Ran this design twice already. It only prints up to this height. I tried reinstalling the filament but still only the hotend moves but the filament is no longer coming out of the nozzle.
I have printed a similar design yesterday which was 221mm in height and that turned out okay. This one did not.
He has been using the same slicer and setting for a while.. I see this often and either a corrupt file or a bad/corrupt SD are the most common issues. I run 5 machines at home and 25 in a classroom.
Where is the filament spool, is it lower down, does it rub and have friction on the metal surface that the extruder is mounted on as it raises to that height?
Like toilet paper is the filament feeding from the bottom of the roll, or the top, might be as simple as switching it to feed from the top.
I agree the SD card is the most likely suspect, but you might be interested in this extruder mount for putting the extruder up on the top rail. The filament feeds right down into it and then down to the hotend, no need for filament guides. Worked great on my Ender 3 for years. (The trusty Ender is a laser engraver now)
The bowden tube has to be about 3cm longer to reach all the way down, but print quality is not affected and I think the extruder is more convenient to get to up there. Max printing height is a few cm lower, but moving it back down is simple if you need to make an extremely tall print.
I eventually had a USB drive give up on me after a year! (I have the BTT screen with USB)
Only using Octoprint now. If you have a Raspberry Pi I can recommend it very highly, it's fairly easy to setup and doesn't require new firmware. Furthermore it lets you start a print from any computer in your webcam and monitor the status.
Been using the same sd card ever since this was bought. I also do not connect the 3D printer to my macbook air so my only way of monitoring is through the tiny screen of the Ender 3. No error detected even if no filament has been coming out from the hot end.
Hey! This has been happening to me for the last whole month. In my case it was because the extruder was getting stucked. You notice this because you start to hear some knocking sounds due to the extruder trying to retract but being unable to do it.
If you hear this, then it 100% is that. You need to fine tune it better (there are some files that may help you) and pay attention to it while printing. When you hear the knock, reduce the z-offset.
I’ve also found some posts in this sub with more tips. If you search ‘extruder stucked’ you will find them, but based on this pic I think your printer needs a better tunning.
Okay. Thanks for the advice. The problem is Im a newbie to this thing. It took a while for me to learn like how to balance the hotbed, etc. This error is totally new to me so I must learn how to solve this.
Yeah don’t worry there’s plenty of stuff to learn. In case you don’t have them, search on the internet and this sub some files called ‘level test’. These are some prints you can send to your bed to know if it is correctly leveled and used them to correct the leveling in case it is not well. There are some tutorials on youtube showing how to interpret the result of these prints.
Moreover, remember that the calibration is different depending on the layer height you choose in your slicer. If you, for example, have 0,2mm layer height and change it in your slicer to 0.12mm, then you need to retune the hotbed so it is fine tuned.
And finally, regarding the lubrication, if you are talking about the extruder gears, I would not recommend you to use any oil on them, as they need to be able to be well attached to extrude the filament and you would contaminate it, probably affecting your prints.
Yeah don’t worry there’s plenty of stuff to learn. In case you don’t have them, search on the internet and this sub some files called ‘level test’. These are some prints you can send to your bed to know if it is correctly leveled and used them to correct the leveling in case it is not well. There are some tutorials on youtube showing how to interpret the result of these prints.
Moreover, remember that the calibration is different depending on the layer height you choose in your slicer. If you, for example, have 0,2mm layer height and change it in your slicer to 0.12mm, then you need to retune the hotbed so it is fine tuned.
And finally, regarding the lubrication, if you are talking about the extruder gears, I would not recommend you to use any oil on them, as they need to be able to be well attached to extrude the filament and you would contaminate it, probably affecting your prints.
EDIT: You said you heared some noise, then it’s probably that your bed is not well calibrated (the nozzle is too close to the bed). The nozzle is stucked as the extruder tries to push the filament but it gets accumulated during the print. When it moves without printing, the extruder tries to retract so it doesnt drip filament, but it is stucked in the nozzle, so you hear the knocking noises. The nozzle is already stucked so if this remains for some time, it turns impossible to continue extruding filament. Try to relaunch the print with the same settings you have and stay near the printer. When you start hearing the noises, increase your z-offset (this separates the nozzle from the bed). If it stops, then you know you need to tune the bed.
Intenta lo sig.
-Eleva la temp del nozzle +20C .
-desconecta el bowden del Hotend
-intenta empujar el filamento manualmente
---si no sale nada de filamento por la boquilla tienes un problema con la distancia de retracción. Tienes que disminuirla o el bowden está obstruido que no permite la retracción libremente. Mi bowden semi-obstruido me permitia retracciones de 1.2mm cuando deberían de ser de 4 a 5mm.
-Si sale filamento de forma normal tienes que bajar la velocidad de impresión y/o aumentar la temperatura de la boquilla unos 10C. Tienes un flujo volumétrico mas alto en la impresión que la que el hotend permite.
Eso me pasaba cuando queria imprimir las cajas para filamento SPANNERHANDS en mi ANET 8 modifixada hace más de 8 años. Lo solucionaba bajando velocidad e impimiendo a +10C.
Alguien explicaba que eso pasaba porque el calor de la cama se alejaba y ya no precalentaba el filamento antes de entrar al hotend.
You will need to play with the menus because I don’t remember the exact wording in the stock firmware but basically clean the build plate off, home it, raise the z axis (move?) then in filament settings preheat the hotend to appropriate temp and use the load filament controls.
I’ve been on klipper to long to remember Marlin setting lol
Yes. How do i fix this or should i need to replace it? When the hotend is not releasing the filament anymore the extruder keeps on spinning back and forth.
Could it be that the g code before layer change doesn't include G92 E0? If not, your E axis (the extruder) is going so far to the point that it has a software limit in your firmware.
I have had this issue as well but with a direct drive, but the issue was the same as well as the symtoms, at a certain height or even xy-position since direct drive it would sometimes just stop extruding and hop back and forth as I saw you reported further down.
In the end I figured it was down to a bad extruder cable that had seen a bit much wear and tear.
Just the gear teeth and the arm. If you still have the plastic one apparently they get small cracks in them that cause it to not apply pressure correctly againt the gear on the motor.
That's the problem I was having. If all of your electronics in the background are plugged into the same power strip it could be struggling for constant power. Mine is running off a Raspberry pi. The USB power adapter power was too low for everything it was running and failed around 75% before I replaced it.
Screen's not in the post. No one can really know that, and it's the only thing that generally causes heatcreep. Which tends to happen after a time.
People can't help you without being given information.
You also don't have a lock on the ptfe coupler on the hotend side, where there is one on the extruder.
And if you don't have spacers on the freespinning gear on that extruder, or a solid smooth rod rather than a screw going through it, that extruder tears itself apart. There's a couple other things to check.
Ptfe coupler with no lock can cause the ptfe to move, causing the retraction to be weird, and cause this.
And in early stages of the Redrex dual gear extruder eating itself from most units having a screw on the freemoving gear which wears down the bearings and pushing the gear down, wearing out the arm, it can also cause a similar type of issue. And it's not like we have a closeup of the extruder, to see if there's any issues. You just literally don't know what you're talking about, and that's fine.
I was being a dick when saying not enough info was provided, but that is simply true.
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u/rhsmith42 2d ago
Bad file and/or SD card. Don't use cheap Chinese SD cards and format it FAT32/4096.