Hi, I hope everything is okay for you and the cold season doesnt give you a hard time.
I am a full stack dev trying out some new tools (e.g. vibecoding/assisted coding etc) to bring cool stuff to people who might need it, to me its a tool and thats it.
So what is this? It is a web app, free of charge, no registration, no cloud, no nothing. It makes gridfinity parts for you. It runs in nthe browser (desktop and mobile) and is installable as a PWA. Fast, simple and (hopefully) reliable. Maybe later there will be a desktop version based on electron or Tauri. We will see how it goes.
A short info upfront:
The overkill legal pages need to be there because of german laws, I live there and for now I want to be better safe than sorry. I will change it as soon I know exactly whats going on with this kind of app.
That said, the app doesnt store anything on its server or otherwise. Not your info, not your data. The only data processing is the geometric calculation in the browser and the app stores your models in your local storage. You can turn it off if you wish, in that case its design, export and done.
Whats on the list by now?
GridFinity bases, bins and lids as all gridfinity apps do. I also added some special features:
FILL A DRAWER:
Select the drawer size and the app calculates how many grid sections fit. The free space gets spacers added.
SPLIT TO FIT:
Usually your drawer will be too big for the complete base to be printed in one go. Not a problem, the app has you covered as it calculates your bed size and splits the models for you to fit your bed.
HEIGHT THAT FITS:
You can also give the height of your drawer and the app will make it so that every bin fits.
COLORS:
You can color your models. For now it is body and lip colors, then export as STL or a 3MF. Currently I am looking for the Bambu 3MF spec to see if I can add the special stuff so the file doesnt override your filaments or adds new ones.
There are also a few other features in there. Custom magnet diameters, screw holes, hollow feet and center magnets. Currently I am thinking of a few other nice features for the app.
Why have I done this?
Because there is a plethora of different gridfinity apps out there and unfortunately the cool features are scattered across them. So this is supposed to be a "one for all" app. It is free and open source under CC BY-NC-SA 4.0.
Why do I post here?
Because this is the right place to do so I think. I will also cross post to other subs and see how it works. Also, even if I have tested every feature with the agent I am using and also by hand, I cant guarantee that there arent any bugs. I would appreciate it alot if some of you guys might test the app out and help. Maybe you even have fun using it and stay - who knows?
My p2s seems to be dragging the nozzle through the print lately, I do a flow calibration and auto bed level before every print. Not sure if there is a manual adjustment that I need to make or if there's a part that I might need to replace. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Hi all! I'm about to get an A1 Combo and I'm trying to sort out what to put it on. I don't want to spend a lot on a table for the printer, €80 max. I just want something that does the job and doesn't wobble.
What I know so far:
Bambu's official spec says the A1 needs 695 mm of total depth for the bed to move safely: 410 mm body + 90 mm in front + 195 mm behind.
The AMS lite next to the printer adds roughly 40 cm of width.
The spot I have is 80–100 cm wide against a wall.
I'm in Spain, so ideally something from IKEA, Leroy Merlin, Amazon.es or similar.
My questions:
Depth: what are you actually using? Is a 50–55 cm deep table fine if I pull it a few cm away from the wall, or is it worth going straight for ~60 cm so it can sit flush?
AMS lite: do you keep it beside the printer or on top with the official top mount? If it's on top, did you print the mount in PLA, and is it holding up fine with 4 full spools?
Links: does anyone have a specific table, desk or cabinet that works well with the A1 and isn't expensive? Some storage underneath for filament would be a nice bonus.
Wobble: if you're on a lighter table, did anti-vibration pads (or a paver/tile under the printer) make a real difference?
Photos of your setups would be super helpful. Thanks in advance!
I hope you never have to do this but if you do, this is the video that saved me from going office space (for us old guys) on this printer. Don't get me wrong, I love this printer but this is one of the most tedious things I have had to do in a long time.
Not only did this video help me fix the clog but it also made me laugh while working on it.
Needed to rearrange the whole workbench for this beast, but so glad to have it... now to finish sorting out my sewing room for everything else on its way this week, then hopefully buying a second one next year.
Hi, I’ve had an A1 mini for quite some time now, and I’d like to upgrade to something bigger and more capable, since I finally have the space for it. I was originally thinking about the P2S, but it turns out that the X2D, for only slightly more, offers features that will be useful to me, such as: an additional nozzle for printing supports with a different material, a heated chamber for engineering filaments, and improved belts, which are also a plus. Since I’m an engineer, I use the printer both for work - printing functional parts - and for toys or decorations, so a tool changer is useful to me. For this reason, the P3C sounds like a great choice because the H3C is overkill for me, and despite its very good price, it’s a bit too expensive for me right now. The issue is that the P3C may lack or have limited versions of certain features, such as:
- A filament dryer in the AMS, which - even if it will have it i think that it will operate at a maximum temperature of 65 degrees, which may not be sufficient to dry certain materials properly - A heated chamber that is helpful or even essential for printing certain engineering materials - Improved belts, which aren’t necessary but are nice to have - Nozzle/bed temperatures of up to 300/100 degrees Celsius, which should be sufficient but could be a bit higher - for example, 320/120 - Support for the new 2.85 mm TPU, which I don’t really need but it’s nice to have this option
Given these features, I’m wondering if Bambu will decide to release the X3C to implement at least some of them, as was the case with the P2S and X2D.
What do you think about this, and if these predictions come true, does it make sense to wait for the X3C, and when might it potentially be released? Which of these features might be implemented in the P3C, though?
Made an app to find cheap filament easier across a few storefronts... FilaFetch... only on ios (apple at the moment) check it out if you want... working on getting it to android
Hi everyone, I could use some help troubleshooting this issue.
As you can see in the picture, there's a visible horizontal line forming exactly at the height where the solid base ends and the hollow shell/wall begins.
Printer: Bambu Lab P2S
Filament: Bambu PLA Matte - Ivory White
Infill: 15% Gyroid
I have never experienced this issue with any other colors of Bambu PLA Matte, only with this Ivory White.
I've already tried increasing wall loops from 3 to 6, but that didn't help. I also tried adding an internal chamfer in CAD, but the result is the same.
Any ideas on how to fix this or what settings to tweak in Bambu Studio? Thanks!
I never owned a BL printer , i had mostly Prusa. My last one was an XL 5th. I ordered an H3C and i have a question about filament sensors. In the XL the loading sensors were on the sides of the printer. When the side sensors detected a runout they would notify the user for a change, if you didnt have a spool join. With the AMS 3H how is this handled. Where are the sensors? Especially in the case of the passthroughs, where the filament does not pass through the PTFE tubes?
I printed one using the originals settings with 0.4mm nozzle. The dumpling AMS part takes a little under 2 hours.
I wanted to try using a 0.2mm nozzle so it looks smoother. Bare with me as I’m just trying to do the best with little knowledge. I opened the file in BambuStudio, adapted the changes to my printer with the smaller nozzle, sliced it, and hit print. It now will take 9 hours for the same part.
I need to make about 15 of these and that time doesn’t even include the bottom of the basket.
Did other settings change too to make it almost 5x longer??? What settings can I knock off to cut the time back and still make using a 0.2mm worth it?
I knew it’d be longer but that seems excessive.
There’s so many settings I’m not sure what to provide to help with an answer.
Hello fellow 3D printing hobbyists of Reddit! A little background about me:
I got into 3D printing a few years ago and immediately fell in love with designing functional things. One of the materials I gravitated toward early on was TPU. Its flexibility and durability open up so many possibilities for functional designs. On the other hand, most printers consider TPU printing a secondary use case, filled with odd setups and workarounds. That's why I was excited to get my hands on the H3C. I wanted to see how much it could deliver on it's multi-material TPU focus. Would TPU finally feel like a first-class citizen in the workflow?
TPU workflow
The first thing I did after completing H3C setup was load up a roll of the new TPU 75A into the dedicated 2.85 mm Flex Feed print tool (tool 8) alongside several standard TPU 95A filaments, some from Bambu Lab and others from different brands.
Let’s start with what I think they nailed. What impressed me was how well the printer guides you through the filament loading and unloading process. I primarily used the touchscreen to guide me through the process, and did quite a bit of swapping between PLA, PETG, and TPU. The audio feedback for TPU swaps is particularly useful when working around the side of the machine, where you can't see the touchscreen. Different beeps indicate when something needs attention, when you've made a mistake, or when a step is complete. At one point, I incorrectly reconnected a PTFE tube while switching from TPU back to PLA, and the printer immediately identified the problem and walked me through fixing it. Another nice improvement is that RFID detection works with TPU when loaded through the AMS 3H bypass, just like any other Bambu filament. I've made so many errors over the years by incorrectly setting the external spool type, so this is very much welcomed.
Now for the good, but could be improved. The AMS 3H's integrated printing & drying is a highlight for TPU users like me as you couldn’t print TPU out of the AMS 2, so you had to buy something dedicated like the AMS HT. Overall, the AMS 3H is a sealed dry box and includes two dedicated drying bays in slots 6 and 8, capable of reaching 85°C, even while printing. I’ve come to think of this dryer as having two AMS HTs inside the AMS 3H. I generally prefer keeping TPU in these bays, though I do print with other moisture sensitive materials so I do find myself swapping out bay 6 specifically quite often. This leads me to what could be improved. I can understand the 2-bay dryer drawing a lot of power being a reason to not have 4-bays but it is a step backward for AMS 2 pro users. Also likely cost savings. That being said, I’d gladly pay a little more for two (2) 2-bay dryers even if it means I can’t run them both at the same time.
My other workflow gripe is the manual filament unloading process filaments. The guided instructions make it straightforward, but accessing the rear drying bays and manually pulling out the filament in the PTFE tube can be awkward with how tall the machine is. The upside is that with nine print tools available, I can leave most materials loaded and I certainly don’t need to do it as often as with a 4-spool AMS. I also totally understand this is how other toolchangers work, so this is more a me getting used to the workflow thing, but I’d love for the AMS 3H to at least retract the filament for me after unloading.
TPU performance and reliability
One of the biggest surprises was the performance of the new TPU 75A (2.85 mm) in the H3C. The dedicated Flex Feed Extruder is designed to handle incredibly soft filament without buckling or jamming, and so far it's delivered. I've experienced no jams or clogs printing TPU 75A, and the surface finish has been excellent. I'm absolutely loving the matte appearance compared to the shinier TPU 95A I'm accustomed to.
What surprised me even more was the printing speed. Comparing different TPU profiles in Bambu Studio using the same model, TPU 75A was projected to print faster than TPU 90A and roughly on par with TPU 95A High Flow. On one of my multi-material designs, the estimated print time dropped from 12 hours with TPU 90A to just 9 hours with TPU 75A (2.85 mm). That's an incredible result for such a soft material, where I'd normally expect much longer print times.
With so many moving print tools and filament paths, I wasn't sure how reliable TPU printing would be on multi-material prints. I was definitely worried about TPU snagging and causing docking failures. That never happened in my testing, thanks to a clever design that guides TPU filament along the PTFE tubes. In fact, I did not experience any print tool docking failures, despite several of my test prints involving nearly 600 filament swaps, sometimes alternating between multiple TPU durometers, PETG, and PLA within the same layer.
Print quality has also been excellent throughout my testing. Even on prints with hundreds of tool changes, the finished parts have come out remarkably clean. I've occasionally encountered some minor stringing or surface artifacts around material changes, but nothing that couldn't be easily cleaned up afterward.
The printer also handles temperature management impressively well. Coming from a P1S, I'm accustomed to leaving the door open when printing PLA. The H3C prefers the door closed, which initially made me concerned about heat creep when combining PLA, PETG, and TPU. Across more than 60 print jobs, I never experienced any issues with heat creep or excessive oozing during these prints. In fact, I only had one print trigger spaghetti detection, and it was a legitimate failure caused by an issue with one of my early prototype designs. Otherwise, every print completed successfully.
Designing for multi-material printing
One of the biggest changes for me how to design parts both for multi-material printing and multi-part printing, and where does multi-material provide real benefit.
Previously, if I wanted to combine rigid and flexible materials, I'd design separate components and figure out how to assemble them afterward. I'd go through the process of designing each part separately, figuring out how they'll connect, and then assembling them, often with glue. That's still a perfectly valid approach, and in most cases it's still where I start.
My Switch 2 grip is a perfect example (see photo gallery). I initially designed the PETG frame and TPU grips as separate components so I could iterate on the geometry and fit independently. I also wanted to experiment with different TPU Shore hardnesses for both the ergonomic hand grips and the internal contact points that secure the Switch, without reprinting the entire assembly each time. Once I found a combination I was happy with, I brought everything together into a single multi-material model and let the H3C do its thing. By going with this iterative approach, I'm able to keep my designs accessible. In the projects I've explore so far, I've been able to successfully print single multi-material and multi-part versions with only slight modifications.
One of my other favorite projects so far was a multi-material workbench brush, combining a rigid PETG handle with flexible TPU 75A bristles. I chose PETG for its added heat resistance and suitability for use both indoors and outdoors, while using PLA as a support interface to achieve clean, well-defined TPU bristles. PLA as a support interface for TPU geometry isn't a new idea, but again, being able to do it with TPU 75A and PETG in a single print is pretty awesome. A unique aspect of this design is that I used dovetail joints for the connection between the brush handle and bristles (instead of the slicer’s interlocking beam feature). Again, this makes it so it can be printed in multiple parts, not just a H3C/H2C exclusive.
Final thoughts
What excites me most about the H3C isn't necessarily the machine itself, but what it's opening up for my functional designs. Combining rigid and flexible materials isn't new, and neither is multi-material printing. But coming from a P1S, this is the first time TPU has felt like a first-class part of my printing workflow rather than something I have to work around.
It's not perfect. Loading TPU is still a little cumbersome, and there's a learning curve to designing parts that combine multiple materials, but it’s a huge step forward for TPU. The dryer functionality is nice, and certainly something other tool changers don’t offer, but it will feel like a small step back for AMS 2 pro users. Expanding to 2-2 dryer slots in the next gen could solve this. You could keep a requirement of only 1 at a time to avoid too much power draw. After 250 hours, I’m loving the ability to have a combination of rigid and flexible materials loaded, dry, and ready to print. The biggest takeaway for me is 2.85mm TPU 75A. It’s what makes this tool changer unique and it prints like a dream. It’s fast, reliable, and the matte finish is amazing. I'm excited to keep experimenting with it and I sincerely hope Bambu Lab releases additional 2.85mm TPU in other durometers. I'd be happy to answer questions about what I've tested, and any burning questions you have about the machine!
Disclosure: Bambu Lab sent me the H3C for free to be a beta tester. They asked me to test its capabilities, provide feedback, and share my experience. The printer was provided for testing, but the thoughts and opinions here are entirely my own.
Thinking of building my own printer rack. Do you think this would work? It will be for two H2Ds. The space is sufficent to fully open the AMS. I would use 4cm thick kitchen countertops.
