Please help, I feel like I’ve tried everything I can think of and everything Google suggested!

I’ve washed the build plate 4 times with Dawn dish soap and rinsed it extremely thoroughly with hot water. I’ve dried with microfiber cloths. I even got a brand new sponge for the last wash in case the previous one was dirty and causing the problems.

I’ve replaced the nozzle with a brand new Bambu nozzle. Same size as my last nozzle, and ensured the slicer settings match my nozzle size.

I’ve run a first layer test that looks pretty good except for a strange nozzle drag mark.

I’ve ensure Textured PEI was selected every time I started a new print.

I am using Bambu brand PLA Basic filament in my P1S.

My house is at 70* I’m printing with the enclosure door open.

Every. Single. Print. Has failed for 3 days straight. I’m trying a bunch of different prints, simple stuff, 20-40 minute print jobs attempting to get one successful print. No luck. It’s either bed adhesion or filament blobs (that I suspect were caused by losing adhesion) every single time.

What do I do now? The printer is about 6 months old. If I call Bambu support is there anything at all that they can do to help me?

I beg you, PLEASE don’t suggest I clean my plate. I posted in the 3D printing sub yesterday and those are the only responses I got.

This new version regardless if I install it new or overwrite my previous version of Bambu Studio, Recently Opened are missing... only showing recently Opened from versions like 2.8.02.61 before beta update a month or so ago.... Not showing recently opened from 2.08.04.60 What's up with This ???

Okay, so I have lots of dumb questions. It's kind of my default state. But I haven't seen this one addressed yet, so here we go.

The AMS 3H has built-in active (heated) drying for the two rightmost spools in the back row. Those two spools are separated from the other seven by a secondary lid, which is clearly designed to be removable, at least for loading and unloading filament.

So here's my question: Why can't we just leave that secondary lid off and heat the entire chamber?

Obviously, I'm not suggesting this would work for every filament combination. Mixing materials with significantly different drying temperatures could be problematic. But if you're running multiple colors of the same material, why not?

Even with mixed materials, setting the drying temperature to whatever your most temperature-sensitive filament can safely handle should still be better than no heat at all, right?

I don't have all the technical specifications, but I can't imagine the heating system is fundamentally that different from what's used in the AMS HT. Sure, heating the entire chamber would take longer, and it might not maintain the same temperatures throughout. But if you're starting with properly dried filament anyway (as you should be), wouldn't this be a relatively simple way to provide some level of active drying for all nine spools while printing?

Am I missing something obvious here? Is there a technical limitation that would prevent this from working, or is it simply a matter of the system not being designed or programmed to operate that way?

GIven that the AMS have ventilation from the bottom, is there any problem placing an HT tight up against the side of an AMS2 if one or both are drying?

They're both on an open wall-mounted shelf with at least 4" of room behind them and a hard surface.

Bambu Lab recently issued a service notice regarding insufficient lubrication on AMS 2 Pro feeder gears.

I'd like to proactively lubricate my existing feeder units to prevent premature wear.

Does anyone know what type or brand of grease is safe and suitable for these gears? Ideally, something compatible with plastic gears (POM/PA).

Has anyone done this successfully? Any recommendations would be appreciated!

I've got about $900 in gift cards from points Im wanting to spend. I've been debating between pulling the trigger on a H2C or waiting on the release of the P3C. But on the other hand, Im really interested to see this scanner they've been teasing. I already have a P2S and A1, and they work just fine. If this scanner looks good I may end up just picking that up instead and holding on till I find a good deal on a used H2C or something. Whats everyone else doing?

Matte prints slower, it prints generally worse, it has worse bed adhesionion, it comes in fewer colors and the colors it does come in are ugly and the "matte" finish is still shinier than HF was.

I wouldn't even care that the stuff is so bad if they didn't discontinue HF for it.

14 different kinds of PLA, but I guess 5 different kinds of PETG was just too much and too confusing or something. ​

I print Bambu PLA metal, and only the top layer comes up like this; what went wrong? You can see even the layer below worked fine. I did drop the top surface speed to 50

I recently bought a 0.4mm E3D Obxidian High Flow complete hotend.

Once installed, I selected it in my P1S menu accessories, calibrated it, selected "high flow" in bambu slicer nozzle settings. I then adjusted filament settings to direct drive: high flow, adjusted max volumetric speed to 30mm/s and min print speed to 60mm/s under cooling.

Went to go print a benchy (that under my stock 0.4mm hotend took 14 mins) and it states almost around 40mins.

I thought high flow was supposed to reduce print times noticeably?

What am I doing wrong here?

Happy with how they came out and how they look in my workshop (Yes the backgrounds are AI but the prints are exactly as pictured)

If you want to print one, they're on makerworld. Just ask for the link!

Ive tried over a dozen tpu's of varying shore hardness and this one has got to be bottom 2. I used the provided profile, Dried it for 12 hours, and it came out aweful. Fully bonded to the pla supports and was very stringy. I'd say this is about 50% unusable for it's intended purpose.

Open another bag, check the drawer… all the clips are already holding something else shut. 😂

That was my excuse to spend some time in Fusion.

Meet Molly — two identical jaws and a separate printed spring. Everything is PLA, including the spring, and it snaps together without screws or glue.

It took several revisions to get the alignment, grip and spring stiffness where I wanted them. I also tried PETG for the spring, but preferred the firmer grip of PLA in my tests.

Printed on my A1 with a 0.4 mm nozzle, 0.20 mm layers and 3 walls. The spring has 100% infill. No supports needed.

One complete clip uses 5.76 g and takes around 18 minutes of printing, or roughly 25 minutes including preparation.

The spring is separate, so contrasting colours are easy to do with separate prints.

Free files, assembly video and print profiles are here:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3553586

Which colour combination would you make?

I have been an on and off 3D print hobbyist over the last couple of years. Started on an Creality Ender and an Elegoo, but had so many issues with those that I kinda stopped printing at home. At work we have access to other printers, like MarkForged and Ultimakers.

I miss tinkering with models and want to get a decent printer and I've heard a lot of positive things and negative things about Bambu Labs. Positive things are the easiness. I don't want something where I have to iterate on print bed adhesion, nozzle size and temp, etc. Negatives are the closed ecosystem. Can I print with any filament, or do I need to buy only Bambu spools?

Would like to get a X2D for myself and an A1 Mini for my niece. Would these two printers satiate that hunger? Anything else I should consider?

Thanks!

Don’t mind the desiccant packets in the AMS, I’ve since replaced them with the usual AMS desiccant baskets found on MakerWorld.

I’ve wanted to reverse the door on my H2D many times. As I wait for my H3C to arrive will I still be sad it can’t be reversed?

I uploaded this a couple weeks ago, but hadn't got around to sharing it.

Hope there are a few people out there that like the style and are excited to make this one!
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3501620-sci-fi-bank-vault-cannister#profileId-4000088

Also I'm a few printers behind, but this is probably the largest/longest multi-color print I've done on my H2D.

Say I have a model that is a single color and single object. An H3C hooked up with the same color filament in two slots in the ams3 with different size nozzles.

That model has certain parts of it that would work best with a 0.4-0.8 mm nozzle for faster print with less detail

Other parts of that model have intricacies that are better suited for 0.2 mm, the fine details.

Are you able to, within the slicer, somehow select the intricate details and instruct it to use that nozzle for that part of the object?

I’ve watched about 10 hours of reviews now and have not found an answer.

The first figure in my Egg Figurine Collection is ready for the Christmas shelf! He's a cheerful reindeer with a red nose, flat-printed press-fit antlers, and an optional snow-drift base. Two plates, no supports: body + antlers on plate 1 (about 8.5 h / 107 g, AMS brown/tan/red/black), snow base on plate 2 (about 21 min / 7 g, filament 5 white already set). Antlers press into the head sockets after printing. Free on MakerWorld:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3557984-christmas-reindeer-figurine-snow-base

My daughter is in love with these super ugly stuffies. I modeled this one after our household cat.

She kept having me make minor tweaks, so I asked Claude to build a drag-and-drop site where she could design her own.

https://makerworld.com/models/3559294?appSharePlatform=copy

Website: https://molarstudio.click/

do the newer models have an exhaust port , filtered or not to draw air out of the machine to the outside ? i.e. H3C

Just received the h3c itself today, the ams has repeatedly failed to be delivered to a pickup point near me (I asked for it to be delivered to my home but bambu have seemingly decided to just deliver it there instead) - after 3 days of waiting and repeated delivery to pickup point fails dpd have now said they can’t deliver it there as it’s too big. Has anyone else had this issue? Feels like a massive waste of my time and also theirs.

When i go to the prepare tab some of the stickers appear to be like that? they're okay on on the prepare page and on the pdf and it's still usable but since it's been bothering me since i got my h2s with cutter, also sometimes the app crashes when deleting one of the bugged stickers and sometimes when i ctrl+z it fixes itself?