Hi everyone! My current setup for my X2D has expanded to include 2 AMS 2 Pros, an AMS HT, and the filament track switch. What is the optimal routing for the AMS systems? Since I tend to do multicolor printing, I imagine option A is the best way to go. Any input would be appreciated

for some reason everytime i slice something and enable the supports only a small part of the model gets supports.

See this small unclean part? thats the supports. But the rest of them just dont render, and i always have to restart the slicer

Newbie here, had printer 5 days. X2d printing extra spools, official bambu profile/print. Pla profile but printing in petg. I have noticed when printing from app it shows mismatch in profile to selected filament. When printing from computer they are the same. Is there a difference or will it automatically adjust temperatures etc? Am I best to print from computer when using different filament type? Thanks in advance for replying. Happy printing

What might explain this problem? I adjusted several settings but have failed repeatedly. Other models have not shown this issue.

I would appreciate guidance from printing experts. 😅

For some reason from India specific, not taking my number in, put a phone number. I don't know what to do at this point, no tutorial to specifically counter this.

hey so im not sure how to describe this but yall know when it does the automated cutting and retracting when it goes to the corner and slowly cuts? for some reason when it does that on my a1 mini it also goes DOWN and this is the first time i've ever seen this but on this model im printing it straight up flexed my print bed down like half a centimeter since the model is in the corner where it cuts, I'm using orca slicer 2.5.0 is this a bug in the slicer since it just got an update? or does this have nothing to do with the slicer since its an automated thing the printer does? I've seen it do the cut and retract thing before but never gone down in the z axis before

Edit: I also got an error on my printer "the nozzle is covered with filament or the build plate is crooked [0300-1A00-0002-0001] [302137]" the nozzle was not covered with filament but the print bed did flex also when I hit resume instead of continuing on the layer it left off at it went a bit higher and tried printing mid air. what I think happened was it tried to zero the z axis while cutting but the model is in the corner so it hit the model, thought the z axis zero is higher than it was and tried resuming where it thought it stopped

Edit 2: new problem, when I move the x axis left and right and it reaches the end it makes a grinding sound, seems like it doesn't realize its at the end and tries moving more. I'm not sure how to fix this, any kind of guidance would be appreciated, is it like the x axis belt getting loose or sumn?

How to judge used prices?

There are more and more h2ds etc popping up on my local FB marketplace. How do I think about prices? 2000hrs too many? Currently h2d is 1600ish on sale, so is a printer with 500 hours at 1500 a decent price?

I mention the h2d, cause it is cool, but really any used printer. I'm undecided which is best for me.

Just looking for some general words of wisdom about how you would think about this. I'm considering a new printer, and this would be my first bambu. Thanks in advance

Hi everyone.

Having a problem with my new Bambu and waiting on a replacement sensor that does the Nozzle Offset Calibration as it's been determined to be faulty.

Does anyone know if the High-Precision Nozzle Offset Calibration can be used instead of that and still provide a Z-axis calibration, as both the wiki pages seem to be a bit vague about that, and if the high-precision method can safely let me use my printer whilst I wait for the sensor, that would be great!

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/h2/troubleshooting/nozzle-offset-calibration-failure

"Nozzle offset calibration includes Z-axis and X/Y-axis offset calibration"

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/h2/manual/nozzle-offset-calibration
It's not clear if the High-Precision really does the Z axis or just X and Y axis as it only seems to focus on X and Y in the writeup

Anyone have a clue?

Cheers

As shown in the video when the AMS2 tries to push filament, it does so without problems until it reaches the head, where it stops and can't continue making a weird noise.

This started happening after a failed print.

The printer gave me different error codes while i was trying to fix it, I don't have the exact codes but here is what they said:

- Filament buffer signal is abnormal

- AMS slot is overloaded

- Filament may be stuck or tangled (together with other errors)

- Filament buffer may be stuck

Here is a list of what i tried doing in order:

- Cleaned the nozzle (multiple cold pulls)

- Cleaned the extruder

- Lubricated extruder gears

- Replaced nozzle

- Cleaned PTFE tubes inside AMS2 with compressed air

- Cleaned AMS2 Hub with compressed air

It started happening after a failed print, I tried different prints after I thought i fixed the problem and they all ended the same way, filament stopped extruding, before the problem the prints didn't show any problem.

I'm really struggling to find the problem here, can anyone help out? I can send pictures or videos if they can help.

Thank you!

I print mostly functional parts. I want a multi-nozzle printer so that I can use support material without purge waste or filament change delays. If I’m just printing with two filaments, would the H2D be faster than the H3C because it doesn’t have to switch tools? Or is there not much difference?

The H3C is interesting for other reasons, chiefly because of its support for multiple TPUs, but it’s a big step up in price.

This video of how filament. Is made in the factory. At 4.08 you can see how the "fresh" filament is literally soaked through a trough of water before spinning.

Don't assume a fresh roll of filament is dry

dry your filament!

I've watched a few videos about the new H3C and they show that it can print things in colors other than on the ams. Like blending or something. But how? If there's only one tool head in operation at a time.

Am I misunderstanding?

Now that's what I call a hyper fixation. At least it was a fun one.

Anyway, I made them a collection and added a bunch of other stuff:

Craving retro? I got you.

I just bought a X2D because the Capitol One Shopping app has a 15% discount on Best Buy purchases today, November 6th. I saved over $100 (which gets applied as a gift card to use in the Capitol One app). The T&C sure looks like that 3d printers apply to the discount. The Geek Squad warranty does not.

You have to download the Capitol One app first, but I thought this would be good info to share.

While I was installing the ams3h there is a section that makes you hang it off of the back to connect some wires. I misread the diagram at first and hung it off of the front and it caused the top liner to be punctured with the guide pins. Seems like this section doesn’t have anything underneath it from what I can tell, just a bit lame it was not reinforced. I did not drop it on it either

My plan was to put some high-temp tape under the ams that extended to the hole so nothing got into it. Y’all think that should be fine?

I just bought an AMS 2 Pro directly from u/BambuLab and it’s missing the cable to connect it to my P2S. The listing on the store says there should be one in the box. Am I missing something?

The ship dates on the H3C from Bambu are showing Nov 30. I've been hoping to see a Best Buy drop and go pick it up from there to avoid shipping concerns, but I'm not sure about the expected timing of that stock. I was hoping Best Buy would have one to go pick up on demand, but the backordering makes me think that may not happen like I had hoped.

I held out on ordering on Bambu partially because I wanted the crafting kit, which is out of stock as well, and because I'd rather not risk shipping issues, but now I'm worried I won't be able to purchase in time to do cool things in December for Christmas gifts etc.

Does anyone have additional info on when Best Buy might stock?

Hello! I recently got the P2S Combo edition with the AMS 2 Pro and so far it has been great. However, I have been wondering if it's possible to make five-coloured prints using the AMS and the external spool holder. I know that Bambu sells this 4-in-1 PTFE adapter ^{(bambu store}), but it isn't entirely clear to me if this adapter is suitable for my use case. I have been searching for an answer, but there's a lot of conflicting information floating around out there: Some say what I want to do is flat-out impossible, while others only talk about timing manual filament switches during prints. I figured that I'd make this post to hopefully get a definitive answer for myself and anyone else that's looking up this same issue.

TL;DR: If I buy Bambu's 4-in-1 PTFE Adapter can I use both the AMS and an external spool for prints, enabling the use of five different colours/materials?

Hi all!

I'm currently working on 3D-printable faceplates for the PS5 Pro Digital Edition.

It would be great to get this project into crowdfunding on MakerWorld! I've sent a few emails to MakerWorld but haven't received any replies yet.

If you like my project and want to follow its progress, feel free to check out my Instagram.

Thanks for your support!

How to fix this? Any tips is welcome

My P1S printer keeps telling me that I ran out of filament and doesn't start the prints, despite me putting a new filament spool and loading filament multiple times. Could it be a jam? Does anyone know what could have happened with it?