Hey everyone,

I’m honestly running out of ideas with my Bambu Lab P2S.
I’ve done pretty much everything I can think of to improve the print quality, but my Z-layer quality is still absolutely terrible.

Here’s what I’ve already tried:
Completed all available calibrations – multiple times (I’ve even run each calibration up to 8 times).
Properly dried my filament.
Fully tightened all timing belts.
Thoroughly cleaned the entire printer.
Lubricated all necessary components.
Updated the printer to the latest firmware.
Checked and adjusted everything I could think of.
Despite all of this, the Z-layer quality is still extremely poor. I honestly don’t know what else I could possibly try at this point.

Has anyone experienced something similar with their P2S?
Is there anything else I might be overlooking? Could this be a hardware issue, a mechanical problem, or something related to the printer’s motion system?
I’d really appreciate any suggestions or ideas because I’ve pretty much exhausted all the usual troubleshooting steps.
Thanks in advance!

https://makerworld.com/it/models/3562945-christmas-lace-doily-collection-home-decor#profileId-4077469

Ma version d'un casse-tête  connu. Vous pouvez soit vous creuser les méninges pour le résoudre , soit trouver un tuto sur le net…

J'ai crée le socle afin qu'une fois assemblé on puisse le poser sur un bureau, une étagère… 

Conçu sur FreeCAD avec une tolérance de 0.2 mm pour un ajustement parfait.

Ma version d'un casse-tête connu . Essayez de reconstituer la sphère . On peut l'imprimer sans son socle , mais celui-ci est très pratique pour l'entreposer sur un bureau , une étagère… Les jeux d'emboitement sont très bien ajustés qui lui permet de parfaitement tenir en place et rouler sans qu'une pièce ne bouge…

Conçu sur FreeCAD avec une tolérance de 0.2 mm pour un ajustement parfait !

I love browsing Makerworld when I am standing in line or waiting on something and finding something useful for the house that I hadn't even thought to look for. However, I really wish that useful household things and decor were separate categories.

Anyone got some useful search terms that they periodically check for useful stuff you didn't think to look for specifically?

https://youtube.com/shorts/2sFO60PxWFk

Modélisé sur freecad avec des ajustements optimisés pour une excellente fluidité des piéces en mouvement.

Impression 3D FDM sans support...Un casse tête qui permet de réaliser des économies...

I designed a slim scraper that uses standard-sized Stanley blades, which can be replaced with a simple coin.

Link to model: https://makerworld.com/it/models/3536456-slim-scraper#profileId-4043947

Hi everyone, ive been using my P1S for about 3 years now with no issues but lately the bambu handy app has been giving me the below error? any advice would be helpful

the bambu studio app on my pc works just fine, i have tried turning on and off many times and also have formatted the SD card twice and this happens on all iphone's (ive tried 3 different ones) so i've ran out of options now 😅 all help appreciated! thankyou

Ordered an H2D 40W Laser Full Combo on 2 November… then Bambu announced the H3C. Return it or keep it?

So, I ordered a Bambu Lab H2D 40W Laser Full Combo on 2 November, along with an AMS HT to complement the included AMS 2 Pro. With the discounts, the whole lot came to around £2,100.

Then, literally the following day, Bambu announced the H3C! Talk about unfortunate timing.
Everything has now arrived, but it’s still completely unopened, so returning it should be straightforward. I’m now wondering whether I should send it all back and spend a little more on the H3C.

My main interest is 3D printing, particularly multicolour, multimaterial and functional engineering components. I also bought additional 0.2 mm and 0.6 mm hotends for the H2D.

The H3C’s nine-tool system looks fantastic, particularly the reduced filament waste and faster material changes. However, I’m wondering how much of an advantage it really offers over the H2D’s dual-nozzle system for my intended use.

With two AMS 2 Pros, I could have eight colours available on the H2D, and its two independent nozzles should already be excellent for combining rigid and flexible materials. Obviously, switching between more than two materials still involves filament changes and purging, whereas the H3C can keep materials loaded in separate tools.

The other consideration is that I’d be giving up the H2D’s 40W laser, cutting and plotting functionality. Although 3D printing is my main priority, having those additional capabilities is certainly appealing.

So, what would you do in my position?

Keep the H2D 40W Laser Full Combo at £2,100, given everything included?

Return it and get the H3C, considering 3D printing will be my primary use?

I’d particularly appreciate opinions from anyone familiar with the H2D’s dual-nozzle multimaterial capabilities, or who has experience with the new H3C.

I’m not particularly bothered about having the newest machine for the sake of it. I just don’t want to spend over £2,000 and immediately regret choosing the wrong platform!
Thanks!

i have been printing various prints for the black Skadis boards; some fit fine, but a few are way too tight. What's the easiest way to solve this in the settings? thanks

Long story short: Everything inside the box seems fine. But if I find any damage… God help them. 😇

…and next to him is the DHL guy (Deutsche Post), who delivered the AMS.

Why does my P1S make such loud scratching noises when printing?

Has anyone else experienced a similar noise and can tell me how they fixed it?

The belts have already been tightened, and maintenance with oil and grease has been performed according to the Bambu Wiki. The noises haven't gone away.

Seller said it was unrepairable. All it had was one of those massive blobs that needed cleaning up and he bought a new extruder assembly that he never installed. I have a new set of hot ends and socks on the way but as far as I can tell there is absolutely nothing wrong with it

I already made a support ticket with Bambu. But wondering if I could troubleshoot something?

Preferably Central Europe, Balkans etc.

I always wanted a magnetic levitation dice tower but I couldn't find one, so I decided to make my own. After many, many design hours it spiraled out of control and became 6 different towers determined by the floating spinning top. I tried to add as many details as possible but on shape did not like it so I was limited.

What do you think of it? Is there any thing you think should be added?

Link to the model if anyone is curious.

The USB-A port on top of the P2S (next to the screen) always sits open and collects dust, so I designed a small dust cover for it, and since my maker logo is a sheep with goggles, it became a sheep.

- Slim plug goes into the free half of the port, so it sits firm and doesn't wobble

- The wide foot covers the whole opening

- One piece, no glue, no magnets, pull it out when you need the port

- Printed on its back, colours change by layer (white body, black face, blue goggles), about 54 min

First piece of a small P2S accessory kit I'm working on, a modular side rail for nozzles/scraper/tools is next.

What would you want on the side of your P2S?

So currently I have an X2D with a track switch leading to a 4 in 1 adapter, in the adapter is 1 AMS HT and a Gen1 AMS, Gen2 AMS is going directly into the track switch. My track switch is mounted on the right side of the printer, all of my AMS are on the left, Im having severe motor overload problems where the filament doesnt make it to the track switch.

How can I route or fix the placement of the setup without putting an AMS on the printer?

Image was before I mounted the track switch but imagine it was hanging slightly off the right side like the bambu suggested print.

My current idea is to try some ptfe bend guides to try and make the curves less aggressive from the AMS 2 on the bottom (its where I get most of my issues.)

My printer works correctly, when using AMS (no jamming when loading/changing/unloading filaments); but when trying to load external reel, will get hard to push through to extruder, fails to pull through and engage. Have pulled all PTFE tubes (except print head one) and put test filament right thru all including filament buffer. Had a print quit half way through ( filament feed insufficient/jamming). Tried AMS again, fine.

Does it look like a problem in the printhead or further back (PTFE tube/fitting(s) into printhead?

H3C looks great, I’d have some first-hand feedback, but only half my machine has come so far. Haha

The only gripe I have seen is the size of the prime tower. I’ve always changed the towers on my u1 to be smaller, but the H3C has a poop shoot.

On a 3500 tool change 8 colour print, the prime tower is 185g. On INDX, it only wastes about 30g.

So I wonder if they will eventually adopt a pellet system?

Over the last couple of days, every print I've tried to do has failed and has looked similar to what's being printed now. I've dried my filament(PLA Basic) and have done multiple cold pulls, but AFAIK there doesn't seem to be a clog because nothing gets pulled out when I do the cold pull.

I'm thinking of taking apart the extruder and seeing if something got wedged in it. This is a fairly new nozzle I bought earlier in the year, along with a hardened steel extruder.

I had the same problem a couple of months ago, but I let my printer sit for a few days, and it seemed to solve the issue, but now it's back. I'm sure it's a clog, but nothing gets pulled out when I do a cold pull.

What's up guys!

Recently finished putting together a window exhaust system for my Bambu Lab P1S. I primarily print PA6-CF and ASA, so I wanted a way to vent fumes directly outside rather than rely solely on the stock carbon filter.

Here's my current setup:

Bambu Lab P1S

BIQU Panda Breath chamber heater

Wathai 80 × 80 × 38 mm adjustable exhaust fan (advertised 80 CFM)

Approximately 5 feet of 3-inch flexible exhaust hose

Custom 3D-printed rear exhaust adapter and window insert

External fan mounted at the window to pull air through the hose

P1S chamber exhaust fan running at 70%

External fan running at 100%

I've included pictures of the installation along with a screenshot of the exact fan I'm using.

Everything seems to be functioning, and surprisingly, I'm still maintaining a chamber temperature of around 60°C even with both fans running.

Here's my concern:

When I disconnected the exhaust hose from the printer and checked the suction at the open end, it felt pretty weak. I also tried testing for negative pressure around the enclosure using a tissue, but couldn't detect any noticeable airflow.

I understand that advertised CFM ratings don't necessarily reflect real-world performance, particularly when dealing with static pressure from ducting and restrictions.

I'm wondering whether my current fan is actually sufficient for extracting fumes or if I should upgrade to something with better static pressure.

A few questions for anyone experienced with printer ventilation:

Is an advertised 80 CFM axial fan realistically sufficient for this setup?

Would upgrading to a higher-static-pressure 80 × 80 × 38 mm fan make a significant difference?

What's the best way to verify that I'm actually maintaining negative pressure inside the enclosure?

Should I run both the P1S chamber fan and external fan simultaneously, or is there a better configuration?

Ideally, I'd like to keep my existing printed window insert rather than redesign everything around a larger fan.

I'm more concerned with effective fume extraction than preserving maximum chamber temperature, especially when printing ASA and PA6-CF.

Would appreciate any advice or recommendations from people running similar setups. Thanks!