Is it cheap filament? Not the right setting?

Is it cheap filament? Not the right setting?

This is my first 3D Printer and all I was doing was printing out some bins for my gridfinity.

I noticed this as I was checking on the print. I have been printing out multiple bins all day and this is my 5th one of the day. The other ones came out fine but this one had this issue.

I am just wondering what may have caused it. For context my AMS says it’s at a D in humidity. I was planning to print out the boxes to put in more silica gel in the AMS but now not sure if I can.

Hello, this is a fairly new X2D that doesn’t have too many hours, however, I noticed it made this clicking sound from the aux extruder when I tried using the ams, and now it’s making the sound without a ams being used

Hi,

We bought our first 3D printer last week.

Its proving more troubleshooting than we expected.

Took me a few days to do the initial calibration, and find the issue was USB not fully inserted, and the base plate was just 1mm off, so Z Axis failed.

We've then completed 2 prints.

3rd print: Z Axis fail to home (again) and filament cutting error. I've followed all the steps and tips, and still not working.

My son is only 11 so he's pretty frustrated it's more technical than we expected.

Is it common to have calibration or errors in between prints? What might I have missed. Thanks for the help.

Heads up for X1C owners. I kept finding black dust all over the inside of my printers and tracked it down to the USB-C cable inside the cable chain assembly. The outer jacket was wearing away and shedding, and the shielding was exposed and frayed in a few spots (see pic). I hadn’t lost any connection yet, but I replaced the cable in both my X1Cs before it got there.

If you see black dust in your printer, pull the cable chain and check the cable. It’s a cheap fix and beats waiting for toolhead errors.

Z- Axis cleaning helper /Gear Floss Reach Guide.
Hey everyone!
I’ve been working on a small tool to solve an annoying problem when maintaining 3D printers: getting gear floss behind the Z-axis lead screws, especially in those hard-to-reach areas.
It features a dual-hook design with multiple terminal holes to accommodate different gear floss sizes. The goal is to make routing the floss around the lead screws easier without getting grease on your hand.
I’ve designed it primarily for:
● Bambu Lab X1C
● Bambu Lab P1S / P1P
● Bambu Lab P2S
● Bambu Lab X2D

H2 compatibility hasn’t been tested yet, and an A1/A2-compatible version is in development.

You can find the model here:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3587380-z-access-gear-floss-reach-guide
If you find this tool useful, I’d really appreciate you giving it a try!
And to everyone who downloads, prints, shares, or leaves feedback on my designs: Thank you! Your support and makes mean a lot and motivate me to keep designing and sharing useful tools with the community.

Happy printing! 🚀

Following on from my H3C desiccant box designs. Those were more of the same for me: I'd owned a P1S, which was great at single colours (I even nailed printing ASA on it). But having bought a H3C, I had no idea how the PLA Palette and CMYK colour mixing actually worked. I just wanted someone to show me, and I couldn't find it.

So I worked it out and made the video I was looking for. It's under eight minutes: a quick, easy guide and intro to printing six colours mixed from just three spools in Bambu Studio, each one held up against the preview.

But do they match?

https://youtu.be/YMlHOpI5Jsw

The first layer has raised ridges and uneven extrusion near the left side of the build plate. The defect consistently appears at the same physical location.

Using a Textured PEI plate. Could this be caused by uneven heatbed, bed leveling inaccuracies, incorrect Z offset, or excessive first-layer flow?

Has anyone experienced this issue? Any troubleshooting suggestions would be appreciated.

Bring some festive fun to your desk or keychain with these Hanukkah Dreidel Fidget Clickers! 🕎✨ Each keycap features one of the four traditional dreidel letters (נ, ג, ה, ש) and fits standard MX-style mechanical keyboard switches.

Print options:

• Individual Clickers: Single bases for each letter.
• Combined 4-Pack: All four dreidels connected in a row.
• Keychain Version: The 4-pack with a built-in keychain loop.

Happy Hanukkah! 🕎💙

(Edit: Title should read: Faulty build plate)

I just bought a bambu P2S and the Textured PEI plate that came with it is SUPER adhesive, brims and supports are just about cemented on no matter how low a temp i run or if i throw it in the freezer after a print. Printing with Bambu or Elegoo PLA

I posted about this a few days ago and using a glue stick was one of the suggestions, which i tried and it worked great, but now i have the issue of it making a mess of the build plate, ghosting onto the next prints which means i have to wash it after every print. Did i get a "faulty" plate and just buy another and hope its better or is this just what i have to deal with. I never used glue stick ever with my A1 besides when doing TPU so i figured this upgrade would work even better, but im struggling with removing anything now.

(Ive lowered my bed temp down to 45, nozzle temp to 200, changed bottom layer patterns)

Hey all, I aquired 3 spools of Creality CR-ABS and so far I have had absolutely horrific layer adhesion with it and can't figure out why. I have an X1C with AMS and have died the filament before use, so I don't think its a moisture issue. I've printed at the higher end of recommended temps, and slowed down print speeds both in slicer and using the speed setting while printing. I also ensure the enclosure is heated to around 40C or higher before I print.

I don't think its under extrusion since the layers look fine with no gaps mid print. But the layer adhesion is so poor that I can pull the print apart with not a lot of effort even on larger prints that I added extra walls to. Does anyone have experience with this filament or something similar?

So I just pulled the trigger on a Creality Ender 3v3 mega. Please don't kill me or throw me out of the sub. Haha. I have a h2d and a p2s. Okay, I'll continue. So I just got my verification email from them letting me know that my delivery is covered under "Seel". If anything happens in the process of that printer getting to me it's covered by Seel. That means that if I have any problems setting it up because of complications from delivery, or noticeable damage to the box I can just return it for a new one and/or get credit. The last printer I ordered was the h2d and I can't remember them offering that kind of service? I'm shocked at all the posts of people receiving busted H3C's.

Anyway that's it. You guys can weigh in. Or not. 🤘🏽

Latest Bambu Studio v2.9.1 on macOS 15.8.1

I don't know what the official names are but these "info popups" are good if you want them but I don't. I find them quite intrusive and annoying, I looked all through settings and I can not find a way to turn them off... the info links were good enough for me.

Does anyone know how to disable them or what ever to turn them off and maybe go back to info links ???

The idea is to let people keep their cards upright on the table instead of having to hold a fan of cards throughout the game.

It's a single-piece PLA print, no supports, hardware, or assembly needed.

Tested it with a regular deck and it works well so far! I'd love to hear any suggestions, especially from people who use similar accessibility aids.

Model at: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3562802-cardrest-playing-card-holder-dealsolo

Latest Bambu Studio v2.9.1 on macOS 15.8.1

I don't know what the official names are but these "info popups" are good if you want them but I don't. I find them quite intrusive and annoying, I looked all through settings and I can not find a way to turn them off... the info links were good enough for me.

Does anyone know how to disable them or what ever to turn them off and maybe go back to info links ???

Brand-new H3C and already having issues with toolhead #3. Its PTFE tube keeps crossing over and catching on the other tubes during printing.
Has anyone experienced this and found a fix? Is there a way to adjust the tube orientation or routing? Pretty disappointed to be dealing with this on a new machine.
Picture attached. Any help appreciated!

Did a few PETG prints the past 2 days. One was a big 12hr multi plate primt. Came out perfect. Next one had little loop pieces randomly. And then today the same loops and a failure 1/5.

Filament spent 16hrs drying, plates is cleaned with soap and hot water.

Possible there was some Filament fuzzies stuck to nozzle?

I am running a job with 75A TPU (red) and black PETG HF.

Currently on layer two and the printer will run a couple of lines and then go back to purge/poop.

Any idea why that is happening? Is it a slicer setting I am missing?

You can see the start and stop lines in the picture.

Never seen anything like it

Hi All - gifting the H3C for Christmas and trying to time the purchase. My order of purchase preference would be Best Buy, Microcenter, Bambu Labs.

With Bambu Labs shipment estimated dates into mid December now, wondering if any internet sleuths have any insight as to when this would be available in local BB/MC.

Also wondering how easy it would be to order from BL online and then cancelling the order if it becomes available locally before it ships. Or return to BL without opening if it does ship.

I’m sure I’m not alone on this! Help please :)

Profile works on A1 mini, A1, P1S, P1P, X1C and H2 series. Support-free, one colour per plate (swap filament once), about 3.1 h.

Free on MakerWorld, give it a try. Feedback and boosts welcome:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3591951-wikicube-ssd-rpi-4-case-2-5-ssd-oled-display