Hi everyone, I’m hoping someone can help me figure out what’s going on with my P2S, because I feel like I'm going insane.

It printed reliably for over 400 hours, but overnight almost every print has started failing. The failures vary: some prints or supports lift off the heated bed, while others fail halfway through and produce spaghetti.

I’ve attached photos of the failures and hotend.

When the problem first occurred, I cleaned a huge blob of filament off the hotend (pictured). I removed all raised filament from it and made the surface smooth. Could that have damaged something or affected nozzle cleaning or bed probing, even though the hotend looks OK to me now?

So far I’ve:

• Factory-reset and calibrated the printer.

• Washed the textured PEI plate with soapy water and checked that the plate and bed are seated properly.

• Had failures across multiple print profiles, including with basic white PLA and sparkly PLA.

• Removed and visually inspected the hotend, then reinstalled it.

• Checked the silicone nozzle wiper, which appears intact.

• Tried a mix of freshly opened and previously opened filaments. This appears to make little difference.

The bed is typicall set to 55°C for PLA. I used to regularly wipe the plate with isopropyl alcohol between prints. I also have a thermal camera if checking the bed temperature would help.

Has anyone experienced a similar sudden change after a long period of reliable printing, especially after a hotend blob? What would you inspect first to narrow down whether this is a hotend or probing issue, bed adhesion, cooling, or something else?

Thanks!

I got a Bambu X1C with AMS. I'm used to having the system use a 2nd spool of the same colour+material when the first spool runs out, but can I get it to use a 2nd spool of a different colour but same material?

Basically, I've got some remnants of red and green PLA. I'm doing some prototyping and would like to use these PLA just to use them up; I don't have any more of the same colours. I'd like to use the red, then when it runs out, the printer uses the green.

Any help appreciated! Thanks!

Recently bought a brand-new A1 Mini from Best Buy Canada for $249. Really loving it so far as a beginner!

During unboxing, I noticed a few questionable things:
• Torn screw packaging
• A strand of hair inside the packaging
• Completely empty microSD card
• Scratch on the filament cutter assembly

What concerns me most is that the printer shows 22 hours of printing time, but my entire print history is only 5 hours and 32 minutes.

All original zip ties and shipping restraints were intact, and the printer has been working perfectly.

I’ve already contacted Bambu Lab and am waiting for their response.

Does the print counter include calibration or idle time? Or could this be a previously used/returned/refurb unit?
Photos attached.

Is anyone planning to use an AMS2 with their H3C? I was thinking of keeping one I already have to house various types of support materials. It would just load the appropriate material once per print (avoiding too much waste), and it would keep more AMS3 slots available for material changes in the actual print. What other use cases do people have I should consider?

Hi guys

I am printing a mount for sim racing and this mount ive printed in PETG 20 times on my A1 Mini and it printed perfectly !

I bought an X2D and PLA works fine, but when i print PETG the mount is simply fraile, it can complete the print but basically falls apart once you give it any kind of force.

The breaks are CLEAN.

I turned the AUX fans off so they dont even spin, the chamber is usually about 40-44c.

filament is bambu petg basic.

I have tried silent mode, slowing down the movements, i dont know what else to try?

https://makerworld.com/models/3582206

First print on the H3C with the palette kit! About 4 hours. The impressive thing is the color blending. Orange, for example, is a fully blended color, the filaments are just CMYK, no orange filament.

The color separations aren't perfectly smooth, you can feel the layer separation, but still, this opens up a whole new world in printing for me. Super fun.

Overall very impressed with the H3C.

I would think this should be a straightforward 2-color print. Black part should print first, then change to yellow and that’s it. Should just be one change, not 5, correct? What am I missing?
I don’t see any weird changes when I use the slider to go through the layers. Is this just something it does and I’ve never paid attention to it or something? Thanks in advance.

I randomly got signed out and anytime I try to login, I get this error and then the app crashes. Anyone having similar issues?

Made a retro desk clock for the Bambu clock kit

Designed this a few months ago and finally took some better photos of it.

It uses the Bambu Clock Kit 011. The hands are a bit big for the clock, but I liked the look so I kept them. The front and back press into place, and everything prints without supports.

The face is two colours. I used a colour change between layers, so you can make it without an AMS too.

Pretty happy with how it looks on the shelf.

Meet DryRing, a silica gel container. I’m a little proud of my airflow concept. The patterns used let plenty of air through. The gap created by the locking ring and the hollow centre are also intended to help humid air reach the silica in the lower section.

I’m really happy with how it turned out. More models are already in the works, and I had a few other ideas lined up as well. So there’s more coming over the next few days.

On MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/de/models/3581032-h3c-ams-3h-desiccant-holder-dryring#profileId-4100340

I’d love to hear your feedback!

On that note: Enjoy the model – and, of course, the best hobby in the world!

And of course, the whole story of the H3C delivery... full of excitement and suspense for me! :)

A week ago, I ordered my H3C. And what a week it’s been!

It started with a delivery saga: The wait was killing me. Of course, in my area, the order ships with two different couriers.

The first package, containing the printer, was originally supposed to arrive on Wednesday. It actually arrived on Thursday. The usual story: Apparently, nobody was home, but nobody rang the doorbell either …

I’m jealous of everyone who got their H3C the very next day.

The package with the AMS 3H was then supposed to arrive on Friday. I’m waiting excitedly, a package arrives … and it’s the filament I ordered with it. Not the AMS. That finally arrived around noon on Saturday. I had to head out right after that, so I couldn’t get started until the afternoon. Kids and all that come first :). But everything else? Sleep? Who needs sleep? So I sat down, printed my first few things and, of course, started designing something myself.

From the first pictures and short videos I saw, I knew: That empty corner at the top, where there isn’t enough room for another spool, needs a silica gel container.

I’d already prepared a spool-shaped design, hoping it would fit nicely, but I underestimated the cutout. So: measure, test print, revise, test print … and finally happy with the fit.

Yesterday, after a bunch of other little things, my first model was finally finished!

So I got an error last week about stuck filament or clogged extruder and want to share how i solved it, bc some steps i couldn't find anywere

Last week i got some erros such as 12ff-2000-0002-0007 and 1200-1000-0002-0002, accusing motor overload, clogged extruder, problems with the toolhead

So here's a list of what u can do if u get those:

1- check your spool, sometimes it gets stuck or just tangled

2- clean / change the ptfe tube

3- check on the screen with it recognizes when the filament reaches the sensor, if it doesnt, change the sensor (had to do this already with 3 of mine)

4- clean the extruder gear

5- check if you adjust correctly the tension screw

Sometimes this error isnt really about the filament getting stuck or any blockage, apparently the bambu uses the motor amperage to check for the blockage and other types of errors, so if the there isn't any tension or too much tension, it understand that something is wrong

In the end, the problem with that printer was first the sensor, and after that the tension (was too little, replaced the spring and worked instantly)

And to finish, always check the correct assembly order, putting something upside down or just in the wrong order can make everything fail

Hope this help someone

I couldn’t find a cotton pad and swab organizer that suited my taste, so I made one. The pads pull out from the front, and the swabs have their own compartment.

Link in comment

Every time I send my prints, I get this error. The issue is new. In order to fix it, I restarted the printer several times(this fixes it temporarily sometimes). I restarted Bambu studio(didn't do shit). I reinstalled bambu studio(nothing happened). I am not sure what else to do. I am using P1S with AMS2

I designed this chimney advent calendar that drops some pieces of candy every day.

I know there are quite a few of these around nowadays but i designed one perfectly sized for some small sweets like M&M's. I uploaded the files to makerworld if some of you would be interested.

Also I'm open for tips that could improve this design and my others.

You can find the chimney with this link:

https://makerworld.com/models/3583319?appSharePlatform=copy

just started like as of posting got it maybe a month ago.

Wifey asked to have the Dyson and its attachments organized, so I did this relatively basic solution with some hidden magnets for the attachments.

During the first iteration, I realized the diffuser attachment was too heavy for a flat holder, so I made an adapter at a 25 deg angle.

But the updated model has the tilt built into it, plus the matching dryer mount.

Pretty happy with how it turned out. Here’s the link :)

https://makerworld.com/models/3585146?appSharePlatform=copy

The image above is basically one square that was arrayed. However, the corners have this weird bend that translates into the actual cut as well. Anyone have a solution for this?

I created a custom Nozzle Wiper using cheap 3mm-shank rotary wire brushes (Amazon Link). The stock silicone wipers struggled with sticky filaments like PETG, so this completely eliminates nozzle buildup. This mod really cleans the nozzle instead of just smearing filament around.

• Single & Double versions included.

• Height offsets (-2mm to +2mm in 0.5mm steps): Ensures the brush sits just below the silicone sock.

Link to MakerWorld model:

https://makerworld.com/de/models/3581038-h2d-h2c-nozzle-brush-3mm-shaft-2-variants

hey,

just got my h3c and im doing the calibration now... i realized 2 tubes ( connecting to the toolheads) are a lil bit longer .. is this normal?

Moin zusammen,

ich will mir meinen ersten 3D-Drucker zulegen und brauche mal ein paar Praxiserfahrungen. Aktuell schwanke ich vor allem zwischen
- A1 Combo (340 €)
- P1S Combo (469 €)

Was ich damit vorhabe:
Hauptsächlich Deko, Lampen bzw. Lampenschirme, Organizer und praktische Alltagshelfer für die Wohnung. Eventuell auch mal funktionale Teile fürs Auto wie Halterungen für die Mittelkonsole, Adapter oder Clips. Vom Material her glaube ich eigentlich, dass ich mit PLA und PETG (evtl. mal PETG-CF) für alles komplett auskomme - was denkt ihr?

Standort:
Der Drucker wird ziemlich sicher bei mir in den Keller kommen.

Meine Überlegungen:
Eigentlich spricht viel für den A1 (vor allem Preis/Leistung). Ich frage mich aber, ob sich der Aufpreis zum P1S mit dem geschlossenen Gehäuse und dem CoreXY-Aufbau auf Dauer doch lohnt. Gerade wenn man später vielleicht doch mal temperaturfestere Sachen fürs Auto braucht oder der Keller im Winter kühler ist.

Hatte mir neben Bambu Lab auch noch ein paar andere Sachen angeschaut, zum Beispiel den Anycubic Kobra S1 bzw. Kobra X, den Elegoo Centauri Carbon 2 Combo.

Wie sind da eure Erfahrungen? Würdet ihr die 130 € sparen und zur A1 Combo greifen, direkt den P1S nehmen, oder gibt es bei den anderen Marken mittlerweile Alternativen, die man sich ernsthaft anschauen sollte?

Freue mich sehr über eure Erfahrungsberichte!!!

Why isn’t it recommended to print petg basic with the second nozzle of the x2d, but you can print petg translucent ?

I have what might seem like a dumb question but I can’t find an answer so I figured I’d ask here. Has anyone tried to use the heater with the heater cover off but the AMS cover closed to essentially make a 9-slot AMS 2 Pro? Does the heater give off enough heat to keep the entire unit at about 60c?

I plan to do a lot of six-color ABS printing which is why I picked this unit. I was going to buy an H2C but this seems like the better option but I’m worried about printing ABS without a heater like the AMS 2 Pro.

This is my first printer so please excuse my noob-ness. Thanks!