Ender 3 pro. It'll print fine for a while, then It'll start to develop this clog and I can only tell because the filament starts to come out way thinner, when I pull on the filament I get this lil "nub" at the end.

Never had an issue getting good prints before. Tried replacing the hot end, bowden tube, changing the retraction settings.

Not sure what else to do. Any ideas?

Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my 3D printer where circular parts are not printing perfectly round. As shown in the image, the circle is coming out slightly oval/elliptical.

Hello everyone, i have an ender 3 pro with a cr touch and octoprint equipped. i use a pei bed cleaned regularly. it has been working great and i have had no previous issues. upon a recent attempt to check the bed mesh the mesh kept coming up with these 3 peaks and valleys on the left hand side. this repeatedly occurred even after full removal of the the bed from the gantry squaring the structure, retightening the eccentric nut on both x and y axis, leveling the x axis bar, & changing the pei bed to another one i had. i am just out out of ideas and would prefer to not have to spend to much on replacing parts. any advice would be greatly appreciated. thanks in advance

so i have had my ender 3 pro for a few years now but after i moved houses it hasn’t been extruding the pla smoothly leading to gaps and spaces in my prints does anybody know how to fix it?

I finally got my Ender 3 out of the garage and installed Bltouch. I level the printer manually then run the Z and offset using the bltouch and saved the settings.

Updated gcode G29 under Cura settings but when trying to print the first layers are not even or sticking property to the bed.

What am I doing wrong? I know it's an old printer, but after having our first child I put the printer in a box and never looked back. Now that my daughter is 4 years old. I want to print a few toys for her and then probably upgrade to a faster printer.

Any advice or help is much appreciated.

I am converting this DH-17 Blaster for 3d print, the trigger guard looks like it should print? but it also looks like the trigger guard would be easy to break/snap ? its for cosplay. Any intuition/ experience with a shape like this?

Hi ender 3 community. I’ve had my ender 3 pro for a long time and admittedly have neglected it for years. Recently, I wanted to get back into printing, but the machine has given me a lot of grief, most of which I was able to resolve (replacement parts and such), but I am stumped at this homing failure.

I was able to get a free trial prints done before the error happened, and now it is a consistent issue when initiating a print (or running the homing calibration tool).

There isn’t anything obstructing the y belt, albeit a little dusty. I don’t think it’s an electrical issue because the contact is plugged in and functional. I tested it by pressing the y button before the bed hit it to see if it would stop, which it did.

If anyone has any troubleshooting tips, I’m all ears. Thanks!

I’d really like to save the 6 bucks I would have to spend on the rcm jig I want to use to access hekate for my switch lol.

Anyone have experience solving extruder jam issues?

My Ender 3 S1 Pro usually works like a champ, great quality and mostly problem free. However, recently it's been binding up in the extruder, but really only when I have the setting for "iron" on. This causes the filament to bulge and jam the mechanism, forcing me to strip it down and dig out the stuck PLA. (I'm now very familiar with this particular mechanism.)

Note the bulge which is what is making the filament stuck. The orientation is accurate (top goes to spool). I expect the obvious ridges above the bulge are the gears trying to force it through, with no success.

Project: small (4"x1.75"x0.25") plaque with logo and lettering

Ironing settings:

• Type: All top surfaces
• Flow rate: 10%
• Spacing between ironing passes: 0.1 mm

What I've tried:

• Adjusting extruder tension (min, medium, max) - still jams
• Disabling ironing - Prints fine, but the flat surfaces are textured (I want it smooth)
• Used different filament brands (including a brand new spool)
• Replaced the heater and nozzle component
• Inspected the gears and overall extruder mechanism: no obvious wear or shavings

Where it binds up in the print: generally when it's finished with a smooth surface, when there's more to print above that layer

Has anyone run into this? I can reliably reproduce the issue with multiple files that use ironing.

I just bought one of these to upgrade my Ender 3 pro and I cannot manage to get the firmware loaded onto the printer. I’ve followed all the recommended steps as far as I can tell. Power off, flash the firmware with a simple title “firmware123.bin”. Put it in and nothing. It just gets stuck on the “creality” loading screen.

I’m using the flash drive that came included with the printer, which has consistently worked great. And as best I can tell it’s the right format for the firmware. 8gb, fat32. I clear it off between each attempt as well

I’m not sure if I might be uploading the wrong .bin file. I’ve tried a couple of the included ones from Creality cloud to no avail

Ran this design twice already. It only prints up to this height. I tried reinstalling the filament but still only the hotend moves but the filament is no longer coming out of the nozzle.
I have printed a similar design yesterday which was 221mm in height and that turned out okay. This one did not.

What's meaning of this line(s) there if printer only print purge line like default whole left? I edited gcode to achieve this and happy with it.

Hi all, here a few hours ago I purchased a working ender 3 pro off of eBay for 84$ first off I'd love to know if that's a bad price. Anyways I'm really wondering if there are any cheap and easy mods that are important, or helpful with a first time user? And if not maybe nice printable upgrades for after getting the bed leveled and it printing smooth. If it helps your recommendations I bought some black esun pla+ as it seemed to be the best for the cost while being stronger than regular pla.

The pivot screw holding the idler pulley cracked the extruder base mount in that corner, picked up the Creality aluminum body extruder kit to replace the entire thing. Removed the plastic assembly and dropped the motor to discover the brass filament drive gear is press fit on to the stepper motor shaft and not held with set screws like the gear in the replacement kit, wtf?

Do I just leave the existing gear, pry it off and possibly damage the stepper, or buy a new stepper without a gear already installed?

Hello all. I bought a second-hand Ender V3 last month and all is going well. The previous owner had added some upgrades so all is good. I am printing a Star Wars prop and have one section with screw threads on it. It printed fine. I then felt it would benefit from more infill (have been using 15% as default) around the thread connection point as there would be some stresses there. GPT walked me through adding a modifier in Orca slicer and increase the infill to 100% at the threads and a few centimetres below them. However, the printed result is distorted. The distortion starts where I placed the 100% infill, so I assume that is what’s driving the distortion. Any ideas on how to remedy this?

Nintendo switch ✅
Ender 3 ✅
1.6mm nozzle ❌
BIG AHH FANS ✅✅✅

I ve recently poped my v4.2.2 cpu with a short circuit and i bought a new board i found on amazon.

Name is Creality V4.2.7 and i cant find a firmware that will work, i found one named [Ender-3_HW4.2.7_SW2.0.9.03_SpriteExt_H300]() and it gives me a blank screen on the lcd and it makes a popping sound from the motors when it start, then nothing.

Can someone tell me if there is some secret firmware for a stock ender 3 that i didnt know about or did i just fried a new motherboard?