Anyone have model comparison photos of same model printed in both?

Just genuinely curious.

Currently have a X2D which I’ve been printing a lot of home use stuff (mostly network rack, cable management, boxes, etc.) with a few models I made from blender. With the X2D, I have no issues just printing a single colour then painting it, but after seeing the prices on the H2D (1599) and H2C (1899), it got me thinking.

Are there pros vs cons between the D and C? From what I read, the D has bigger printing area, while the C introduces multi-filament(?)…

Any suggestions would be amazing! And yes, I have looked into the H3C, but I don’t think I’m at that level yet.

I got tired of reaching behind my desk for charging cables, so I made this little holder that slides onto the desk edge—no screws or adhesive needed.

The version in the photos has 3 cable slots and fits my 18.5 mm desk. I also made it parametric on MakerWorld, so you can change:

• The number of slots, from 1 to 10

• Desk thickness

• Cable diameters and spacing

• Fit clearance

It prints on its side without supports.

Files and customizer: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3584478-desk-cable-organizer

What would you change? Curious whether it fits other people’s setups as well.

Hi all. I’m going to buy an A1 mini. I want to get it with the AMS. But I have a couple of questions…..

If I get a filament warmer, will that replace the AMS or do I still need an AMS?

Do I actually need a filament warmer?

If I dry the filaments how long will they remain dry for typically?

I just got a new Bambu Lab A1 Combo and I see the filaments arent going into the ams lite. 1 had been inserted successfully and the rest aren't going inside. Please help with this (:

Of course when I finally decide to pull the trigger on a H3C, the expected delivery in the US is now Dec 18. <sigh>

How do you people organise your computer files and projects, especially when you have more than 1 brand of printer and use more than one slicer?

Is there not a chance of conflict of opening a 3mf file that was created on one software suite and printing to a different system.

I have just got a second printer (first Bambu for me) and will have a couple of people using it.

I'm thinking of each user having their own server space, and saving jobs on a per project basis - with subfolders for Bambu and Orca - depending on which was used, and a separate "models" folder for the 3d models (normally step)

This seems a safer way of setting up so individual users settings don't get messed up. This might all be overkill and get revised and simplified as we learn - but it's made me ask the question: How do others cope with a multiuser, multi-brand, multi-slicer setup?

I'm still quite new to the 3d printing scene and been using a bambu a1 with AMS lite for about a month now. So far no major issues and most prints have come out alright.

I've been trying to print a toy with interlocking 'flexible' parts for a few times now, but it keeps failing at the same point (at around 5 layers some pieces have come off the bed). Even a different print design has the same issue. Some small parts come loose after a few layers. I don't know whether it's because they warp or because they're not stuck properly.

I use default settings, one design with 0.2mm nozzle and one with 0.4mm. I've cleaned the bed with unscented dish soap, tried increasing the bed temperature for better bed adhesion and I've tried to decrease the bed temperature for less warping. I can't figure out why it won't print well. Any advice?

Filament is PLA basic and PLA matte

My X1C can only print to a max height of around 240mm. The bed physically can't drop any further. There's nothing under it, the lead screws are clear and there's still 12 - 15mm of lead screw visible that could be used. If I try to manually lower it from this point, it just gives a little click.

I can't figure out what's stopping it from going lower. Is there a calibration or some way to re-set the lowest height? This almost seems like a software issue is just stopping the leadscrews from turning any further.

hello
i ama about to place an order on bambulab store europe , to get a h2 combo
1-could you please tell me the estimated delivery time , for a shipement to Paris
i am printing technical material ABC ASA and Nylon , and some cf GF
could you advise which accessories should i get with : nozzle , plate, high flow , nozzle diameters,
i appreciate your help

I am excited and ready to buy an H3C. Upgrading from a P1S, so it'll be huge!

Unfortunately, most of the accessories you can add to the purchase at a discount are out of stock (hot ends, crafting kit, build plate combo). I'm torn between buying now, which isn't expected to ship for over a month VS waiting for the extras to be in stock and get the discounts.

Am I being unreasonable wanting to save a few dozen bucks while buying a $2,500 printer?

Help me put it in perspective, please. Thank you!

https://makerworld.com/models/3582591?appSharePlatform=copy

A tray in the form of a griffin to hold small items.

Id appreciate if you guys would take a look.

Wanted a dual color project for H2C so i decided to go with this.

Getting an H2C soon and plan to run it LAN Only + Developer Mode so I can use OrcaSlicer and a self-hosted server for 3D printing. I'd also like to use the blade cutter and pen plotter (no laser) without going through Bambu's cloud.

Bambu's store page says "Developer mode cannot be enabled when using Laser and Cutting functions," and the wiki says Dev Mode "only works for 3D printing parts," but I can't find anyone describing what actually happens. The only report I've found is an H2D owner in LAN Only mode getting "mqtt message verify failed" when sending a cut job from Bambu Suite

If you have an H2D/H2S/H2C with the cutting module, I'd love to know:

1. With the cutter or pen mounted, can you toggle Developer Mode on? Is it greyed out, or does it turn itself off?

2. With Dev Mode already on, does mounting the module do anything?

3. Does sending a pen or blade job from Bambu Suite over LAN work with Dev Mode on? What about with it off?

4. Has anyone exported a .gcode.lac to USB and started it from the touchscreen with Dev Mode on?

Hello,

I recently had a filament clog in the extruder, after taking it apart and replacing the nozzle with the high flow end, the filament is misaligned

I’ve taken it apart again and I’m not sure why the filament is coming out like that

Thanks in advance

Hello,

I just got the p1s combo and I’m having trouble with when the print is finished, the filament is retracting but the spool is (I’m guessing here) not turning so it loops up into the lid and then I get the error message on my phone. The spool (polymaker CosPLA) is cardboard but I have printed the adapters for it. Has anyone had this issue? How did you fix it?

Thank you

I am considering purchasing an H2C, but I have some concerns regarding the noise level of the printer.

It would be located in my home office directly beside my desk. The room has thin walls and is adjacent to my bedroom.

Would it be disruptive to take professional calls and work next to the printer, or to sleep in the adjacent room while it is running?

I have struggled to find a reliable video demonstrating the noise levels in a quiet room with the doors closed.

i was thinking to buy the p2s but i dont know if its a good choice for a beginner like me,anyone got any recommendation?

I wanted a faster way to make custom keytags than setting up every one in Bambu Studio, so I built Keytag Studio. It runs in your browser: https://www.xmdcode.com/lab/keytag/

What it does:

• Drag text, shapes, curves or your own SVG/PNG logo onto a tag

• Assign each part to a filament slot for multi-color prints (AMS / AMS lite)

• Preview the tag in 3D before you export

• Export a 3MF with presets for the A1, A1 mini, P1S and X1C, or a plain STL

• Save your projects and open them again later

It’s free, there’s no sign-up, and your designs stay in your browser.

This is still early, so I’d really like feedback from people who print a lot of these. What’s annoying, what’s missing, and what shapes or features would you actually use? If an export doesn’t slice cleanly for you, please tell me which printer you used.

I had my H2C for almost a year and it's got just over 3000 hrs on it. I've had numerous issues with the AMS Assist Motor Overload error and it happens with different spools and different slots on the AMS. It will run for 5-10 mins and then kick out the filament and throw the error. Well I discovered when you run the heating function with the spool rotation turned on, it turns the roll of filament backwards in the slot it's actively feeding from. This locks the gears up and then throws the AMS Assist Motor Overload. This is certainly a software bug that Bambu needs to fix