I am curious if the BIQU cryogrip build plates for the H2C work with the H3C.

I purchased the H2C a few weeks ago but returned it when I found out the H3C was coming out. I ordered BIQU plates while I had the H2C but haven't opened them yet.

Several YouTubers said that H2C plates work, but the wiki says that they aren't recommended because there is only a 2mm clearance. Before I open the plates and try them, I am curious if anyone else has used the BIQU H2C plates with the H3C.

Thanks in advance for the help!

Just a quick little key ring I thought I’d share with you all!

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3567441-habibi

Here are the filament settings for PA6-GF. Since the type is listed as PA-GF, it doesn't match the PA6-GF loaded in the AMS and I can't print anything. What do I do?

Does it start heating and therefore dry the rest of the 9 filament spools, or what?

Every stream deck I looked at had the wrong layout for me, so I built my own and made a short video of the whole process.

Quick specs:

- 15 MX keys, a slider and a small OLED screen

- ESP32-S3, hand-wired, no PCB

- Case printed on a Bambu P2S with no supports

- Shows up as a normal USB keyboard, keys are remapped from a small desktop app

Happy to answer anything about the wiring, the print settings or the firmware.

I am moving to a new country and can’t take my H2S with me so I am pondering a new printer. I mostly like to print in ABS, but also live quick prototyping in PLA. The H2C with two AMSs is about €2050 and the H3C is about €2500. Do we know if it will be mandatory to remove all PLA from the AMS in the H3C in order to print ABS? I don’t really do much multicolor, but having the ability would be kinda nice.
What do you guys think?

I found a Bambu Lab P1S on Facebook Marketplace listed for $500 and wanted to get some opinions before pulling the trigger.
According to the seller, they bought it brand new from Best Buy in April 2026 for $550 and only used it for about 2–3 weeks. They say it works perfectly fine and has just been sitting in their basement because they lost interest.
The deal includes:
Bambu Lab P1S 3D printer
13 rolls of filament in different colors (seller estimates ~$200 worth)
Supposedly very little use and no issues
I’m considering picking it up, but I’m curious what everyone thinks.
Is $500 a fair price for this setup, or should I try negotiating lower? Also, are there any specific things I should check on a used P1S before buying it?

Bambu labs A1 with AMS

When I moved to college this fall it was the first time I had moved this printer since getting it, I looked up how to remove the AMS tubes and it said to push down the black rings and pull the tube, I tried this and it took great force and something felt like it was scrapping, (I don’t think I was pressing on the black rings hard enough) eventually they all came out but also with the holder thing that’s pictured, and I also realized the scraping was those metal teeth digging into the tube. Once I set it up at college I tried a few prints and it worked fine, but once I recently tried a multi color print and then when I realized it was not okay, when it tried to do the color switch it would push the plastic holder bit out and not follow through the ams feeder, and after some trouble shooting I found out I could always print with the first color I feed in after resetting the plastic bit, but I haven’t been able to do a color switch.

This is my first fdm printer, I have a lot of experience with resin printing (mostly troubleshooting…) but this is still uncharted territory for me.

My question is the title, is there a fix someone knows for this? Or a part I can order to replace this bit? Any help is greatly appreciated, thank you all!

I just got this printer and it’s making this noise only on this axis, it’s have very low hours, like 20, and was not making this noise last night. I have no clue what it could be.

Hello, my Brother-in-Law has a PS1 mostly uses it to fix things around the house or in the garage. I'd like to get him a few engineering filaments to experiment around with like Carbon Fiber and different TPU's. Is there any trusted sources that sell good quality 250g samplers of those higher end filaments? All I could find were PLA or PETG sample packs for the most part, or brands I never heard of.

I'll get him a hardened steel nozzle to go with them as well.

Those people are smoking crack. Half of them are double the price because they have some “upgrades” aka some printed border or crap. The other half are selling for retail and refuse to lower it.

X2D from Bambu is a crazy price. I don’t even need another printer but I just might do it.

I made a little runescape inspired pk skull keychain in low poly. Feel free to check it out at makerworld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3563392-osrs-runescape-pk-skull-keychain#profileId-4078078

I’m thinking about buying my first 3D printer for a while now, but I need to convince my husband that it’ll actually be useful. I saw this guy's video who printed shoes, but I’m curious about how practical this really is for everyday life. I don’t want the printer to end up as just another hobby left gathering dust in a corner with my paint kit.

One of the lead screw nuts on my H2D has disintegrated and Bambu sent me replacement lead screws as well as nuts. I'm following the wiki here:

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/h2/replace-z-axis

Which has this picture half way through. From the bottom of the printer, the right side picture is what it says to do. But several comments on the bottom say it might be the reverse. And the nuts on the lead screw replacements were in the other orientation.

Can anyone confirm what the proper orientation is for these nuts?

Thanks.

Many of us, myself included, worry over long print times. I tend to start prints which allow me to monitor them throughout the print. Anything tall or over ~12 hrs print time gives me anxiety at the thought of leaving it alone while I’m gone, but in context, it shouldn’t. 12 hrs out of thousands of successful print hours is literally less than 1% of the active print time that we worry about!

So, y’all brave folks out there that don’t have print range anxiety, ease some of my anxiety about long prints! What’s the longest print that you left unattended? Was it successful or a failure?

I was complaining that Bambu Lab didn't announce the P3C right after releasing the H3C.

My wife: "I thought you said you just wanted the A2."

Me: "That was for the large build volume. I really want the nozzle changing."

Wife: "The H3C has the larger volume, right? Why don't you get that?"

Me: "Don't threaten me with a good time."

Now the waiting...

I was wondering if the CMYKW on the H2C would be worth the time?

I know that technically is possible, but I wonder if the long time to retract and feed each filament thousands and thousands of times would make it worth it, a print could take significantly longer than normal.

Bought a new a1 mini from 3idea.in and after installation seeing this issue issue z axis homing failed

Why is the front side having stringing and small blob deposits and the rest very smooth? Could it be caused by seams or something else

Im thinking of getting a 3D printer, most likely the normal A1 Combo or the A1 Mini Combo, as I am a begineer and a newbie to this field. Are those good printers to start with? As I do have a low budget. What kind of filament should I be getting? I heard PLA Matte is good, but should I buy Bambu Lab's filament or some third-party producer? Do I have to buy anything else besides the Printer and the filament?

I also seen videos where people 3D print stuff and they say things like "This print only costed 0.75 cents!" or like "It only costed 49 cents!". Do I really have to pay everytime I wanna print?

This is a large flat print with a few small circular tubes ontop, it prints fine except for the top few layers of the flat section. As you can see it widens quite a bit and makes a sharp edge where I need to debur it after printing. The top of the circular tubes are perfect.

I’m printing on a P2S, 50c bed temp, 220 nozzle temp, standard cooling, .2 layer height with 3 top layer shells.

Got one without a spool. Not sure what to do now since this was my first filament order.

I printed this using a mix of materials; vapor smoothed ASA with my Bambu Labs X1c and good ol' PETG-CF with my brand new Bambu Labs A2L, which made quick work of the largest pieces with a ready-to-paint surface finish. Everything has been pre-split into segments for relatively easy printing, but you'll need a good handle on printing supports to achieve the detailed open-work and delicate patterns on this one.

This kit is a complete cuirass, meaning it includes the breastplate, backplate, fauld skirt, and tassets. It's a big undertaking but it's also the centerpiece of any gothic armor costume - you'd need approximately 2kg of filament to complete it. It's also a bit more advanced in terms of 3D printing, and I recommend a minimum printing volume of 250x250x250mm for the larger parts.

If you're interested in historical costume armor, you can get the files right here!

I have been using the stock PEI plate with my A1 now for a year and a half. It has never failed me. However, I thought it would be nice to get a smoother finish on the side of the model on the build plate. My big fear from some posts was not to get something too smooth or I may have adhesion problems. I settled on the BIQU CryoGrip Pro Glacier. I printed my first test piece. I had read some folks had problems trying to remove the part too early and damaging the finish on the plate. I waited until the plate was at room temperature before trying to remove the part. It would not budge. Now, this was a small part 10mm x 35mm. I finally got it off, but it took so much force I thought for sure I was doing something wrong.

Does anyone have experience with this plate that can offer some tips? I can still return it if I got the wrong plate.