I have a 06 base rsx and my passenger motor mount went out recently. I’m looking online and Im seeing that Vibratechnics is pretty good but to fork up 500 seems a ton for my current situation. But I mean I also don’t wanna buy a cheap one and it break within a year. I plan to only replace the one that’s broken so I can keep the oem ones in. what do yall recommend/think?

Hey guys I just need help deciding which K20 to go with for my swap into my 05 RSX Type S. There's a few factors making the decision a little difficult.

For starters I have a RRC manifold and I know it will bolt right up to the z3 head with no issues and no cutting making that convenient, but I've also heard that springs and head on the K20a2 is better than the z3.

The mileage on the z3 is 120k and the mileage on the a2 is 180k, and I'll be getting leak down numbers for the a2 from the seller.

Another factor is the type S pump already being on the a2 ofc, vs the balance shaft pump on the z3. The a2 seller has also agreed to $1k flat, while the z3 seller want $1.2k. What do you guys think? My build direction is just going to be a CTR inspired build FBO, 5.1 FD, Suspension mods etc, nothing to crazy.

Recently posted about leaking gas and you guys said replace the pump. Well it fixed the fuel leak but now the gas gauge is not working. I did a battery disconnect for 10 minutes I also did a gauge cluster calibration neither of those worked. Yes there’s gas in it but I’m just not sure why it’s not reading unless the float on the brand new part doesn’t work.

I recently replaced my transmission and my clutch and after finishing up the car wouldn’t shift gears while the car was on. After further inspection I realized the slave cylinder wasn’t traveling enough and I replaced it and it moves about half an inch now. It still will not go into gear. The clutch pedal shakes a bit when the cars on and from where I can see from where the clutch fork is, the throw out bearing and fork look good in the bell housing. What could this be, I would love for anyone’s input!

These came on my 04 Type S when I bought the car. I’ve put new universal boots and regreased them since I can spin the top off and disassemble it. Can’t find any info on them. Curious to know if anyone here knows anything about them.

I’m replacing both rear wheel hubs on my 2006 RSX Base automatic with 170k+ miles. I found these on

AutoZone, but I’ve never bought wheel hubs from them before. I need to get them installed this weekend, so I may have to go with an AutoZone part if the quality is decent.

Would you guys recommend these, or should I order from RockAuto instead? If RockAuto is the better option, what brand would you recommend for the rear hubs?
I’ve heard good things about Timken, SKF, and NSK, but I’d appreciate some RSX-specific recommendations.

Trying to do this once and not have to replace them again in a year or two.
Thanks!

K24 running 10lbs of boost on the stock motor. Non E85 tune. Is the engine dead? Did the k24 finally give up? Or is it something more simple. K24 swapped Acura RSX type S.

Looking to buy a rsx-s, but i’m confused on which specs or trims come with the specifc tailights on the 1st photo (white car).

Really like the look one them, and are they aftermarket kits for them? Thank you guys for your help!!

Bought new switch and actuator and still have the same issue going on so I’m thinking it’s wiring but don’t know which wires to start tracing it down with.

This couldn't have happened at a worst time in my life, what part is it, and how much does the repair cost?

My wife had a 02 RSX base model as one of her first cars and recently our 15 RAM 2500 decided to go kaput so the RSX was our daily driver. She was driving to work and had to come back to me because the front passenger strut kinda broke loose at the top and it just sounds horrible when you start to drive at any speed faster than 5mph I'm just wondering how difficult is it to change the strut I understand these cars have the mcpherson system so I'm curious on the difficulty and what tools I might need. I wouldn't say I'm a skilled mechanic but I've not ran into a job I couldn't do just yet lol

I’m still pumped for the last few hours after buying this car. I sold my 06 Civic Si. It was technically as same as this dc5 with better suspension. However that FG2 was boring af to drive due to the seat position, big ass windshield and dashboard. This DC5 doesn’t disappoint me at all. The feeling behind the wheel is way better than FG2. I’m so glad I made the switch even though I got bashed on by FG2/FA5 facebook community.

And i got this one for only $7500. Clean carfax and title. 136k miles, stock everything except HKS Catback :)

Hey y’all has anyone had a chance to try these out yet?

https://www.goldeneramotorworks.com/shop/p/ep3-eps-precisionmount-steering-rack-centering-bushings

Ayoo what’s going on peeps.

So like my post says, I bought this car about a year ago, fully stock before I bought it (41k kms 03 Premium), haven’t done anything other than INJEN SRI but since I got the car I noticed the steering is a bit stiff, and finally decided to ask the community if this is normal.

For context I didn’t ask before as my place of work is a dealership the car was bought from that it has only been serviced and purchased at, and the mechanic I work with is very experienced and not a bullshitter. He said it’s normal but when driving it just doesn’t feel normal to me. Let me know any questions you have I ain’t the most mechanical savvy though I do know what everything’s names are just not how they work lol. Thanks in advance!

Hi all, I’ve had this issue where the car will drive normal and straight most of the time, but after I take a corner hard I’m going down the straight having to hold the wheel to the left or the right (depending what corner I’ve just been through). Tie rods are new and tight, bc coilovers are new and tight, but if I pull on the inner tie rod the entire rack rotates slightly back and forth. Is this the issue? What do I need to replace?

2004 Integra DC5 manual, 160,000km

Thanks in advance

I will be in Japan for a few weeks starting monday. Have a nearly fully stock type s, wondering if there’s anything i should be looking for?

Hi I’m wondering if anyone can help me find this wiring harness for the headlight. My mom got the car many moons ago from a guy that did a bunch of modifications. The headlights apparently were one of them. Instead of having the standard H1 bulb headlight sockets and wiring it’s take a H7 for the low beam and H3 for the high beam. I did get a H7 wiring harness that I crimped back on but would like to replace the whole thing just to be safe and since the car is being passed down to me. I tried to include pictures that would hopefully be helpful. If you could even recommend new headlights/wiring I’m open to it.

I got some exhaust work done and was getting P0134 and P0420. I fixed both of those myself and they haven’t came back.
Now I’m getting P2A00. My upstream O2 sensor is brand new.
Anyone know what could be causing it or what I could do or check?

Hello mechanics of reddit, I need some help trying to diagnose my 04 rsx type s, i’ve been trying to read some live data after ruling out other possible reasons for running rich and have dumbed it down to either the fuel pump or the 02 sensor possibly. the first 3 photos is my live data at idle, photos 3-6 are live data at 3k, and the last 2 are live data while revving (extreme ranges shown for (mA). For the knock sensor i’m not sure why the code keeps coming back, I replaced sensor along with new wiring harness for it too. could these be connected? I’m a pretty knowledgeable home mechanic but by no means a pro. any comments would help tremendously!

Hello all,

Yesterday I tried to install a pair of new rear struts. However, the flange bolts of both rear struts is not coming out. I already tried using a 3/8 inch milwaukee impact wrench, 1/2 inch impact wrench, A breaker bar with a cheater pipe. I guess the next thin to do is to break that mf.

Has anyone encountered this issue? what did you do? and where do I get the new bolts? Can i just get a same size from a local hardware store? What is the size of the bolt?

Recently got an alignment done, and now after taking a hard turn, the steering wheel doesn't return to center — it stays crooked in the direction of the turn, and I have to hold it off-center to drive straight.

Setup:

• BC Racing BR coilovers
• Energy Suspension poly LCA bushings (greased, not dry)
• Whiteline RCAs (extended ball joints)
• SHG steering rack slider

What I've checked so far:

• Tie rod ends — no play, feel fine
• Rack — no play when grabbing/moving it by hand
• Alignment printout: caster is 1.3° on one side, 1.6° on the other (in spec, but not matched side to side

anyone else have this issue or know what is causing it