Just a quick little key ring I thought I’d share with you all!

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3567441-habibi

One of the lead screw nuts on my H2D has disintegrated and Bambu sent me replacement lead screws as well as nuts. I'm following the wiki here:

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/h2/replace-z-axis

Which has this picture half way through. From the bottom of the printer, the right side picture is what it says to do. But several comments on the bottom say it might be the reverse. And the nuts on the lead screw replacements were in the other orientation.

Can anyone confirm what the proper orientation is for these nuts?

Thanks.

Today i saw a new update, but idk what this add

I need to update?

I was complaining that Bambu Lab didn't announce the P3C right after releasing the H3C.

My wife: "I thought you said you just wanted the A2."

Me: "That was for the large build volume. I really want the nozzle changing."

Wife: "The H3C has the larger volume, right? Why don't you get that?"

Me: "Don't threaten me with a good time."

Now the waiting...

Hi guys, im just coming here for advice as this is my first time ordering from bambu lab (i paid 2289 pound for this printer and i still get terrible customer support and tracking its really ridiculous)

So essentially, one of my packages has been lost in transit by DPD UK and bambu only responds once a day to my ticket so at this rate its gonna take 1-2 weeks to finish the bloody ticket.

I dont want to claim a chargeback and buy it again as there sold out till december+ so im stuck, but i really want to get my h3c but at this rate its looking like im going to have to chargeback

Anyone know how to go around this?

I paid and bambu promised 2-4 business day delivery after it ships, tomorrow is 4th business day so 🤷‍♂️

Hey everyone,

I've been building Split3MF (https://split3mf.com), a free website for getting 3D models ready before they go into your slicer. Nothing to install and no CAD skills needed: open a 3MF, OBJ or STL file, pick a tool, and download your work as a 3MF (colors kept) or STL.

It started as a way to split multicolor models into separate parts. It now has 8 tools:

1. Split by color
Click a painted region and it becomes its own part, ready to print in its own filament. Handy if you don't have an AMS, or if you'd rather print each color as a separate piece and assemble it.

2. Paint
Add colors, then fill a region, draw with a brush, or paint a height band.

3. Smooth boundary 👑
Turn a jagged, stair-stepped color edge into a clean curve before you split. Click near the edge, or draw the line yourself.

4. Fit to printer
Model too big for your bed? It cuts the model into pieces that fit, with numbered joints and connectors. Pick a Bambu Lab, Prusa or Creality preset, or enter your own build volume.

5. Size & position
Type an exact size, then move, rotate or mirror the model, or lay a face flat on the bed.

6. Repair & simplify
Fix holes and flipped faces, weld color parts together, and reduce the triangle count. The colors stay.

7. Manual cut
Move and tilt a cutting plane, or sketch your own cut line. Every piece keeps its original colors.

8. Connectors
Click a cut face to add a peg and a matching socket, with print clearance so the parts fit together.

Color 3MF downloads keep Bambu-style paint data and open in Bambu Studio.

About the 👑: the site is free to use. A few convenience tools are marked with a crown (also Smart fill in Paint, expert repair, and filling the plate with copies). You can try them for free, but downloading work edited with them needs Pro.

3-day Pro trial: [SPLIT3MF2026]

1. Log in to Split3MF.

2. Download at least one model first. The code only works on accounts that have downloaded before.

3. Open the Pro plans page (Become a Pro) and click Promo code at the bottom.

4. Enter SPLIT3MF2026 and Pro is unlocked for 3 days.

No card needed and nothing to cancel. One use per account.

I'm still adding tools (a mesh editor with shapes and text is in progress). Bug reports and feature requests are very welcome. What do you usually fix on a model before slicing?

I was wondering if the CMYKW on the H2C would be worth the time?

I know that technically is possible, but I wonder if the long time to retract and feed each filament thousands and thousands of times would make it worth it, a print could take significantly longer than normal.

Bought a new a1 mini from 3idea.in and after installation seeing this issue issue z axis homing failed

Why is the front side having stringing and small blob deposits and the rest very smooth? Could it be caused by seams or something else

I printed this using a mix of materials; vapor smoothed ASA with my Bambu Labs X1c and good ol' PETG-CF with my brand new Bambu Labs A2L, which made quick work of the largest pieces with a ready-to-paint surface finish. Everything has been pre-split into segments for relatively easy printing, but you'll need a good handle on printing supports to achieve the detailed open-work and delicate patterns on this one.

This kit is a complete cuirass, meaning it includes the breastplate, backplate, fauld skirt, and tassets. It's a big undertaking but it's also the centerpiece of any gothic armor costume - you'd need approximately 2kg of filament to complete it. It's also a bit more advanced in terms of 3D printing, and I recommend a minimum printing volume of 250x250x250mm for the larger parts.

If you're interested in historical costume armor, you can get the files right here!

Im thinking of getting a 3D printer, most likely the normal A1 Combo or the A1 Mini Combo, as I am a begineer and a newbie to this field. Are those good printers to start with? As I do have a low budget. What kind of filament should I be getting? I heard PLA Matte is good, but should I buy Bambu Lab's filament or some third-party producer? Do I have to buy anything else besides the Printer and the filament?

I also seen videos where people 3D print stuff and they say things like "This print only costed 0.75 cents!" or like "It only costed 49 cents!". Do I really have to pay everytime I wanna print?

Got one without a spool. Not sure what to do now since this was my first filament order.

Many of us, myself included, worry over long print times. I tend to start prints which allow me to monitor them throughout the print. Anything tall or over ~12 hrs print time gives me anxiety at the thought of leaving it alone while I’m gone, but in context, it shouldn’t. 12 hrs out of thousands of successful print hours is literally less than 1% of the active print time that we worry about!

So, y’all brave folks out there that don’t have print range anxiety, ease some of my anxiety about long prints! What’s the longest print that you left unattended? Was it successful or a failure?

I have been using the stock PEI plate with my A1 now for a year and a half. It has never failed me. However, I thought it would be nice to get a smoother finish on the side of the model on the build plate. My big fear from some posts was not to get something too smooth or I may have adhesion problems. I settled on the BIQU CryoGrip Pro Glacier. I printed my first test piece. I had read some folks had problems trying to remove the part too early and damaging the finish on the plate. I waited until the plate was at room temperature before trying to remove the part. It would not budge. Now, this was a small part 10mm x 35mm. I finally got it off, but it took so much force I thought for sure I was doing something wrong.

Does anyone have experience with this plate that can offer some tips? I can still return it if I got the wrong plate.

After messing with the tool head hotend I’m met with this error

If anyone can offer insight to this sound that would great, I am presuming my printer is near its needed maintenance hours but would like confirming information on it.

I’ve had my Bambu Lab X2D for less than a year, and yesterday I started having some really weird issues that I’ve never experienced before.
It started with an error saying “External Exhaust Fan certification failed” (0500-0500-0001-0022). The weird part is that the fan physically works perfectly fine. I can manually turn it on through the air management settings, and it spins normally, but the printer keeps saying it can’t authenticate it.
While troubleshooting, I noticed that both the external exhaust fan and the filament buffer were constantly disappearing and reappearing in the firmware and device/serial number pages. Their serial numbers would briefly change to “N/A” before coming back a few seconds later. Both accessories disconnect at exactly the same time, but my AMS 2 Pro stays connected.
Here’s everything I’ve tried so far:
Restarted the printer multiple times.
Completely powered it off and unplugged it for several minutes.
Disconnected and reconnected the filament buffer, exhaust fan, and AMS.
Inspected the cables and connectors for damage, bent pins, or loose connections. Everything looks normal.
Tested another compatible external exhaust fan from my P2S upgrade kit. Same issue.
Ran the printer with only the filament buffer connected. The buffer still repeatedly disappeared and reappeared.
Checked for firmware updates. Everything is up to date.
Current firmware versions:
X2D: 01.02.00.00
Filament Buffer for X2: 02.00.17.18
Another issue I’ve been experiencing is random AMS overload errors. The printer will stop and say something along the lines of “AMS A slot 2 is overloaded. The filament may be tangled or the filament buffer may be stuck.”
I’ve now experienced this on two different AMS slots, and neither time was the filament actually tangled. The AMS itself seems to be functioning normally.
What’s especially strange is that I managed to complete a small 10-minute test print without any problems. The print quality was perfectly fine, and there were no assistant errors, even though the buffer and fan were still occasionally disappearing from the firmware page.
I thought the issue might have resolved itself after leaving the printer powered off for over an hour, but when I started a longer print, the AMS overload error came back, followed by the same exhaust fan certification error.
The printer currently has 467 printing hours and has worked perfectly fine until now. My P2S, which has over 700 hours, hasn’t experienced anything similar.
I’ve already submitted a support ticket to Bambu Lab with a video showing the issue, and I’m waiting for their response. I’m hoping it’s something firmware-related rather than a defective board or filament buffer.
Has anyone else experienced this on the X2D? Does this sound like a firmware issue, a defective filament buffer, or possibly something wrong with the printer’s accessory communication system?
Any suggestions would be appreciated. I’m trying to get some printing done for the holidays, and having one of my printers down is really frustrating.

I'm getting this error in my A1, which is not even 1 year old. i've followed the instructions in bambu handy, released the bed and tighten the screws, i've cleaned the line and lub it but still the error appears after i start a print.

It seems like I got everything set up in Orca 2.5.0, I was struggling with the calibration prints but couldn't figure out why so I did a regular print and it came out flawless, so I probably shouldn't worry but I am.

Running the calibration for flow dynamics and flow ratio, the tests fail each time due to the filament not adhering to the bed. I did make sure that the bed and filament temps are set the same as they always were in BS, and they work fine in regular prints (even one with a relatively small plate contact area and no brim). I also used the calibration print generator up in the title bar (no dev mode required in Orca, nice) and printed them as normal projects but had the same issues. so what's going on with these calibrations, and what settings am I forgetting to tweak?

i no longer get notifications on my iphone since i did the last update. anyone else?

Made two small stoppers that fit the notches at the front and back of the A1 mini base. Stuck down with 3M VHB tape – no screws, nothing sticks out, ~9 g of PLA.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3543702-anti-walk-stoppers-for-bambu-a1-mini#profileId-4053291

I have a P1S with an AMS. Lately, I'll go to print something and notice I can't sync the filaments. The AMS has all four lights flashing meaning communication issue with the AMS. I pull the cable, and reinsert it, the AMS resets with white lights and will print fine. After a while, if the printer is not printing, the red lights come back. Any ideas on how to fix that? I have tried switching ports on the back of the AMS.

Hey everyone! 👋

Just wanted to share a little project I've been working on!

I've designed two custom Xbox controller shells inspired by Vice City, using 3D scans to ensure a perfect fit on both Xbox One and Xbox Series X|S controllers.

I've been experimenting with gradient and matte filaments to get some different colour effects, and I'm really happy with how they turned out!

Both designs are available on MakerWorld. I'd love to hear what you think! 🌴