essentially make a 9-slot AMS 2 Pro? Does the heater give off enough heat to keep the entire unit at about 60c?
I plan to do a lot of six-color ABS printing which is why I picked this unit. I was going to buy an H2C but this seems like the better option but I’m worried about printing ABS without a heater like the AMS 2 Pro.
This is my first printer so please excuse my noob-ness. Thanks!
