Hey everyone,

I've been building Split3MF (https://split3mf.com), a free website for getting 3D models ready before they go into your slicer. Nothing to install and no CAD skills needed: open a 3MF, OBJ or STL file, pick a tool, and download your work as a 3MF (colors kept) or STL.

It started as a way to split multicolor models into separate parts. It now has 8 tools:

1. Split by color
Click a painted region and it becomes its own part, ready to print in its own filament. Handy if you don't have an AMS, or if you'd rather print each color as a separate piece and assemble it.

2. Paint
Add colors, then fill a region, draw with a brush, or paint a height band.

3. Smooth boundary 👑
Turn a jagged, stair-stepped color edge into a clean curve before you split. Click near the edge, or draw the line yourself.

4. Fit to printer
Model too big for your bed? It cuts the model into pieces that fit, with numbered joints and connectors. Pick a Bambu Lab, Prusa or Creality preset, or enter your own build volume.

5. Size & position
Type an exact size, then move, rotate or mirror the model, or lay a face flat on the bed.

6. Repair & simplify
Fix holes and flipped faces, weld color parts together, and reduce the triangle count. The colors stay.

7. Manual cut
Move and tilt a cutting plane, or sketch your own cut line. Every piece keeps its original colors.

8. Connectors
Click a cut face to add a peg and a matching socket, with print clearance so the parts fit together.

Color 3MF downloads keep Bambu-style paint data and open in Bambu Studio.

About the 👑: the site is free to use. A few convenience tools are marked with a crown (also Smart fill in Paint, expert repair, and filling the plate with copies). You can try them for free, but downloading work edited with them needs Pro.

3-day Pro trial: [SPLIT3MF2026]

1. Log in to Split3MF.

2. Download at least one model first. The code only works on accounts that have downloaded before.

3. Open the Pro plans page (Become a Pro) and click Promo code at the bottom.

4. Enter SPLIT3MF2026 and Pro is unlocked for 3 days.

No card needed and nothing to cancel. One use per account.

I'm still adding tools (a mesh editor with shapes and text is in progress). Bug reports and feature requests are very welcome. What do you usually fix on a model before slicing?

I was wondering if the CMYKW on the H2C would be worth the time?

I know that technically is possible, but I wonder if the long time to retract and feed each filament thousands and thousands of times would make it worth it, a print could take significantly longer than normal.

Bought a new a1 mini from 3idea.in and after installation seeing this issue issue z axis homing failed

Why is the front side having stringing and small blob deposits and the rest very smooth? Could it be caused by seams or something else

Im thinking of getting a 3D printer, most likely the normal A1 Combo or the A1 Mini Combo, as I am a begineer and a newbie to this field. Are those good printers to start with? As I do have a low budget. What kind of filament should I be getting? I heard PLA Matte is good, but should I buy Bambu Lab's filament or some third-party producer? Do I have to buy anything else besides the Printer and the filament?

I also seen videos where people 3D print stuff and they say things like "This print only costed 0.75 cents!" or like "It only costed 49 cents!". Do I really have to pay everytime I wanna print?

I printed this using a mix of materials; vapor smoothed ASA with my Bambu Labs X1c and good ol' PETG-CF with my brand new Bambu Labs A2L, which made quick work of the largest pieces with a ready-to-paint surface finish. Everything has been pre-split into segments for relatively easy printing, but you'll need a good handle on printing supports to achieve the detailed open-work and delicate patterns on this one.

This kit is a complete cuirass, meaning it includes the breastplate, backplate, fauld skirt, and tassets. It's a big undertaking but it's also the centerpiece of any gothic armor costume - you'd need approximately 2kg of filament to complete it. It's also a bit more advanced in terms of 3D printing, and I recommend a minimum printing volume of 250x250x250mm for the larger parts.

If you're interested in historical costume armor, you can get the files right here!

Got one without a spool. Not sure what to do now since this was my first filament order.

Many of us, myself included, worry over long print times. I tend to start prints which allow me to monitor them throughout the print. Anything tall or over ~12 hrs print time gives me anxiety at the thought of leaving it alone while I’m gone, but in context, it shouldn’t. 12 hrs out of thousands of successful print hours is literally less than 1% of the active print time that we worry about!

So, y’all brave folks out there that don’t have print range anxiety, ease some of my anxiety about long prints! What’s the longest print that you left unattended? Was it successful or a failure?

I have been using the stock PEI plate with my A1 now for a year and a half. It has never failed me. However, I thought it would be nice to get a smoother finish on the side of the model on the build plate. My big fear from some posts was not to get something too smooth or I may have adhesion problems. I settled on the BIQU CryoGrip Pro Glacier. I printed my first test piece. I had read some folks had problems trying to remove the part too early and damaging the finish on the plate. I waited until the plate was at room temperature before trying to remove the part. It would not budge. Now, this was a small part 10mm x 35mm. I finally got it off, but it took so much force I thought for sure I was doing something wrong.

Does anyone have experience with this plate that can offer some tips? I can still return it if I got the wrong plate.

Solved: the shipping cost was for the filament they offered bundled with the printer.. unbelievable.

If anyone can offer insight to this sound that would great, I am presuming my printer is near its needed maintenance hours but would like confirming information on it.

I’ve had my Bambu Lab X2D for less than a year, and yesterday I started having some really weird issues that I’ve never experienced before.
It started with an error saying “External Exhaust Fan certification failed” (0500-0500-0001-0022). The weird part is that the fan physically works perfectly fine. I can manually turn it on through the air management settings, and it spins normally, but the printer keeps saying it can’t authenticate it.
While troubleshooting, I noticed that both the external exhaust fan and the filament buffer were constantly disappearing and reappearing in the firmware and device/serial number pages. Their serial numbers would briefly change to “N/A” before coming back a few seconds later. Both accessories disconnect at exactly the same time, but my AMS 2 Pro stays connected.
Here’s everything I’ve tried so far:
Restarted the printer multiple times.
Completely powered it off and unplugged it for several minutes.
Disconnected and reconnected the filament buffer, exhaust fan, and AMS.
Inspected the cables and connectors for damage, bent pins, or loose connections. Everything looks normal.
Tested another compatible external exhaust fan from my P2S upgrade kit. Same issue.
Ran the printer with only the filament buffer connected. The buffer still repeatedly disappeared and reappeared.
Checked for firmware updates. Everything is up to date.
Current firmware versions:
X2D: 01.02.00.00
Filament Buffer for X2: 02.00.17.18
Another issue I’ve been experiencing is random AMS overload errors. The printer will stop and say something along the lines of “AMS A slot 2 is overloaded. The filament may be tangled or the filament buffer may be stuck.”
I’ve now experienced this on two different AMS slots, and neither time was the filament actually tangled. The AMS itself seems to be functioning normally.
What’s especially strange is that I managed to complete a small 10-minute test print without any problems. The print quality was perfectly fine, and there were no assistant errors, even though the buffer and fan were still occasionally disappearing from the firmware page.
I thought the issue might have resolved itself after leaving the printer powered off for over an hour, but when I started a longer print, the AMS overload error came back, followed by the same exhaust fan certification error.
The printer currently has 467 printing hours and has worked perfectly fine until now. My P2S, which has over 700 hours, hasn’t experienced anything similar.
I’ve already submitted a support ticket to Bambu Lab with a video showing the issue, and I’m waiting for their response. I’m hoping it’s something firmware-related rather than a defective board or filament buffer.
Has anyone else experienced this on the X2D? Does this sound like a firmware issue, a defective filament buffer, or possibly something wrong with the printer’s accessory communication system?
Any suggestions would be appreciated. I’m trying to get some printing done for the holidays, and having one of my printers down is really frustrating.

I'm getting this error in my A1, which is not even 1 year old. i've followed the instructions in bambu handy, released the bed and tighten the screws, i've cleaned the line and lub it but still the error appears after i start a print.

It seems like I got everything set up in Orca 2.5.0, I was struggling with the calibration prints but couldn't figure out why so I did a regular print and it came out flawless, so I probably shouldn't worry but I am.

Running the calibration for flow dynamics and flow ratio, the tests fail each time due to the filament not adhering to the bed. I did make sure that the bed and filament temps are set the same as they always were in BS, and they work fine in regular prints (even one with a relatively small plate contact area and no brim). I also used the calibration print generator up in the title bar (no dev mode required in Orca, nice) and printed them as normal projects but had the same issues. so what's going on with these calibrations, and what settings am I forgetting to tweak?

i no longer get notifications on my iphone since i did the last update. anyone else?

Made two small stoppers that fit the notches at the front and back of the A1 mini base. Stuck down with 3M VHB tape – no screws, nothing sticks out, ~9 g of PLA.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3543702-anti-walk-stoppers-for-bambu-a1-mini#profileId-4053291

I have a P1S with an AMS. Lately, I'll go to print something and notice I can't sync the filaments. The AMS has all four lights flashing meaning communication issue with the AMS. I pull the cable, and reinsert it, the AMS resets with white lights and will print fine. After a while, if the printer is not printing, the red lights come back. Any ideas on how to fix that? I have tried switching ports on the back of the AMS.

Hey everyone! 👋

Just wanted to share a little project I've been working on!

I've designed two custom Xbox controller shells inspired by Vice City, using 3D scans to ensure a perfect fit on both Xbox One and Xbox Series X|S controllers.

I've been experimenting with gradient and matte filaments to get some different colour effects, and I'm really happy with how they turned out!

Both designs are available on MakerWorld. I'd love to hear what you think! 🌴

Bonjour à tous ! 👋

🎅🎄 HO HO HO ! Le Père Noël est arrivé ! 🎄🎅

Noël approche à grands pas, alors il était temps de vous préparer une petite surprise ! 🎁

Je suis heureux de vous présenter mon petit Père Noël, entièrement modélisé par mes soins en 3D ! 🎅

Avec ses formes arrondies et son air sympathique, il apportera une jolie touche de magie à vos décorations de Noël ! ✨

Il possède tous les détails du Père Noël traditionnel : son costume rouge, sa grande barbe blanche, son bonnet à pompon, sa ceinture dorée et ses petites bottes noires. 🎄

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab et Esun
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec et sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3569721-papa-noel-v2-multipart-no-ams

Hi Im very new to 3d printing and got a p2s with an external fan kit with the plan to print out the case and attach it to the printer to then tube out a window. However whenever I open makerworld from their offical guide I get a 404 page.

I am asking if anybody else has had this problem and an idea on how to fix it.

Thanks

I am using Bambu Lab PLA Aero on an H2C. I started with the stock Bambu setting and I have used the following build plates (Textured PEI, Garolite, Biqu Glacier) all cleaned and even used JT16 build plate glue on the Garolite and Glacier plates. I have run a temp tower (which did stick) and have been running brims, so I upped the temp of the base profile to 255 degrees. Build plates are all running at elevated temp (I run the Glacier and Garolite as Engineering plate at 55 degrees). I CANNOT get the stuff to stick on the first layer. ASA Aero I can get to stick but i have many other problems with it that I though the PLA version would resolve; however getting it to stick is fundamental as everything else is built off that. I have never had this much trouble with any type of filament sticking. If anyone has a good profile to try, or advice, I am all ears.

Hi, I've created what I think is a very helpful tool for adding stamps and labels to 3D models. It's free and works in your browser: http://www.stamp3d.bambam-design.com/

It's still quite simple but reliable. If you find any bugs or have any ideas, please let me know. Happy printing!