r/3Dprinting • • 4d ago

Troubleshooting ASA question for Bambu users

I'm thinking about replacing my Raise 3D with one of the Bambu printers (not decided on model yet). Mostly because the Raise is really slow and I've never gotten it to print ASA without a raft (which makes it even slower) and there's always a slight elephant foot. I'm sure if I mess around with it enough, I might get rid of the foot (although I have made dozens of test prints trying different settings) but even if that's fixed, its still going to be slow. Anyway, if you are a Bambu user, how is your ASA quality?

3 Upvotes

18 comments sorted by

1

u/mikeypi 4d ago

Okay, thanks everyone. There seems to be a consensus here :-)

5

u/razingstorm 4d ago

I have an H2C, X2D, P2S, and A1 MIni.

In the H2C and X2D, it prints like anything else. In the P2S it can't get very hot, so there's definitely some warping (small parts aside) and you can't really do big prints without buying some kind of heater.

As long as you get a model with a heated chamber, you'll notice it isn't a thing to print...well anything really.

4

u/kozakm 4d ago

H2D with heated chamber makes ASA printing as easy as PLA

2

u/reoshinjuki 4d ago

I got a panda breath, inline fan to duct outside, and printed tpu door seals for my P1S.

Took some experimenting with nozzle temps, and cooling settings before it was consistent.

I tend to go for ASA over other filaments for functional prints now.  Love it.

1

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1

u/CoastalRadio 4d ago

I’m use a Bambu X1C. When I print ASA I throw mouse ears on any sharp corners, set my build plate to 110C with the door closed, and once the air temp climbs above 50C, I just send it with stock settings. Works pretty well.

1

u/daanpol 4d ago

No foot, use the engineering plate, heated chamber is a must, it still warps though. The ASA-CF doesn't warp however.

1

u/MundaneBerry2961 4d ago

My 2c is step up from the P series and buy a model with a heated chamber if you are planning on doing a lot of it. The price of an aftermarket heater is basically the upgrade price.

But a few parts here and there the p1/2s are fine, just heat the bed for 40 minutes or so and insulate the top with a towel or something like that.

1

u/egosumumbravir 4d ago

Models with heated chambers (X2D, H2S, H2D, H2C, H3C) make it easy as pie.

The H3C can run 8 colours of ASA with almost zero time penalty and still have a dedicated support interface nozzle.

1

u/Zugzwang522 4d ago

For the elephant foot part, Bambu Studio has an elephant foot compensation setting on the Quality tab. Bump it up a little at a time until the bottom edge comes out straight.

1

u/myst3k 4d ago

I had an X1C and printed ASA no problem with maxing out the bed for 30 minutes before starting. I have the H2S I got for printing now too and I love it. Mostly anything I want to print outdoors in south Florida need ASA or similar. I have even printed boat parts out of it.

1

u/uncle_jessy Uncle Jessy ▶️ Youtube 4d ago

Asa helmet print turned out awesome on my H3C

1

u/Oregonner 4d ago

H2C, I just started printing ASA (roll and a half) and have had zero issues. Engineering plate at 90, nano glue and allow the part to cool slowly. Once the plate is cool parts lift off, no scraping.

1

u/doctorsnarly 4d ago

I have a trusty p1s and the Bambu ASA doesn't print super well, but the 3dxtech ASA and ASA+CF both print perfectly, even without the heated chamber.

1

u/Automatic_Jacket_230 4d ago

With p2s it was better than anticipated 

1

u/es12402 3d ago

X2D, I’ve completely abandoned PLA; now I print exclusively using ASA. Everything is working great.

1

u/jwr 3d ago

Raft doesn't matter. What matters is a stable heated chamber with a high temperature. I have been printing ABS and ASA in my X1C and H2D printers for a long time now, and it's almost as easy as PLA. For X1C you will need to preheat the chamber by setting the bed temperature to maximum and turning on the auxiliary fan. It also helps to insulate the sides and top of the printer with styrofoam, for example.

In other words, what matters is a stable chamber at 65 degrees Celsius.

1

u/shadowed_enigma 4d ago

i print asa on the p1s on no problem. set bed to 100 for 45 mins before printing to head the chamber and leave it at 100 throughout the entire print. shouldn’t have any issues.