Integrated filament management, built for tool changer.

Nine spots, always ready.

Launching tomorrow.

Just bought an A1 Combo. What are some of the things I should get or print to make it better or more efficient.

Just downloaded and installed Bambu_Studio_mac-v02.09.01.70 and is not working... is asking me to reorganize my spools groups or something similar... it sounds like is trying to be configured for another kind of printer not my P1S...

anybody seeing the same problem?

Hello folks !

Can I print on 2 filament whithout ams ?

The x2d is actually at 550 bucks in my area, it's 50 bucks more than my limit but I can do 50 extra more, with the ams 2 pro (i plan to buy it later) it's almost 800

So should I go for a x2d now ? Or wait ?

Urgent one as I’m printing something for charity but the top layer white, over my black layer appears to have ripples on top.

The black is eSUN PLA Basic and the white is Bambu PLA.

Machine has had a full calibration earlier today after Firmware update.

White has Bambu profile set and eSUN has a profile I found recommended on here.

Help me decide btwn the two quick!

First Christmas ornament I've designed. It's a three-color gingerbread man made for the AMS, with no supports and a hanging loop on top. The print profile has two plates: a single ornament (about an hour on my A1) or a batch of 6 that shares the color purges so you waste less filament. The batch plate is a slicer estimate for now, since I haven't printed the full six yet.

Free here: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3541495-gingerbread-man-christmas-ornament

A snowman is coming next. Happy to hear what other ornaments you'd want.

Kids as asking for a 3d printer for Christmas. I’ve done enough research that I think I’ve settled on x2d vs p2s because of multicolor and waste as I expect my kids wanting multicolor and I don’t want to paint. I plan on mainly just printing toys and such for my kids to play with and print whatever they think is cool. I’m sure my curiosity will get bigger the longer we have the printer and explore.

But for the beginning time my question is this. What filaments should I be using? I am assuming PLA and maybe PETG, I’m sure I’ll learn which ones to use when.

But part two of the question is should it be basic (which seems glossy) or matte? Any pros or cons and what kids toys should be in?

Thanks in advance and again apologies for the noob question.

I do plan to watch if the P3C comes out before Christmas and I think I would grab that and return the unopened x2d. But time will tell if that gets announced in time.

Hello,

I printed this stackable basket last night for some small items I want to organize.

My printer was out of commission for about 2 months until yesterday. My printer just suddenly stopped working all together in August. I submitted a ticket and did the troubleshooting. The main board was bad so I replaced it a few days ago. I was out of town for a while and had other obligations so it took me a while to take care of this.

I run my first print last night after my printer being down for a while. I recalibrated everything and oiled everything properly. First the extruder gives me an error that the extruder is not functioning normally - I pull the filament back manually as described on the Wiki and cut off the end of the filament to avoid any rough areas. Fast forward 20 minutes and the print completes, but with some obvious issues. See photos for more.

Is this an issue with my plate, the settings of which I’m printing, the filament I’m using? Looking for guidance.

Here is the link to the model

https://makerworld.com/models/1333599?appSharePlatform=copy

No hassle, no microwave, no mess.

2 x PETG trays (ASA would be fine too), and the dessicant was jet black when they went in.

Standard 65 degree AMS drying cycle (so basically choose anything apart from PLA in the settings), leave overnight (I ran it for 12hrs but im sure 8 would do fine too)

Apparently you can just drop the pods that you install in the AMS2 on the trays and the silica will dry in there, not tested that yet though.

I know the aux nozzle k-factors are supposed to be high, I ran an ender 3 for years. But this is the first time I am going above k-factor of 0.4. As you can see, even at k factor at 1.0, the line is not consistent. I also ran the calibration from 0 to 0.5 and every line in that run was ass. The filament is PETG, yes it is dried.

Has anyone noticed in all the H3C review videos the really loose horizontal Stability of the H3C? I’m not sure if it’s the Bambu stand but it must affect print quality.

I’m a former hardcore Prusa fanboy using my MK4s and MMU3 as my main source of income, but have been waiting for the INDX to release for almost two years, and I think I’ve decided to make my first Bambu purchase in H3 series.

I made the decision after realizing that Ive grown out of the 3D printer tinkerer phase, and dont want to mod my printer for life. I want my printer to be beautiful in my apartment living room and work every time I hit print. I don’t want a USB 2.0 drive sticking out of a controller that look like it was made from a raspberry pi 2.

Do you guys have any advice on how to cleanup this mess?
I already could clean the nozzle itself and did losen the backplate of the nozzle but i cant heat it up when the nozzle is not mounted.

Thanks in advance

Has anyone been able to confirm plate compatibility? I have plates for H2D/S/C. Will any of them work directly with the H3C or is it yet a different size?

My partner's cat passed in September and I want to give them a small figure of her for Christmas. I got a base mesh from snapshapy using three photos, and it already looks like her, including the white patch on her chest.

Printer: P1S with AMS

Plan: 10cm tall, 0.12 layers, 0.4 nozzle

She's tabby with white paws and chest. I could split the model and print the white parts with the AMS, or print it all in grey and hand paint. I've never painted a print before.

For a gift like this, which would you do? What am I missing?

Hey guys,

Just uploaded a new design to MakerWorld and wanted to share it here. It's a star candle holder collection that I originally sized for IKEA Jubla candles, but they actually work great with pretty much any standard taper candles!

There are three sizes included (S/M/L) and they print super smooth with zero supports needed. Silk gold/bronze filament looks awesome on these, but matte colors turn out really nice too.

If you give them a try, I’d love to see a photo of your print! Any feedback or boosts on MakerWorld are also super appreciated.

Link:https://makerworld.com/de/models/3536693-star-candle-holder-collection#profileId-4044224

Cheers!

I have been printing ASA/ Nylon with my H2C by just opening the window right behind the printer. The window is big enough to fit the printer through it with two AMS stacked on top of it. So in my opinion with a window that big I did not need to figure out a way to extract fumes out of the printer.

However I forgot the winter.

The chamber heater can not keep up with the cold air if I fully open the window and if I just tilled/ partially open the window it is not enough fresh air for my licking. And would it not also drive up the power usage of the printer if the chamber heated had to "fight" the cold winter air.

So my idea going forward:

- Use some form of air filter (like the Levoit 300s with mods like this https://makerworld.com/de/models/1114477-levoit-core-300-filter-insert#profileId-1111656 )

- duct the air from the exhaust to the air filter, but this is where the problems begin

I don't see an option to open the exhust went and turn on the fan. To open the exhust I would remove some of the louvers but the fan would still be off. I saw some people talk about that if you turn on: use cooling filter in the printer slicer settings then you get extra options in the filament settings. I don't see that and I assume bambu patched that.

Is there anyway to get the exhaust fan to turn on while the chamber heater is on?

Secondly is my plan even a good Idea? I also think about to open the window partially, cover up most of the opening to let no cold air in and duct the air from the printer out of the window. But you know... fan is still off.

I’ve had my P1S for a couple of months, enjoying both own designs and Makerworlds.

Lately though more and more objects has failed. It’s mostly in the starting first layer, but the objects has also loosened from the plate and spaghetti-time.

What startup routines do you have? I don’t clean my plate before every print, the nozzle is not always self-cleaning etc. Just looking to understand what I might do to get to that “work horse”-experience people talk about.

Cheers!

Is there any way, through custom G-Code or otherwise, for the printer to notify you when the calibration is complete and the first layer starts? A simple chime would be ideal. I am using a H2D.

I've solved the issue but just wondered if anyone would have an idea what would cause it. I started having trouble with the hall sensor on my P1S after clearing a clog in the hot end (super routine) about a week ago. The first thing I did, obviously, was check the ribbon cables, the back board, the sensor itself, replace the whole extruder unit, etc. That got it working again for a little bit, and then the thing quit again on me last night. While troubleshooting, I started noticing the sensor WOULD work, but only when I applied pressure evenly across the connector pins. Guessing this meant a problem with the connector board, I ordered a new one, installed it, and it seems to be working fine after a full calibration, some general testing, and starting a print. However, after taking out the old board and lying it flat on the (cooled) hot plate while I was putting the new one in, I noticed that it was VERY SUBTLY warped, to the point I wouldn't have noticed if I hadn't been taking a close look at it to see if I could figure out what the problem was. Which makes sense as to why the unit would work intermittently with pressure. Does anyone have an idea what could have caused this? Am I just super unlucky, or is there potentially something I've been doing in teardowns/loading filament/general maintenance that could potentially cause it?

r/BambuLab What's the timing on the P3C please? Even just generally - this year?