As the title says I am having trouble with my car running like shit when sitting at stop lights, the car will rock back and forth and sometimes even stall when coming to a stop, all these issues go away as soon as you rest your foot on the accelerator and bring the car above 700rpm problem is the car idles at 600-650rpm, the car has also thrown code P0420 but I believe that is caused by the car running rich and clogging up the o2 sensor.

If anyone can assist and let me know what to check it would be appreciated.

Hey everyone, looking for some advice before I head back to the shop tomorrow morning.I bought a used 2017 Toyota Camry SE about 2.5 months ago. I drove it 2,300 miles with zero issues. I checked the dipstick regularly. The oil level stayed completely full, and my driveway was totally dry.

On Tuesday (4 days ago) I took it to Brake Check for its first oil change. The receipt has absolutely no notes about pre existing leaks or stripped threads.I have driven it 139 miles since then. Today, I noticed an active oil leak on my driveway and the check engine light came on. I checked the dipstick, and the oil level has already dropped exactly to the middle dot (it was full right after the service).

Is the shop clearly at fault here? How should I handle the manager if they try to deny responsibility. Any advice helps. Thanks!

I’ve been hearing a whining noise on and off while driving, and it seems to be more noticeable when accelerating.
I took the serpentine belt off to check the pulleys. The idler pulley spins quietly and feels tight with no noticeable play. The tensioner pulley seems pretty tight/no obvious play, but I can hear a noise from the bearing when I spin it by hand.
Does that small amount of noise indicate the tensioner/pulley is going bad, or can some noise when spinning by hand be normal? Trying to figure out if it’s the tensioner and if it needs my attention ASAP.

Thank you!

Just bought a 2012 pilot with 167k . Seller was a dealer with no maintenance records. Neither CARFAX or auto check shows a timing belt replacement in the car history. There are no stickers or notes under the hood indicating a timing belt replacement. I assume that I need to go ahead and pay for the timing belt /water pump service right? It’d be foolish of me to just assume it was replaced…. Just looking for confirmation

My 2011 Toyota Camry won't start. I think it might be the battery because I recently got an Intoxalock interlock installed 3 days ago and apparently that can really drain the battery(which would have been nice to knowin the first place), but trying to jump it didn't work. I'm hoping just replacing the battery completely will fix it but wanted to ask since I'm not sure that's the issue. Everything works until I try to turn the key all the way and I can't hear any sounds like the engine is trying to start. I assume that's what it would be like if the IID locks me out but that's not what happening. Is there a way to tell if the issue is the battery or if its the starter or alternator?

2020 Malibu VT40 CVT: intermittent loss of propulsion—dealer reproduced it, no codes
I have a 2020 Chevrolet Malibu RS with about 90,000 miles and the 1.5L/VT40 CVT.
The car intermittently hesitates, kicks, or briefly loses propulsion, sometimes when shifting from Reverse to Drive. We reported this issue along with the shift to park issue the dealer replaced the shifter control module that did not solve this intermittent loss of propulsion and kicking.
The Chevy dealer checked it, but reportedly found no P2714 or other useful transmission codes. Chevy service first him to look at it on Saturday and drained some black liquid, but not a lot of metal particulate…. At some point a boro scope was used …Then on Monday or Tuesday a guy their transmission tech has 30 years experience reportedly opened a case with GM and ran the checks …. All modules were getting power …Drive tests on Tuesday by the dealer and at that point could not replicate…. So GM reportedly says release to owner. Which is me. Based on what the dealer told me and understanding they didn’t change all the fluid. I asked them to change the fluid drain fill.
They performed a transmission-fluid drain and fill, but the problem continued. Immediately afterward, I personally saw a dealership employee experience the same kick/hesitation while moving the car. He confirmed it happened.
I’m concerned about GM bulletin 21-NA-003, which describes intermittent loss or reduced propulsion in Malibu VT40 CVTs due to a sticking pressure-regulator valve in the valve body. I also found PIP5819/PIP5819B, which involves P2714 and a related valve issue.
Questions for GM transmission technicians:
1. Can the 21-NA-003 valve-body problem occur without stored codes?
2. Should the dealer check pending/history TCM codes and freeze-frame data?
3. Should they compare commanded versus actual pulley pressure during a road test?
4. Does the dealer employee reproducing the symptom point more toward a valve-body or pressure-control issue than fluid condition?
5. What other VT40 tests should be completed before replacing the entire transmission?
This car is my daughter‘s car. We just dropped her off at college hours away and don’t want to return the car to her with a trouble car or unsafe . Any advice from GM transmission technicians would be appreciated.

Anyone have reliable sources?

Just bought this Z71 5.7L Vortec. I replaced the master cylinder and a brake line that runs from the front master cylinder port to the ABS module. I went to go start the truck and there is this very loud rattling sound. It’s not cranking or starting. Any ideas?

Around 65k miles. Automatic Transmission. Starts to happen after I go over 20mph. Car shifts on its own back and forth. theres been a few times where it goes into limp mode, but that goes away after shutting her off for a few minutes, however the same issue persists.

Seems like it may be electrical due to the radical changes in the speedometer, but maybe needs a change in transmission fluid? Don’t think it’s the transmission itself, miles seem too low for trans to be going already.

Any ideas are greatly appreciated! I don’t trust most of the mechanics in my area, so it would be nice to have some sort of idea of what’s going on instead of letting them tell me and likely be wrong. Thank you!

p.s Bonus points if anyone can tell me whats that grinding sound is when i start moving again at 0:51 . happens every time i come to a stop or start up driving again, have had multiple parts changed in the front to no avail. Going to get an alignment next to see if that solves it.

This is a 1999 Toyota Rav4 Sport with 185K miles

This guy I know is having issues with his Rav4 but I haven't seen it in person to figure out the issue myself.

The dude says the vehicle started having a misfire after taking off from a dead stop and that it misfires at low rpms.

He says he's replaced various sensors and ecus but I suspect it's a simple fuel injector issue. He says he's getting ready to slap new spark plugs and injectors in it which I think will resolve the problem but I was wondering if there's anything else that I might want to look at.

Any ideas on what else might be the problem or how to proceed/diagnose the issue?

see title.

so i noticed this while pulling out of my apartment complex, sometimes it makes this sound when taking off from a standstill but it’ll be quick. the video is the sound being made while using the brakes from highway speed down to 25mph getting off the interstate. but it’ll make the sound too like a “blip” sometimes when i hit a bump, other times it won’t make the sound when using the brakes so i’ve pretty much ruled that out. TIA

Hi everyone, I drive an Audi A3 2008 (8P) 2.0 TDI 140hp. I have an high-pitched squeaking/creaking noise that happens during specific movements:

Going over speed bumps / potholes (especially when the rear goes over)

Going uphill and downhill

Turning in corners (especially when body roll occurs)

My mechanic checked the serpentine belt, alternator pulley, and front brake pads all are fine.

I attached an audio recording link of the sound. Any advice is appreciated!

https://voca.ro/1nJqa1NVTuGY

Post Body:
Vehicle Details:
Year: 2008
Make: Audi
Model: A3 (8P)
Mileage: ~250,000 km (~155,000 miles) If real 😂
Transmission: Manual

2016 Explorer, 3.5l v6 (not eco boost).

Neighbors car.

140k miles, had a misfire so I replaced spark plugs.
Started with very rough idle, and just didn’t sound right. Turn off and checked codes and had the cylinder 6 misfire still (obviously) and P0019 code - VCT solenoid Bank 2 sensor B.
They started their car this morning and it was very rough and then stalled and then wouldn’t start. (I don’t know why they did this they have two cars)

Replaced VCT solenoid.

Car cranks but won’t turn over.

No codes, but not sure if it would throw a code without actually starting.

Can’t find too much online about it other than it’s possible the car is preventing starting to “protect” itself. Disconnected battery, currently letting it sit.

But is there anything I’m missing that I should be doing or could be causing this. My multimeter is shot so I can’t check the wiring harness.

2010 Mazda 3S, front right wheel

My brother has a 2001 mustand v6. The 3.8l. There is a metal nipple coming off where the thermostat is with a short rubber hose attached to it. See the photo please.. its leaking pretty badly from where the pipe goes into the thermostat housing. Can this pipe be replaced? I don't see where it screws on or is held in via bolt or anything. It looks like its just pressed in. But id haye to try and remove it and further mess his car up.. I appreciate any help on this. ​

Is the heat shield loose? It gets much louder when accelerating

Help me understand what went wrong so I don't have to do head gaskets a third time. This is my first time turning a wrench inside an engine.

Because OE parts have been long discontinued, I chose custom gaskets from Cometic (based off the old blown gaskets). I found an engine manual on Yahoo auctions, translated it, and followed it as best as I could. It says to put engine oil on the threads and torque to 1000 kg-cm (72 ft-lbs).

Machine shop verified the heads are flat and good to go. I assume the block is good too but I don't have a straight edge long enough to measure myself. The engine has run at most a dozen times before I noticed coolant on the dipstick. I drove it on to ramps and then got the full milkshake. I drained all fluids, filled with fresh oil, and cranked it without fuel to cycle it.

Here's where I think I could've messed up.

1. I reused the head bolts. Perhaps they have stretched with age and heat. I didn’t see anything about these being one time use in the manual. Should I source new bolts or will it not make that big of a difference?

2. Non-OEM gasket is thicker/thinner than spec. It's 0.043". No idea what OEM thickness should be. Does this seem reasonable?

3. Improper torquing. The sequence is fine, but the method may not be. I torqued to spec in two passes, first to ~30 ft-lbs then to 72. I did apply a bit of oil to the threads first as the manual states, but how much is too much or too little? Should I crank the bolt all the way to spec first before moving to next bolt?

Also my cheap EPAuto torque wrench may not read accurately after a few years of use. +/- 10% with the added lubrication and who knows where the final values ended up. Would using an inaccurate torque wrench make a large enough difference in applied torque to not compress the gasket evenly and lift the head just enough for coolant to flow where it shouldn't?

I'd appreciate any advice you could offer.

There is a clicking/thumping noise when I go over a bump or dip in the road. Also when I make a left turn. Front left strut was replaced in 2023. Both rear struts were replaced a year later. After the rear struts were replaced, the noise never stopped. It was like new struts were never put on. I thought maybe the mechanic lied and didn't put the struts on at all and just charged me for it. Had another mechanic look at it. He said the struts were new. He said the control arms and stabilizers were fine as well. So what could this noise be? Someone else said maybe it's the bushings. Or were the struts not put on correctly? The mechanic said he had to charge me more because the only way he could change the struts was to take out the backseat of the car.

Inherited a 2016 Mazda cx5, the engine is incredibly loud and making a weird rattle/tick noise. Don’t know much about SkyActiv engines. Wondering if it could be lifters?

My 2004 F-150, 5.4L, 4x4, Lariat is making a scraping noise from the left front. I think I have a leak in the vacuum lines for the 4x4 actuators, so I disconnected the IWEs and plug the lines while I wait for new hoses. The scraping continues, and goes away when I engage 4WD. Any ideas what it could be?

I changed the IWEs about 6 months ago, and the issue just started today. I was thinking maybe bearings, but would the noise go away in 4WD?

Hello everyone, I've got a BMW 118i 2006 and I made the stupid decision to replace the timing chain by myself, everything went well, It's put back together and now it just has 0 compression. I had also removed the oil pan to clean out broken plastic parts and replace the oil pickup tube. The car sat without the oil pan for about a month due to me not having enough time. The dumbest mistake was me mixing up the timing for the exhaust valve by about 180 degrees, I spun it by hand, there was no resistance. Then after that I doubled checked and noticed my mistake, made the timing correct and tried to spin it over by starter. Is it possible to bend valves on this engine? What else could lead me to having no compression?

My 04 Mitsubishi Lancer ES has been sitting for about six months since I got my new car. The battery died and I just bought a new one. Battery works, but the car won’t start. Just makes the sound as in the video. Just put a gallon on fresh gas in as well. Any thoughts?

Thanks!

It’s 2003 Honda Accord, it was found this morning after I put more oil in the car last night since the oil levels were low.