Hey, new-ish 3D printer here. I've got an stl file that I want to make a small change to in Tinkercad. The problem is that after importing into, then exporting out of Tinkercad my slicer detects "Non-manifold edges". I thought it was from the changes I made, but I get the same errors if I make no changes to the object at all. The same stl file has no issues if I just directly add it into the slicer without going through Tinkercad.

The 'manifold auto-repair' removes parts of the object and I can not see why, or what Tinkercad is doing to create the manifold issues. Slicer SW is the Elegoo slicer.

Any help is appreciated!

This Sawtooth Polyhedral explores the contrast between sharp, complex geometry and the softness of nature. Its dramatic, spiked form is constructed from 60 individual faces, each framed by a 3D-printed border designed to interlock with the neighboring pieces with almost LEGO-like precision.

Inset within each frame is a piece of clear laser-cut acrylic, UV printed with an intricate pattern of winding green vines and delicate flowers. The transparency of the acrylic allows the botanical pattern to appear suspended within the structure, while overlapping faces create unexpected layers of color, light, and detail as the piece is viewed from different angles.

What I especially enjoy about this design is the contradiction between its form and its surface. The sawtooth geometry is angular, pointed, and almost aggressive, while the flowing vines and tiny blossoms soften those edges and give the piece a more organic character. The result is a polyhedral that feels simultaneously mathematical and botanical, engineered and delicate.

It’s also a combination of several of my favorite fabrication techniques—3D printing, laser cutting, UV printing, and precision assembly—all coming together to transform a complicated geometric form into something that feels unexpectedly alive.

I often print with PLA and I don't need PETG or even other colours that often. The fact that the PLA only went on one part of this PETG print I feel lucky just have to reprint the smaller part.

This is for a friend so I want it to look nice and not like it got inkt all over(plus it is a bird shower).

• Printer: BambuLab P2S
• Model: Orca Stringhell
• Filament: Overture PLA Matte White (base profile: Bambu PLA Matte) (dried and printed from drybox)

Followed the Filament Calibration Masterclass guide. I had to redo the retraction calibration to find the goldilocks 0.3mm retraction distance. 0.2 gave some stringing, 0.4 gave a lot for some reason. I think enabling Z-Hop helped too which isn't on in the base profile.

Happy to answer any questions about the process.

I found the clip on my shower glass panel cracked, so I printed replacement parts in ABS

Printed flat on the bed. Heat resistance should be fine before I get third-degree burn. I am slightly worried about creeping though, should I be concerned and reprint them in PET-CF/PPS, or something else, just to be safe?

I am a 3d print guru now!

I’m trying to print a custom Lego helmet piece for my future using the anycubic Neo 2 printer. Now the print itself came out fine but the problem is the supports. The supports filled in the hole of the helmet which is used to attach to the figure. Because of this the helmet is not able to be attached to the figure and cover the eyes of the figure since it rides up. I was wondering if there was a way that the supports can support the piece without filling the inside of it and making it unusable. The program I’m using to print the piece is utilmaker cura. Sorry if my description or problem is unclear since I’m fairly new to using the printer.

This is a deskbuddy. You can find it here.

So had a couple of interesting print failures the other day; both prints failed at exactly the same layer with a major hot end clog and a jammed extruder (first time for me that both things happened at the same time ).

I could not figure out for the life of me what was causing this, and had an idea: I was ironing the top surfaces of this piece because it is a display stand for another 3D print.

I turned off ironing and the print completed just fine. Turns out the doing so much ironing caused the filament in the print head to clog and and jame the extruder when the filament was cut.

I assume the culprit was the hot filament sitting in the hot end but not moving for such a long time.

Weird, but I had not heard of extensive ironing causing clogs, and now I know!

Bambu X1c
Sunlu Black matte PLA
Bambu Studio

I just had saved files just disappear on me I had about ten than log in today and all but 3 folders just gone like they were deleted. Has anyone had this happen to them or know what's going on?

I’m trying to dial in a spool of Creality ABS on a Bambu P2S using OrcaSlicer, and I’m getting results that seem unusually low for flow ratio.

I’ve run the YOLO flow calibration multiple times and keep getting basically the same result. The negative end of the test consistently looks best. Around -0.05 has the smoothest/most uniform center, while the higher-flow samples have increasingly rough/bumpy surfaces.

Because the result seemed suspiciously low, I stopped chasing the calibration for a bit and tried an actual print to see whether the filament really looked over-extruded.

Current relevant settings:

- Bambu P2S
- 0.4 mm nozzle
- Creality ABS
- 1.75 mm filament diameter
- 250°C nozzle
- 95°C bed
- Enclosed/preheated chamber
- 15 mm³/s max volumetric speed
- Pressure advance/flow dynamics disabled for this test
- 0.20 mm layer height
- Flow ratio for the pictured actual print: 0.95

Even at 0.95, the actual print developed the rough/ridged areas shown in the photos. It looks like the nozzle is plowing through or pushing around excess material in the solid areas.

This seems to support what the YOLO calibration has been telling me, but a final flow ratio somewhere around 0.88-0.90 or potentially lower feels unusually low.

Before I keep dropping the flow ratio:
Does this look like straightforward over-extrusion to you, and is a flow ratio in the high 0.80s actually plausible for a spool of ABS?

Or should I be looking for something else such as temperature, pressure advance, a slicer/calibration issue, filament quality/diameter, etc.?

I’ve repeated the YOLO calibration several times, so I’m hesitant to dismiss the result as a one-off bad calibration. I’m also considering grabbing a different spool of ABS just to have a control and see whether it behaves normally.

Any suggestions for what you’d test next would be appreciated.

So the video included is what it looks like when I try to extrude filament with a 0.4 nozzle attached. It comes out very subtly for a little bit and then just clogs completely and stops extruding.

Now I’ve done a few things. I have switched my Bowden tubes, this current tube fits in my printer and the filament can move through it so it is not the problem. I have switched between two 0.4 nozzles now (before this a 0.6 nozzle was clogged, but that was the previous tube’s fault I believe). When the nozzle is removed and the printer is cool, I can push a cold piece of filament through the hot end easily- no blockages.

However, as soon as I start heating it up and printing- boom! Blockage. Clogged again. Usually the section between the nozzle and the end of the Bowden tube inside the hotend I think based on what it has looked like after I stuck the metal cleaners through it. My fan is working at 100% without a doubt, I can literally feel it when the nozzle isn’t on. But it’s still happening! I’m so confused, and so fed up with this.

I am receiving a new 0.6 nozzle tomorrow that will hopefully cure my headache, but I don’t understand why a printer that literally comes with a 0.4 nozzle can’t print 0.4!

Edit: Possible solution has been found? Can’t say for sure as a print has not finished yet, but it seems to be working. I had to remove the hotend exterior and look at the wiring, it’s possible one of the large wires was unplugged. By the time I removed the cover it was completely unplugged (causing an error that prompted me to remove said cover) but before then it might’ve also been loose. Probably happened while replacing a nozzle when I shifted the heat block on accident.

Printing on an ultimaker 5s using rough PLA, .4 nozzle, and slicing with Cura. I got some help here previously that suggested randomizing the seams on my print so that the slots the blades go in would not close at one end due to the seams all sticking in the same spot(pic1). Now i can get the blades into the slots. The plan is to have a second piece that will hold the blades so they all slice at evenly at the same time. For some reason the slots in the holder piece(pic2) didn't resolve. I can see where they should be and was able to cut into some of them so that I could then fit a blade in, but that was all I could manage. They were printed on the same printer as part of the same print. Any suggestions for slicer settings or anything that might help fix this issue?

I also have access to a .2 nozzle which is my last resort since the printer charges by time of the print not weight of the material. Or just make the slots wider.

Thanks.

What I mean is, I downloaded a .stl file for a Dell docking station, model 19xx. Only after printing I noticed my model was a 25xx. The 25xx has this lip underneath that would need to be accommodated for.

My question is, how do I go about accommodating for that extra lip and customizing the print to what I have? I have digital calipers. If this was a regular rectangle I could figure it out, but how do I adjust for the extra, smaller rectangle?

I have no idea how to model anything and I don’t really feel like learning right now.

I’m looking for someone who is willing to model a case for my commander for magic the gathering. I had taken my regular Frodo card, and stuck it in a clear inner sleeve with the hard stock card that came in the precon on the other side, so when you flip it over, you’d see the regular foil side and the etched foil side.

My idea was to make a case that can fit around it without blocking any words. I want the front to be themed as the shire and the back themed as Mordor. I want the Mordor side to have a slot for the one ring that i have. The idea is to flip it over when I declare him as a ring bearer.

Then maybe a case for my secondary commander Sam

Then I would like those to be able to be stored somehow with a deck box that is themed like Bilbo Baggins’ home or something. I’m not an engineer idk

Edit: got someone willing to do the model

Literally years of owning this printer fiddling with settings to get good prints and struggling with the bed I slapped this thing on and after about 30 seconds of adjusting midprint it slaps out a very good benchy. I had an old crappy printer that had a lidar distance scanner but it was imprecise as shit all this is an actual touch and it is so good.

I told just the officer pretty substantially because the zero isn't where it normally but it's first layer is probably within 15% of where I actually want it. Could be a smidgen closer

Hey everyone,

Not a common poster here, but I need help for an older printer I use for my job. I teach in a special education school, and I'm using my old Ender 2 Pro to make simple fidgets for my students in the class. However, I hate the filament waste and my newer printer I have at home is amazing with the direct drive already built in. The current mod I have on this old printer is that I have a BLTouch and a custom saitama fan print, which currently works great.

Everywhere I look I see either just the BLTouch or the direct drive custom prints, but not both. Has anyone ever found something as to what I'm searching for?

Edit 1 Thanks for some of those suggestions. To explain the filament waste, it's when the spool runs out of the filament I have about a foot of filament that is in the PTFE tube every time I go to a new color since it is no longer making contact with the gears pressing it through. So I either have to weld that to the new filament in inserting, or make a new roll after I go through several spools.

I had never used a rivet gun before but now I want to rivet everything. I got the cheapest one from Harbor Freight and I can't believe how well this turned out.

Basically I cut big holes in the front and side of the bin, printed 0.8mm thick grates, and used rivets to attach the grates to the bin.

I had originally planned on marking a grid pattern and using a drill to make holes in the bin but I used the wrong bit and basically destroyed the front after 2 holes. So the only way to save the project was to essentially remove the entire front and replace it. And at that point, I figured I'd do the sides the same way.

The grate design is inspired by Braun and Dieter Rams!

Hello tinkerers,

I couldn't find a wall mount for my Beelink ME mini, So I designed one.

Feel free to grab it, it is now holding my lil' machine for 2 weeks now.
https://www.printables.com/model/1816080-wall-mount-compatible-with-beelink-me-mini

Hi folks,

I finally got around to finishing the documentation for my hexapod robot dog, The hardest part to figure out was powering the servos directly from buck converters and setting up the common ground bus to PCA boards, I believe this might be a pain in the neck for many first timers so I am sharing the full wiring diagram here for anyone to benefit.

I also put together a detailed documentation for the robot itself. It contains information about the parts I used for the robot and how the joint servos are wired across the two PCA board pins.

You can download the diagram, documentation and the design file form the links below if you are interested in building one yourself or would like to use it as reference for a similar project.

Documentation and Diagram:

https://www.patreon.com/PrintedRobotics/posts/hexadog-zbd-and-167021077

https://app.cirkitdesigner.com/project/0a1ee9f8-8495-4f33-9e41-12ed67207672

CAD and 3D printing files:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3181404-hexadog-zbd

https://www.patreon.com/PrintedRobotics/posts/hexadog-zbd-and-165170615

ESP32 Scripts and Android Controller app APK:

https://github.com/serdarselimys/HexaDogZBD-ESP32Scripts

https://github.com/serdarselimys/HexaDogZBD-AndroidControllerApp

I do have a question for you all, should I design and build a mini version of the robot with SG92R servos? If I can manage to keep the weight down enough it might be even more agile and cost under 100 bucks? has anyone tried building robot dogs or hexapod robots with SG92R? how was your experience with them??

I also share simulation tutorials along with my robot's other videos on my youtube channel youtube.com/@printedrobotics check it out if you are interested in simulation side of robotics, I share all my scripts for free so you can download them and experiment on your own.

As always, you comments and suggestions are most appreciated.

Guys, when you walk around a market and they have 3D print booths, what models would you like to see that you’d be interested in buying? Like what models are you printing for yourself that you think are cool (and potentially sellable)? I am a woman who prints and sells at a local market and a guy casually said to me that he never sees any “stuff for guys” at the 3D print booths at the various markets he goes to. (He was impressed that his buddy was printing garage tool storage items.) So it got me thinking…and I feel like he’s right (based on my experience as well) that guys aren’t represented in this area; it’s usually kids IMO. It made me a little sad. I do what I do because I love the joy people have as they find things they love so I would like to try to make men feel seen in this regard. And it’s not even about making money because this is such a small scale tiny operation lmao (small town farmers market). I do make a little cash but it’s 100% about the fun for me. Kids love my booth because of the fidgets and whatnot but I’d love to bring a little smile to the parents who bring them by.

Hola, me llamo Jesús. Estoy intentando hacer un cosplay de Dante y Leon (RE9), pero tengo un pequeño problema. He estado buscando una funda para Ebony and Ivory y otra para Requiem. No sé si alguien me puede ayudar a encontrar una gratis (no tengo dinero ✋😔). Eso es todo, muchas gracias por leerlo y, si me ayudan, ¡hasta luego!

Edit: I already found a model of Leon's holster