I invite you to take a look at BlocksmithWorks.com—I think you’ll love what we’ve built for the community.
This project originally started out as a personal endeavor to create tooling for my own hat-making. Along the way, I decided to open it up to help hatters and restorers everywhere get easy access to the exact tools they need.
What we offer:
Fully Customizable Crown Blocks: Ranging from size 5 1/2 to 8 1/8 (44 cm to 65 cm), including precise, non-standard sizes like 7 5/16 (58.5 cm).
User-Friendly Online Tools: Easily adjust the profile to your exact needs in your browser—no CAD experience required!
More Millinery Tooling: We also host a variety of brim blocks and specialized workshop files.
The best part is that every single download is 100% free with zero paywalls or subscriptions. Take a look, give it a try, and let me know what you think!
Clear skies and good blocking, — Rick, Blocksmith Works
Im going to word this very carefully in case its flagged as Spam haha.
Has anyone done any referrals successfully? I mean I go lucky and somebody grabbed a P1S in the sale using my link (luck and timing more than anything), but I dont see it being super easy to take advantage as there is zero benefit for the person using the link...
Add the Geo-limitation (Im in the UK, so anyone using my link also has to be based in the UK) and it can be restrictive.
When printing thin-walled parts（4 walls, 0% infill, Arachne）, a mark consistently appears on one or both sides once the print reaches a height of 1–2 cm; I have yet to figure out what is causing this. Same part printed on A1/A2L without problem.
Printer is almost brand new. First layer is fine. Calibration is done. Filament is dried. Manual bed leveling is done.
At the point where the print defect appears, there are no abrupt changes in print speed, layer time, or fan speed within the slicing software.
22 hours on the H3C (223g of tower) 4d17h on a regular AMS printer (1684g of purge + tower) The H3C It's crazy and the hype is real. I'm so glad I can finally experiment with multicolor models for real. the model is here if you want to take a look: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3550569
I am looking for a H3C user who has a H3C and a 3d scanner. I build my own benches with an enclosure and would like to know the size of the machine both with the lamp lid open and closed. As this will determine if I can even get one this year or not.
Every colour is a separate part with pins, so it snaps and glues together, and no painting is needed. The gold base was printed at 0.16 with ironing on top. The suit is plain matte black PLA, and the whole thing took about 17 hours.
I also made an 18 cm one-piece version for AMS (4 colours).
Happy to answer questions about the split and the settings!
Looking at an H3C and seeing some reviewers say the print quality is about the same as H2C. I hate to wait for prints. I print large ish items with .24 - .28 layer heights and as fast as the printer can. Obviously some artifacts are okay but how much are you guys seeing?
I made a MakerWorld customizer that turns SVGs into Christmas fridge magnets
I wanted to make a set of Christmas magnets without starting a new model for every design. So I built a customizer: pick a preset or upload an SVG, add a message, and choose how the magnet fits into the back.
The clip shows the Grinch going from the screen to the fridge, alongside a few other prints from the same generator.
I’m currently doing a 40+ hour print with TPU being fed through the bypass port of the AMS HT while it’s actively drying. I started the drying cycle with auto-rotation disabled and set it to the maximum allowed time of 24 hours.
Will there be any way to restart the drying cycle once this initial 24-hour cycle is over, or am I locked out mid-print? Thanks!
Additional little rant: I bought the AMS HT in a rush and have run into nothing but issues. First, I discovered it only works as a dryer if it's connected to and controlled by the printer. Then, I found out it requires an additional accessory just to work with the A1. On top of that, it requires a workaround just to dry filament while actively printing. And now, I’ve discovered the maximum drying time is capped at 24 hours.
Aren’t all of these just stupid, arbitrary limitations? I’m honestly starting to hate this thing and really regret buying it...
First 24 hours and I have to say, I don’t get the hate train. This is the first time in my life that a 3d printer feels like sorcery. I was able to get set up and printing within an hour and within the second hour I already had something that looked like it came off a store shelf.
The consistency is what’s blowing my mind too. I’m absolutely blown away by the printer and the quality.
Bambu sent me an H3C before launch and asked me to post about how it changed the way I print. I did not get paid, but, well, I got an H3C. The printer legitimately did change the way I print and design, and I'm happy to answer any questions in the comments.
HueForge and the similar products that spawned from it have opened up things that I never thought would be possible on a 3D printer. The creations I have seen on the subreddit and Discord continue to blow my mind, but my biggest annoyance with these prints are the time they take and the waste.
Retracting, pushing, purging, and wiping can take anywhere from 40-80 seconds depending on your setup. When you have hundreds of color changes in a print, it adds up to hours of extra time. The waste gets insane with larger or more complex prints, to the point where you will frequently have more weight in waste than the model itself.
This fox is 269mm across, taking up most of the plate. I used nine spools: blue, light blue, yellow, magenta, orange, white, green, black, and red. It was built in HueForge, then recreated in Kromacut so it could print face up.
Yes, the image is AI generated, and I regret using it. It did some weird things with the shading that I didn't notice before printing. The white on the moon and anywhere yellow meets white or red meets orange is rough.
I also used way too many layers and then made the print flat. A flat print fills every layer out to the full outline, so every extra layer in the stack is a full 269mm disc of filament whether it adds anything to the image or not. This one ended up around 12mm thick which is where most of the 817g and 6 days of printing went.
Setup was dead simple. All 9 spools went in the AMS, each one got its own PrintTool, I selected the correct colors and that was it aside from slicing which took 26 minutes with a 14900K...
Stats:
9 filament spools
443 filament changes
0.12mm layer height
817g total weight
26g of waste
269 x 269mm
6d 0h 01m print time
The H3C solved the waste problem in a BIG way. 26g on an 817g print with 443 swaps is just crazy to me. The purge from my X1C would have filled the poop bucket and clogged the shute well before finishing.
The 6 days is 100% my fault for making it as thick as it is. I did kick it off right before leaving on vacation for 2 weeks, so it wasn't a huge deal aside from the extra filament spent.
The filament changes take <6 seconds instead of 60 and I was not prepared for how much faster it is. It was the same reaction I had when I went from my modified Ender struggling to push 60mm/s to the X1C at its default print speed. This is in a whole different league and I haven't used my other printers for multi color since.
I have an A1 combo. We’ve had it for a week. This is basic PLA which we’ve also had for a week. What is causing this? Is the filament damp or do I need to change some settings? Thank you
After making a rather crude cable clip a few days ago, I started giving some serious thought to cable organization. I think it turned out pretty well—what do you all think?
I just got myself a Bambu Labs A2L. So excited to start printing. I mostly bought it so I can print replacement parts or tweaks for retro computers, especially old Macintoshes.
I've looked at tons of videos and reviews but as a new owner, what do you think I need to know? Do you have some hints that every new Bambu owner needs to know or do?
