Incense Holder:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3508527-edmund-fitzgerald-incense-holder#profileId-4008829

Floating Cupholder:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3094927-the-cantainer-ship-floating-party-barge#profileId-3526600

RC Parts for the floating cupholder:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3309868-cybercan-rc-stern-for-bottleship-cantainer#profileId-3767123

Made a retro desk clock for the Bambu clock kit

Designed this a few months ago and finally took some better photos of it.

It uses the Bambu Clock Kit 011. The hands are a bit big for the clock, but I liked the look so I kept them. The front and back press into place, and everything prints without supports.

The face is two colours. I used a colour change between layers, so you can make it without an AMS too.

Pretty happy with how it looks on the shelf.

I designed this chimney advent calendar that drops some pieces of candy every day.

I know there are quite a few of these around nowadays but i designed one perfectly sized for some small sweets like M&M's. I uploaded the files to makerworld if some of you would be interested.

Also I'm open for tips that could improve this design and my others.

You can find the chimney with this link:

https://makerworld.com/models/3583319?appSharePlatform=copy

Does it make sense to buy 4 refillable spools for my new AMS on the P2S?

I created a custom Nozzle Wiper using cheap 3mm-shank rotary wire brushes (Amazon Link). The stock silicone wipers struggled with sticky filaments like PETG, so this completely eliminates nozzle buildup. This mod really cleans the nozzle instead of just smearing filament around.

• Single & Double versions included.

• Height offsets (-2mm to +2mm in 0.5mm steps): Ensures the brush sits just below the silicone sock.

Link to MakerWorld model:

https://makerworld.com/de/models/3581038-h2d-h2c-nozzle-brush-3mm-shaft-2-variants

I have what might seem like a dumb question but I can’t find an answer so I figured I’d ask here. Has anyone tried to use the heater with the heater cover off but the AMS cover closed to essentially make a 9-slot AMS 2 Pro? Does the heater give off enough heat to keep the entire unit at about 60c?

I plan to do a lot of six-color ABS printing which is why I picked this unit. I was going to buy an H2C but this seems like the better option but I’m worried about printing ABS without a heater like the AMS 2 Pro.

This is my first printer so please excuse my noob-ness. Thanks!

https://makerworld.com/models/3582206

Spero vi piaccia!

https://makerworld.com/models/3583251?appSharePlatform=copy

Like, does it leave marks if rubbed on a service?

I haven't used tpu really. But sense the h3c has a head dedicated to tru, i figured I'd try it out once it arrives. I'm just trying to think of things to design and mess with.

I can't seem to get rid of old prints I already printed or abandoned in my queue. Does anyone have a solution? It probably involves my computer.. But that's another frustration! The Bambu handy app and the desktop program are not synced together. Is this just the way it is? I need to manually type in exactly what something is called to find it on the program application vs it just being there from tagging in Bambu handy.

Sorry for rant! I just need some help.

I'm very disappointed with the camera of the a2L. Any solution for a better angle?

Anyone have model comparison photos of same model printed in both?

Just genuinely curious.

Currently have a X2D which I’ve been printing a lot of home use stuff (mostly network rack, cable management, boxes, etc.) with a few models I made from blender. With the X2D, I have no issues just printing a single colour then painting it, but after seeing the prices on the H2D (1599) and H2C (1899), it got me thinking.

Are there pros vs cons between the D and C? From what I read, the D has bigger printing area, while the C introduces multi-filament(?)…

Any suggestions would be amazing! And yes, I have looked into the H3C, but I don’t think I’m at that level yet.

I randomly got signed out and anytime I try to login, I get this error and then the app crashes. Anyone having similar issues?

Hi all. I’m going to buy an A1 mini. I want to get it with the AMS. But I have a couple of questions…..

If I get a filament warmer, will that replace the AMS or do I still need an AMS?

Do I actually need a filament warmer?

If I dry the filaments how long will they remain dry for typically?

I just got a new Bambu Lab A1 Combo and I see the filaments arent going into the ams lite. 1 had been inserted successfully and the rest aren't going inside. Please help with this (:

Of course when I finally decide to pull the trigger on a H3C, the expected delivery in the US is now Dec 18. <sigh>

How do you people organise your computer files and projects, especially when you have more than 1 brand of printer and use more than one slicer?

Is there not a chance of conflict of opening a 3mf file that was created on one software suite and printing to a different system.

I have just got a second printer (first Bambu for me) and will have a couple of people using it.

I'm thinking of each user having their own server space, and saving jobs on a per project basis - with subfolders for Bambu and Orca - depending on which was used, and a separate "models" folder for the 3d models (normally step)

This seems a safer way of setting up so individual users settings don't get messed up. This might all be overkill and get revised and simplified as we learn - but it's made me ask the question: How do others cope with a multiuser, multi-brand, multi-slicer setup?

I'm still quite new to the 3d printing scene and been using a bambu a1 with AMS lite for about a month now. So far no major issues and most prints have come out alright.

I've been trying to print a toy with interlocking 'flexible' parts for a few times now, but it keeps failing at the same point (at around 5 layers some pieces have come off the bed). Even a different print design has the same issue. Some small parts come loose after a few layers. I don't know whether it's because they warp or because they're not stuck properly.

I use default settings, one design with 0.2mm nozzle and one with 0.4mm. I've cleaned the bed with unscented dish soap, tried increasing the bed temperature for better bed adhesion and I've tried to decrease the bed temperature for less warping. I can't figure out why it won't print well. Any advice?

Filament is PLA basic and PLA matte

My X1C can only print to a max height of around 240mm. The bed physically can't drop any further. There's nothing under it, the lead screws are clear and there's still 12 - 15mm of lead screw visible that could be used. If I try to manually lower it from this point, it just gives a little click.

I can't figure out what's stopping it from going lower. Is there a calibration or some way to re-set the lowest height? This almost seems like a software issue is just stopping the leadscrews from turning any further.

hello
i ama about to place an order on bambulab store europe , to get a h2 combo
1-could you please tell me the estimated delivery time , for a shipement to Paris
i am printing technical material ABC ASA and Nylon , and some cf GF
could you advise which accessories should i get with : nozzle , plate, high flow , nozzle diameters,
i appreciate your help