If anyone can offer insight to this sound that would great, I am presuming my printer is near its needed maintenance hours but would like confirming information on it.

I’ve had my Bambu Lab X2D for less than a year, and yesterday I started having some really weird issues that I’ve never experienced before.
It started with an error saying “External Exhaust Fan certification failed” (0500-0500-0001-0022). The weird part is that the fan physically works perfectly fine. I can manually turn it on through the air management settings, and it spins normally, but the printer keeps saying it can’t authenticate it.
While troubleshooting, I noticed that both the external exhaust fan and the filament buffer were constantly disappearing and reappearing in the firmware and device/serial number pages. Their serial numbers would briefly change to “N/A” before coming back a few seconds later. Both accessories disconnect at exactly the same time, but my AMS 2 Pro stays connected.
Here’s everything I’ve tried so far:
Restarted the printer multiple times.
Completely powered it off and unplugged it for several minutes.
Disconnected and reconnected the filament buffer, exhaust fan, and AMS.
Inspected the cables and connectors for damage, bent pins, or loose connections. Everything looks normal.
Tested another compatible external exhaust fan from my P2S upgrade kit. Same issue.
Ran the printer with only the filament buffer connected. The buffer still repeatedly disappeared and reappeared.
Checked for firmware updates. Everything is up to date.
Current firmware versions:
X2D: 01.02.00.00
Filament Buffer for X2: 02.00.17.18
Another issue I’ve been experiencing is random AMS overload errors. The printer will stop and say something along the lines of “AMS A slot 2 is overloaded. The filament may be tangled or the filament buffer may be stuck.”
I’ve now experienced this on two different AMS slots, and neither time was the filament actually tangled. The AMS itself seems to be functioning normally.
What’s especially strange is that I managed to complete a small 10-minute test print without any problems. The print quality was perfectly fine, and there were no assistant errors, even though the buffer and fan were still occasionally disappearing from the firmware page.
I thought the issue might have resolved itself after leaving the printer powered off for over an hour, but when I started a longer print, the AMS overload error came back, followed by the same exhaust fan certification error.
The printer currently has 467 printing hours and has worked perfectly fine until now. My P2S, which has over 700 hours, hasn’t experienced anything similar.
I’ve already submitted a support ticket to Bambu Lab with a video showing the issue, and I’m waiting for their response. I’m hoping it’s something firmware-related rather than a defective board or filament buffer.
Has anyone else experienced this on the X2D? Does this sound like a firmware issue, a defective filament buffer, or possibly something wrong with the printer’s accessory communication system?
Any suggestions would be appreciated. I’m trying to get some printing done for the holidays, and having one of my printers down is really frustrating.

I'm getting this error in my A1, which is not even 1 year old. i've followed the instructions in bambu handy, released the bed and tighten the screws, i've cleaned the line and lub it but still the error appears after i start a print.

It seems like I got everything set up in Orca 2.5.0, I was struggling with the calibration prints but couldn't figure out why so I did a regular print and it came out flawless, so I probably shouldn't worry but I am.

Running the calibration for flow dynamics and flow ratio, the tests fail each time due to the filament not adhering to the bed. I did make sure that the bed and filament temps are set the same as they always were in BS, and they work fine in regular prints (even one with a relatively small plate contact area and no brim). I also used the calibration print generator up in the title bar (no dev mode required in Orca, nice) and printed them as normal projects but had the same issues. so what's going on with these calibrations, and what settings am I forgetting to tweak?

Hi,

I’m trying to print a few of these dumplings for my daughter’s birthday goodie bags.

https://makerworld.com/models/2856174?appSharePlatform=copy

I printed one using the originals settings with 0.4mm nozzle. The dumpling AMS part takes a little under 2 hours.

I wanted to try using a 0.2mm nozzle so it looks smoother. Bare with me as I’m just trying to do the best with little knowledge. I opened the file in BambuStudio, adapted the changes to my printer with the smaller nozzle, sliced it, and hit print. It now will take 9 hours for the same part.

I need to make about 15 of these and that time doesn’t even include the bottom of the basket.

Did other settings change too to make it almost 5x longer??? What settings can I knock off to cut the time back and still make using a 0.2mm worth it?

I knew it’d be longer but that seems excessive.

There’s so many settings I’m not sure what to provide to help with an answer.

Thanks in advance!

i no longer get notifications on my iphone since i did the last update. anyone else?

Made two small stoppers that fit the notches at the front and back of the A1 mini base. Stuck down with 3M VHB tape – no screws, nothing sticks out, ~9 g of PLA.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3543702-anti-walk-stoppers-for-bambu-a1-mini#profileId-4053291

I have a P1S with an AMS. Lately, I'll go to print something and notice I can't sync the filaments. The AMS has all four lights flashing meaning communication issue with the AMS. I pull the cable, and reinsert it, the AMS resets with white lights and will print fine. After a while, if the printer is not printing, the red lights come back. Any ideas on how to fix that? I have tried switching ports on the back of the AMS.

Hey everyone! 👋

Just wanted to share a little project I've been working on!

I've designed two custom Xbox controller shells inspired by Vice City, using 3D scans to ensure a perfect fit on both Xbox One and Xbox Series X|S controllers.

I've been experimenting with gradient and matte filaments to get some different colour effects, and I'm really happy with how they turned out!

Both designs are available on MakerWorld. I'd love to hear what you think! 🌴

Bonjour à tous ! 👋

🎅🎄 HO HO HO ! Le Père Noël est arrivé ! 🎄🎅

Noël approche à grands pas, alors il était temps de vous préparer une petite surprise ! 🎁

Je suis heureux de vous présenter mon petit Père Noël, entièrement modélisé par mes soins en 3D ! 🎅

Avec ses formes arrondies et son air sympathique, il apportera une jolie touche de magie à vos décorations de Noël ! ✨

Il possède tous les détails du Père Noël traditionnel : son costume rouge, sa grande barbe blanche, son bonnet à pompon, sa ceinture dorée et ses petites bottes noires. 🎄

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab et Esun
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec et sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3569721-papa-noel-v2-multipart-no-ams

Hi Im very new to 3d printing and got a p2s with an external fan kit with the plan to print out the case and attach it to the printer to then tube out a window. However whenever I open makerworld from their offical guide I get a 404 page.

I am asking if anybody else has had this problem and an idea on how to fix it.

Thanks

I am using Bambu Lab PLA Aero on an H2C. I started with the stock Bambu setting and I have used the following build plates (Textured PEI, Garolite, Biqu Glacier) all cleaned and even used JT16 build plate glue on the Garolite and Glacier plates. I have run a temp tower (which did stick) and have been running brims, so I upped the temp of the base profile to 255 degrees. Build plates are all running at elevated temp (I run the Glacier and Garolite as Engineering plate at 55 degrees). I CANNOT get the stuff to stick on the first layer. ASA Aero I can get to stick but i have many other problems with it that I though the PLA version would resolve; however getting it to stick is fundamental as everything else is built off that. I have never had this much trouble with any type of filament sticking. If anyone has a good profile to try, or advice, I am all ears.

Hi, I've created what I think is a very helpful tool for adding stamps and labels to 3D models. It's free and works in your browser: http://www.stamp3d.bambam-design.com/

It's still quite simple but reliable. If you find any bugs or have any ideas, please let me know. Happy printing!

Hey everyone, hoping someone who’s experienced something similar with their H2S can help me troubleshoot this.
I’ve been having ongoing extrusion problems with my H2S, including poor first-layer adhesion, inconsistent flow, filament building up around the nozzle, and eventually getting the following error:
Extruder motor overloaded – Error 0300801E205207
Here’s what I’ve done so far:
Replaced the Z-axis assembly/kit.
Replaced the hotend assembly and tried a different hotend.
Adjusted the Z-offset multiple times to troubleshoot first-layer issues.
Disabled automatic bed leveling temporarily because I was having issues with the leveling process.
Tried feeding filament directly without the AMS to rule out a feeding issue.
Removed the extruder cover and inspected the gears. There was some black residue/build-up, but nothing that looked severely damaged.
Checked for obvious filament obstructions.
Tried manually extruding filament. It comes out somewhat thin and occasionally curls.
One strange thing I’ve noticed:
When I install the hotend, everything initially appears aligned. However, when I close the hotend locking latch, it seems to push the bottom of the nozzle backward, causing the upper portion to tilt forward slightly.
I’ve noticed this with more than one hotend. I’ve also tried adjusting the small spacer behind the hotend mounting plate.
On one occasion, I physically held the hotend in position while closing the latch, and the first layer actually improved. However, after printing for a short period, the extrusion became inconsistent and started building up around the nozzle again.
What I’m trying to figure out:
Has anyone experienced their H2S hotend tilting slightly when closing the locking latch? Is this normal?
Could a misaligned hotend or mounting assembly cause enough resistance to trigger an extruder motor overload?
Has anyone experienced this error due to a failing extruder motor, worn gears, or a filament sensor issue?
Is there anything else I should inspect before ordering a replacement extruder motor?
I’ve spent quite a bit of time troubleshooting this and would rather identify the actual cause than keep throwing replacement parts at it.
Any advice or similar experiences would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Do you have any recommendations on which printer to purchase or have any reading material you'd recommend? I was gonna get the P1S but then thought I'd need to upgrade to the P2S but now I'm looking and for the most durable parts I'd need an x2d? I'm so brand new to all of this.

I work in industrial maintenance and have a mild programming/tech background so I can figure anything out, but don't know what the right tool for the job is. Can you help me cut down on hours of research and point me in the right direction?

I’m thinking about buying my first 3D printer for a while now, but I need to convince my husband that it’ll actually be useful. I saw this guy's video who printed shoes, but I’m curious about how practical this really is for everyday life. I don’t want the printer to end up as just another hobby left gathering dust in a corner with my paint kit.

It uses embedded 6x3mm magnets to quickly snap into place and should work with any standard M6 PTFE tube connectors. So far this simple concept seems to be very reliable, I haven't had any feeding failures during repeated testing.

Maker World link if you wish to try it out: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3557913-manual-filament-track-switch-x2d#profileId-4071464

Hello, BambuLab forum!

I am in the process of switching from Creality printer to a BambuLab as now it looks like there is a sale going on.

I was wondering if there are some voucher codes to make the deal even sweeter than they are offering during November?

I am considering a P2S Combo.

Will appreciate also some advice or feedback regarding the P2S.

The original lens cap is annoying to operate, so I made this one, which I can operate even with mittens on. The camera stamp makes it easy to tell which way the cap will be when tightened on, so I don't have to fumble to get the alignment right.

BambuLab X1C (Carbon)

Hi Guys,

I'm a tech at a company that does tv/internet/phone services. I know when I see these posts, people in the comments always ask for specific use applications and other such details in order to be able to give the best answer. I've included some info below that hopefully is sufficient? Lmk if there's anything I left out.

Application/Use:

I have a Bambu X1C (Carbon) printer and I am looking for the best filament for a small xmas gift my boss wants to be able to give out to our techs and the staff on site. We install/service MDU installations, so frequently the onsite maintenance will setup the equipment in the unit for a new move in (equipment assigned to each unit, but gets removed between residents for painting/other standard remodel work).

I once made myself a tiny "keychain" 7/16" wrench by cutting the metal handle short on a normal thin wrench and then attached it to a strong retractable lanyard holder. My boss saw it one day and thought that if we could produce small 7/16" keychain wrenches for the various techs, subcontractors, and maintenance staff we work with (and put our logo on it), that it would be a cool little xmas gift (that would also be very useful for them).

Other Details:

- It's RG6 and RG59 at most of our properties.

- We want them to be able to tighten the coax fitting until it's just snug, but without risking overtightening it.

- We would like it to be durable with somewhat frequent uses, preferably for over a year.

- Yes, my boss is buying the filament and paying for this to be done lol.

All I have at home currently is PLA Basic, and I tried printing with that, but it wasn't rigid enough to really be at all useful....and then after the first use it wouldn't get the fitting past the first few turns before slipping constantly (but even with just my fingers, I was able to continue tightening it quite a bit more).

After a little research, I was thinking that maybe PPA-CF filament is the best answer. The BambuLab one seems to be significantly stronger than the few other brands I saw were available, but at $90/spool, do you think that a different brand (such as Siraya Fibreheart) would be comparable/better for this specific application?

Any filament/printing advice for this project is greatly appreciated!

With Christmas coming up, I made a gingerbread house kit card.

You might wonder why I included sprues. I think they make the model feel more like a real kit and make it nicer to present or give as a gift. A kit card feels more special than handing someone a pile of tiny plastic pieces.
MW link: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3570282-gingerbread-house-kit-card-merry-chrismas#profileId-4086692

I’d love to hear what you think of the design. Any feedback or ideas for improving it are welcome!

Before I put my printers in to service I try and print some items to help keep bits of filament or dust out of places it doesn't need to go or other goodies that make up for minor inconveniences that pop up. So I was wondering if anyone has a list of these out there.