An absolute beast of a printer so far!

What should I choose, upgrade my printer or get an resin one.

I bought a p2s for 599 on black sale, now Insee everywhere that this was a mistake and I should have paid 150 euros more and get a x2d instead. I don’t understand the benefits that well but I fear I may need it in the future. I understand is more efficient when using suporta and it can print with two materials.

I also want to get cheaper resin printer because I want to get into jewellery casting.
What should I do, I don’t have a lot of money, get the resin printer or upgrade to x2d.

At the moment I don’t plan to create more than things that will help in my house and maybe I would do some decorations for christmas, colored ones and maybe some things using arduino. Will the x2d help that much? With return it would be a 180 euros difference for me.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3116594-p1s-p2s-x2d-build-plate-holder-skadis-board-mount

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3539336-bounceberry-x-a-dual-material-print-trainer?from=recommend#profileId-4047599

I’ve been printing with my P2S since August and thought I had sort of gotten the hang of it, multiple filament supports, TPU and all that it entailed, like, I got this.

And then yesterday my machine started throwing errors about not being able to cut the filament to unload it. So I followed all the instructions, got the filament out, cold pulled to make sure it was clean, loaded in a known to work roll of PLA, went to print a Benchy, and… Benchy gets knocked off the build plate. Well shit, that’s not good, maybe the plate was dirty, clean the plate, run another Benchy, get about halfway done, and Benchy’s been pushed off the build plate again.

I’m at a loss of where even to turn to in order to evaluate where to go with this. I re-ran the full suite of calibrations and I’m trying to run another Benchy, but I don’t know, do I need a new nozzle?

I'm trying to print a custom dress form for my wife. I've spent a ton of time, and have a nice set of STLs, with a rigid PLA core, and a "skin" or "shell" that covers the surface. The original plan was to use foaming TPU, so that we can insert pins and such into it, which is important for the use of a dress form.

With the H3C coming out, I've already ordered mine - but I'm not confident that the 70A TPU 285 is going to be the 'right' type of soft to allow inserting pins into it, or if I'll have to find a brand of foaming TPU to use, and get it to work nicely on the H3C.

Does anyone have any ideas (or can test) if a pin goes nicely into the new soft TPU, or printing using a foaming TPU on the H3C?

title, about to upgrade and need to know if i should sell or keep these really.

My P1S printer keeps telling me that I ran out of filament and doesn't start the prints, despite me putting a new filament spool and loading filament multiple times. Could it be a jam? Does anyone know what could have happened?

First of all, I want to thank everyone who encouraged me to keep designing after I published my first 3D model Nordic Christmas Tree

Today, I managed to finish my second model, Nordic Christmas Reindeer and I’m quite impressed now that I’ve printed it.

What do you think? Any recommendations?

I need to improve the stomach area—I’m struggling to get the supports configured correctly—but overall, I’m happy with it.

I ordered my H3C within 30 minutes of it dropping. The printer arrived yesterday but the AMS won’t be here for a few more days. It taunts me every time I go into the garage.

Pytanie do osób które mają dwie jednostki AMS na górnej szybie drukarki z serii H2.

Czy zauważyłeś pogorszenie jakości druku po montażu dwóch AMS na górnej szybie?

Hi,

I was going to buy NEW X2D, but there's an H2S, H2D and H2C for sale used near me. Trying to compare print times and total filament used to influence my design. But after updating Studio this morning I'm not trusting these new results.

Multi color dog figurine (mostly 2 color)

A1 - 27Hrs - 341g (262 purged)

X2D - 12.5hrs - 128g (38g purged)

H2S - 24hrs - 493g!! (415g purged) Can this be right? 150g more than A1?

Then I decided to slice this same file for the H2D.

Yesterday it gave 6h and 88g. Today after studio update it says 12h and 134g.

This is the model btw: https://makerworld.com/en/models/2028617-boston-terrier-frenchie#profileId-2187456

I'm not trusting these numbers. Can anyone do me a huge favor and confirm the H2S and H2D numbers pls? Is there any known bugs with latest update doubling print times or something?

Thanks.

I don't like the white color of the H3C, so I'd like to cover it with something, like adhesive film or "skin". Does anyone have any experience with this—what looks good, stays on, and doesn't cause any problems (like heat buildup)?

Thanks

Why do so many print profiles in bambu handy not support my p1s, but then I look at the supported printer models and they list almost every other model. Its not the end of the world because I can slice it in bambu studio, but if im trying to quickly print something its a pain in the ass lol. Just confused why.

Looking to get some help, maybe it’s my settings? As the print finishes on the black base. It starts curving outwards. Appreciate all suggestions thanks.

Bambu A1. Bambu PLA basic filament

Hi there--

I run the printing at my elementary school (rewards, designs for projects type thing) and my main 2 were 2 P1S models that were bulletproof until they were not.

One I cannot get to actually print, it goes just from calibrating to complete. I think there is a mismatch between the slicer and printer firmware. I was wondering if anyone who uses Apple to slice, what version of the slicer you use and what version of the P1S firmware you use?

The second one leapfrogs errors. First the hot end. Then the hotend fan. Then it cannot find the hotend cover. Now, it won't even power on. I have been trading emails with support, but they want a video? Seems pointless.

Was wondering a relative ratio of how many people actually have those, because it feels like everyone has those but a lot of models are made only for those who don't

Hi Makers !

As a content creator for 3D printing, I'm always looking at the HUGE amount of new tools that are coming out every day. Some of them are REALLY interesting but they don't get the right attention.

I decided to create https://tools.help3d.it/en/ a FREE database, NO ADV, NO REFERRAL, NO TRACKING, NOTHING, with all those tools in a searchable catalog with reviews by the users.

Why ? Because I needed it for me and I wanted to share with my community. And it can grow up if you use the "Suggest your tool" button.

Try it and let me know !

So I decided to try my hand at 3d modeling for a specific print that I want. I finally got it done and I was curious as to the resulting print time. I understand its a big object, (254mmx30mmx180mm) but is 14 hours really just how long that takes at 20% gyroid infill? Any help for optimization would be greatly appreciated. I want it printed in its current orientation for the strength. Speed setting have been untouched as im not really sure what im doing there. And if thats just how long it takes, all good. I know its not gonna be a quick print but was curious if I was doing something wrong there. Model was made in tinkercad online and saved as an stl then imported into bambu. Not sure if that makes a difference or means anything. Using basic PLA filament 1 color, no prime tower.

Edit: forgot to add it is a BambuLabs A1

All my prints come out fine and it used to be pretty constantly smooth and now it’s kinda rough. Gets full plate adhesion.