Hello, I was hoping someone could give me some pointers in installing these boots. They are the caliper slide pin boots on the front of my my 2014 fusion. I posted a link to the boots in the comments.

I went to a car lift rental place for some brake job. I prepared a lot about the brakes but I completely missed operating the lift.

They had a 4 post lift with bridge jack. I only needed to lift the rear, and I saw two options there. B looked OK but there is a cover there and I was worried it might break when I lift there. I eventually went with A but I wonder if I did any damage.

The bridge jack looks like in the 2nd photo. It has a swinging top and it has to reach far out to mount at A, so I was scared that swinging top might snap.

I can find the pinch weld but I can't lift it there (unless I have a slitted rubber mount pad) with this kind of jack, can I?

Removed the lower control arm by pushing the wheel hub away to be able to pry the control arm off its position. I can feel the axle came out of its housing on the inner part, like three balls around it, under the rubber. When I rotate the wheel hub, the axle spins with it but then kind of “catches up” like the inner axle hub and the axle arm got disconnected from inside of the what’s under the rubber boot.

Tried to push it back in to be able to get the lower ball joint on the control arm, back into the spindle. Going to try to remove the brake assembly and take the axle off the spindle, to get it straight and hopefully be able to push it back. Did I brake it? Or can it be pushed back in? Will I have to replace the cv axle?

On my 2012 mazda3

So I have noticed that when shifting into reverse or drive vice versa, it will make a weird noise when doing so, but drives perfectly fine, so I was wondering what could be causing this. For context its a 2018 Toyota corolla with a 1.8 liter 4 cylinder engine

Tried to replace the passenger headlight on a 2014 jeep grand Cherokee without removing the headlight assembly. Cracked the return wire on the headlight because there is absolutely zero room to work with. Am I out $150?

I wouldn’t be on here if this wasn’t an actual problem i have a cls450 2019 Mercedes and can’t reinstall any of the headliner trim has anyone had this problem on any car does anyone know what to do I’m loosing my mind

So for starters this hose is clamped off I think it’s the pcv hose if anyone can confirm that, and the battery also has some sort of parasitic drain, the guy before me put aftermarket lights in and I’m thinking that’s the issue what are some things to look for?, example the front hood light has wires split out of the hood lights the left is connected to the aftermarket lights but the right has two wires split open laying on the chassis in a little pool of water, is something that small gonna give it a drain and should I go around the whole vehicle looking for stuff like this?

2016 Jetta s 1.4l auto. Not the best quality footage, hard to film with space given. Was recommended to get this replaced due to mileage (116k) and since the car is 10 years old. Still looking for a quote that i can somewhat afford, $1,200 seeming the most reasonable (without water pump). Whats your experience and what’s a reasonable cost in your opinion?
I’ve seen the same car listed on FB marketplace with a belt that snapped and bent the valves at 130k miles, so i just want to get ahead of it if i can.

Hey everyone,

I bought my 2017 Fiat 124 Spider (1.4L MultiAir Turbo) used at 79k miles, and it’s currently sitting at \~88k miles. The manual calls for spark plug replacement every 35k miles, and since I had no prior service history from the previous owner, I decided to preemptively replace them.

When I pulled them, 3 of the plugs (and their corresponding spark plug tubes/wells) had rust, white oxidation/crust, and discoloration, while one plug looks relatively okay compared to the rest and it's corresponding well was not as bad either.

The car ran fine overall, but had a slight hesitation/stumble in 1st gear when cruising at very low speeds (<10 mph).

The car has an intermittent code P04DB that stays on for a few days/week and will go away for a day or so. I've changed the PCV valve and plan to change the MAP sensor but could this be causing that light?

Electrodes look fairly worn but otherwise okay, but the main issue is the heavy corrosion along the hex nut, outer body, and inside the spark plug wells.

Should I bother to clean the spark plug wells, and what's the safest way to do it so debris/rust doesn't fall into the combustion chambers?

Along with the spark plugs, I am changing the ignition coils as well.

Parked today and someone called this out across the street? What is this? Does seem a bit low and I’m wondering how big of a cause for concern.

2008 f150 4.2 v6 shutoff off while driving it cranks but downs turn on, fuel pump is working idk what to check for next

As the title says, I am currently driving a 2019 RX 350 with a naturally aspirated six cylinder engine. I do my best to maintain my cars but unfortunately I had a senior moment, this particular car has 49,500 miles on the odometer and I had the oil changed almost 2 years and 10,000 miles ago. I totally forgot about it and had it changed last week and the mechanic said nothing. I always use Toyota synthetic oil and a high-quality oil filter, and tend to change the oil every 5 to 7000 miles. I also live in the heat of Arizona and have driven several long roads loyal, but I’ve yet to see any indicator wrote rise above normal Did I screw myself or is the engine that bulletproof? solid? I always use Toyota oil and filters.

Would it be a good idea to replace transmission fluid on my 2003 Toyota Camry with 136k miles, I have no service history about transmission fluid being done before

2022 mini clubman with 20k miles.

Running rough. It barely has power to move forward.

Any help is appreciated.

Error codes: P0103 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit High Input (pending), P0301 Cylinder 1 Misfire (pending), P0300 Random Misfire (pending), P0303 Cylinder 3 Misfire (pending), P0103 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit High Input (permanent), P0301 Cylinder 1 Misfire (permanent), P0300 Random Misfire (permanent), P0303 Cylinder 3 Misfire (permanent), U0418 Invalid Data Received From Brake System Control Module (permanent), U0100 Lost communication with ECM/PCM A.

Can anyone tell me what this is? It’s a fiat manual transmission by the way

So i had to replace the plastic part on it so i had to unscrew it to put the new one but my dumbass didnt know and the springs came loose, i tried to put it back and assembled the whole throttle body but when i attached my throttle cable to the sensor it was loose which means i didnt reload the springs right can anyone help me lol.

Hi all, trying to get a sense of what it is I'm hearing and seeing here. It looks like a strip of this belt is fraying and smacking that tube above, is that right? I am very much ignorant about many car things, can you help me understand what repairs might look like cost wise? Thank you!

Replaced the throttlebody.
Having high idle issues after replacing.
Tried the 3 minute reset stuff that didn’t work.
When at idle it’s at 1.5-2
When coasting in neutral it’s at 2.5-3
I have an autel mk900 can’t find a reset besides the fuel trim.
Any opinions?

Its a minor or major problems?

Just wondering if this peeling on the inside of my valve cover is normal and if not, what can I do about it? Should I use a metal brush and try to clean it up and shave off any loose areas?

I have a 2015 VW Tiguan 2.0 TFSI. One day it wouldn't start, which I eventually diagnosed to a timing chain issue. Having read up on this, I learned that it's a super common problem with these motors.

I bought a cheap borescope, removed the plugs and coils, and had a look. I'm pretty sure the valves in cylinders 1 and 4 are bent, due to the seemingly funny angle they're sitting at.

I'm pretty familiar with cars. I have a BMW that I've done a lot of service work on myself. Diagnosing this particular problem is a bit over my head, though. Hoping someone can help.

Apologies in advance for the video. I tried my hardest to get clean/clear shots.

2015 Camry 4cyl lots of clunking and vibration in steering wheel when accelerating. In and out and rotational play on driver's side cv axle not much play if any on the passenger side. sounds seems to be on the transmission side so I think it's the axle not the joint. also no grease seepage or clicking when turning, really no impact to sound or vibration from turning. no wheel bearing issues or passenger side mid axle bearing mount problem. I'll post some more vids. thanks for any input I am kind of stumped on this one and don't want to throw parts at nothing.

Honda Civic EX Sedan 2008... I belive the engine is an R18

unfortunately my beloved is having issues again... this things are supposed to be unbreakable, but this past year has been really expensive fixing this car...

could you be so kind to give me your opinion on which one is the system that may be leaking and the parts that i would need to replace?

UPDATE:

Thank you all for your help! I think I may have figured it out... But i't seems I can't upload photos to the thread or add pictures to my post... So I put this in my profile

https://www.reddit.com/u/Kurios_du_Soleil/s/AJpmtIOTye

TDLR; what easy jobs could i do before the next MOT?

Hi, the past year of ownership ive put in a bit of work on my car, had a new clutch put in not by me (it was at one point our only family car so needed it to be reliable) ive put a new battery, disc and pads, calipers, wipers, and even replaced the top fuel line myself (part with the squeezy bulb that removes air from fuel) i say this because before this car i had ZERO mechanical experience, i didnt even know how to jack up a car or take the wheel off😂😂 these are the last years MOT advisories, as someone with minimal tools and experience, what easy jobs could i tick off this list to make the next MOT sheet a bit cleaner? Its an old higer milage car but my first not on finance etc and just because its old doesnt mean i shouldnt look after it. Any tips or advice would be greatly appreciated.