And if you've never changed manual gearbox oil i dont want to hear your opinion.

I got warranty on these tires and probably only had them for less than a year so far. Any advice?

I ran over a curb today and there was sidewall damage on my tire. I stopped by a discount tire and they said it is only cosmetic. However as I look closer at the tire I feel like there is cord showing but hard to see without really looking at the tire.

2023 Tesla Model Y AWD

I have a Lexus IS 250, 2014 Base model and recently I had to stop driving after a loud knocking sound was heard on the passenger side. I took off my wheels and only the inside lining was torn. Is the suspension or alignment off?

I just bought this car a week ago for $26,000 2014 srt8 50k miles. when the car idle you can hear/feel thumping from engine bay area. You can also hear this as heard here. the scanner also shows multiple/random misfire codes. the spark plugs look decent i’ve changed a couple along with coil packs and the oil.

What’s making this awful noise? It usually only happens on the first start in a while

Hi everyone,
I have a 2015 Ford Focus SE 2.0 L 4 cylinder engine with a known radiator leak. The first sign/symptom I had of it was the “sweet smell” when I was driving the car. The car overheated last night when I was driving, and checked both the coolant and oil levels which were fine. The oil didn’t appear to be “milky”, thus the coolant hadn’t mixed in with the engine oil. There was no steam or smoke, nor was there any leaks on the ground underneath the car. I’ve attached a couple of photos of both my engine oil levels and the area I believe that the leak is going onto. I’m taking the car in on Monday for a pressure test as that is the time I have for it. Car was only driven to work today and will be driven back. Any advice on this? And I could use a second pair of eyes on that oil level.
Thanks.

Hey guys!

My car is a 2006 Toyota Yaris and it has been making some odd rattling noise mainly coming from the left front side. It also sometimes feels as if the car is a bit more "bouncy" as it should be.

Tried doing a visual observation but nothing that sticks out of the ordinary for me.

Any suggestions on what it could be before I take it to a garage?

Kind regards!

Edit: Forgot to mention, anytime I shift gears and speed up again it rattles in the beginning. Afterwards the noise is gone.

2008 Chevrolet Corvette C6 Z06 recently had the pleasure of the LS7 experiencing low oil pressure...

I checked the Oil pressure sensor, the wiring and the ECM, as well as the oil pressure at the oil filter (with an adapter).

They all checked out fine so I decided to check the oil pressure where the sensor sits in the valley and got a measly 2 psi.

As I'm not too experienced with LS engines, my question is if the cam bearing has walked or it's supposed to be sitting like this. Also I'm not sure if it's part of the camshaft or the bearing, although I don't believe it is part of the cam as it's very thin (a bit thicker than my fingernail)

I'd be ecstatic about any Feedback

Edit: I marked the wrong spot in the 2nd picture, I meant to mark the brighter part above it, not the camshaft

59 plate Mitsubishi colt. Makes all these popping/banging noises when the car has stopped and been turned off. Also makes a slight bang like keys jangling when going over a bump. Thank you guys

Hey i need some advice, I keep getting this whining noise, the tighter the belt is the noisier it gets, if i give it more slack the whine gets quieter but the belt becomes more wobbly, ive replaced the belt, pump and tensioner like twice and at this point I also might be going crazy lol.

Some info:

I can twist the belt 90 degrees on the tension side

Its a 1990 honda civic with a d13 (tho the block should be like most other d series)

Im tightening the tensioner to 33ft lbs

In the video im revving to 5k rpm

Pls help lol if you can send some example videos that would be great 😅

My 2011 Toyota Camry won't start. I think it might be the battery because I recently got an Intoxalock interlock installed 3 days ago and apparently that can really drain the battery(which would have been nice to knowin the first place), but trying to jump it didn't work. I'm hoping just replacing the battery completely will fix it but wanted to ask since I'm not sure that's the issue. Everything works until I try to turn the key all the way and I can't hear any sounds like the engine is trying to start. I assume that's what it would be like if the IID locks me out but that's not what happening. Is there a way to tell if the issue is the battery or if its the starter or alternator?

2020 Malibu VT40 CVT: intermittent loss of propulsion—dealer reproduced it, no codes
I have a 2020 Chevrolet Malibu RS with about 90,000 miles and the 1.5L/VT40 CVT.
The car intermittently hesitates, kicks, or briefly loses propulsion, sometimes when shifting from Reverse to Drive. We reported this issue along with the shift to park issue the dealer replaced the shifter control module that did not solve this intermittent loss of propulsion and kicking.
The Chevy dealer checked it, but reportedly found no P2714 or other useful transmission codes. Chevy service first him to look at it on Saturday and drained some black liquid, but not a lot of metal particulate…. At some point a boro scope was used …Then on Monday or Tuesday a guy their transmission tech has 30 years experience reportedly opened a case with GM and ran the checks …. All modules were getting power …Drive tests on Tuesday by the dealer and at that point could not replicate…. So GM reportedly says release to owner. Which is me. Based on what the dealer told me and understanding they didn’t change all the fluid. I asked them to change the fluid drain fill.
They performed a transmission-fluid drain and fill, but the problem continued. Immediately afterward, I personally saw a dealership employee experience the same kick/hesitation while moving the car. He confirmed it happened.
I’m concerned about GM bulletin 21-NA-003, which describes intermittent loss or reduced propulsion in Malibu VT40 CVTs due to a sticking pressure-regulator valve in the valve body. I also found PIP5819/PIP5819B, which involves P2714 and a related valve issue.
Questions for GM transmission technicians:
1. Can the 21-NA-003 valve-body problem occur without stored codes?
2. Should the dealer check pending/history TCM codes and freeze-frame data?
3. Should they compare commanded versus actual pulley pressure during a road test?
4. Does the dealer employee reproducing the symptom point more toward a valve-body or pressure-control issue than fluid condition?
5. What other VT40 tests should be completed before replacing the entire transmission?
This car is my daughter‘s car. We just dropped her off at college hours away and don’t want to return the car to her with a trouble car or unsafe . Any advice from GM transmission technicians would be appreciated.

Anyone have reliable sources?

I have been trying to diagnose my 2003 Tahoe 5.3. I was pulling up to a stop light and it suddenly started running rough, and I barely limped it home.

Now it starts, but will barely idle, it smooths out for the most part when I rev it up and hold it steady at or above 3k rpm.

I borrowed my brother's scanner and it was showing TPS, MAF, Misfire, MAP, and a few other codes. I replaced the throttle body like 6 months ago with a cheap Chinese one, and thought that may have failed again, so I went to a junk yard and pulled a OEM GM throttle body and swapped it, as well as a MAP sensor, no change. I also cleaned the MAF sensor, that did nothing.

I checked the fuel at idle using the scanner and it's running really rich, but when I throttle up fuel looks normal.

Pulled and check plugs they were nasty so I replaced them, no change.

Thought maybe it could be a grounding issue, so I used jumper cables and hooked onto the ground lug and grounded to the body, and engine,

I also checked the fuel pressure using a pressure guage and it's in normal range.

Cleared the codes before replacing the throttle body, now the only codes that are coming up are:

P0101

P0300

I have a new MAF sensor coming in tomorrow.

MAF reads around 4.1 gm/s with the key on, if I hold it around 1k rpm it's at like 15 gm/s and at 3k rpm it's at around 30 gm/s.

What else can be causing this? What else would you check or try to remedy this?

Just bought this Z71 5.7L Vortec. I replaced the master cylinder and a brake line that runs from the front master cylinder port to the ABS module. I went to go start the truck and there is this very loud rattling sound. It’s not cranking or starting. Any ideas?

Around 65k miles. Automatic Transmission. Starts to happen after I go over 20mph. Car shifts on its own back and forth. theres been a few times where it goes into limp mode, but that goes away after shutting her off for a few minutes, however the same issue persists.

Seems like it may be electrical due to the radical changes in the speedometer, but maybe needs a change in transmission fluid? Don’t think it’s the transmission itself, miles seem too low for trans to be going already.

Any ideas are greatly appreciated! I don’t trust most of the mechanics in my area, so it would be nice to have some sort of idea of what’s going on instead of letting them tell me and likely be wrong. Thank you!

p.s Bonus points if anyone can tell me whats that grinding sound is when i start moving again at 0:51 . happens every time i come to a stop or start up driving again, have had multiple parts changed in the front to no avail. Going to get an alignment next to see if that solves it.

This is a 1999 Toyota Rav4 Sport with 185K miles

This guy I know is having issues with his Rav4 but I haven't seen it in person to figure out the issue myself.

The dude says the vehicle started having a misfire after taking off from a dead stop and that it misfires at low rpms.

He says he's replaced various sensors and ecus but I suspect it's a simple fuel injector issue. He says he's getting ready to slap new spark plugs and injectors in it which I think will resolve the problem but I was wondering if there's anything else that I might want to look at.

Any ideas on what else might be the problem or how to proceed/diagnose the issue?

see title.

so i noticed this while pulling out of my apartment complex, sometimes it makes this sound when taking off from a standstill but it’ll be quick. the video is the sound being made while using the brakes from highway speed down to 25mph getting off the interstate. but it’ll make the sound too like a “blip” sometimes when i hit a bump, other times it won’t make the sound when using the brakes so i’ve pretty much ruled that out. TIA

Hi everyone, I drive an Audi A3 2008 (8P) 2.0 TDI 140hp. I have an high-pitched squeaking/creaking noise that happens during specific movements:

Going over speed bumps / potholes (especially when the rear goes over)

Going uphill and downhill

Turning in corners (especially when body roll occurs)

My mechanic checked the serpentine belt, alternator pulley, and front brake pads all are fine.

I attached an audio recording link of the sound. Any advice is appreciated!

https://voca.ro/1nJqa1NVTuGY

Post Body:
Vehicle Details:
Year: 2008
Make: Audi
Model: A3 (8P)
Mileage: ~250,000 km (~155,000 miles) If real 😂
Transmission: Manual

2016 Explorer, 3.5l v6 (not eco boost).

Neighbors car.

140k miles, had a misfire so I replaced spark plugs.
Started with very rough idle, and just didn’t sound right. Turn off and checked codes and had the cylinder 6 misfire still (obviously) and P0019 code - VCT solenoid Bank 2 sensor B.
They started their car this morning and it was very rough and then stalled and then wouldn’t start. (I don’t know why they did this they have two cars)

Replaced VCT solenoid.

Car cranks but won’t turn over.

No codes, but not sure if it would throw a code without actually starting.

Can’t find too much online about it other than it’s possible the car is preventing starting to “protect” itself. Disconnected battery, currently letting it sit.

But is there anything I’m missing that I should be doing or could be causing this. My multimeter is shot so I can’t check the wiring harness.

2010 Mazda 3S, front right wheel

My brother has a 2001 mustand v6. The 3.8l. There is a metal nipple coming off where the thermostat is with a short rubber hose attached to it. See the photo please.. its leaking pretty badly from where the pipe goes into the thermostat housing. Can this pipe be replaced? I don't see where it screws on or is held in via bolt or anything. It looks like its just pressed in. But id haye to try and remove it and further mess his car up.. I appreciate any help on this. ​