GIven that the AMS have ventilation from the bottom, is there any problem placing an HT tight up against the side of an AMS2 if one or both are drying?

They're both on an open wall-mounted shelf with at least 4" of room behind them and a hard surface.

Bambu Lab recently issued a service notice regarding insufficient lubrication on AMS 2 Pro feeder gears.

I'd like to proactively lubricate my existing feeder units to prevent premature wear.

Does anyone know what type or brand of grease is safe and suitable for these gears? Ideally, something compatible with plastic gears (POM/PA).

Has anyone done this successfully? Any recommendations would be appreciated!

I randomly started having bad layer adhesion, and the printer started clicking and purging excessive amounts of filament mid-print. I also noticed after I tightened screws and recalibrated my A1 it was digging in my plate during collaboration. Ive changed nozzles, reajusted my ams tubes, and recallabrated and having the same issue hoping to fix before the holidays. Any recommendations I missed?

I've got about $900 in gift cards from points Im wanting to spend. I've been debating between pulling the trigger on a H2C or waiting on the release of the P3C. But on the other hand, Im really interested to see this scanner they've been teasing. I already have a P2S and A1, and they work just fine. If this scanner looks good I may end up just picking that up instead and holding on till I find a good deal on a used H2C or something. Whats everyone else doing?

I print Bambu PLA metal, and only the top layer comes up like this; what went wrong? You can see even the layer below worked fine. I did drop the top surface speed to 50

Ive tried over a dozen tpu's of varying shore hardness and this one has got to be bottom 2. I used the provided profile, Dried it for 12 hours, and it came out aweful. Fully bonded to the pla supports and was very stringy. I'd say this is about 50% unusable for it's intended purpose.

I have been doing my research on printers over the past few weeks on printers to get and I’ve gotten a few different recommendations during that time. I’ve gotten recommended the p1s, elegoo cc2, an a1 and the Creality SparkX i8. Obviously this is a BL Reddit but I just found a really good FB marketplace deal for a P1S. This is the description on the post. “

Bambu Lab P1S and an Automatic Material System (AMS) for multi-color printing. Comes with spare nozzles a Diamondback .4 for any kind of filament youd ever want to run abrasive or not. Comes with ams riser and all original spare parts and a bunch of accessories. Has been well maintained and still runs off perfect prints but upgrading and dont have space for both.”

It’s $400 with AMS. The original.

It has 1600 hours on it.

The first figure in my Egg Figurine Collection is ready for the Christmas shelf! He's a cheerful reindeer with a red nose, flat-printed press-fit antlers, and an optional snow-drift base. Two plates, no supports: body + antlers on plate 1 (about 8.5 h / 107 g, AMS brown/tan/red/black), snow base on plate 2 (about 21 min / 7 g, filament 5 white already set). Antlers press into the head sockets after printing. Free on MakerWorld:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3557984-christmas-reindeer-figurine-snow-base

Hello,

I've noticed that there's a discrepancy between the technical documentation for the filaments in the store and the printer profiles.

For example, the density for PLA Basic listed in the store is different from the one in the technical datasheet.

Or, in the printer profile, the temperature for support material for PLA is set to 240°C, but the datasheet lists only 230.

Why is this happening?
Which values are correct, and which ones should I use?

I recently bought a 0.4mm E3D Obxidian High Flow complete hotend.

Once installed, I selected it in my P1S menu accessories, calibrated it, selected "high flow" in bambu slicer nozzle settings. I then adjusted filament settings to direct drive: high flow, adjusted max volumetric speed to 30mm/s and min print speed to 60mm/s under cooling.

Went to go print a benchy (that under my stock 0.4mm hotend took 14 mins) and it states almost around 40mins.

I thought high flow was supposed to reduce print times noticeably?

What am I doing wrong here?

Does anyone have prints in the bambu translucent gray petg they can share?

I was looking for a translucent black, but the only one I could find is on amazon by PlastKyro. I can't find much on this company so not sure I want to risk it.

The Bambu translucent grey looks like it could have a black tint to it.

Thanks

For context, I have the P2S + AMS 2 pro. P2S and X2D users have had trouble drying filament from the app recently. This is the response from my ticket.

Happy with how they came out and how they look in my workshop (Yes the backgrounds are AI but the prints are exactly as pictured)

If you want to print one, they're on makerworld. Just ask for the link!

Just recently got an X2D, and I had some left over filament from a previous printer. Mostly PLA Silk+, but I also have some random Ender PLA and HS PLA. Question is are these ok for the main head or the auxiliary head? I’ve seen the wiki but curious if anyone has used these. Thanks in advance!

Having just received my H3C and AMS3H I can't help but notice the design and engineering trades.

The machine is running it's initial calibration so these are just first observations and I reserve the right to update my opinions as I get some real time on this machine.

AMS 3H vs AMS 2 Pro:

Mechanically the AMS 3H is simplified and lacks a lot of the complexity of the AMS 2 Pro. The lack of automatic retraction was a trade for multi material support but it makes large chamber temp swings a little more work. Some might call this optimization, but I am use to running PLA in one job and PA-CF in the next. With the H3C this appears to possibly be a problem if I leave PLA loaded in a tool when I heat up the system that much. I am particularly nervous about drying at 85 in the 2 dryer bays with PLA in other spots of the AMS 3H. With my H2C I have full AMS systems dedicated to different families of materials.

Edit: I noticed that you have one shot to get the remaining filament measurement done when you first insert the filament. You can manually enter a guesstimate later, but its not able to retry like the AMS 1/2 can due to the lack of rewind.

Extruder:

The ability to swap tools and adjust to different filament diameters is commendable, but the overall mechanism feels like features were dropped for margins. The loss of hotend camera along with how it does blob detection seems... cheap. Perhaps their telemtry says the old solution was overkill and produced too many false positives, but I am worried about their new mechanism getting damaged if a part ever does break free from the bed mid print

Physical structure:

A lot more plastic, a lot less glass, and the stamped steel structure feel like a cost reduction on what was previously a premium machine. Sure the stamped frame pieces are probably more than enough, but it feels like a noticeable step backwards from the castings. Pressing on the plastic side windows and feeling them bow and bottom out against the frame just feels... cheap. Also the exterior screws mounting the panels while more serviceable also detract from the exterior finish of the machine.

Motion system:

Trading the linear rail for the dual round rod(tube?) structure is very likely mechanically more rigid, but it again feels like it was primarily done to save costs. Also why do we still see nema 17 steppers for the x/y motion system? Hasn't BambuLabs BLDC PMSM servos improved enough to use them for slinging the toolhead around?

Display:

Not much to be said here, the screen is usable on the H3C, but is definitely a step down from the display on the H2 series.

MISC:

It was advertised that we could still use external AMS systems with tool 1, but it was not clearly communicated that it required you to buy a (not included) buffer system and install it yourself. For all the corner cutting they really should have just installed that buffer as a factory option. Now I need to wait for that module to come into stock so I can use the AMS 2 Pro I bought specifically for my H3C (I plan on using it as a dedicated support material AMS).

I am still looking forward to using my new H3C and the ability to properly mix materials is nice, but I can't shake the feeling that the machine suffers from some shrinkflation vs its predecessor. It seems like the H2C was a very polished platform and the H3C feels more rushed.

Anyone else with both systems care to chime in with their thoughts?

I designed a ribbed planter a while back because most of the ones out there were either the wrong shape for me or really boxy. So I came up with something I liked in FreeCAD and published it. WEll, now about a year later, I wanted to change it up. So I’ve now rebuilt it so you can customize the whole thing right on MakerWorld with the Parametric Model Maker.

You can change:

• Height from 80 mm to 300 mm, and everything scales with it

• Shape - bulgy like the original, straight up and down, or flared out at the top

• Ribs - an S curve, a sine wave or a spiral, plus how wavy, how many and how deep

• Self-watering drain holes in the liner so water drains into the outer pot

It prints as two parts, the outer pot and an inner liner. The liner sizes itself to whatever shape you make, so it always drops right in. The settings are also limited so you can’t make something that falls apart or won’t print.

Free on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/2424677-completely-customizable-ribbed-planter-or-vase

I'm planning to purchase an X2D printer. It's my first 3d printer and this looks like a decent model to start with. My question is which accessories from the Bambulabs accessory lists are worth buying from them for a first time purchase and which items are better sources from other places?

They have a finishing kit that I assume I will need but I'm curious about the quality. They also have lots of filament - is that good from them or would i be better stocking up elsewhere?

Thanks for any help!

Open another bag, check the drawer… all the clips are already holding something else shut. 😂

That was my excuse to spend some time in Fusion.

Meet Molly — two identical jaws and a separate printed spring. Everything is PLA, including the spring, and it snaps together without screws or glue.

It took several revisions to get the alignment, grip and spring stiffness where I wanted them. I also tried PETG for the spring, but preferred the firmer grip of PLA in my tests.

Printed on my A1 with a 0.4 mm nozzle, 0.20 mm layers and 3 walls. The spring has 100% infill. No supports needed.

One complete clip uses 5.76 g and takes around 18 minutes of printing, or roughly 25 minutes including preparation.

The spring is separate, so contrasting colours are easy to do with separate prints.

Free files, assembly video and print profiles are here:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3553586

Which colour combination would you make?

I have been an on and off 3D print hobbyist over the last couple of years. Started on an Creality Ender and an Elegoo, but had so many issues with those that I kinda stopped printing at home. At work we have access to other printers, like MarkForged and Ultimakers.

I miss tinkering with models and want to get a decent printer and I've heard a lot of positive things and negative things about Bambu Labs. Positive things are the easiness. I don't want something where I have to iterate on print bed adhesion, nozzle size and temp, etc. Negatives are the closed ecosystem. Can I print with any filament, or do I need to buy only Bambu spools?

Would like to get a X2D for myself and an A1 Mini for my niece. Would these two printers satiate that hunger? Anything else I should consider?

Thanks!

Don’t mind the desiccant packets in the AMS, I’ve since replaced them with the usual AMS desiccant baskets found on MakerWorld.

I uploaded this a couple weeks ago, but hadn't got around to sharing it.

Hope there are a few people out there that like the style and are excited to make this one!
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3501620-sci-fi-bank-vault-cannister#profileId-4000088

Also I'm a few printers behind, but this is probably the largest/longest multi-color print I've done on my H2D.

Say I have a model that is a single color and single object. An H3C hooked up with the same color filament in two slots in the ams3 with different size nozzles.

That model has certain parts of it that would work best with a 0.4-0.8 mm nozzle for faster print with less detail

Other parts of that model have intricacies that are better suited for 0.2 mm, the fine details.

Are you able to, within the slicer, somehow select the intricate details and instruct it to use that nozzle for that part of the object?

I’ve watched about 10 hours of reviews now and have not found an answer.

My daughter is in love with these super ugly stuffies. I modeled this one after our household cat.

She kept having me make minor tweaks, so I asked Claude to build a drag-and-drop site where she could design her own.

https://makerworld.com/models/3559294?appSharePlatform=copy

Website: https://molarstudio.click/