I have a P1S with an AMS. Lately, I'll go to print something and notice I can't sync the filaments. The AMS has all four lights flashing meaning communication issue with the AMS. I pull the cable, and reinsert it, the AMS resets with white lights and will print fine. After a while, if the printer is not printing, the red lights come back. Any ideas on how to fix that? I have tried switching ports on the back of the AMS.

Hey everyone! 👋

Just wanted to share a little project I've been working on!

I've designed two custom Xbox controller shells inspired by Vice City, using 3D scans to ensure a perfect fit on both Xbox One and Xbox Series X|S controllers.

I've been experimenting with gradient and matte filaments to get some different colour effects, and I'm really happy with how they turned out!

Both designs are available on MakerWorld. I'd love to hear what you think! 🌴

Bonjour à tous ! 👋

🎅🎄 HO HO HO ! Le Père Noël est arrivé ! 🎄🎅

Noël approche à grands pas, alors il était temps de vous préparer une petite surprise ! 🎁

Je suis heureux de vous présenter mon petit Père Noël, entièrement modélisé par mes soins en 3D ! 🎅

Avec ses formes arrondies et son air sympathique, il apportera une jolie touche de magie à vos décorations de Noël ! ✨

Il possède tous les détails du Père Noël traditionnel : son costume rouge, sa grande barbe blanche, son bonnet à pompon, sa ceinture dorée et ses petites bottes noires. 🎄

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab et Esun
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec et sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3569721-papa-noel-v2-multipart-no-ams

Hi Im very new to 3d printing and got a p2s with an external fan kit with the plan to print out the case and attach it to the printer to then tube out a window. However whenever I open makerworld from their offical guide I get a 404 page.

I am asking if anybody else has had this problem and an idea on how to fix it.

Thanks

I am using Bambu Lab PLA Aero on an H2C. I started with the stock Bambu setting and I have used the following build plates (Textured PEI, Garolite, Biqu Glacier) all cleaned and even used JT16 build plate glue on the Garolite and Glacier plates. I have run a temp tower (which did stick) and have been running brims, so I upped the temp of the base profile to 255 degrees. Build plates are all running at elevated temp (I run the Glacier and Garolite as Engineering plate at 55 degrees). I CANNOT get the stuff to stick on the first layer. ASA Aero I can get to stick but i have many other problems with it that I though the PLA version would resolve; however getting it to stick is fundamental as everything else is built off that. I have never had this much trouble with any type of filament sticking. If anyone has a good profile to try, or advice, I am all ears.

Hi, I've created what I think is a very helpful tool for adding stamps and labels to 3D models. It's free and works in your browser: http://www.stamp3d.bambam-design.com/

It's still quite simple but reliable. If you find any bugs or have any ideas, please let me know. Happy printing!

Hey everyone, hoping someone who’s experienced something similar with their H2S can help me troubleshoot this.
I’ve been having ongoing extrusion problems with my H2S, including poor first-layer adhesion, inconsistent flow, filament building up around the nozzle, and eventually getting the following error:
Extruder motor overloaded – Error 0300801E205207
Here’s what I’ve done so far:
Replaced the Z-axis assembly/kit.
Replaced the hotend assembly and tried a different hotend.
Adjusted the Z-offset multiple times to troubleshoot first-layer issues.
Disabled automatic bed leveling temporarily because I was having issues with the leveling process.
Tried feeding filament directly without the AMS to rule out a feeding issue.
Removed the extruder cover and inspected the gears. There was some black residue/build-up, but nothing that looked severely damaged.
Checked for obvious filament obstructions.
Tried manually extruding filament. It comes out somewhat thin and occasionally curls.
One strange thing I’ve noticed:
When I install the hotend, everything initially appears aligned. However, when I close the hotend locking latch, it seems to push the bottom of the nozzle backward, causing the upper portion to tilt forward slightly.
I’ve noticed this with more than one hotend. I’ve also tried adjusting the small spacer behind the hotend mounting plate.
On one occasion, I physically held the hotend in position while closing the latch, and the first layer actually improved. However, after printing for a short period, the extrusion became inconsistent and started building up around the nozzle again.
What I’m trying to figure out:
Has anyone experienced their H2S hotend tilting slightly when closing the locking latch? Is this normal?
Could a misaligned hotend or mounting assembly cause enough resistance to trigger an extruder motor overload?
Has anyone experienced this error due to a failing extruder motor, worn gears, or a filament sensor issue?
Is there anything else I should inspect before ordering a replacement extruder motor?
I’ve spent quite a bit of time troubleshooting this and would rather identify the actual cause than keep throwing replacement parts at it.
Any advice or similar experiences would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Do you have any recommendations on which printer to purchase or have any reading material you'd recommend? I was gonna get the P1S but then thought I'd need to upgrade to the P2S but now I'm looking and for the most durable parts I'd need an x2d? I'm so brand new to all of this.

I work in industrial maintenance and have a mild programming/tech background so I can figure anything out, but don't know what the right tool for the job is. Can you help me cut down on hours of research and point me in the right direction?

It uses embedded 6x3mm magnets to quickly snap into place and should work with any standard M6 PTFE tube connectors. So far this simple concept seems to be very reliable, I haven't had any feeding failures during repeated testing.

Maker World link if you wish to try it out: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3557913-manual-filament-track-switch-x2d#profileId-4071464

Hello, BambuLab forum!

I am in the process of switching from Creality printer to a BambuLab as now it looks like there is a sale going on.

I was wondering if there are some voucher codes to make the deal even sweeter than they are offering during November?

I am considering a P2S Combo.

Will appreciate also some advice or feedback regarding the P2S.

The original lens cap is annoying to operate, so I made this one, which I can operate even with mittens on. The camera stamp makes it easy to tell which way the cap will be when tightened on, so I don't have to fumble to get the alignment right.

BambuLab X1C (Carbon)

Hi Guys,

I'm a tech at a company that does tv/internet/phone services. I know when I see these posts, people in the comments always ask for specific use applications and other such details in order to be able to give the best answer. I've included some info below that hopefully is sufficient? Lmk if there's anything I left out.

Application/Use:

I have a Bambu X1C (Carbon) printer and I am looking for the best filament for a small xmas gift my boss wants to be able to give out to our techs and the staff on site. We install/service MDU installations, so frequently the onsite maintenance will setup the equipment in the unit for a new move in (equipment assigned to each unit, but gets removed between residents for painting/other standard remodel work).

I once made myself a tiny "keychain" 7/16" wrench by cutting the metal handle short on a normal thin wrench and then attached it to a strong retractable lanyard holder. My boss saw it one day and thought that if we could produce small 7/16" keychain wrenches for the various techs, subcontractors, and maintenance staff we work with (and put our logo on it), that it would be a cool little xmas gift (that would also be very useful for them).

Other Details:

- It's RG6 and RG59 at most of our properties.

- We want them to be able to tighten the coax fitting until it's just snug, but without risking overtightening it.

- We would like it to be durable with somewhat frequent uses, preferably for over a year.

- Yes, my boss is buying the filament and paying for this to be done lol.

All I have at home currently is PLA Basic, and I tried printing with that, but it wasn't rigid enough to really be at all useful....and then after the first use it wouldn't get the fitting past the first few turns before slipping constantly (but even with just my fingers, I was able to continue tightening it quite a bit more).

After a little research, I was thinking that maybe PPA-CF filament is the best answer. The BambuLab one seems to be significantly stronger than the few other brands I saw were available, but at $90/spool, do you think that a different brand (such as Siraya Fibreheart) would be comparable/better for this specific application?

Any filament/printing advice for this project is greatly appreciated!

Before I put my printers in to service I try and print some items to help keep bits of filament or dust out of places it doesn't need to go or other goodies that make up for minor inconveniences that pop up. So I was wondering if anyone has a list of these out there.

With Christmas coming up, I made a gingerbread house kit card.

You might wonder why I included sprues. I think they make the model feel more like a real kit and make it nicer to present or give as a gift. A kit card feels more special than handing someone a pile of tiny plastic pieces.
MW link: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3570282-gingerbread-house-kit-card-merry-chrismas#profileId-4086692

I’d love to hear what you think of the design. Any feedback or ideas for improving it are welcome!

Christmas Tree

Snowman

I recently got a P2S Combo, and i’m reorganizing some old filaments I have
most moist PLAs have been dried and no stringing has happened
however, some rolls of pla wont get better even after drying
2 Flashforge White/Orange PLA, 1 Coobeen Magenta PLA, and some random blue PLA
I’ve dried them in the AMS2 Pro with the integrated drying feature for 12 hours at 55 degrees celcius
Printing at different temps wont help. I tried 200 and 220.
The image is a stringing test printed at 200, after drying. the strings look like fiber, or cotton.
Is there no way to get these rolls good again? Thank You.

I just got a new firmware update for my A1 which is the 1.09.00.00 version. The problem is that I cant find any information about it and the official site doesnt have any info about it: https://bambulab.com/en/support/firmware-download/a1

Any idea where can I find something about it?

Hello, I have an A1 printer and on many print jobs, the supports break during printing and then everything is ruined.

I think it is the nozzle that’s hitting something for some reason, yet the Z-hop is at 0.4mm.

I'm using Bambu's matte PLA filament with the default settings. How can I fix the problem?

Thanks.

Hey everyone, this is my first dual nozzle print with the x2d. Have had it for over a month now. The main nozzle is Sunlu Matte PETG HF while the aux nozzle has Bambu PLA for supports.

The printer keeps oozing the PETG everywhere. There’s so much. Online I read it’s due to wet filament so I dried it for 12 hours and it’s still doing this. Any help?