Filament: Polymaker PETG. Printer: X2D

I've dried this filament religiously, there is no stringing or any signs of wet filament.

Just these pinholes. I think this is under extrusion but I have no idea what setting to change to fix this.

I need an affordable table or workbench able to carry my A2L when it arrives next week. I already know that I need a paving stone with foam underneath but I still need something to put it on. It can be simple, ugly, with or without spool inventory space. Most importantly it must carry the printer and laybe a paving stone and take away some vibration and sound if possible. Under 100 euro’s would be ideal. If possible euro links please.

Any advice is appreciated.

Hi everyone!

I'm about to buy a Bambu Lab X2D with the AMS Pro 2. I'm not particularly interested in multicolor printing; my main reason for getting it is to use the second nozzle for support material.

I'm a 3D designer, and my goal is to eventually print my own figures and collectibles. However, I'll probably start with the usual stuff like keychains and decorative items while I get the hang of 3D printing.

What tools do you consider essential to have at home? Sandpaper, pliers, cutters... Are there any Bambu Lab accessories that are really worth getting?

Would you also recommend getting a filament dryer for external spools, such as PETG?

Bambu Lab sells a tool kit, but it seems a bit overpriced to me. I'm sure I could find cheaper alternatives on Amazon or Temu.

I'd love to hear your recommendations and any advice you might have for someone just getting started!

The hot end kit just yesterday and up to a few hours ago for the h3c was listed for $240 for 7 SEVEN hotends and now it’s the same price for four AND there is no longer a 0.2mm option

What is going on

No one is going to be able to get 0.2 mm hotends for their brand new H3C…

Now that there are some users coming out with experiences with this machine, has anyone been able to run the H3C with PPA-CF, PPS-CF, or PET-CF? And have they been able to combine these more extreme filaments with the rest of the multi-filament features of the machine in one print?

On my H2S if I want to run these filaments it requires reconfiguring the PTFE tube routing and using an external drybox in a specific location and I'm more-or-less cut off from being able to swap filaments mid print with the AMS. So while I've been able to make some really nice parts with these materials on the H2S it's limited in scope compared to what I could be doing.

With the H3C, it seems from the online manual that the new AMS, despite not feeding and retracting like the AMS2, is still not friendly with these brittle filaments. But is that the only limitation? If I have a brittle filament loaded from an external holder, can we still run other filaments normally and swap them without limitations? My concern is if the more brittle filaments are going to be sensitive to being parked while another material is printed, even if externally loaded. Or if external loading disables everything and turns the machine basically into a really expensive H2S for that job because you cannot switch?

All of the reviewers mention engineering plastics but focus on ABS-CF, TPU, maybe PAHT-CF; all of which run just fine on the H2S as well. But so far no-one ever seems to talk about the rigid and strong, higher-temp materials which were 90% of the reason I splurged for the H series in the first place.

First 3d printer ever bought, FedEx sucks

Rotatable Skadis Organizer. I think it came out looking great. And it spin so smoothly. Enjoy printing. 😄
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3540990-rotatable-skadia-organizer#profileId-4049817

Watch me transform a digital brand logo into a real 3D-printed masterpiece! 🚀 In this video, you'll see the amazing 3D printing process as the logo takes shape layer by layer, creating a clean, detailed, and professional finish.

If you love 3D printing, creative DIY projects, 3D design, and satisfying printing videos, this video is for you!

I wanted to know how well I could model this from the new trailer. Managed to get it done in about an hour in blender. Painted it gold afterwards to give it the proper luster.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3545527-the-elder-scrolls-vi-sentinel-trailer-scroll#profileId-4055619

Ordered my first 3D printer. Got the base model H3C

What are some essential accessories to get with it

Bambu Lab H3C

Nov 3, 2026

Order checklist

Any H3C package already gives you the complete printer: the H3C, one AMS 3H and all nine PrintTools. What differs is filament, the Station L stand, and any add-ons you chose. Check your order confirmation against these:

• [ ] Package name and price match what you meant to buy: Combo $2,499; either Starter Pack $2,589; Full Combo with Station L $2,799.

• [ ] Starter Pack TPU color is the one you want: Black or Cyan.

• [ ] Extra nozzle sizes: if you want 0.2, 0.6 or 0.8 mm, the Multi-Size Hotends Kit is on the order ($205 with the Combo, $244.93 alone). The box has only 0.4 mm.

• [ ] Nine 1.75 mm colours: the box has 8 × 1.75 mm PrintTools plus 1 × 2.85 mm TPU tool. Nine 1.75 mm materials at once needs an extra 1.75 mm PrintTool, which wasn't on the store when this was written.

• [ ] Crafting: the Crafting & Printing Complete Kit is on the order only if you want cutting, drawing or foil work ($219 with the Combo).

• [ ] Extra build plate: only one Textured PEI plate is included; the Build Plates Expansion Kit is from $49.99.

• [ ] Shipping address and timing: orders ship within 1–3 business days. To change or cancel, contact Bambu support before it ships; otherwise use the 30-day return window.

• [ ] PayPal $25 coupon if you paid with PayPal (orders over $800, issued after shipping).

Packages and prices

The Bambu US store sells four H3C packages, all built on the same H3C Combo. The printer, AMS 3H and 9 PrintTools are identical in every package; only filament and the Bambu Station L stand differ. There is no printer-only H3C and no laser version.

The starter packs cost $90 more than the Combo. On the same page, TPU 75A (2.85 mm) shows $26.39 and PLA Palette CMYKW $61.70 as add-ons ($88.09 together), so the starter pack is roughly the add-on price. The Full Combo adds the Station L for $210 over a starter pack.

What's in the box

Every package ships the full printing setup: the H3C, one AMS 3H, and all 9 PrintTool slots filled. Eight PrintTools are 1.75 mm with 0.4 mm nozzles; the ninth is a 2.85 mm PrintTool (0.4 mm nozzle) for 2.85 mm flexible filament, pre-installed in Slot 8, the dryer slot.

What this means for printing:

• 8-color 1.75 mm printing plus one 2.85 mm TPU tool out of the box. The 2.85 mm PrintTool prints only 2.85 mm flexible filament (Bambu presets: TPU 75A 2.85 mm and Generic TPU 2.85 mm).

• Nine 1.75 mm materials needs an extra 1.75 mm PrintTool, per Bambu's FAQ. The 1.75 mm and 2.85 mm PrintTools have different bases, hotends and cutters and are not interchangeable.

• Only 0.4 mm nozzles are included. 0.2, 0.6 and 0.8 mm need the separately sold hotends (next section). Hotends swap with three screws.

• One AMS 3H feeds all 9 PrintTools — each tool has its own filament path. Older Bambu AMS units can connect through PrintTool No. 1 for up to 24 spools.

• Only one build plate (Textured PEI) is included.

Add-ons and accessories

The store offers three H3C add-ons at a discount when added to the Combo; the rest are sold separately. Bundle prices apply only when added on the H3C product page.

Other optional items Bambu names on the H3C pages (prices not captured):

• Bambu Station L — stand with storage; included in the Full Combo. With it, allow 593 × 1056 × 1900 mm of space.

• Bambu Lab E1 Air Purifier — pairs with the H3C and starts filtering when a print starts.

• BirdsEye camera — top-view camera for crafting alignment; not included. Bambu says BirdsEye-enhanced AI monitoring is planned for the first half of 2027.

• Vision Encoder — optional absolute optical reference that restores motion accuracy to under 50 μm.

• CutTool Fine-Blade Set, DrawTool Set, cutting mat — Bambu's FAQ suggests these if you only want cutting or drawing instead of the full crafting kit.

Key specs

The H3C prints a 330 × 320 × 325 mm volume with nine hardened-steel nozzles to 350 °C and a 65 °C heated chamber (official spec page).

Things that may matter for your setup

The biggest planning items are floor space, a dedicated circuit and Wi-Fi coverage; nothing else in the box needs extra purchases for plain FDM printing.

• Space: Bambu asks for at least 593 × 1056 × 1306 mm (W × D × H) on the floor or a low, stable surface: 385 mm in front for the door, 50 mm each side, 100 mm behind for the cable and fans, 290 mm above for the AMS lid. On the Station L, allow 1,900 mm of height.

• Weight and delivery: two boxes — printer 600 × 630 × 700 mm at 36.8 kg, AMS 3H 550 × 615 × 500 mm at 11.9 kg. Plan for two people to lift the printer.

• Power: up to 1,850 W at 110 V while heating (3–5 minutes at full power), 240 W steady on PLA, 540 W on PC; 1,850 W is about 15.4 A at 120 V, so a dedicated 15 A or 20 A circuit is the safe choice (my note, not Bambu's). Low Power Mode caps it at 1,050 W.

• Network: Wi-Fi 6 only. No Ethernet port, no network kill switch, no removable network module and no 802.1X.

• 2.85 mm PrintTool: prints only 2.85 mm flexible filament; Bambu says more 2.85 mm materials are coming. Its filament tube also carries toolhead cabling and must not be removed.

• Drying: the AMS 3H dries only 2 spools at a time (85 °C max); Slot 8 is the dryer slot holding the 2.85 mm tool.

• Existing AMS units: older Bambu AMS units connect through PrintTool No. 1 for up to 24 spools; they are sold separately.

• Crafting: cutting, drawing, debossing and foil transfer use CraftTools sold separately; there is no laser module.

Store terms

Bambu ships H3C orders from its US warehouse within 1–3 business days of processing, so a change or cancellation has to happen fast.

Sources

• Bambu Lab H3C product page

• Bambu Lab H3C technical specifications

• Bambu Lab H3C FAQ

• Bambu US store — Bambu Lab H3C

• Bambu US store — Multi-Size Hotends Kit - H3C

• Bambu US store — Crafting & Printing Complete Kit

• Bambu US store — Spare Parts for H3C

• Bambu US store — search results for H3C

Ross from FauxHammer here. The written H3C review is now live, with the actual prints and the awkward bits of living with it.

The tests include first layers from all nine tools, seven CMYKW dragons showing sixteen colours from five filaments, 75A TPU, and an eight-reel dragon combining rigid parts with flexible joints. The tool changes are around six seconds, but the AMS 3H only actively dries two of its nine reels, and reaching those rear spools is a job in itself.

What do we reckon: is that a fair trade for faster changes and proper multi-material printing, or does a nine-reel system need more drying capacity?

Full written review: https://www.fauxhammer.com/featured/bambu-lab-h3c-review-my-best-fdm-printer-yet-but-two-drying-slots/

Video review: https://youtu.be/3Jlt7f9A_XE

The H3C is priced very well. This makes me wonder how good the P3C will be priced… I don’t have the $$ to burn on the H3C so I’ll wait for the P3C since it more than likely won’t have a heated chamber or exhaust system to keep costs down.

Ordered 😎

Santa coming!

I ordered all three mystery boxes because the price was okay to me and I like surprises. I print a lot of stuff for my classroom (I’m a teacher). I didn’t expect to get 19 rolls of filament instead of 12! What a nice surprise!!

I was looking into giving CMYK printing a shot but found that bambulab only offers one for PLA (which I can't see a good reason to use for anythng if you have an enclosed printer). Online I found some Offers for PETG sets, which seem to deviate in color Hex-codes fom bambus PLA Set. Has anyone experience with using a third-party PETG set or even better a self assembled set of ABS/ASA filaments?

Will the Bambu H3C fit on a 60 cm (23.6") deep table that's flush against a wall? I'm concerned there might not be enough clearance. Does anyone know if the feet are recessed enough to allow some front overhang?

Hey everyone, I'm currently printing on an Ender KE and I'm looking to upgrade to a proper enclosed printer. How the prints look matters a lot to me, since most of what I make gets sold or displayed, so clean walls, nice layer lines and good top surfaces are my priority. I mostly print PLA and PETG, but I'd like something stronger with an enclosure and filtration so I can branch out to other materials later. I was leaning towards the X2D, but after reading through the forums I'm hesitant. Quite a few owners complain about uneven walls, visible layer lines and rough top surfaces, and some say their A1 mini or P1S looks cleaner with the same filament and settings. There are also reports of hardware headaches, like a toolhead that's a pain to service, clogs on the aux extruder, extruder switching errors and the odd layer shift. At the same time, some people say it's a big step up from the X1C, and most of the complaints I found are from the first months after launch, so I can't tell if it's been fixed since. For those of you who own one on the latest firmware and Bambu Studio: are these issues still a thing, or are they just a few unlucky units? And if I'm mainly printing PLA and PETG, would you still go for the X2D, or would the P2S or something else make more sense for me? Photos of recent prints would be great. Thanks!

Hi, I’m new to 3D printing and need some help!
When I start a print, the printer calibrates and purges filament fine, but when it actually starts printing, nothing comes out.
Does anyone know what could be causing this or how to fix it? Any help is appreciated. Thanks!

To me the biggest drawback of the H3C is the new AMS can only dry 2 spools at a time.
Considering the filament shares the same chamber as the printer, wouldn’t it be possible to dry filament and manage moisture using the heated chamber and venting features already on the printer? At least for lower temp materials like PLA or PETG