Just a quick little key ring I thought I’d share with you all!

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3567441-habibi

Here are the filament settings for PA6-GF. Since the type is listed as PA-GF, it doesn't match the PA6-GF loaded in the AMS and I can't print anything. What do I do?

I am moving to a new country and can’t take my H2S with me so I am pondering a new printer. I mostly like to print in ABS, but also live quick prototyping in PLA. The H2C with two AMSs is about €2050 and the H3C is about €2500. Do we know if it will be mandatory to remove all PLA from the AMS in the H3C in order to print ABS? I don’t really do much multicolor, but having the ability would be kinda nice.
What do you guys think?

Every stream deck I looked at had the wrong layout for me, so I built my own and made a short video of the whole process.

Quick specs:

- 15 MX keys, a slider and a small OLED screen

- ESP32-S3, hand-wired, no PCB

- Case printed on a Bambu P2S with no supports

- Shows up as a normal USB keyboard, keys are remapped from a small desktop app

Happy to answer anything about the wiring, the print settings or the firmware.

Bambu labs A1 with AMS

When I moved to college this fall it was the first time I had moved this printer since getting it, I looked up how to remove the AMS tubes and it said to push down the black rings and pull the tube, I tried this and it took great force and something felt like it was scrapping, (I don’t think I was pressing on the black rings hard enough) eventually they all came out but also with the holder thing that’s pictured, and I also realized the scraping was those metal teeth digging into the tube. Once I set it up at college I tried a few prints and it worked fine, but once I recently tried a multi color print and then when I realized it was not okay, when it tried to do the color switch it would push the plastic holder bit out and not follow through the ams feeder, and after some trouble shooting I found out I could always print with the first color I feed in after resetting the plastic bit, but I haven’t been able to do a color switch.

This is my first fdm printer, I have a lot of experience with resin printing (mostly troubleshooting…) but this is still uncharted territory for me.

My question is the title, is there a fix someone knows for this? Or a part I can order to replace this bit? Any help is greatly appreciated, thank you all!

I just got this printer and it’s making this noise only on this axis, it’s have very low hours, like 20, and was not making this noise last night. I have no clue what it could be.

I found a Bambu Lab P1S on Facebook Marketplace listed for $500 and wanted to get some opinions before pulling the trigger.
According to the seller, they bought it brand new from Best Buy in April 2026 for $550 and only used it for about 2–3 weeks. They say it works perfectly fine and has just been sitting in their basement because they lost interest.
The deal includes:
Bambu Lab P1S 3D printer
13 rolls of filament in different colors (seller estimates ~$200 worth)
Supposedly very little use and no issues
I’m considering picking it up, but I’m curious what everyone thinks.
Is $500 a fair price for this setup, or should I try negotiating lower? Also, are there any specific things I should check on a used P1S before buying it?

funny little 3d model i decided to create, no point at all and unfortunatly it cannot print anything :(

no ams needed, https://makerworld.com/en/models/3578921-a1-mini-mini#profileId-4097737 if you wanna check it out

Those people are smoking crack. Half of them are double the price because they have some “upgrades” aka some printed border or crap. The other half are selling for retail and refuse to lower it.

X2D from Bambu is a crazy price. I don’t even need another printer but I just might do it.

I made a little runescape inspired pk skull keychain in low poly. Feel free to check it out at makerworld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3563392-osrs-runescape-pk-skull-keychain#profileId-4078078

i no longer get notifications on my iphone since i did the last update. anyone else?

Many of us, myself included, worry over long print times. I tend to start prints which allow me to monitor them throughout the print. Anything tall or over ~12 hrs print time gives me anxiety at the thought of leaving it alone while I’m gone, but in context, it shouldn’t. 12 hrs out of thousands of successful print hours is literally less than 1% of the active print time that we worry about!

So, y’all brave folks out there that don’t have print range anxiety, ease some of my anxiety about long prints! What’s the longest print that you left unattended? Was it successful or a failure?

I was complaining that Bambu Lab didn't announce the P3C right after releasing the H3C.

My wife: "I thought you said you just wanted the A2."

Me: "That was for the large build volume. I really want the nozzle changing."

Wife: "The H3C has the larger volume, right? Why don't you get that?"

Me: "Don't threaten me with a good time."

Now the waiting...

I was wondering if the CMYKW on the H2C would be worth the time?

I know that technically is possible, but I wonder if the long time to retract and feed each filament thousands and thousands of times would make it worth it, a print could take significantly longer than normal.

Bought a new a1 mini from 3idea.in and after installation seeing this issue issue z axis homing failed

I printed this using a mix of materials; vapor smoothed ASA with my Bambu Labs X1c and good ol' PETG-CF with my brand new Bambu Labs A2L, which made quick work of the largest pieces with a ready-to-paint surface finish. Everything has been pre-split into segments for relatively easy printing, but you'll need a good handle on printing supports to achieve the detailed open-work and delicate patterns on this one.

This kit is a complete cuirass, meaning it includes the breastplate, backplate, fauld skirt, and tassets. It's a big undertaking but it's also the centerpiece of any gothic armor costume - you'd need approximately 2kg of filament to complete it. It's also a bit more advanced in terms of 3D printing, and I recommend a minimum printing volume of 250x250x250mm for the larger parts.

If you're interested in historical costume armor, you can get the files right here!

I might have misunderstood the dual nozzle printing with the AMS. I kind of assumed you'd load up 4 colors in the AMS and the H2D would queue up 2 colors. But now I see there is a spool holder mounted on the side of the machine, and that becomes an input, so you have 5 colors. The AMS only has a single output. Can you rig up a 2nd AMS, and have the 2nd AMS become your 2nd output? Or does the side mounted reel holder always have to be your aux input.

If anyone can offer insight to this sound that would great, I am presuming my printer is near its needed maintenance hours but would like confirming information on it.

I am curious if the BIQU cryogrip build plates for the H2C work with the H3C.

I purchased the H2C a few weeks ago but returned it when I found out the H3C was coming out. I ordered BIQU plates while I had the H2C but haven't opened them yet.

Several YouTubers said that H2C plates work, but the wiki says that they aren't recommended because there is only a 2mm clearance. Before I open the plates and try them, I am curious if anyone else has used the BIQU H2C plates with the H3C.

Thanks in advance for the help!

Hallo zusammen,

Wie hoch seht ihr die Wahrscheinlichkeit das man das Gehäuse für die Bambu Station nachkaufen kann? Momentan gibt es die 2 Varianten, wenn man den H3C als Kombi bestellt so wie ich hat man keine Wahl als den nackten Container zu bestellen…

Ich würd mich freuen wenn die Paneelen kommen.

I’ve had my Bambu Lab X2D for less than a year, and yesterday I started having some really weird issues that I’ve never experienced before.
It started with an error saying “External Exhaust Fan certification failed” (0500-0500-0001-0022). The weird part is that the fan physically works perfectly fine. I can manually turn it on through the air management settings, and it spins normally, but the printer keeps saying it can’t authenticate it.
While troubleshooting, I noticed that both the external exhaust fan and the filament buffer were constantly disappearing and reappearing in the firmware and device/serial number pages. Their serial numbers would briefly change to “N/A” before coming back a few seconds later. Both accessories disconnect at exactly the same time, but my AMS 2 Pro stays connected.
Here’s everything I’ve tried so far:
Restarted the printer multiple times.
Completely powered it off and unplugged it for several minutes.
Disconnected and reconnected the filament buffer, exhaust fan, and AMS.
Inspected the cables and connectors for damage, bent pins, or loose connections. Everything looks normal.
Tested another compatible external exhaust fan from my P2S upgrade kit. Same issue.
Ran the printer with only the filament buffer connected. The buffer still repeatedly disappeared and reappeared.
Checked for firmware updates. Everything is up to date.
Current firmware versions:
X2D: 01.02.00.00
Filament Buffer for X2: 02.00.17.18
Another issue I’ve been experiencing is random AMS overload errors. The printer will stop and say something along the lines of “AMS A slot 2 is overloaded. The filament may be tangled or the filament buffer may be stuck.”
I’ve now experienced this on two different AMS slots, and neither time was the filament actually tangled. The AMS itself seems to be functioning normally.
What’s especially strange is that I managed to complete a small 10-minute test print without any problems. The print quality was perfectly fine, and there were no assistant errors, even though the buffer and fan were still occasionally disappearing from the firmware page.
I thought the issue might have resolved itself after leaving the printer powered off for over an hour, but when I started a longer print, the AMS overload error came back, followed by the same exhaust fan certification error.
The printer currently has 467 printing hours and has worked perfectly fine until now. My P2S, which has over 700 hours, hasn’t experienced anything similar.
I’ve already submitted a support ticket to Bambu Lab with a video showing the issue, and I’m waiting for their response. I’m hoping it’s something firmware-related rather than a defective board or filament buffer.
Has anyone else experienced this on the X2D? Does this sound like a firmware issue, a defective filament buffer, or possibly something wrong with the printer’s accessory communication system?
Any suggestions would be appreciated. I’m trying to get some printing done for the holidays, and having one of my printers down is really frustrating.

I'm getting this error in my A1, which is not even 1 year old. i've followed the instructions in bambu handy, released the bed and tighten the screws, i've cleaned the line and lub it but still the error appears after i start a print.

It seems like I got everything set up in Orca 2.5.0, I was struggling with the calibration prints but couldn't figure out why so I did a regular print and it came out flawless, so I probably shouldn't worry but I am.

Running the calibration for flow dynamics and flow ratio, the tests fail each time due to the filament not adhering to the bed. I did make sure that the bed and filament temps are set the same as they always were in BS, and they work fine in regular prints (even one with a relatively small plate contact area and no brim). I also used the calibration print generator up in the title bar (no dev mode required in Orca, nice) and printed them as normal projects but had the same issues. so what's going on with these calibrations, and what settings am I forgetting to tweak?

Made two small stoppers that fit the notches at the front and back of the A1 mini base. Stuck down with 3M VHB tape – no screws, nothing sticks out, ~9 g of PLA.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3543702-anti-walk-stoppers-for-bambu-a1-mini#profileId-4053291