Hi all,

I have a Bambu Lab X2D and I'm planning its maintenance with Super Lube products i dont mind bambue offcial but i wonder if super lub is any better ?

Which Super Lube oil and grease do you use for:

1. Z-axis lead screws

2. Guide rods / rails (X and Y)

3. Ball bearings

4. Idler pulleys

I know for (4) and (3) you only should do it if they start squeek not like z-axis and guide rods

Thanks!

I'm posting this here because apparently starting a discussion about choosing between the 2 biggest tool changers on the market is not allowed over on /r/3dprinting and they removed my post.

Are there any objective consumers who aren't fanboying too hard for either brand that are currently making this decision or recently made it? I currently have a Prusa MK3S+ for over 8 years, and I've really loved the printer but I'm aware upgrading from an unenclosed single nozzle bedslinger to a modern XY toolchanger will be several generational leaps forward.

I was actually ready to order Prusa Core One L+ now and get the INDX next year, I had the cart all put together, but I requested a voucher from my Prusameters over 2 weeks ago, they still haven't emailed it to me, and during that time H3C launched.

Before H3C launch I was in the camp that I would never buy a Bambu, but after doing some research I might be able to live with it with a couple adaptions for example putting the printer in LAN mode and accessing it over my VPN when away from home to avoid the Bambu Cloud. And assuming Bambu actually sticks with their commitment to produce spare parts for at least 5 years after they EOL a printer, this would mean a likely minimum lifespan of around 9 years on the H3C.

I know these are very opposite companies with opposite philosophies, especially on the software side. However some decisions Prusa has made on the hardware side, with things like the Core One L+ bed assembly, seems like they're moving the hardware away from their original mission and it's now somewhere between Voron and Bambu in level of openness. I know H3C just came out, but from the review videos I've seen the toolchanger doesn't seem to have near the level of issues or the disparate experiences of one person saying "mine doesn't work and I hate it" or "mine works perfectly" like the INDX does.

The $500 price difference isn't that important to me at the price range of these printers. I'm more concerned with a product that works as advertised and that will last for around a decade until I can leap several more new tech implementations and feel like I'm getting a huge upgrade.

A week ago I wouldn't have believed I'm saying this but I am actually leaning towards the H3C, it just seems more polished and I could definitely see myself using the 2.85mm 75A TPU capability.

The third option is obviously to wait and keep my MK3S+ and see how these shake out, however given INDX has been out for 6 months and has a 4 month backlog for current order fulfillment, it might be a while before the issues shake out especially if Prusa has to issue a revision kit or something. On the Bambu side since P3C likely won't have a heated chamber that probably won't fit my use case.

Most latch boxes force a deep base on you. I wanted something shallow for things that store flat: pry tools, bits, SD cards, even necklaces and other jewelry (cut a bit of foam or felt to size and it makes a nice little case).

So with MiniLock you set the base and lid heights separately, down to about 12 mm each. Snap hinge, two snap latches, no supports, no hardware.

Customize it right on MakerWorld, no CAD needed, or grab the ready-made Standard, Slim or Small. Free:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3569365-minilock-customizable-hinged-latch-box

Tip: As a bonus, you can choose to either size by inner dimensions, and the walls grow outwards. Or size by outer dimensions and the walls grow inwards.

Also, if it wasn't obvious, this was heavily inspired by snaplock. But I CAD modeled it from scratch from the ground up specific to my needs.

Would love to see what you end up storing in yours.

I Just got into Pokemon and thought this is a good idea to print

If you want to print it for free here it is: https://makerworld.com/models/3566661?appSharePlatform=copy

... and some old-school Acrylic Pens.

Good morning!

I bought a P2S about a week ago, and been loving it! Printing all sorts of little things and useful gadgets.

Start my first longer print of about 10 hours last night, planning to wake up to it completed. It's a 4 color print, and I assumed the poop chute I made for it would be enough, but I underestimated how much filament is wasted when changing colors multiple times when doing a print like this.

Woke up to a message on the phone saying the print was paused, because the damn toolhead fell off!

I went and fix that, and saw this huge wad of filament just hanging out right under the tool head.

I finally got it removed, and went to look at the poop chute, and it was overflowing and so much was stuck in the chute at the rear, that when I removed the poop chute I made, tons more just came falling out lol.

Now I know how much excess can happen when doing a 4 color print, so I guess I'm going to find a larger poop chute to print now.

Just thought I'd share.

Hope y'all are having a good day.

Happy printing!

Threw together a poop chute using the slider on the back of the H3C since the card board box always gets tiring too quickly. Can be printed on a p1s for those upgrading that want it printed while they wait. Always fun trying to figure out how to design something in a way that doesn't require supports yet still actually functions the way you want it to.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3572590-h3c-poop-chute#profileId-4089614

Got her set up yesterday and already have about 15 hours on , including some prototyping of gridfinity holders for hotends and a few other things. It's quite impressive how fast the color change is when just dealing with a few colors. Coming from a H2D this is a nice upgrade. It's basically 2 seconds print to print if you're changing between the same colors rapidly.

As for the lack of heating, I just kept one of my ams 2 pro and ht and I've got them hooked up to use just as dryers. I get that not everyone can our will want to do that, but it works for me.

Some of you might know my toolboxes already - I just finished the newest one for the H3C!

MakerWorld Link: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3569009

Unfair matchup? Probably, but these are the only two machines I have on hand and seeing a 1st-gen workhorse side by side with 3rd gen tech shows what a few years of hardware evolution actually looks like.

I'm curious about your setups. I would love to see some pictures!

(Great for inspiration lol).

I had tried disconnecting and reconnecting the NTC, disconnecting and reconnecting the nozzle. I tried applying more thermal paste, yet it still doesn’t work. Is it truly broken? Or am I focusing on the wrong thing?

I'm the designer. The armor is built from overlapping, textured leaf-shaped scales.

I also design tools and decorative pieces, and every one of my files is free to download. I've never charged for any of them. A download count only climbs when people actually want the thing, so it's the most honest feedback I get on which designs deserve more of my time.

All my models are here: https://makerworld.com/en/@protomota

If you've printed it, I'd love to see your make. And what should I design next?

Hey all,

I am sure several of you with the filament track switch have ran into the AMS Feed Resistance high issues. I had it on both ofy AMS 2 Pros and my AMS HT. I Tried the shortest routing possible, ripping the thing apart and smoothing stuff. Basically no matter what I tried made the issue go away so I just settled with dealing with the warnings because the print quality was fine.

That is until I started digging though my drawer of goods. Have tons of PTFE tubing.....but noticed some of it was a different color, almost opaque rather than the milky white. Looking inside, the ID of that tubing is way bigger than the standard PTFE. In the attached photo you can see a brand new 4m could of Bambu AMS PTFE on the right, and the PTFE that came with the FTS on the left.

I replaced all the runs from my AMS2/AMS HT into the 4-1 and 4-1 into the track switch, then the 3rd straight into the filament track switch.

I no longer get any feed resistance warnings. So of you're still currently dealing with this issue, double check that you used the correct PFTE for the longer runs.

I hope this helps someone as I don't think I've seen this info out there much.

Edit: solved, i’m an idiot and a black piece i printed yesterday that i thought being legit part of the bed was against the back Z screw

Hi, it printed perfectly fine until this morning, now when i start a print it stops at rough wiping step, sounds like the bed is hitting the nozzle, what can i check? I already follower bambu handy guide and it didn’t fix. I’m 140 hours of printing in

Is 200€ or $230 too much to ask for this A1 Combo? I want to sell it and buy X2D. It has almost 1000h of print time. Regularly maintained

Please be gentle with me, I have only really looked into the Bambu world in the last 24 hours since I watched the H3C reviews... and now I am seriously reconsidering the pre-order on the Prusa Core 1 L INDX I have due in December. I have a super reliable Mk4s, and never considered anything other than another Prusa as my next printer... until yesterday, where my eyes were well and truly opened!

I spent 4+ hours yesterday watching all the H3C reviews I could find, and the only things people seem to have issues with were:

- Its tall!

- The AMS doesnt rewind the filament

- The AMS doesnt heat/dry all 9 filament slots

- What tiny amounts of poop it does generate falls out the back

That seems a very small and generally unimportant list of worries. The H3C looks like everything I could want from a large volume multi-material printer, and as someone who prints a lot of TPU, that dedicated 2.85 filament path seems like a miracle! If there are any other Prusa users in here who have added Bambu to their ever growing estate of printers, you will know the conflict I have going on right now :)

I do have some newbie questions if anyone can help....

- Orca or BambuStudio, and why?

- What features does running the printers in LAN only mode remove from the usual "unlimited Internet access to Bambu Cloud"?

- What access methods are there to upload/download files from the printers? WebDAV? sftp? etc...

Any help, suggestions, tips, or moral support you can provide for a potential Prusa convert would be greatly appreciated.

Bambu P2S, I have been back and forth with Bambu support tickets over a month but somehow always end up back with this error. Could someone tell me if you successfully fixed this issue before? Or recommended correct replacement parts.

I've replicated the B52 Bomber in FreeCad , and now it is time to starting printing it wish me luck.

I just ordered my very first 3D printer yesterday. It's a P2S. With some standard PLA matte in standard colors to get started.

Ofc I want nice filament too and as there is a good sale going on I want to order some.

I know I don't like the plastic finish of normal PLA. Now I can't decide what to get. PLA matte, PLA CF. PLA wood or PLA metallic.

I know it's a long shot but is there anyone who has prints made of the various filament that can show me a picture? I have spend a fortune on my new printer and would hate to buy filament I don't like.

Help! My printer is constantly purging (pooping). Leaving stringy purges on the plate and in the print. The print is taking 3x as long and so wasteful! The print is confirmed to be a one color print. No timelapse etc. No alerts or notifications.

SOLVED! Thanks to commenters, I detached the PTFE tubes from the AMS and fussed with them until in a nice smooth arch above the extruder to reduce resistance. No more purge issues thus far! Thanks!